Table of contents for August 2020 in Delicious UK

PORTRAIT: PAUL MITCHELL. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND Don’t we all love high summer? But there’s a poignancy in 2020 as we dream of beaches far away and food cooked by someone else, eaten in dappled shade with the sound of waves sucking at the sand, a chilled glass of wine within reach. I’m getting carried away… Many of you are weighing up whether or not to risk booking (or re-booking) a holiday abroad, the decision complicated by a desire to support hard-hit hospitality businesses in the UK. As I write, restaurants are reopening, but the road ahead is far from easy. I want to say a huge thank you to those of you who’ve instinctively understood the challenges we’ve been facing in producing your favourite magazine. Your support, as we’ve worked…

SIMPLY Much loved cookbook author Sabrina Ghayour dishes up recipes for flavourful, satisfying food with the minimum of fuss, drawing on her Persian heritage and global influences. Turmeric chicken kebabs; spiced carrot and tamarind soup; fishcakes with preserved lemon mayo... Expect crave-worthy recipes to slot into your repertoire, with helpful notes on what goes with what. Mitchell Beazley £26 RISING HOPE: RECIPES & STORIES FROM LUMINARY BAKERY PHOTOGRAPHS: LAUREN MCLEAN, ANDREW MONTGOMERY Alice Williams describes how she founded this inspiring London bakery to provide opportunities for courageous women whose life experiences have left them at a disadvantage. Their empowering tales are interspersed with illustrated recipes – their own and the bakery’s best loved – including cinnamon swirls. Harper Collins £20…

Once upon a time, going out for lunch was all about menus, tables, waiters and niceties like crockery, cutlery and napkins. Not in 2020. The combination of restaurant closures during lockdown, glorious weather and our embracing of food pleasures from home baking to farm shops saw many of us rediscovering the joy of the picnic. What was once a rare treat or even just a memory from childhood took on new meaning – especially as we were all repeatedly reminded that it’s safer to gather outdoors than in. My husband and I regularly packed up treats in a backpack and disappeared for a few hours on a long walk to enjoy lunch ‘out’ – albeit on the ground – with pastry-covered goods, cold meats, salads and sarnies in Tupperware and…

Sharp relief If you’re avoiding flying and have managed to book a cottage staycation, there’s one thing every half-keen cook needs to take: sharp knives. Food legend Prue Leith has launched a set with Lakeland that comes in its own securely fastened wipe-clean, easy-to-pack roll. The three knives are well balanced with smart bamboo handles trimmed in Prue’s signature red. £49.99 for the set; lakeland.co.uk WHAT I’M DRINKING: TWO GREAT BUYS PACKS A PUNCH I’m a fan of a (strong) negroni cocktail but I don’t always have the components – gin, sweet vermouth and Campari – to hand. So bring on this fine ready-made 500ml bottle. Chill, serve on ice, add orange peel and you’re good. £24, blacklinesdrinks.com; to save 10% on your first order use the code DELICIOUS10 at…

1 ALL BRASSICAS Broccoli, cabbages (all colours and shapes), cauliflower and brussels sprouts are all anti-inflammatory. Eat at least one serving as part of at least one meal of your day, every day. 2 LEEKS, ONIONS AND SPRING ONIONS These share with brassicas a high soluble-fibre content, plus some insoluble fibre (roughage) and a lot of sulphur, which is great for the liver as well as the gut. Red onions are also rich in highly anti-inflammatory molecules called anthocyanidins. Leeks are a great source of insoluble fibre, including a type called inulin, which is intensely prebiotic (meaning it feeds your beneficial gut bacteria). Leeks provide good amounts of a flavonol called quercetin, too, that also acts as a prebiotic. Could be time to make a big vat of leek soup…

“These recipes aren’t about fad eating – they simply bring you into my kitchen so I can share my favourite everyday recipes with you… It just happens that they’re good for you too. I was brought up in a family where Mum cooked amazingly good food every day from scratch, never cutting corners or taking shortcuts. Our family dining table was where my love of food began. I still believe in the nutritional value of cooking from scratch, and when people ask how I eat so well and stay the same size, my answer is always the same: I just eat healthy food. I’m not a doctor or health specialist, but what I do know is that the food I cook uses a minimum of oil and ghee; that the…

FLAVOURS OF THE MED Taste the Difference Viognier 2019, Languedoc, France 13% (£8, Sainsbury’s) Made right near the Med, a perfumed white with gorgeous lush apricot fruit, finishing dry. Sip with spiced or herby grilled chicken. TRAD TASTE OF SPAIN Marks & Spencer Classics No. 21 Lomas del Marqués Rioja Reserva 2014, Spain 14% (£9) From M&S’s new Classics range, a Rioja with flavours of strawberry, red cherry and sweet spicy oak. Perfect for grilled chops and steaks. PROVENCE IN A CAN Mirabeau Prêt-à-Porter Rosé, IGP Méditerranée, France 13% (£3.49, Waitrose; £3.50/25cl, Booths) Pack this ‘ready to go’ can for a picnic or hike – it has two small glasses’ worth of beautifully crisp southern French rosé, its flavour a mix of red cherries, pears and Galia melons, delicate and…

1 THE ISLES OF SCILLY for sunsets, walking among agapanthus flowers to white-sand beaches and turquoise waters – and sweet crab and lobster, caught here and sold in Island Fish, a tiny family shop, on the island of Bryher. The Crab Shack eatery at Hell Bay is a must too. 2 ITALY to Le Marche to visit friends for home-cooked food on a wooded hillside in the middle of nowhere, with plentiful chilled pecorino to drink. Restaurant-wise, it will be Dei Priori in the sleepy village of Monte San Martino for pasta Angelica (Mama Priori’s richly flavoured ragù – just enough to coat her glorious pasta). For a posh meal, Il Tiglio, up in the mountains at Montemonaco, if for no other reason than to have dessert painted on the…

“Is the soufflé on the brink of extinction? It’s certainly been on the endangered list since I started cooking, over 20 years ago. You’ll occasionally spot one, or if you’re lucky a small group of them (known as a troupeau de soufflés), living off the kindness of a few diners. This image, by food photographer Andrew Montgomery, shows a rare example of the species in its rustic habitat. Please pledge your support today and help save this beautiful beast” GILL MELLER VEGGIE RECIPE Sweetcorn, rosemary and smoked cheddar soufflé SERVES 3-4. HANDS-ON TIME 35-40 MIN, OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the soufflé base (steps 1–4) a few hours ahead but don’t stir in the egg yolks, then leave somewhere cool, covered with a piece of damp compostable baking…

A chilled summer soup with a citrussy kick RECIPES MATT MORAN PHOTOGRAPHS BEN DEARNLEY FOOD STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS Watermelon and gin slushies MAKES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, PLUS COOLING, CHILLING AND 2 HOURS FREEZING MAKE AHEAD You can freeze the watermelon (in a sealed bag) for longer, but defrost a bit before using or it won’t blend. The syrup will keep for a few weeks, chilled in a sealed container. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you don’t have a large blender, blend in 4 batches in a NutriBullet or similar. • 1kg mini watermelons or regular watermelon, obvious seeds picked out, skin removed and discarded, chopped into rough 3cm cubes • 200g fresh raspberries • 120-200ml gin (to your taste) • Fresh mint leaves and lime wedges to serve FOR…

1st century AD During the T’ang period in China, fermented milk was mixed with flour and camphor (don’t try it at home) and chilled to make a distant relative of the creamy treat. 13th century The first known record of making artificial snow and ice, using water and saltpetre (potassium nitrate), was published by Arab historian Ibn Abu Usaybi’ah. 1589 Italian scholar Giambattista della Porta described how to freeze diluted wine, to be sucked from the glass. 1671 A plate of ‘ice cream’ was served to the king’s table only at a celebration for the Knights of the Garter at Windsor Castle – the first record of ices being served in England. 1742 The third French edition of chef Vincent La Chapelle’s book The Modern Cook provided a recipe for…

“I succumbed to the allure of baking homemade sourdough while I had more time at home. I’ve been tinkering with sourdough pizza for a couple of months and this recipe is easy to make and doesn’t involve much more effort than a little forward planning. If you’re not yet a sourdough fanatic I’ve given an option for using regular yeast, but still with a long prove to get maximum flavour in the crust. Bellissimo!” FOOD EDITOR JEN BEDLOE Sourdough pizza with ’nduja pesto and olives MAKES 4 X 22-24CM REGULAR PIZZAS OR 2 X 32-34CM LARGE PIZZAS. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MINUTES, PLUS SEVERAL HOURS RESTING AND PROVING MAKE AHEAD See the tips on the previous page for how to prove your dough in the fridge, and how to freeze leftover…

Spirited away STAR EMAIL FROM: MAGGIE Thank you delicious. – once again you saved the day. My husband Ray and I should have been jetting off to Thailand to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary; instead we had a socially distanced barbecue with Thai grilled chicken [May/June, p130] as the star attraction. The flavours were amazing and so authentic we felt we were in Thailand. It was certainly a day to remember. WHAT YOU’VE BEEN MAKING @nims_noms made tahini, brown butter and sea salt blondies and thought they were the best blondies ever. “The crunch of the pecans, fudgy soft centre and the salty but sweet flavour combo is unbeatable. Drizzle with more tahini and a sprinkling of sea salt flakes to finish it off. Highly, highly recommend!” @thegreenwichkitchen had baked…

ANDREWLEOPHOTO.COM A locked-down youth centre in London’s inner city has reconnected with local youngsters, sharing the love through an on-the-hoof food service Concorde Youth Centre in Hackney is a haven for young people from the age of seven, so it was a blow when the pandemic forced it to close in March. Concerned for the wellbeing of the young people, manager Joyclen Brodie-Mends took action. Community food project Made Up Kitchen had begun a Covid-19 relief food service in Hackney, so the two organisations joined forces. “Connecting was great because the youth club is embedded in the community,” says project leader Kiran Chahal. Powered by word of mouth, by the end of June over 1,000 meals a week were being distributed to local households – and around 10 young people…

Dinner’s on Mary Our 20-year-old dining table has a few heat and watermarks, so a runner helps to hide blemishes. Official national treasure Mary Berry has a new range that’s both machine-washable and heat resistant (good news). Quilted cotton table runner, £18.95, hartsofstur.com Potted joy I’m loving Anthropologie’s Finley range of pots for indoors, all with the brand’s signature rustic-boho style. A fine way to show off summer herbs. From £8, anthropologie.com/en-gb…

OONI KODA PIZZA OVEN Tested by food editor Jen Bedloe I tested the sourdough pizza recipe on p90 in the Ooni Koda gas-fired pizza oven (£249 from uk.ooni.com and other retailers). The Koda is portable, quick to set up and quickly heats up to over 500°C so the pizza crust bakes to crisp, blistered perfection in about a minute (it’s meant to be a bit charred here and there – all part of the charm). If you’re making pizzas regularly, it’s well worth investing in. For a chance to win a £500 gift card to spend at uk.ooni. com, go to deliciousmagazine. co.uk/promotions. WIN a £500 pizza oven gift card…

FOOD WRITER AND POTATO SALAD ENTHUSIAST DEBORA ROBERTSON SALUTES AN UNSUNG HERO OF SUMMER Put out the bunting, fill the paddling pool, it’s that time of year again: potato salad time. In the past decade or so, salads have pulled focus. No longer a bit on the side, now they are exuberant concoctions of leaves, microleaves, juicy citrus, roasted vegetables, toasted nuts and seeds, shaved, dolloped and grated cheeses, torn herbs, extra-virgin, single-estate oils, special vinegars, the fermented, the pickled and the cured. Thank you dear Yotam Ottolenghi and all your foot soldiers in the recent salad wars for saving us from our half-a-cucumber-and-an-unripe-tomato selves. We salute you. But just for a moment, you can stand down. I am tired and I am hot and so far it has been…

If you’re suffering from IBS, gut experts recommend you eat yogurts that contain added probiotics, such as Activia. If you want to try a supplement, these are some of the best SEE YOUR DOCTOR before taking probiotics if you have a medical condition that means you are immuno-suppressed. • VSL#3 (£14.95 plus P&P/10 days’ supply, vsl3.co.uk) These sachets, taken daily, contain 450 billion freeze-dried bacteria in eight strains. • Alflorex Precision Biotics (£24.99/30capsules, boots.com) Contains a live culture of Bifidobacterium 35624 , reported to improve bloating. • Bio-Kult Advance Formula (£9.48/30 capsules, bio-kult. com) Has 14 strains, many of which have been shown to help in the relief of IBS. • Bimuno IBAID Targeted Digestive Nutrition (£12/30pastilles, boots.com) A prebiotic fibre that increases the level of bifidobacteria.…

Ice cube jerk marinade MAKES 8 SMALL CUBES. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS FREEZING SHIVI’S TIPS Any leftover woody herbs, such as thyme, can be frozen whole in resealable freezer bags to be used in cooking. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Make the recipe gluten-free by replacing the soy sauce with tamari. In a food processor put 4 tsp allspice berries, toasted, ½ cinnamon stick, broken into shards and toasted, 3 tsp coriander seeds, toasted, 4 tsp fresh thyme leaves, 4 spring onions, roughly chopped, ½-1 Scotch bonnet pepper (or small red chilli), deseeded if you want less heat, 5 garlic cloves, 1 tsp grated nutmeg, 3 tbsp demerara sugar, the juice of 1 lime, ½ tsp soy sauce and 2 tsp sunflower oil. Whizz until you have a smoothish paste, then…

Plenty has been written on food and wine matching, but Which Wine When by Bert Blaize & Claire Strickett (Ebury £9.99, out 13 August) manages to cover the classic, tried and tested pairings while adding some inspiring, original suggestions. It’s clearly set out, with chapters covering the best wines for home-cooked classics, fancier dishes, snacks and (refreshingly) takeaways and fast food. There’s a cheese chapter and the section on what to match with sweet things is especially good – choc chip cookies with sweet marsala wine? Yes please. I don’t agree with all the combos – Goan fish curry with sweet asti sparkling, for example – but that’s the personal nature of the subject. Overall, it’s an excellent introductory guide.…

NAPLES The Wedding Officer by Anthony Capella (Sphere 2007) ON THE MENU In this steamy read, serious-minded British soldier James, posted to Naples in 1943, has his appetite awakened when he meets gifted cook Livia. A TASTER “The secondo was followed by a simple dessert of sliced pears with rosemary and honey. The flesh of the fruit looked as crisp and white as something Michelangelo might have carved with.” TOKYO Strange Weather in Tokyo by Hiromi Kawakami (Granta Books 2020) ON THE MENU Tsukiko reconnects with her old Japanese teacher over snacks and saké in a local bar. A TASTER “I loved my mother’s yudofu. In a small cup she mixes saké with soy sauce, sprinkling it with freshly shaved bonito, and then warms the cup... She heats the whole…

“The mention of a herb-encrusted side of salmon or warm, melty-cheesy quiche conjures up thoughts of leisurely feasts in the garden – a long lunch or perhaps a candlelit table on a balmy evening. For me, summer entertaining is about ease but with maximum enjoyment, and the joy of the recipes featured here is that they can be prepared in advance and served without any stress. All you need to add are a bowl of buttery mint-laced new potatoes and a green salad. Here’s to friends and family reunited – I hope.” JEN BEDLOE, FOOD EDITOR THE NEW VEGGIE GRILL – COLOURFUL, SMOKIN’ AND FULL OF FLAVOUR STICKY FINGERS: MEET AN ALLAMERICAN CLASSIC THE GARDEN TIPPLE Ginsecco THE NO-FUSS CROWDPLEASER SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD…

WORDS: PATRICK MCGUIGAN. ADDITIONAL WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPHS: RICHARD FAULKS THE GELATO SECRET It typically has 50 per cent less fat than ice cream but gelato tastes creamier because of how it’s made: slow churning instead of rapid beating, with little air incorporated Bruno Forte (a distant relative of Rocco) can pinpoint the moment he knew gelato was his future. “I took a course at the Gelato University in Bologna, and the first morning I was amazed by what we were making and tasting,” he says. “It was a ‘wow’ moment.” Bruno had decided to take the course after years in hospitality – running hotels in London, then back in the family trattoria in Swanage, set up by his grandfather in 1970. “Gelato has always been in the family,” he…

The siren call of the local ice cream van is a throwback to many people’s childhoods, along with the soft ice cream swirled from its spigot – but how did the vans come to roam our roads in the first place? Ice cream was once enjoyed only by the elite, but in the 19th century there was greater access to cheap imported ice and the popularity of ice cream boomed. Selling the cool treat to the masses was a mobile business from day one, with carts pulled by hand or horses. Bricks of ice cream (called hokey pokey) were cut from a slab and wrapped in waxed paper, but the infamous penny lick was the bestseller – a small taste served in a stubby, reusable and rarely washed glass. By…

RECIPE: JEN BEDLOE. PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRIS COURT. FOOD STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS If you don’t have a starter (a tangy homemade culture that nurtures wild yeast and adds the sour flavour) it’s simple to make one. All you need are three ingredients: strong white bread flour, rye flour and water – plus patience as you need 8-9 days for the starter to develop and become strong enough to bake with (don’t be put off – it takes very little of your actual time). For step-by-step instructions, search ‘sourdough’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. If you prefer you can use commercial yeast to make the dough – replace 50g sourdough starter with 5g (1 tsp) fast-action dried yeast.…

1 Drive… TO THE MOVIES Watching a film on the big screen from the comfort of your car is a novelty – not to mention good from a social distancing point of view. A new wave of drive-ins – screening perennial favourites like Dirty Dancing and Toy Story, plus new releases – caters to the need for safety with contactless ticketing and food and drink (high-end hotdogs ahoy!) delivered to your car door. Across the summer, the Luna Drive In Cinema will be in residence at Warwick Castle, Hertfordshire’s Knebworth House, Oxfordshire’s Blenheim Palace, Harewood House in Yorkshire, Tatton Park in Cheshire and locations in north and east London (from £35 for two; lunadriveincinema.com). Meanwhile Suzuki is touring cities including Edinburgh, Glasgow, Liverpool, Cardiff, Bristol and Southampton until 4 October,…

No, not whether it’s jam or cream first but how the word is pronounced. A survey of 50,000+ people conducted by the Universities of Bern and Cambridge found nearly 59 per cent rhymed scone with ‘gone’, with majorities in Scotland and Wales. Scone is more likely to be rhymed with ‘bone’ the further south you travel in Ireland, and in the East Midlands, Barking and Dagenham in England. Although region was the biggest determining factor, younger people and Black and Minority Ethnic respondents were more likely to rhyme scone with ‘bone’ too. Scone but not forgotten?…

DOWN TO EARTH Cornish new potatoes: buttery even without butter; fudgy in texture – and I love the delicate, papery skins. In Tesco (£1.23 for 750g) but the season is short – get them before they go DU PAIN, DU VIN, DU... PAYSAN? This new French garlic & herb cream cheese from Brittany producer Paysan Breton is so good – like a fluffier, lighter-textured version of Boursin (try it in my Boursin chicken recipe at deliciousmagazine.co.uk). £2 a tub, Waitrose IS IT A LIME, IS IT A MELON... No – it’s a limelon. The meloniness is there, but there’s also a sharp liminess to the flavour which, when the fruit is cold from the fridge on a hot day, is luscious. £3, selected M&S stores *OFFER VALID UNTIL 31 AUGUST…

Like many people, I got stuck into the food and drink deliveries in lockdown. But now I’ve realised how easy it is and how superior the products can be, I’ve carried on afterwards – especially since I’m still ‘WFH’. Here are a couple of things I’ve tested (someone’s gotta do it) that are worth ordering in Meat for the BBQ The sausages from Morton’s Family Farm, near Norwich, from curly-coated Mangalitza pigs, are possibly the best I’ve ever had. Their meat boxes (£45) change monthly and may include high-welfare meat from other local small farms as well as Morton’s free-range chicken. SAVE 10% on meat boxes until 31 August – use the code Meatbox10 when you check out at mortonsfarm.co.uk …and the beers to go with There are over 2,000…

HERO INGREDIENT TIN OF TUNA HERO INGREDIENT HALLOUMI HERO INGREDIENT CHICKEN THIGHS HERO INGREDIENT TIN OF CHICKPEAS HERO INGREDIENT TIN OF TUNA THE HERO CREDENTIALS Readily available and affordable, this classic storecupboard staple is rich in essential omega-3 fatty acids – crucial for health. The flavour is relatively gentle, which means tuna combines well with other, more punchy ingredients to great effect. It stands up well to heat, so it’s as good in a baked dish as it is in a salad. Stock up the cupboard! For more recipes search ‘tuna’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk Quinoa, tenderstem broccoli, avocado and tuna salad FEATURE COMPILED BY JEN BEDLOE SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN • 2 medium free-range eggs • 150g tenderstem broccoli • 2 tbsp mixed seeds • Splash olive oil •…

There’s no disputing that egg yolks are high in cholesterol and some studies have linked this to an increased risk of heart disease. But the evidence on this is conflicting, and to make the situation more complicated, eggs also contain compounds thought to lower the risk of heart disease. What’s more, scientists now believe cholesterol in food is not as problematic as previously thought. GOOD IN (MOST) PARTS On the positive side, eggs are packed with nutrients. They’re an excellent source of protein: one large egg contains around 7.5g or 12 per cent of the RDA for men. They also contain good amounts of vitamins D, A, B2 (riboflavin), B12, folate, lutein, choline, iodine and selenium. And eating eggs with other foods can boost the absorption of certain nutrients. For…

SUPER-RIPE RASPBERRIES EASIEST RASPBERRY JAM Weigh the fruit, spread out in a shallow oven dish, then sprinkle with an equal weight of granulated sugar. Put in a 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 oven for 30 minutes, stirring gently with a wooden spoon halfway through to help the sugar dissolve without breaking up the fruit too much. Remove from the oven, stir gently until the grittiness has gone, then cool for a few minutes and spoon into a sterilised jar. Cool fully, seal and chill. The loose-textured jam will keep for 2 weeks (though the flavour will lose some intensity) and is great with yogurt as well as on toast. RASPBERRY MOJITO (SERVES 1) Stir a few fresh mint leaves, the juice of 1 lime, 50ml agave syrup and 50ml white rum in…

PHOTOGRAPHS: ITOCK/GETTY IMAGES, LES DUNN It was the bit of Spain I’d always wanted to visit – and now the Costa de la Luz is the place I most want to return to. The stretch of Atlantic coast from Portugal to the Strait of Gibraltar, it’s a hallowed spot for seafood geeks like me, with celebrated langoustines and even-more-celebrated bluefin tuna. (Each May, following ancient tradition, fishermen set up a labyrinth of nets, the almadraba, to catch tuna migrating to the Mediterranean.) The area is also home to the Sherry Triangle – the three towns where the drink has been made for centuries. In lockdown, flicking through the pics, my family relived last year’s trip several times: our small son catching his first wave in a surf lesson (watersports are…

Portugal. Black pig cheeks with clams The Marmiteman @R1CH4RD1974 Bagels in Central Park Leah @Lea_Rob Berlin, currywurst with fries and a glass of beer bigger than my head Katherine P @katherine_lpl Aperitivo in Italy(plus gelato, pizza, arancini... you get the idea!) Sam @samivell Osaka  Takoyaki Nichola Barron @Nichola_Barron Pasta in Florence! Melita Wheeler @MelitaW17 Hong Kong to see my daughter and eat salt-and-pepper fried squid, quaffing Tsing Tao Angela @pantryprovidore New Zealand’s South Island and a mutton shortcrust pie with black sauce Anne Keenan @agkeenan Sicily, Ristorante da Vittorio in Menfi, yes please right now Thomas @thomasTMFmorley South of France for a large bowl of moules frites, some runny cheese, a crisp muscadet and proper ripe peaches. And a decent French baguette, and a cassoulet, the ripe cherries and and...…

1 Mushroom shawarma In a small bowl, mix 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, 1½ tbsp smoked paprika, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1 crushed garlic clove, 1 tbsp lemon juice and 1 tbsp maple syrup to make a marinade. Thread 600-700g sliced mushrooms (shitake, king oyster and/or portobello would be good) onto metal skewers, arrange on a tray, then brush all over with the marinade and leave for 15 minutes. Brush with a little oil, then grill on a barbecue for 6 minutes on each side or until charred and caramelised. Serve with warmed flatbreads, houmous and crumbled feta, sprinkled, if you like, with sumac and pickled chillies. 2 Barbecued whole cauliflower Trim the base of a whole cauliflower so it sits flat (leave any small leaves…

3 THINGS TO GET YOUR TASTE BUDS TINGLING 1. Yotam Ottolenghi’s guide to flavour (within five minutes you’ll be rushing to your kitchen to cook) 2. Magic family recipes to create more time, ease pressure and spark joy 3. The sweet treats you need to try: mango, passion fruit & burnt honey cheesecake... Quick-mix chocolate, sour cherry & rye cookies... POUR A GLASS OF WINE, SIT BACK AND RELAX… • Could you just pack up and go? A European road trip to dream about • Food for thought: why now is our opportunity to change the world • Darina Allen’s spicy roast-lamb tribute to her food hero, Madhur Jaffrey PLUS!  How to plan a kitchen that works TESTED: THE BEST LOW-SUGAR TONIC WATERS • RISOTTO: DELIA MAKES IT EASY…

When it comes to traditional British ice cream, for the full-on sensation of creamy, velvety gorgeousness you need to make it with a classic egg custard base. It takes more time and you have to make it with care, but boy is it worth it. Food editor Jen Bedloe shows you how to get it right and adds some classic flavours. Plus: Phoebe Stone has the low-down on ice cream folklore, and sweet-toothed food experts reveal their favourite iced treats THE CLASSIC Vanilla ice cream MAKES ABOUT 2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS CHILLING AND FREEZING MAKE AHEAD Keep the ice cream in an airtight container for 4-5 days. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Wash and dry the used vanilla pods, then put in a jar of caster sugar to infuse…

“Banana Lolly – only because it’s not the easiest to get hold of so it’s more fun when you track it down. It’s quite artificial tasting, and something childish in me really likes that. Texturally it’s very pleasing – a cross between suspiciously icy (because no one buys that one so it’s usually right at the bottom of the freezer) and satisfyingly creamy. It was only 60p back in the day.” Ravneet Gill, author of The Pastry Chef’s Guide “A 99 with a flake and ‘monkey’s blood’ – that’s what we called the red syrup that was poured over, but there was never enough of it! I still love the super-smooth texture of Mr Whippy, with a Cadbury’s Flake (not a cheaper alternative) plunged into it, and the syrup seemed…

1 CAN YOU SUBSTITUTE OTHER FLOUR FOR BREAD FLOUR? Yes, you can use all-purpose plain flour, but you’ll need to reduce the amount of water by about 5% (13g less than in the recipe overleaf ). 2 HOW LONG CAN YOU LEAVE THE DOUGHBALLS TO PROVE (RISE) IN THE FRIDGE? Once you’ve shaped your doughballs you can cold-prove them in the fridge for between 8 and 72 hours, then bring the doughballs back up to room temperature (about 2 hours). If the dough isn’t at room temperature before you start stretching, it will be too tight to stretch. 3 CAN YOU FREEZE LEFTOVER DOUGH? Yes: put the balls in the freezer on baking paper and open-freeze for an hour. Remove and tightly wrap each ball in cling film, then freeze…