Table of contents for November 2019 in Delicious UK

RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING THE FOOD TEAMPHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT STYLING WEI TANG This Italian dish is a pastryless quiche – a cross between a flan and a soufflé. According to Italian food writer Antonio Piccinardi, the word sformato derives from sformare, which means to unmould. Middle Eastern-spiced nut roast with three-potato topping SERVES 10. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20-25 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the day ahead, keep covered in the fridge, then reheat until piping hot in a low oven to serve KNOWHOW Aleppo pepper, or pul biber is not-too-hot chilli flakes from the Middle East. Buy from Waitrose or souschef.co.uk. If you can’t find it, use a good-quality paprika instead. Purple sweet potatoes have a rich flavour and creamy texture. If you can’t find them,…

SUBJECT: HONEST LABELLING FROM: HARRIET HIGGINS I agree with Philip Lymbery [Oct, p146]: we need legal definitions of terms like ‘free range’ and ‘outdoor reared’ for all animals to prevent companies effectively telling lies about their products. Labelling should go beyond shop shelves. Many restaurants show calories on menus; why not reveal the welfare standards of what they serve? We need to encourage transparency. What YOU’VE been making... @ambia.kx Salmon & potato bake JOIN OUR NEW READER PANEL and have more of a say in your favourite magazine. From time to time, we’ll email you to ask you to take part in surveys on various aspects of the magazine, website, podcast and more. SIGN UP AT deliciousmagazine.co.uk/readerpanel Poll of the month We asked on Twitter: does pineapple belong on a…

Not for dunking This quirky gold-plated necklace is for serious biscuit lovers. Food-loving jeweller Lily Charmed also makes peapod, ice cream and bourbon biscuit trinkets. Custard Cream necklace (12mm x 8mm x 3mm), lilycharmed.co.uk Bowl food The S’Well insulated travel bowl keeps food hot for up to six hours or cold for up to eight, with a second container inside for extra snacks or garnishes. Packed lunches have never looked so desirable. Insulated nesting food bowls, £35 for 473ml or £45 for 636ml, amara.com *FOR PARTICIPATING JOHN LEWIS STORES, PLEASE VISIT JOHNLEWIS.COM/CONTENT/KITKAT Mixed thrill There’s no stirring required with this ready-made Italian aperitivo. Prepared with clove-infused Portobello Road gin, Italian sweet vermouth, Campari and festive blood orange liqueur, it only requires ice and a slice and you’re ready to go.…

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES I am writing this on a desk stacked with recipe books and previous Christmas issues of magazines of many nations. I have Post-it Notes. I have pencils. I have hot chocolate. The Christmas movie channel has taken over from Radio 4 as my daily cook-along companion of choice. I feel it in my fingers, I feel it in my toes, Christmas is all around me and I couldn’t be more excited. And in the spirit of full disclosure, I’ve been like this since September. I have a very serious case of SOD: Seasonal Overexcited Disorder. My first married Christmas, I threw a drinks party on Christmas Eve. I hosted lunch for 12 on Christmas Day and afternoon tea on Boxing Day. I had committed to The Best…

“This is your chance to buy (or give) the first ever delicious. Christmas hamper, with items chosen by me and put together by the team at super-stylish department store Harvey Nichols, famous for the quality of its food. This is the first time Harvey Nichols has allowed an ‘outsider’ to curate a hamper, so it really is an exclusive gift and great value at £125. For me, the challenging part was whittling down the contents from the huge and wonderful choice available, getting the mix of products just right – it had to be extra special. I wanted to include some unusual things with more traditional items, plus a bit of booze (of course!). So, alongside the warming port and moreish damson gin, you’ll discover the flavours of truffle, parmesan,…

REN BEHAN “It’s all about the special atmosphere of the Polish Christmas Eve supper” “In Poland, where my parents were from, Christmas Eve supper is known as Wigilia. It comes from the word vigil and it’s the meal I cherish most. Wholly meatless, it reflects the food available during the Polish winter, with elements from the forest, sea, field and orchard. When I was a child, preparations for the 12 dishes (one for each of the apostles) began days ahead. My job was to set the table, putting a few strands of hay under the cloth to represent the stable in which Jesus was born. An extra place would be set for the unexpected guest; I’d always wonder who might knock at the door. I remember peering out of the…

Tamarind & bacon-wrapped chicken wings and halloumi SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-40 MIN, PLUS MARINATING • 60g tamarind paste (from large supermarkets) • 2 garlic cloves, crushed • 6 medjool dates, stones removed, chopped • 2 tbsp fish sauce • 2 tbsp light soy sauce • 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil • Juice 1 lime • 4 tbsp runny honey • 500g free-range chicken wings, halved at the joint • 500g halloumi, cut into sticks • 12 British free-range unsmoked streaky bacon rashers, halved • Microherbs or thyme leaves to serve FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE • 2 tbsp rice wine vinegar • 1 tsp freshly grated ginger • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil • 1 tbsp runny honey • 2 spring onions, finely sliced YOU’LL ALSO…

BEST SPARKLING Exquisite Collection Crémant du Jura 2017, France (£8.29, Aldi) Bargain bubbly that really appeals with its fresh apple, tangy citrus and lively bubbles. Finishes dry and crisp with a light toasty note. BEST REDS Sous le Soleil du Midi Merlot 2018, France (£5.99, Waitrose) There’s a lovely plummy juiciness here and a hint of cassis, but it’s not too heavy for a party, either on its own or with some savoury nibbles. Hereford Tempranillo 2018, Mendoza, Argentina (£7, Co-op) An easy-going, soft and ripe red made in Argentina from the classic rioja grape. A compote of red berries, cheerful and bright. BEST LOW ALCOHOL Atopia Spiced Citrus Ultra-Low Alcohol Spirit (£24 for 70cl, Sainsbury’s; 0.5% abv) I’ve picked this for its neatly poised flavours of orange zest, orange…

No.3 London Dry Gin, Berry Bros & Rudd, Holland, 46% (from £33.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, Waitrose) A well balanced gin from the famous London drinks merchant, distilled in Holland, with lots of juniper and hits of citrus and pepper. Martin Miller’s Gin, England and Iceland, 40% (from £23, widely available) Distilled in the Black Country, then shipped to Iceland for blending with Icelandic water, Martin Miller’s is renowned for its smooth, clean style. Refreshing price, too. Beefeater London Dry Gin, London, 40% (from £15.99, widely available) Many consider this the best of the less pricey big brands. It delivers a generous juniper hit with citrus streaks. Made by the ‘godfather of gin’, Desmond Payne MBE. Plymouth Gin, Devon, 41.2% (£25.50, widely available) Earthy with aromatic, spicy notes and a…

PORTRAITS: TREVOR LEIGHTON, CRISTIAN BARNETT. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Renowned for marrying Michelin-starred food with the heritage of the great British pub, Tom Kerridge is one of Britain’s finest and best loved chefs. He’s also a footie fan (Tom supports Marlow FC), so it’s fitting that he’ll be joining delicious. and Delia at her Top of the Terrace venue at Norwich City Football Club to celebrate his latest cookbook. After fizz and canapés you’ll enjoy Tom’s exciting three-course menu with coffee (see right). The menu will be accompanied by wines specially chosen and introduced by Jason Banner of Peter Graham wines, followed by an informal Q&A with Tom. Signed copies of Tom’s new cookbook, Lose Weight & Get Fit: High-flavour Cooking for Dieting and Fitness (Bloomsbury £22; out in January),…

“Every year I have a hope. A hope that this will be the year where life is so organised that, for once, I’ll be able to sit down with a glass of mulled wine at 9pm on Christmas Eve and watch It’s a Wonderful Life instead of staying up until 2am wrapping presents, bits of Sellotape in my hair, writing cards to the neighbours as the last tealight sputters out (note: buy tealights). It all begins so well. The list – or, rather, lists – are made and the cooking days planned in, but a few things usually get cast aside because work intervenes or because, well, life. But THERE’S NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT. Planning brings calm, but plans are made to be veered away from, so follow this calendar…

PORTRAIT: MARK BOURDILLON. ILLUSTRATION: GETTY IMAGES “Can you help me with these?” said Chloe. She was wrapping the small presents for the twins’ stockings: chocolate coins, clementines, mini toys... It was a family tradition. Although, she wondered as she looked at Joe, stretched out on the sofa watching an old episode of Inspector Morse, did family traditions mean anything to him these days? “I’m knackered, honey,” said Joe, not looking away from a terse exchange between Morse and his smarmy superior. “ You’re knackered?” Chloe said, with more force than she’d intended. “We don’t need to wrap them anyway,” said Joe. “You spend all that time, then the kids tear them open in seconds. Why bother? Just fill the stockings.” “The point of stockings,” Chloe began through clenched teeth, “is…

PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND We’re doing Christmas slightly differently in 2019. Why? Because many of you got in touch last year saying you’d like more time to think about what you want to cook. I get that. Christmas needs more of a lead-in than other celebrations because we tend to set so much store by it, don’t we? When you ask, we listen, so welcome to Christmas part one, with a focus on fuzzy festive dreams and getting ahead. December (part two) is our Christmas & New Year issue, and the two magazines are designed as a set to give you celebratory inspiration in bucketfuls. And of course, there’s plenty you’ll want to cook and eat right now. Getting back to the planning bit, here is an insight…

PHOTOGRAPHS: GARETH MORGANS, STUART WEST. COVER PHOTOGRAPH: TREVOR LEIGHTON STAR EMAIL FROM: JAYNE DANIELS Christmas has never been a happy time for me. My dad died at Christmas when I was six years old and from that time Mum always found Christmas challenging. She also passed away at Christmas, nine years ago. What’s this got to do with Delia, you may ask... Well, I’m endeavouring to change my Christmases and make them a happier time for me and my loved ones, and I use Delia’s amazing Happy Christmas book every year. My Christmas wouldn’t be the same without it, and the recipes all work perfectly, from the planning to the execution. I’m attempting to move forward and make my own traditions – it’s not easy, but Delia is the backbone…

Cook any recipe from this month’s issue, then enter our competition for a chance to win a tasting menu for two at one of Britain’s finest restaurants, courtesy of Saint Agur cheese Raymond Blanc’s two Michelin-starred restaurant, Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons (manoir.com), emphasises beautiful seasonal dishes and outstanding produce. Set in a gracious 15th-century manor in Oxfordshire, it combines British heritage with French flair. Our winner this month will enjoy an exclusive seven-course tasting menu for two, including a glass of champagne on arrival and a half-bottle of wine for each guest with their meal. FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN… Make any recipe from this issue, take a picture, then share it with us by 30 November 2019. EAGER TO RE-CREATE MORE FINE DINING AT HOME? Saint Agur, the…

Rum and pineapple Christmas pudding MAKES 2 X 1 LITRE PUDDINGS (EACH SERVES 6). HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, STEAMING TIME 5 HOURS, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING MAKE AHEAD Cool the puddings with the foil and baking paper intact, then store in a cool place for up to 3 months. To reheat, steam as in step 3 for 1½ hours. Turn out onto a serving dish, giving the basin a sharp shake to release the pudding. FOOD TEAM’S TIP To watch how to get your pud ready for cooking, search ‘How to wrap a pudding for steaming’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. • 250g mixture sultanas and currants • 75g blanched almonds, roughly chopped • 175g dried ready-to-eat pineapple • Finely grated zest 2 limes • 100ml pineapple juice • 75g fresh white breadcrumbs •…

• Harvey Nichols Late Bottled Vintage Port 500ml• Harvey Nichols Damson Gin 350ml • Harvey Nichols Lime and Coconut Curd 310g• Harvey Nichols Panettone 500g • Harvey Nichols Christmas Blend Ground Coffee 200g• Harvey Nichols Traditional Mini Mince Pies x 12• Harvey Nichols Mixed Whole Olives with Green Pepper and Chilli 400g• Harvey Nichols Caramelised Cinnamon Almonds 50g• Harvey Nichols Yorkshire Rhubarb and Orange Preserve 340g• Harvey Nichols Apricot Chutney 320g • Harvey Nichols Ginger Spice Biscuits Copper Tin 225g• Harvey Nichols Parmesan and Fennel Cheese Straws 100g• Harvey Nichols White Truffle Mayonnaise 300g • Harvey Nichols Bloody Orange Marmalade 325g PLUS...Your delicious. recipe card for a sublime white chocolate, lime & coconut cheesecake…

“Of all the recipes I’ve created over the 50 years, this would stand alone as being the most popular – even now strangers still come up and tell me they always make it. The recipe was originally a combination of my mother’s and grandmother’s versions. Over the years it has also been used for countless weddings and other celebrations. To describe it, I would say it’s dark, moist, very rich and more fruit than cake. I sometimes ice it but not always, as it’s also very good served with a wedge of strong cheddar (as in Yorkshire). PORTRAIT: TREVOR LEIGHTON. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH The quality of the ingredients is important: best to hand-chop candied peel and not use it ready chopped. Fortunately, we’ve now found…

PHOTOGRAPH: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE.STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR. PORTRAIT: MAXINE KIRSTY SAPSFORD “I love the combination of dark chocolate and fiery crystallised ginger – it’s become a seasonal favourite. I do love a good Christmas fruitcake too but I don’t always have the time to take the traditional route and bake it weeks or months ahead. You can make this cake up to a week before Christmas – the sponge will become stickier and more flavoursome.” Chocolate gingerbread Christmas cake SERVES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN TIME 50-55 MIN MAKE AHEAD The decorated cake will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week (see Paul’s introduction). The un-iced sponge will keep, well wrapped, in the freezer for up to 1 month. Defrost overnight, then decorate to…

“The rise of top quality gins continues at a breathtaking pace and it’s a thrilling show of spirits. With the best time of year for celebrations just around the corner, why not throw a Christmas gin party? I’ve included a palate-rousing punch, the best of the new gins, my pick of the classic brands, plenty of tips on tonics and (the latest trend) gin schools. It’s all here bar the garnishes –I’ll leave that to you. Cheers!” LEARN TO MAKE YOUR OWN: 5 GREAT CLASSES KINLOCH LODGE, SCOTLAND Spend three nights on the Isle of Skye with a special foraging trip and end up with your own homemade gin. A ghillie will lead you into the wilds to find the botanicals you’ll use to make your bespoke spirit. The 17th-century…

Selection of canapés Los Haroldos Extra Brut Sparkling NV, Mendoza, Argentina Citrus-cured mackerel with vegetable escabeche Humo Blanco Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Colchagua Valley, Chile Treacle-cured fillet of beef with beef suet cottage demi-pie, salt-baked celeriac and red wine sauce Quara Estate Tannat 2018, Cafayate Valley, Argentina Tonka bean pannacotta, poached forced rhubarb, ginger wine jellies and ginger meringues Toro de Piedra Gran Reserva Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon 2017, Curicó Valley, Chile Coffee and white chocolate pebbles WINE SPONSORED BY…

1 & 2 MAKE A CHRISTMAS CAKE AND PUD (SEE P84 & P36) Stir-up Sunday is on 24 November this year. The Victorians loved creating new traditions and started making Christmas puddings on the Sunday before Advent because the trad church reading begins ‘Stir up, we beseech thee, O Lord’. 3 FEELING CRAFTY-CREATIVE? MAKE AN ADVENT CALENDAR I’ve never done this before, but I love Georgina Hayden’s simple idea (see p94) for attaching stapled envelopes, filled with homemade goodies, to a thin branch, then hanging it up to enjoy every day in the run-up to Christmas.…

EDINBURGH “There are exciting openings all over the city” BY CAROLINE EDEN WHERE TO SHOP When I first moved to Edinburgh five years ago, I was struck by the number of independent shops and cafés in neighbourhoods such as Morningside and Stockbridge – and since then, exciting openings have popped up in other pockets of the city. At the heart of Stockbridge, north of the city centre, is IJ Mellis (mellischeese.net), one of Britain’s best cheesemongers and a specialist in artisan Scottish cheese. Stop in and try the smoky tangy auld reekie from Aberdeenshire or the Alpine-like westray wife from Orkney. Their gift vouchers (also available online) make a great gift for cheese lovers. Just across the road, Vino (vinowines.co.uk) is crammed with local drinks brands including gins from The…

PORTRAIT OF MARCUS: SUSAN BELL. ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES BACK TO MY ROOTS My father was a fruit and vegetable merchant in Lancashire and hated waste. Everything got eaten, and he never brought home more from the warehouse than we needed. Back then, meat and veg were cooked to death: parsnips were a killer; sprouts I struggled with. My mum was good at baking – apple pies for the freezer, a couple of victoria sponges. I would be there with her in the kitchen, rolling pastry and lining tins. Great fun. THE GOOD LIFE A couple of years ago, my wife Jane and I bought a place with some land in Kent. We have bees, an orchard and a kitchen garden. Getting back to the soil and seeing things grow…

“As far as my daughters are concerned, the magical time of Christmas starts as early as the beginning of November – and I think many of us feel the same way. The roots of the festive magic are entwined in the security of childhood and the wonder of it all. There’s something that takes us back in time and makes us feel reassuringly safe and cosy, no matter how old we may be. Family, friends, the hustle and bustle of our market town, thick coats, gloves and hats, the smell of coal smoke on a cold, quiet afternoon – I love it all, but it’s the good food and the busy kitchen I think I love the most. My festive daydreaming tends to turn to ham, blue cheese, smoked…

PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND FOOD STYLING SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH STYLING LUIS PERAL Alex Mackay’s Moroccan-spiced roast ’n’ braise lamb shoulder & onions with freekeh, ginger, citrus and honey SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 40-50 MIN, OVEN TIME 4 HOURS 15 MIN PORTRAIT: PETER KNAB “My roast ’n’ braise technique captures the flavour of a roast with the melting richness of a slow braise. This recipe was inspired by the enchanting North African influence on the food of my beloved Provence, with the appetising tangle of sweet, sour and spice I so adore. I serve it with gravy-soaked freekeh and soft, savoury onions that get drunk on the lamb’s flavour and become as good as the meat itself.” MAKE AHEAD The lamb loses a little of its lustre but can be prepared fully a…

Coq au riesling SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN “I’ve never been entirely happy with coq au vin, as the ‘vin’ bit always seems rather pale. Alsace’s answer to coq au vin, coq au riesling, works better because white wine with cream and lots of parsley looks much more appetising.” MAKE AHEAD Cool, cover and chill for up to 2 days or transfer to freezerproof containers and freeze for up to 1 month. Defrost in the fridge overnight and reheat until piping hot to serve. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Put the shallots in a heatproof bowl and pour over just-boiled water to cover. Set aside for 5 minutes, then drain. This loosens the skins so the shallots are easier to peel. • 2 tbsp vegetable oil •…

“Now there’s so much brilliant British charcuterie, it’s hard to think back a decade or so ago when Italian, Spanish or French cured meats were all we could get. So let’s celebrate with a beautiful board of British cured meat that tempts both eye and taste buds with contrasting flavours, textures and colours.” HOW TO ARRANGE IT Rather than slapping down slices straight from the packet, separate them, then arrange artfully – fold some over, curl some round, drape others – the aim is to add height and visual texture, while leaving the slices accessible. WHAT TO ADD A good chutney or relish (search ‘chutney’ at deliciousmagazine.co. uk or buy a good ready-made one such as The Bay Tree Spicy Tomato & Caramelised Onion Chutney, from delis and on Ocado); quality…

Buy the Delia Online 20cm x 8cm round cake tin with loose base, £16.95 from Silverwood, and receive a free Delia Online Bake-O-Glide™ liner pack for the 20cm cake tin worth £7.50. Visit silverwood-bakeware.com and use the special code Delia50 at the checkout. The tin is guaranteed for 25 years and is handcrafted in Birmingham, England. Ts&Cs: Single-use code valid from 1 November to 15 December 2019 for the Delia Online cake tin and liner mentioned above only. Promotion only available through silverwood-bakeware.com…

“A handmade present or card is more meaningful than a shop-bought one. There’s little more precious than someone’s time” “During the lead-up to Christmas, I say a big hello to my inner child. Out comes the heaving box of craft supplies that I’ve accumulated over the years: fancy papers and ribbons, stickers and labels (that Fine Art degree finally came in handy). Seriously, though, a handmade present or card is so much more meaningful than a shop-bought one. There’s little that’s more precious these days than someone’s time. Also, as much as I love the festive season, I don’t love the never-ending tat we’re told we ‘need’ and ‘must buy’. I’d be so much happier with a jar of homemade chutney for my Boxing Day cheeseboard, or someone’s aunt’s whisky-soaked…

Tesco Finest Tonic Water (£1.20/500ml) A mixer that comes out well in blind tastings. No fancy name, label or ingredients but a decent tonic at a fair price. Double Dutch Cranberry & Ginger Tonic Water (95p/200ml, thewhiskyexchange.com ) Tastes festive. Pair with a robust gin. Fever-Tree Refreshingly Light Mediterranean Tonic Water (£1.70/500ml, Morrisons) Lower sugar and a faint floral hint, too. Merchant’s Heart Floral Aromatics Tonic Water (£1.30/200ml, Sainsbury’s) A touch sweet with subtle florals and crisp bubbles.…

Herby crème fraîche salmon fillets with grilled avocado and mixed grains SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 10 MIN • 4 tbsp half-fat crème fraîche • 2 tbsp wholegrain mustard • A few fresh dill sprigs, leaves picked • Finely grated zest and juice 1 lemon, plus wedges to serve • 4 lightly smoked sustainable salmon fillets • 4 tbsp panko breadcrumbs • 1 avocado, stoned, quartered and peeled • Olive oil for brushing • 500g cooked mixed grains, or a mix of grains and rice, heated (we like Merchant Gourmet) • 2 tbsp mixed seeds (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°Cfan/gas 4. In a small bowl, mix the crème fraîche, mustard, most of the dill, the lemon zest and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Put…

AN ITALIAN CHRISTMAS WHERE HH&Co Backstage, Lime Wood, Lyndhurst, Hampshire (limewoodhotel.co.uk) THE PRICE £195 for a full day including lunch with wine TESTED BY Sara Norman THE SETTING The school is part of the plush Lime Wood hotel in the gorgeous green heart of the New Forest. The HH&Co refers to the hotel’s Italian-influenced restaurant, Hartnett Holder & Co, run by chefs Angela and Luke, and the courses give a ‘backstage’ view of the restaurant’s offerings. GROUP SIZE AND WORK SPACE Our tutor for the day (and the school’s main instructor) was experienced head chef Iain Longhorn, whose relaxed manner put our group of 10 at ease. The teaching area, in the airy basement of the hotel, has mellow lighting and plenty of wood, so it feels more like a…