Table of contents for April 2019 in Delicious UK

PHOTOGRAPHS: TOBY SCOTT, SUE LACEY PHOTOGRAPHY The smell of good things to come I’ve just been discussing with Jen, our food editor, what we love about the Easter weekend, and we decided a key element is that sense of anticipation as you walk into a house suffused with enticing aromas – whether there are brunch eggs being rustled up in the kitchen (p24), a chocolatey or spicy cake baking (p56) or the big roast slow-cooking its way to perfection in the oven (p42).  Getting people in the mood for happy times is as significant as it is important. A stretch of time off also gives moments for reflection, and on p20 we look back to a year that changed food in this country forever. Who were the catalysts? It was…

In association with The Good Food Guide ALCHEMILLA alchemillarestaurant.uk This subterranean Victorian coach house in inner-city Nottingham is overseen by Alex Bond ( The Good Food Guide’s Chef to Watch, right), who used to be at Restaurant Sat Bains. THE SETTING Abandoned for more than a century, the vaulted red-brick space has been rebooted with vertical moss gardens and giant skylights. It’s bold, bright and surprising – qualities echoed in the kitchen. THE FOOD Bond crafts tasting menus (£60/£70/£85) that shift the focus from meat to veg. Hen of the woods mushrooms are paired with buttermilk and black garlic, while a grain risotto gets an umami hit from aged parmesan and truffles. It’s not a vegetarian restaurant, but meat is used sparingly and there are vegan choices. THE VERDICT With…

Restaurateur James Ramsden, our man about town in the capital, charts the ‘rise’ of restaurants that are nurturing in-house bakeries Generating revenue during off-peak hours can be the difference between a restaurant ticking along (at best) and thriving, so it’s no wonder that bakeries are part of the restaurant model. Who’s been to St John (stjohnrestaurant.com) and resisted picking up a bag of doughnuts on the way out? St John now has bakeries in Bermondsey and Neal’s Yard, the latter opposite Jacob the Angel (jacobtheangel.co.uk), a bijou set-up next to, and owned by, the Barbary restaurant’s founders. Pop in for the lush pastries, stay to gawp at the graphic design. Sarit Packer’s Middle Eastern-inflected baking at Honey & Co (honeyandco.co.uk), available both there and at their deli, Honey & Spice,…

BACK IN THE DAY We’d go to my great grandad’s house and my grandma would have cooked a stew with Yorkshire puds in his coal range – he didn’t have an electric or gas oven. You can’t replicate that kind of taste. Sundays, it was lunch at grandma’s, then my mum and auntie Brenda would join grandma to bake pies, cakes, biscuits and scones, ready for everyone to have tea. We always had corned beef and onion pie – traditional in northeast England. Mum still makes it for me when I visit. It’s really good. EYE FOR DETAIL In 1996 I was offered a job with Marco Pierre White at the Criterion in Piccadilly as a pastry chef. It was a complete culture shock. I’d get home at 3am and…

Last year, chef and food writer Valentina Harris was the delicious. ambassador who oversaw the regional judging of our Produce Awards. I’ve asked her to pick a few of her favourites that didn’t win but which are nevertheless mighty fine and well worth checking out… “How could I not fall in love with this gorgeous Yorkshire speciality when it arrived so beautifully packaged with a ribbon and hand-written note? I’m not sure if it was the amazing texture – moist cake studded with little crunchy nuggets – or the warming ginger that made it so extraordinary for me, but either way this was my absolute favourite from the northeast. £3.80 for 420g, lottieshaws.co.uk…

Pineapple and clotted cream fritters with salted caramel sauce RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON MAKES 20-24. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, FRYING TIME 30 MIN MAKE AHEAD You can make the batter a few hours ahead if you want to. Cover and chill, then mix briefly with a balloon whisk to make sure it’s smooth before frying. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Keep leftover caramel sauce in a sterilised jar in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Warm to soften for use. • 200g fresh pineapple wedges, roughly chopped • 100g self-raising flour • ¼ tsp baking powder • ¼ tsp ground cinnamon, plus an extra pinch • 3 tbsp golden caster sugar • 2 medium free-range eggs • 2 tbsp clotted cream • Vegetable…

Celeriac and rocket sformato SERVES 6-8 AS A MAIN COURSE. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 60-70 MIN, PLUS COOLING MAKE AHEAD Leftovers will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days. Reheat in a low oven to serve. FOOD TEAM’S TIP Serve the sformato warm or at room temperature. Swap the filling for other roasted seasonal veg – try butternut squash or cauliflower. • 500g celeriac, trimmed and peeled • Olive oil for roasting • 30g unsalted butter • 30g plain flour • 450ml whole milk • 250g baby leaf spinach • 250g wild rocket • 250g ricotta • 3 large free-range eggs, beaten • Whole nutmeg for grating • 100g vegetarian parmesan-style cheese, grated • 2 fresh tarragon sprigs, leaves picked and chopped…

• CUT THE WASTE Don’t chuck the potato peelings. Toss them in a splash of oil and add them to the roasting tin for the last 20 minutes of the cooking time for a cook’s perk. • ADD SOME UMAMI 10 minutes before the end of roasting, toss the potatoes in a spoonful or two of Marmite or miso for an umami kick. Or add some fried smoked bacon lardons to the tin 5 minutes before the end of roasting. • SPICE IT UP Toss the potatoes in a pinch of paprika or curry powder immediately after parboiling and roughing up, before you tumble them into the hot fat, then sprinkle over fresh coriander to serve. Or try adding 2 tbsp fresh curry paste, harissa, chipotle paste or spicy Korean…

• With this platter, everything apart from the chilled chestnut cream is best served at room temperature – and (apart from the prunes) it’s best not to make the various elements more than a couple of hours before serving. • The chorizo and asparagus need to be cooked just before you assemble the platter as they’re served warm. The tomatoes are lovely either still warm from the oven or at room temperature. Everything else is best made no more than a couple of hours before serving. Cover the two cheesy dips and keep them in the fridge, ready to assemble.…

Martha Collison is a baker and food writer who stole our hearts as the youngest-ever contestant (then aged just 17) on The Great British Bake Off in 2014. Martha has two brilliant baking books under her belt – Twist and Crave, both published by HarperCollins – and has appeared on The Great British Bake Off: An Extra Slice and Saturday Kitchen. “When I think about Easter, one word springs to mind: lightness. Chunky knit jumpers are packed away and replaced with thin jackets, light triumphs over darkness as the days get longer, and heavily spiced, rich bakes are replaced with delicately fruited concoctions. I love the traditions behind our favourite Easter treats, with their decorations reflecting the life of Jesus, and I’ve updated my versions with a breath of fresh…

“Passover commemorates the Jewish people’s hasty Exodus from Egypt. The Bible tells that this left no time for even the bread to rise, so yeast-leavened and most wheat products are symbolically avoided during Passover, and substituted with ground almonds and potato flour. Most British Jews from an Ashkenazic (Central or Eastern European) background, even those who don’t often eat biscuits, will find themselves unable to drink a cup of tea at Passover without a plate of these almond macaroons on the table to at least look at. My family have been making them for generations, even in the 1940s when almonds were scarce, and eggs and sugar were rationed. Kosher-prepared almonds weren’t available, so my great-grandmother would crack, blanch and grind them all by hand. My own mother recalls my…

“There’s nothing quite like the sugary sweetness and delicate texture of freshly cut asparagus. Whether you serve it raw as part of a crunchy crudités platter with a rich, lemony mayonnaise, or lightly steamed and buttered with crisp pancetta, poached eggs and black pepper, this short-seasoned gem of a vegetable is not to be missed. When you’re buying asparagus, look out for firm, snappy spears with tight tips and a bright emerald colour. It may be pricey, but that’s because it’s special. It takes several years for the crowns – the part of the plant the spears grow from – to produce their first stems, and then they’ll only yield a limited amount. You should be able to find really great locally grown stuff on the shelves of good farm…

ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES Sometimes when I’m feeling exhausted, grumpy or sad, I grab the remote and spin through the channels until I find the Food Network and my dear Ina. Ina Garten, also known as the Barefoot Contessa after the posh deli she used to own in the Hamptons in New York, is my go-to televisual comfort watch. There’s nothing fancy or complicated about her food – think pot pies, gratins, big salads and slabs of brownies. Ina’s books and programmes are filled with friends and stories. Yes, of course, the scenes are set up for television. There she goes, taking curried chicken wraps to a freezing-looking beach-volleyball picnic, or making little sandwiches for the opening of her friend’s florist shop, or arranging the snacks for her bridge-night pals. But…

OUT: SALT IN: SEAWEED The World Health Organisation says many of us consume too much salt (sodium chloride), a modifiable risk factor for high blood pressure. But unseasoned food can be a bland old business, which makes cutting down a challenge. Step forward seaweed, now widely available in granules, flakes or dried sheets you can chop yourself. WHY IS IT GOOD FOR YOU? Seaweed is a flavourful source of nutrients, including protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals such as calcium, copper, iodine and iron. It also contains glutamate, an amino acid that plays an important role in brain function, and delivers umami, the lip-smackingly savoury ‘fifth taste’.…

ADAPTED FROM A RECIPE BY PHOEBEWOOD. PHOTOGRAPH: CHRIS COURT.STYLING: KIRSTEN JENKINS Chicken parmigiana soup SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR MAKE AHEAD Cover the soup and keep in the fridge for up to 2 days, or freeze in labelled food bags for up to 2 months. Reheat in a pan until piping hot before serving. It’s best to make the croutons fresh so they’re properly crunchy. FOOD TEAM’S TIP If you’re nearing the end of your wedge of parmesan, throw the hard rind in with the tomatoes and stock to add even more flavour. • 4 tbsp olive oil • 6 free-range skinless, boneless chicken thighs • 1 onion, finely chopped • 1 fennel bulb, finely chopped, fronds reserved (if possible) and finely chopped • 2…

RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR Satay french toast with avocado SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP For extra richness, add a sprinkle of demerara sugar before grilling, then serve with a drizzle of tamari or soy sauce, thinly sliced cucumber, chopped peanuts and coriander. • 2 tbsp milled flaxseeds • 200ml light coconut milk • 3 tbsp crunchy peanut butter (we used Manilife Deep Roast from hollandandbarrett.com) • 1-2 garlic cloves, crushed • 2cm piece fresh ginger, grated • 4 slices sourdough bread • Vegetable oil to grease • 1 ripe avocado, sliced • Thinly pared zest and juice 1 lime • Handful salad herbs (we used Growing Underground Asian micro herbs from M&S and Ocado) • ½ red chilli,…

Chickpea dhal with naan bread crisps SERVES 4 AS A SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 10 MIN Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7. Heat 1 tbsp ghee in a pan, then fry 1 chopped onion for 8 minutes until soft and starting to colour. Add 1 crushed garlic clove and 1½ tsp curry powder, then cook for 2 minutes. Stir in 300ml vegetable stock or water and a 400g tin of drained and rinsed chickpeas, reserving 2 tbsp. Simmer for 10 minutes, mashing lightly until thickened. Tear 300g naan bread into pieces and drizzle with veg oil. Spread over a baking tray, then bake for 10 minutes until crisp. Heat 1½ tsp ghee in a frying pan, add the reserved 2 tbsp chickpeas and fry until crisp…

Bundles of British asparagus in the shops are a glorious sign of spring. I love this vegetable for its versatility ROAST To make chilli roast asparagus, heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Toss 450g asparagus in 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil and spread over a baking sheet. Sprinkle with ½ tsp salt and ¼ tsp chilli flakes, then roast for 10-15 minutes until tender. BAKE To make a tart, heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Lay a sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry on a baking sheet and spread with 2 tbsp dijon mustard. Arrange 450g asparagus on top, then crumble over 75g soft goat’s cheese. Season, drizzle with olive oil, then bake for 20-25 minutes until the pastry is crisp. IN SOUP Fry a chopped leek in…

1 CITRUS ZEST & JUICE A bit of acidity adds a freshness and brings out other flavours. A touch of lemon juice and/or zest works with just about everything – on chicken, fish or pasta and in dressings, but try other citrus as well: lime in Southeast Asian and South American dishes, or orange with sweeter vegetables, such as beetroot and squash. Mix citrus zest with garlic and chopped parsley (or coriander) to make a gremolata for sprinkling over roast/braised meat. 2 CHILLI The fruity heat of finely chopped fresh red or green chilli is great for adding extra pep. Sprinkle over salads, meat and fish for flavour and colour, or mix into dressings and sauces. Go easy so the heat doesn’t dominate. Use crushed dried chilli flakes (sparingly) in…

Sleek and silver, these tiny relatives of herring and sardines are an often overlooked seasonal treat. There are only a few weeks to go before they disappear for a while, so now’s your last chance to get hold of some and enjoy them. WHAT TO LOOK FOR Sprats have a delicate texture and taste and aren’t overly ‘fishy’. They are oil-rich and packed full of good-for-you omega 3 fatty acids so, if you can face a little bit of bone, they are worth trying. A fresh sprat will have bright beady eyes and a firm, stiff body, indicating freshness. Like other oily fish they are at their best when very fresh as they don’t store well. Store in a refrigerator with ice blocks, if possible, to keep the fish very…

Super-savoury macaroni cheese with Marmite crumb topping SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 15 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Gruyère cheese isn’t vegetarian so substitute vegetarian emmental cheese if necessary – and check your cheddar is vegetarian too. • 300g macaroni pasta • 30g butter • 30g plain flour • 600ml whole milk • 3 tsp Marmite • ½ tsp dijon mustard • 75g mature cheddar, grated • 75g gruyère, grated (see tip) • 1 slice toast • Small handful roughly chopped fresh parsley (optional) 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/gas 6. Cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water for 8-10 minutes until almost cooked. Drain, reserving 2 tbsp cooking water. Return the pasta to the pan and stir in the reserved water. Set…

Chef Tong Chee Hwee has worked in restaurants since he was 18, launching his career in Singapore. He moved to London in 2001 to become executive head chef at Hakkasan, which was about to open, and within a year of the restaurant’s launch it won its first Michelin star – the first Chinese restaurant to be awarded the accolade. It still retains that star. Chef Tong now heads up all the Chinese restaurants in Hakkasan Group – in the UK, Europe, Middle East, Asia and the USA – as well Yauatcha in London’s Soho, which specialises in contemporary dim sum.…

HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste experts and we test without packaging, so our tasters don’t know who produced each product or how much it costs. To prevent one tester influencing another, the panel aren’t allowed to confer during the tests, so the results here are unbiased. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR We wanted figurines with a cute look and artistic flair. To win top marks the chocolate had to be suitably thick with a creamy cocoa taste. Anything grainy, bland or cloying got the thumbs down. FOIL-WRAPPED WINNER Lindt Gold Bunny, £2.50 for 100g, major retailers Classic, clean design. Chocolate has well judged thickness, a good snap and tastes rich and creamy. RUNNER-UP Moser Roth Chocolate Bunny, 99p for 100g, Aldi Cute appearance, with thinner chocolate that melts in…

LUNCH + CULTURE Rijks restaurant ( rijksrestaurant.nl ) This Michelin-starred restaurant uses mostly local ingredients to offer a modern take on traditional Dutch dishes. Combine the excellent three-course lunch (€42) with a visit to the Rijksmuseum for the ultimate city experience. DINNER + VIEWS &Moshik ( moshikrestaurant.com ) The main ingredients of chef Moshik Roth’s experimental dishes are memories and emotions: his ‘inspiration’ menu (€145) is testament to his imagination. The food at this high-end dockside restaurant is sublime, and it comes with beautiful views. DRINKS + CANALS Café Het Papeneiland ( papeneiland.nl ) A real-deal brown bar with authentically Amsterdam snacks (including cheese, sausage and appeltaart), this picturesque place gets extra points for its corner location, right where two of the prettiest grachten…

Cheesecake brownies MAKES 20. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 25 MIN, PLUS SETTING MAKE AHEAD The brownies will keep in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving. • 150g unsalted butter • 200g dark chocolate, broken into chunks • 310g golden caster sugar • 4 medium free-range eggs • 2 tsp vanilla extract • 100g plain flour • 6 digestive biscuits or Hobnobs, broken into small chunks • 180g full-fat cream cheese (we used Philadelphia) YOU’LL ALSO NEED… • 20cm square cake tin, greased and lined with non-stick baking paper 1 Heat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/ gas 4. Melt the butter, chocolate and 250g of the sugar in a medium-large saucepan, stirring occasionally, until the chocolate and butter…

SERVES 1. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN Put 120ml whole milk in a small pan with 80g sustainable smoked haddock fillet. Cover with a lid and poach over a low heat for 5 minutes until just cooked through. While the fish poaches, whisk 1 tbsp plain flour with 2 large free-range eggs, 2 tbsp crème fraîche and 2 tbsp freshly grated parmesan until smooth. Scoop the fish out of the pan and set aside, then whisk the poaching liquid into the egg mixture until smooth. Heat a knob of butter in a non-stick, heavy-based frying pan (about 25cm) and, once foaming, pour in the egg mixture. Cook for 8 minutes, swirling the pan to cook evenly. Once the omelette is almost cooked, scatter over chopped chives, then flake in the haddock.…

A FEAST FOR THE MIND The British Library’s second annual Food Season kicks off this month, with talks and workshops led by leading food writers, historians and chefs. What’s on the menu? Yotam Ottolenghi will discuss the impact of our upbringing and genes on enjoyment of food with writer Bee Wilson and Professor of Genetics Tim Spector; Niki Segnit, author of The Flavour Thesaurus, and food writer Felicity Cloake reveal the secrets to writing a winning recipe; Nigella Lawson muses on the importance of storytelling in cookery books; and Joanne Harris, author of Chocolat, considers the sensual role of food in fiction. There’s also the chance to listen in on BBC Radio 4’s The Kitchen Cabinet, presented by Jay Rayner, and take part in a Wikipedia editing marathon to improve…

A Cotswolds supermarket has become the first major food retailer in the UK to require suppliers to provide full information on the provenance of their ingredients. Midcounties Co-operative in Bourton-on-the-Water, Gloucestershire de-listed any brands in the store’s Best of our Counties range that chose not to have their supply chain published. Shoppers can scan QR codes on the range to find out the producer’s location, sustainable and ethical policies, and who they buy from and sell to. This technology is provided by consumer empowerment initiative Happerley, who audit, certify and publish food and drink supply chains. The scheme will soon be rolled out at more Midcounties Co-operative stores. Not local to you? Happerley’s free app lists restaurants, small producers and retailers across the British Isles, and you can search by…

1 The bacteria in your gut outnumber the cells of your body by 2 to 1. True or false? 2 In the 16th and 17th century, potatoes were used to cure... a) Stomach ache b) Warts c) Baldness 3 Is it true children get hyperactive after consuming sugary treats? 4 Fermented drinks such as kombucha are made using a SCOBY. But what does SCOBY stand for? 5 What did 16th-century theologians call ‘the bitter invention of Satan’? a) Absinthe c) Coffee b)Watney’s Pale Ale 6 Name the part of a knife blade that extends through the handle? 7 How long does it take an intensively farmed chicken to grow to full size? 8 How long does it take for a native oyster (Ostrea edulis) to reach maturity? 9 Which of…

PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST A few more of our favourite (Easter) things… THE “AHHH” MOMENT This hollow milk chocolate chick with eggs is hand-painted by artist turned chocolatier Julie Devonald. £12.95 for 80g, thechocolatelibertine.co.uk THE FREE-FROM OPTION Buttermilk’s dairy-free, gluten-free, vegan Easter egg, with nuggets of ‘honeycomb’, mimics milk chocolate well. It’s a bit sweet, but if you can’t eat dairy and miss that milkchoc fix, it’s a great buy. £5.99 for 185g, Sainsbury’s THE DAINTY DOZEN Twelve bite-size chocolate egglets in a mix of flavours including hazelnut praline, salted caramel cream and vanilla. The box is compostable too. What good eggs! £10 for 145g, Hotel Chocolat SOMETHING DIFFERENT… Chef Francesco Mazzei (p31) talks about the traditional Easter Italian light-as-a-feather bread, colomba di Pasqua, which means ‘Easter dove’ – reflected in…

KEFIR GOES MAINSTREAM If you haven’t heard of it yet, kefir is a sharp but creamy yogurt-like drink full of the good probiotic bacteria reported to be excellent for gut health. Marks & Spencer have launched their own version, complete with 14 live cultures (impressive, no?). £1.70 for 125ml, £2.25 for 500ml, in natural or cherry flavours PLANT POWER Look out for these excellent little vegan pastry pies filled with savoury jackfruit (the magic fruit that’s almost meaty in texture). Hoisin sauce adds tang, while carrot and peppers add crunch. £5.99 for two (287g), Waitrose ADDICTION ALERT Who doesn’t love a wood-fired pizza? These new beauties from the Co-op just need a blast in the oven to crisp up the crust and melt the cheese. They’re all great, but the…

The food trends everyone was buzzing about SUSHI Yo! Sushi opened its first branch in London in 1997. By 1999, raw fish was going mainstream and M&S rolled it out across its stores. COSMOPOLITANS Carrie Bradshaw’s favourite cocktail became a Friday-night staple after making its first Sex and the City appearance in 1999. TRIPLE-COOKED CHIPS On the menu at The Fat Duck since the mid-Nineties. By 1999, these golden wonders were widely imitated at gastropubs around the country. FUSION FOOD was big news. One of the most popular mash-ups was Asian-Latin, as typified by one of the year’s biggest openings, Asia de Cuba on London’s St Martin’s Lane, which recently closed its doors.…

THE WELCOME BRUNCH “In Italy we celebrate Easter on the Monday, gathering everyone in the family for a big day of feasting. Back home in Calabria, we’re lucky to have warm weather by Easter, so it’s usually a whole day of eating and drinking al fresco. We might start at 11am – it’s like a brunch for us – then we’ll carry on throughout the afternoon, with more friends joining as we go. It’s a time of drawn-out celebration.” CHEF FRANCESCO MAZZEI Asparagus with eggs, sun-blush tomatoes, black olives & baked ricotta SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN TIME 2½ HOURS, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN “This asparagus with eggs is a great way to start a day of feasting, combining beautiful seasonal asparagus with the classic Italian flavours of…

PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE “This recipe, the whole fish roasted with vegetable crisps and paired with colourful spring veg, is a showstopper. It’s ideal if you fancy a change from the traditional spring lamb – just a few minutes of preparation and you’ll be creating a wonderful feast for the senses.” RAYMOND BLANC Whole roast salmon with braised lettuce and spring vegetables SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 20-25 MIN, OVEN TIME 40 MIN MAKE AHEAD Prepare the recipe to the end of step 2 up to 8 hours ahead and keep covered in the fridge. Complete from step 3. FOOD TEAM’S TIPS Use a mandoline to cut the vegetables, or slice as thinly as possible using a sharp knife (they won’t get quite as crisp…

RECIPE: FERGUS JACKSON. PORTRAIT: JOE WOODHOUSE. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: TARA FISHER.FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: WEI TANG. HOME ECONOMIST: GEMMA STAPLE “Our bakery, Brick House, is known for its sourdough, using slow fermentation to build flavour and texture. Even if we’re adding yeast, we always pre-ferment a portion of the dough, as we do with this new take on the traditional hot cross bun. The dough takes its cues from a Provençal bread called gibassier and is spiked with orange and aniseed, as well as the usual dried fruit. It’s then shaped as a loaf, rather than individual buns. With its eye-catching sticky glaze, it’s a fine twist on the Easter tradition.” FERGUS JACKSON, HEAD BAKER, BRICK HOUSE BAKERY Orange & anise hot cross bun loaves MAKES 2 X 650G LOAVES.…

Rum and salted caramel brownie pudding PHOTOGRAPHS: MAJA SMEND, MAXINE KIRSTY SAPSFORD. FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN MAKE AHEAD Make the caramel sauce up to 2 weeks ahead and store in a sterilised jar in the fridge. Warm through to serve. PAUL’S TIP Don’t overcook the pudding – the middle should be soft, oozy and molten. • 100g unsalted butter, plus extra for greasing • 250g golden caster sugar (Paul uses Billington’s) • 75ml golden syrup • 275g dark chocolate (Paul uses Guittard 72 per cent) • 4 medium free-range eggs • 70g plain flour FOR THE RUM CARAMEL SAUCE • 110g unsalted butter • 100g light muscovado sugar (Paul uses Billington’s) • 1 level tsp Maldon sea…

THE BARGAIN WHITE Exquisite Collection Sauvignon Blanc 2018, Leyda Valley, Chile (£5.49, Aldi) With its tangy grapefruit and pineapple flavours, this zingy young sauv blanc is a tastebud-tingling aperitif. It pairs with asparagus too. THE SPLASH-OUT BOTTLE Esprit de Chablis Premier Cru 2016, Burgundy, France (£21.99, Waitrose) From cooler northern Burgundy, a fresh chablis tasting of oranges and apples but with a long, rounded finish. A serious treat with salmon over Easter. THE BARGAIN RED Gable & Grace Shiraz Mourvèdre 2017, Western Cape, South Africa (£7.99, down to £5.99 until 9 April, Waitrose) Hurry to buy this easy-going, ripe Cape red while it’s on a hot offer. The soft black cherry fruit and peppery finish make it a winner with pork chops or steak. THE ONE FOR EASTER LAMB Merinas…

Less is more when it comes to asparagus, so keep it simple: • For a wonderful green salad, tumble freshly cooked asparagus spears with peas, broad beans, spring onions, mint and some crispy bacon, then trickle over a mustardy dressing. • Blanch your asparagus spears, then fry them in butter with garlic, sliced chorizo and finely grated lemon zest. Serve them as they are with good bread or as a side dish with seared scallops or grilled fish. • Try this quick asparagus and noodle salad: use a potato peeler to shave lengths of raw asparagus into a bowl. Add finely grated ginger, soy, chilli, toasted sesame oil, toasted sunflower seeds and a whisper of garlic. Throw in a handful of cooked noodles and combine.…

Season’s eatings ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES What’s at its best right now – and why it’s so good for you SPRING GREENS These shamrock-green, silky leaves are related to cabbages and brussels sprouts, but lack their firm heart. They’re utterly lovely and worth consuming in quantity – they have a string of health benefits including plentiful vitamins K, A and C and manganese, plus useful amounts of calcium and fibre. HOW TO ENJOY Steam or blanch the leaves in boiling water, sliced or whole, then show them some love. Toss with butter, olive oil or a robust anchovy and garlic dressing, then tuck in. Or accessorise with sautéed potatoes and crown with a fried egg. WHAT WE REALLY, REALLY WANT... Nutrition lessons in schools please Could nutrition education be just as…

Warm za’atar-spiced cauliflower, red onion and rice salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN, OVEN TIME 35 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP Swap the rice for mixed grains and add a handful of toasted nuts if you like. • 400g carrots, cut into chunks (or 400g prepared butternut squash) • 1 large red onion, cut into wedges • 1½ tbsp olive oil • 2 tbsp za’atar spice mix (from most supermarkets and Ocado) – or use 1 tbsp Moroccan spice blend • 1 cauliflower, separated into florets, small leaves reserved • 2 x 250g packs microwaveable rice • 1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses • Large handful soft green herbs, chopped (we used parsley, mint and dill) • 125g pomegranate seeds • Finely grated zest and juice…

RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK.FOOD STYLING: LUCY JESSOP. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Roast squash, freekeh and feta salad SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 40 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP For extra tang, add 4 sliced preserved lemons (pith discarded) or a squeeze of lemon juice to the dressing. • 1 butternut squash (about 1.2kg), cut into 2.5cm thick wedges, then halved or cut into 10cm lengths • 4 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle • 50g walnut halves • 50g pitted medjool dates, roughly chopped • 50g mixed fresh herbs (such as parsley, mint, coriander and dill), ⅓ chopped, the rest leaves picked • 250g pouch cooked freekeh (we used Merchant Gourmet) • 1 gem lettuce, cut into thin wedges • 1 cucumber, peeled, halved lengthways, deseeded,…

RECIPE: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPH: CLAIRE WINFIELD.FOOD STYLING: JEN BEDLOE. STYLING: WEI TANG Leek & bacon flamiche SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20-25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP We used Northern Dough Co frozen pizza dough, from Sainsbury’s, Waitrose and Ocado, but you can use a ready-made pizza base. Or, if you prefer to make your own, search ‘pizza dough’ at deliciousmagazine.co.uk. • 80g smoked bacon lardons • 1 large leek, thinly sliced • 1 fresh rosemary sprig, leaves stripped and chopped • 1 fresh thyme sprig, leaves stripped • 1 medium free-range egg • 75g crème fraîche • 1 tsp dijon mustard • 220g ball fresh pizza dough, defrosted according to pack instructions (see tip) • Plain flour for dusting • Mixed salad leaves to serve 1 Heat…

Anew way of thinking is gathering momentum. According to some scientists and nutrition experts, there’s more to losing and gaining weight – and staying healthy – than simple numbers. Emerging evidence suggests not all calories are created equal as far as our metabolism is concerned. In other words, certain foods are more likely to cause weight gain than others, even if they contain the same number of calories. What’s more, some experts in the treatment of obesity now believe that calorie-counting is an outdated approach that doesn’t work and overshadows the importance of good nutrition. They point to the growing obesity crisis and rise in weight-related health problems that have occurred while calorie-counting has been the cornerstone of official weight management advice. ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES WHAT EXACTLY ARE CALORIES? The…

MEET OUR EXPERTS JEN BEDLOE Food editor SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH Deputy food editor OLIVIA SPURRELL Cookery assistant LUCAS HOLLWEG Chef and food writer THANE PRINCE Food writer, cook and queen of preserving delicious. KITCHEN Find out how to add flavour without salt, cook a perfect steak and make a glossy chocolate ganache CHEF’S STEP BY STEP Make the melt-in-the-mouth venison puffs from Yauatcha restaurant GAME CHANGER Raise the flavour of your food to another level with the magic of Marmite…

It’s the crowning glory of many a cake or tart, and knowing how to make a smooth, rich ganache is a skill worth mastering WHAT IS GANACHE? It’s a blend of chocolate and cream in which the cocoa butter and milk fat combine with the water from the cream to form an emulsion. In place of cream, milk, water or fruit juice can be used. You can flavour ganache by infusing the liquid with spices, zest, herbs, vanilla or tea leaves. Ganache has a variety of uses (see right) and needs to be eaten within a few days. INGREDIENTS • 150g dark chocolate (70 per cent cocoa content) • 150ml whipping cream 1 Break up the chocolate and put in a heatproof bowl. 2 In a pan, bring the cream…

Sometimes the simplest recipes are the trickiest to master. Follow these simple rules to steak perfection 1 Take the steak out of the fridge one hour before cooking to let it get to room temperature. 2 Just before cooking, rub with oil, then season generously with salt and pepper. 3 Get your heavy-based frying pan searing hot – and it should be clean and dry. 4 Fat equals flavour: if cooking sirloin or rump, use tongs to hold the steak on its side with the fat touching the pan for a few seconds before cooking it flat. If cooking rib-eye, put it on the flat side and press the centre to render the fat in the eye of the steak. 5 For an average steak, cook for about 2 minutes…

ADD a tablespoon of Marmite to a simple white bread mix, along with freshly grated cheddar STIR into warm pasta with a raw egg yolk for a rich, creamy, speedy veggie carbonara SPREAD over hot buttery toast soldiers for dipping into a soft-boiled egg with softened butter and rub over MIX chicken before roasting, basting with the juices for crisp golden skin DAB a little over puff pastry before filling with sausagemeat and rolling for sausage rolls…

Don’t discard the fried shallot (step 1). When completely cool, store the leftover oil and shallot separately in airtight containers or jars. Use leftover oil for stir-fries and sprinkle crispy shallots over salads or fried rice. Use within a month. For the dough, use an oil with a neutral flavour, such as vegetable oil. Olive oil will also work but may impart its flavour to the finished puffs. Make sure the two types of dough are the same temperature before combining them in step 10, otherwise the finished pastry may not have the required flaky layers. Overworking (or kneading) the pastry while you’re working with it will destroy the layers and will develop the gluten, resulting in tough pastry. Brushing the venison puffs twice (step 14) will guarantee a deep…

TORTELLINI AT MIDNIGHT Emiko Davies is a brilliant storyteller (and cook). Her latest book reaches back through the decades, tracing earlier generations of her Italian husband’s family. The handed-down recipes from Taranto in the south to Tuscany and Turin in the far north are hunger-inducing, and the book is an unputdownable read. Quadrille £26 TU CASA MI CASA: MEXICAN RECIPES FOR THE HOME COOK Author Enrique Olvera is a revered Mexican chef and restaurateur, but this recipe collection is all about traditional Mexican home-cooking – and the dishes are stunning, as well as (mostly) easy to prepare. Plenty of background about ingredients, regional dishes and food history too. Phaidon £29.95 (flexibound) BAZAAR: VIBRANT VEGETARIAN RECIPES Although Sabrina Ghayour’s new book is all veggie, she says: “I’ve written this book with…

TOP LAYER Finn (4 individual rounds: 1 for the cake and 3 others to serve) This wonderful cheese has a soft, double cream-like texture. It tastes lactic and velvety when it’s young, but as it matures it develops complex walnut and mushroom flavours. SECOND TIER Sheep rustler A semi-hard ewe’s milk cheese with a medium, mellow flavour that’s slightly nutty with a hint of caramel. THIRD TIER Single gloucester A traditional cheese, handmade using the milk of Gloucester cows. Mild, creamy and slightly lactic in flavour, it’s best eaten young. BASE LAYER Shropshire blue (2kg) A smooth-textured blue cheese with a rich, rounded flavour and distinctive blue veining throughout the russet interior. WHERE TO BUY… You can buy the whole cheeses to make up this spectacular cheese cake as a…

Spring on the farm Tick off your dream Easter Sunday activity in the idyllic surrounds of Daylesford farm in Gloucestershire, whether it’s decorating eggs, making floral crowns and Easter bonnets or meeting lambs. There are other events during the month to welcome spring, including a lambing tour on 13 April and a beginner’s floristry workshop on 25 April. Easter Sunday at Daylesford Farm, 21 April, £5 (with proceeds to a local children’s charity), other events vary; see daylesford.com/events Unmissable adventure RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: SOPHIE AUSTEN-SMITH. RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE.ADDITIONAL WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. PHOTOGRAPHS: ANDREW MONTGOMERY, ROB GREIG, MAJA SMEND, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES The phrase ‘immersive experience’ is overused and often inaccurate, but dining theatre company Gingerline has concocted a spectacular one called The Grand Expedition. It takes…

1452 Leonardo da Vinci was born on 15 April. Few people know that 1850 San Francisco was incorporated as a city on 15 April. Many of the 35,000 population were immigrants who had come for the Gold Rush – all bringing different cuisines to this melting pot of a metropolis. 1948 The World Health Organization was established on 7 April. The global body helped eradicate smallpox and continues to work to improve nutrition and food security worldwide. 1988 McDonald’s revealed it would open 20 restaurants across Moscow on 29 April. The signature burger, the Big Mac, was rebranded the Bolshoi Mak (bolshoi meaning ‘big’ in Russian). he was a keen nutritionist, writing: “Do not eat when you have no appetite and dine lightly. Chew well, and whatever you take into…

WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, PHOEBE STONE, HUGH THOMPSON, EMILY BEST.PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES, PATRICIA NIVEN THE PIONEER Vicky Bennison, food writer and creator of Pasta Grannies Vicky’s Pasta Grannies videos, which she posts on YouTube, document Italian women making traditional handmade pasta in their homes. Most of these women are over 65 years old and have been making pasta for decades, rarely with a written recipe to hand. Vicky, who’s based in London and Cingoli in Le Marche in central Italy, had noticed that the pasta skills mastered by older Italian women weren’t being passed down to the younger generation. WHAT DOES PASTA GRANNIES DO? The first ‘pasta granny’ Vicky met was Maria Mulinari, who at 83 was making pasta by hand for a local restaurant. Like many younger Italians, Maria’s family…

Did you know there’s a new photo-sharing app designed solely with food in mind? It’s called Foodim, it’s free and it comes with a special filter to help you take better food photos. You can then share them directly to the social network, whose users include Olia Hercules, Yotam Ottolenghi and Nigella, who was involved in the app’s development. We’ve tested it and we have a few gripes: at present it’s square-format only (no landscape or portrait shots), and it’s hard to find a person’s profile unless you know their exact username (not always obvious) but the developers are hoping to improve that. On the plus side, we like the absence of ads and the chronological timeline, which lets you see what people are posting right now. For now it’s…

EMMA MACKINTOSH creates beautiful wine glasses and goblets inspired by the nature outside her studio in the Lake District delicious. STAR WHERE IT ALL BEGAN When you talk about hot glass you think of a furnace in a factory… I have a small studio and a bench. As soon as you melt glass you have something living: it’s in no way inanimate – you have a connection. That feeling goes into the glass and I hope it translates into people loving what I make and enjoying a drink from it. It’s impossible not to be inspired by nature in the Lakes. My studio looks out on a beck, trees and fields – it’s stunning. I work on my own so I listen to podcasts and occasionally sing along to the…

PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. STYLING: MORAG FARQUHAR This sugar jar belonged to my late grandfather. It was stationed in his kitchen and used mainly for sugar but occasionally for other things like sweets. He lived between Norfolk and Suffolk, and it reminds me of him whenever I look at it. I remember the smells, the times of laughter and joy we had in his kitchen. And now it’s in my kitchen and used for the same purpose – to keep sweets and snacks for my daughters. I love that – It makes me feel as though I’m keeping the memories of grandad alive every time the lid is opened. TOM AIKENS…

Unsurprisingly, Italian-born Francesco comes from a food-loving family, and he made his cooking debut as a lad working in his uncle’s gelateria, which unexpectedly launched his cheffing career. The next step was a job in Rome, then a move to London, where Francesco is now well known for his promotion of southern Italian food and ingredients. He showcases them in his three London restaurants, Sartoria, Radici and Fiume, and appears regularly on BBC shows Saturday Kitchen and MasterChef.…

THE CLASSIC RECIPE Roast potatoes FEATURE AND FOOD STYLING: OLIVIA SPURRELL. PHOTOGRAPHS: CLARE WINFIELD. STYLING: WEI TANG SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 45-55 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP We also tested this version cooked in goose fat, which produced excellent results, but in the spirit of being all-inclusive we decided to give you the veggie version. If you’d like to use goose fat, swap the 75ml vegetable oil for 5 tbsp goose fat from a jar – or saved from a goose roast. YOU WILL NEED… • 75ml vegetable oil (we used Essential Waitrose Vegetable Oil] • 2kg floury potatoes (we recommend maris piper) THE METHOD 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Pour the oil (or goose fat, if you choose to use it; see…

THE SUNSHINE PLATTER SERVES 6 AS A SHARING STARTER. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT MARINATING FOR THE PRUNES Prunes soaked in pedro ximénez sherry Halve 200g pitted prunes and put in a glass or ceramic bowl with 200ml pedro ximénez sherry and leave to marinate at room temperature, ideally overnight, before serving. Sesame straws with hazelnuts and olive oil Heat the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/ gas 7. Unroll a 320g pack ready-rolled shortcrust pastry. Cut into 1cm wide strips, brush with olive oil and sprinkle over some sesame seeds, nigella seeds and finely chopped blanched hazelnuts. Season with sea salt flakes, then bake for 6-8 minutes until crisp and golden brown. You can serve these warm from the oven or at room temperature. Grilled leeks pickled with vinegar and…

COVER RECIPE Double chocolate Easter cake SERVES 12-14. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN TIME 35-45 MIN, PLUS COOLING “Is it possible to have too much chocolate at Easter? The answer is no, which is why this cake is made with white, dark, cocoa powder – and mini eggs! I used kataifi pastry to create a wispy, crunchy nest. You can use shredded wheat cereal instead, but the finished effect will be slightly different.” MAKE AHEAD The assembled, iced cake will keep for 3-4 days in an airtight container. KNOWHOW Greek/Middle Eastern kataifi pastry comes in thin strands that resemble finely shredded filo. Buy online from hellenicgrocery.co.uk. EASTER EGGS: SELFRIDGES SELECTION LITTLE SPECKLED EGGS, £9.99 FOR 350G; DAYLESFORD HAND-PAINTED BIRDS’ EGGSCLUTCH, £25 FOR 300G; HESTON FROM WAITROSE SPECKLED MINI EGGS, £6…

“Writing Taverna was something I’d dreamed of my whole life. I was desperate to record and share the recipes and stories from my childhood. To shout about Cypriot food – what it means to me and why there’s a place for it in everyone’s home — was the reason I wanted to become a food writer. I grew up in north London surrounded by food. Dad’s parents owned a Cypriot taverna and Mum’s folks opened one of the city’s first Cypriot delis. Every weekend and holiday there was a meal or feast to celebrate. I was born above the restaurant and my childhood memories revolve around the place. I recall my paternal yiayia (grandmother) cooking, my bapou (grandad) cleaning the cutlery and glassware and Dad manning the bar. Even now,…

Seventeen years after they started their free-range egg business, John and Eileen Hall still seem genuinely charmed by their chickens. “They’re all such characters,” says John. “When you open the henhouse doors in the morning, they explode out. It’s as if they can’t wait to see what they can find.” The family farm at Cavanagh in Fermanagh, Northern Ireland, lies barely 100 yards from the border with the south. Tucked into the green landscape (Cavanagh means ‘valley among the hills’ in Irish), the place is home to cattle and sheep as well as chickens, though the constant chorus of cackles and clucks leaves little doubt about who rules the roost. There are hens everywhere: spilling out of barns, perched on tree trunks, pecking in the grassy paddocks. The Halls met…

It’s endlessly repeated by doctors, the NHS and countless magazine columns: if you want to be healthy and lose weight, you need to eat a good breakfast. But does the evidence stack up? The latest research published in the BMJ finds no scientific evidence link between eating breakfast and weight loss. Thirteen randomised controlled studies in the US and UK comparing breakfast consumption showed that eating at the beginning of the day doesn’t help weight loss and may actually have the opposite effect. Resting metabolic rate (the rate at which your body burns energy when at complete rest) isn’t affected by skipping breakfast, and compensatory overeating later in the day isn’t enough to make up for the lost calories at breakfast. Breakfast as we know it today – toast with…

RECIPE: KATY MCCLELLAND. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK.FOOD STYLING: LUCY JESSOP. STYLING: VICTORIA ELDRIDGE Pea and frazzled pancetta carbonara SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN • 180g smoked sliced pancetta • 1½ tbsp olive oil • 1 large onion, finely chopped • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped • 300g dried spaghetti or bucatini • 3 medium free-range eggs, lightly beaten • 50g parmesan, finely grated • 185g frozen petits pois, defrosted • A few fresh parsley sprigs, leaves finely chopped 1 Heat the grill to medium-high. Put the pancetta on a baking tray lined with foil, then grill for 2 minutes on each side until golden and crisp. Set aside to cool. 2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a low-medium heat and cook the onion for 8 minutes until…

The master recipe Overnight roast gammon SERVES 6 (WITH LEFTOVERS). HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 13 HOURS 5-10 MIN MAKE AHEAD Start this the night before, then chill before completing the recipe, or put it in the oven first thing in the morning. The cooked, glazed ham will keep for up to 3 days in an airtight container in the fridge. • 2kg British free-range boned and smoked gammon joint • 500ml medium-dry cider • 2 tbsp dijon mustard • 2 tbsp demerara sugar • Watercress to serve FOR THE PARSLEY SAUCE • 150-200ml half-fat crème fraîche • Large handful fresh flatleaf parsley, chopped • 1 tsp English mustard, plus extra to serve 1 Heat the oven to 240°C/220°C fan/ gas 9. Cut 2 sheets of foil, roughly 60cm…

Thai vegetable curry with coconut chilli cauliflower SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN FOOD TEAM’S TIP The roasted cauliflower is like a chunky low-carb rice. Serve it as a side with your favourite chilli or curry for a lighter alternative. • 185g cauliflower, roughly chopped • 1 tsp light olive oil • 1½ tsp Thai spice mix (we used Schwartz Thai 7 Spice seasoning) • 300ml unsweetened coconut milk drink (Plenish or Innocent both taste good) • 350g pack mixed stir-fry vegetables • 2 tsp fish sauce • Finely grated zest and juice 1 large lime • 2 handfuls mixed herbs (or use a mix of coriander and Thai basil/sweet basil) • 80g radishes, sliced 1 Heat the oven to 200°C/180°C fan/ gas 6. Toss the cauliflower with the oil…

Baked coconut tempura vegetables SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 50 MIN, SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 15-25 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT SOAKING “This year marks the 10-year anniversary of us launching our blog (woo hoo!) and starting this journey of cooking and writing recipes together. Our family has grown and we’ve evolved our style over the years, but the essence of our food philosophy remains the same: our recipes are centred around vegetables, plus wholegrains, good fats, natural sweeteners, nuts, seeds, pulses and fruit. We have a positive and relaxed approach to healthy food and we believe that by eating well we can all feel better.”DAVID FRENKIEL & LUISE VINDAHL “Our method is easier and healthier than any deep-fried version and the almond flour and desiccated coconut add a pleasant sweetness…

When the delicious. team test recipes they often debate the best ways to do things, as well as answering questions that arise in the test kitchen. What fish is in season now, and what’s the best way to prepare and eat it? Does it really make a difference if you use salted butter or unsalted butter in a recipe? Why do hot cross buns have crosses on them? It’s the kind of information you won’t find anywhere else, and it will take your knowledge to the next level…

Q Reader Simon Rostron wrote to delicious. asking, “Most baking recipes call for unsalted butter yet often call for salt to be added. Why not simply start with salted butter?” A Using unsalted butter lets you control how much salt you add. The amount of salt in salted butter varies from around 0.5 per cent to more than 3 per cent in some French butters, which makes it hard to judge how much salt you’ve added. Salted butter tends to brown – and burn – more quickly than unsalted, so your tart case or cake could end up darker than you want it. Salt also strengthens the gluten in the flour, which can toughen delicate pastry. In the days before refrigeration, butter was salted to help it keep for longer.…

Cheesecakes are notorious for coming out of the oven looking like the Giant’s Causeway. While cracks don’t affect the flavour, there are things you can do to help keep things smooth. • Don’t overbeat the cheesecake mix – this traps air, causing the cheesecake to rise. As it cools it will shrink and crack. • Don’t bake at too high a temperature as this can cause the outer edge to set much faster than the centre. As the proteins in the cheesecake heat and set, they shrink slightly and pull on the softer, unset middle, causing it to crack. The same thing can happen if your oven heats unevenly. In that case, bake your cheesecake in a water bath, known as a bain-marie (wrap the base of the tin in…

“Be prepared for the magical blend of sweet and savoury in this wonderful recipe” “Pastry puffs are one of the most popular and traditional Cantonese dim sum, from fine-dining restaurants to street food stalls. This venison version, unique to Yauatcha restaurant, is inspired by Asian culinary techniques but has a European twist – venison replaces the traditional pork filling. The meat is marinated in black pepper and char siu barbecue sauce, then wrapped in puff pastry, topped with sesame seeds and baked. The final flavour and texture are superb.” Baked venison puffs MAKES 25-30. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 12-15 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS MARINATING, CHILLING AND RESTING MAKE AHEAD Make the filling up to 2 days ahead and keep covered in the fridge. The…

THE COOKERY SCHOOL RECIPE, FOOD STYLING AND STYLING: ANGELA BOGGIANO. PHOTOGRAPH: CRAIG ROBERTSTON WHERE At The Kitchen, Cheadle Hulme, Manchester (atthekitchen.co.uk) THE COURSE Simple Healthy Suppers (£60 for 3 hours, including tasting the food cooked in the class and drinks) TESTER Lucy Davey THE SETTING Angela Boggiano returned to the North five years ago after many years living in London, where she used to be delicious. magazine’s food director. For Angela, who was born and raised in Manchester, it was a return to her roots. In April last year, she opened her dream cookery school 30 minutes’ drive south of Manchester city centre. THE WORKSTATION The school has been open for less than a year, so the equipment is new and still sparkling – induction hobs and state-of-the-art Fisher &…

How’s your high street? Mine’s looking a bit rough. In the past year we’ve lost an Italian restaurant, a brunch place, a pottery café and a burgers-and-cocktails spot. All were independents. All are now closed down and boarded up. It’s making the main road look a bit like the opening scene of a zombie apocalypse movie. It’s a similar story in cities, towns and villages across the country. Neighbourhood restaurants need our support. But that’s only half the story: we need them, too. ILLUSTRATIONS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES “I mourn their sweet potato fries… But more than that, I miss somewhere that was part of our family life” These restaurants are the soul of a community. They may get our custom, but we get so much more in return. A good neighbourhood…