Table of contents for September/October 2015 in Britain

I’ve been reminded this issue of the vast number of castles we have on our shores, from moated palaces such as Hever Castle and Leeds Castle, which we explore in In England’s Green and Pleasant Land (p6), to the often forgotten fortresses that dot the Welsh landscape in The Iron Ring (p58). Of course in Britain we’re also spoiled with lots of rather splendid stately homes. Ever wondered how these historic houses survive in the 21st century? Then make sure you read Love’s Labour’s Not Lost (p22) to hear from the duchesses that have revived the fortunes of some of our most cherished estates. If you were glued to the screen watching the recent period drama Poldark then you’ll know that the real star of the show was the gorgeous…

NEWS Beneath the White Cliffs of Dover A labyrinth of Second World War tunnels, built underneath the iconic White Cliffs of Dover on the orders of Sir Winston Churchill, is now open to the public after two years of excavation work. Fan Bay Deep Shelter was constructed in the 1940s to prevent German ships from moving freely in the English Channel. It was decommissioned in the 1950s and filled in during the 1970s. Originally carved out of the chalk in just 100 days by Royal Engineers from the 172nd Tunnelling Company, the shelter had five large chambers providing bombproof accommodation. Among historic finds at the site were wartime graffiti and a Unity Pools football coupon – dated 20 February 1943. Specialist guides will lead hard-hat and torch-lit tours deep into…

Pulses may have been set racing by the gripping 18th-century drama Poldark and its lead character, played by British actor Aidan Turner, but one of the biggest stars of the searing BBC remake of the 1970s TV series is undoubtedly Cornwall’s majestic coastline. Based on Winston Graham’s acclaimed novels, the costume drama is a passionate tale of shipwrecks, family ties and lost love, and was filmed largely on location in the breathtaking county of Cornwall, which is home to some of England’s oldest pubs and historic boltholes, not to mention some spectacular vistas. If you’ve been swept away with the romance of Poldark then you may want to pay a visit to the Grade II listed harbour of Charlestown, near St Austell, in south Cornwall, which feels as though it’s…

“There was no impropriety whatsoever in my acquaintance with Miss Keeler,” said John Profumo, the Secretary of State for War, of the showgirl Christine Keeler. Mere months later, however, he was forced to admit to the affair he had lied about to Parliament, inflaming the almighty Cold War scandal that would bring the British Establishment to its knees in 1963. Profumo first set eyes on a topless Keeler on a sultry July evening in 1961. Accompanied by his wife, the actress Valerie Hobson, it was the politician’s first visit to Cliveden, the sumptuous Buckinghamshire home of Viscount William Astor. In the blue and gold panelled dining room that had once graced a Parisian château, a lavish dinner was being held in honour of the President of Pakistan. After the meal,…

At a time when Jacobite support was treasonable, those loyal to the cause would conclude covert meetings by raising their glasses over a finger bowl, signifying allegiance to ‘the King over the Sea’ (James Francis Edward Stuart). As a result, Jacobite drinking paraphernalia that had hidden or coded imagery also sprang up. See, for example, a tray in the West Highland Museum at Fort William. It is covered in seemingly random scrawl until you place a metal cylinder or goblet in its centre, when the likeness of Bonnie Prince Charlie becomes apparent as a reflection.www.westhighlandmuseum.org.uk Other toasting vessels included Amen glasses, inscribed with ‘Amen’ in reference to the conclusion of the Jacobite national anthem, The Origin of our Own. Such glasses often bore a tear-shaped bubble in the stem, symbolising…

1. Chinbowdash (Dorset dialect) A) The tie of the cravat. B) To beat up batter for pudding. C) Pertaining to a puppet show. 2. Griggles (Wiltshire dialect) A) Curls that hang over a woman’s shoulder. B) Small, worthless apples remaining on the tree after the crop has been gathered C) The four of clubs, considered unlucky. 3. Boris-noris (Dorset dialect) A) Touch and go. B) Vigorously – with might and main. C) Careless, reckless, happy-go-lucky. For all the answers, plus more questions on the origins of English words, go to www.britain-magazine. com/ quiz…

The Debs of Bletchley Park by Michael Smith (£9.99, Aurum Press). The unheard story of the ‘Debs’ and the essential role they played in the vital work of ‘Station X’ at the famous spy base. The Story of the Thames by Andrew Sargent (£9.99, Amberley). Fascinating insight into the history of the longest and most famous river in England, which mirrors the story of the capital city it dominates. Stuff Brits Like by Fraser McAlpine (£ 9.99, Nicholas Brealey Publishing). A witty guide to the quirks of Britain and the British, which puts forward some interesting observations on the nation’s psyche. Pleasures of the Table: A Literary Anthology by Christina Hardyment (£20, The British Library). An ode to food from some of the world’s greatest writers and poets. The Lost…

THE LOST GARDENS OF HELIGAN This collection of unusual plants, some of which date from 1850, offers a fascinating insight into the horticultural habits of the Victorians. Its name comes from the fact the gardens – which were once a Georgian pleasure garden – fell into decline for several decades before being restored to beautiful effect.www.heligan.com THE OLD QUAY HOUSE This luxury boutique hotel has an enviable location, overlooking the busy harbour in Fowey.www.theoldquayhouse.com HALZEPHRON HOUSE Surrounded by National Trust land, this stunningly restored house, which can be hired as a whole or on a B&B basis has played host to AA Milne, JM Barrie and Arthur Conan Doyle.www.halzephronhouse.co.uk THE FERRYBOAT INN This pub, which dates back 300 years, lies on the seafront of the North Helford Passage. Now in…

STAY AT CLIVEDEN Choose between Spring Cottage, a luxury three-bedroom 18th-century hideaway that can accommodate up to eight guests, or rooms and suites in the main house. The Inchiquin Suite, overlooking the Grand Drive, Fountain of Love and gardens, is the most luxurious and is furnished in a traditional style. To really feel part of the Cliveden Set you can even opt for exclusive use of the house and grounds but it doesn't come cheap.www.clivedenhouse.co.uk ESTATE AND GARDENS The house is set on a chalk cliff amid 376 acres of Grade I listed formal gardens and woodlands managed by the National Trust. Its celebrated parterre affords views over the River Thames. The gardens and woodland are open from mid February until the end of the year and the fee of…

OUR FAVOURITE LETTER AFTER A FASHION Thank you for the article on British fashion in July 2015 (Volume 83 Issue 3). I visited Kensington Palace while I was in London in April (I had hoped to catch a glimpse of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, but no such luck) and, along with the excellent displays of Queen Victoria’s possessions, I saw the dress exhibit mentioned in the article. I must admit, however, that the most fascinating outfits for me were not those of the Queen or even Princess Diana, but of Princess Margaret. In the 1950s and 1960s she was as much a “standard bearer in British style” as Princess Diana was in the 1980s. It wouldn’t be hard to imagine some of her iconic looks coming back into…

GETTING THERE Many of Kent’s towns can be reached by train from London St Pancras station (Rochester 40 minutes; Faversham 1 hour; Margate 1.5 hours; Dover 1 hour). The western half of the county is served by London Victoria. www.trainline.com LEEDS CASTLE Leeds Castle, which was once used as a palace by King Henry VIII and Catherine of Aragon, is open year-round and there are regular events held across its 500 acres – including falconry displays – or you can lose yourself in the estate’s magnificent maze. The nearest train station is Bearsted and a shuttle bus runs from here to the castle from April to September. www.leeds-castle.com BATTLE OF BRITAIN MEMORIAL In the 75th anniversary year since the Battle of Britain, a visit to this free memorial, which is…

The stately homes of England How beautiful they stand! To prove the upper classes Have still the upper hand How wonderful that many of Britain’s glorious stately homes still survive in the 21st century for everyone to enjoy. They were even immortalised in verse by that most English of gentlemen, Noel Coward, in 1929, who unashamedly changed part of an earlier poem, The Homes of England, writing: “The stately homes of England, how beautiful they stand, to prove the upper classes, have still the upper hand.” Composed in 1827 by Felicia Hemans, who coined the term ‘stately home’, the third and fourth lines originally read: “Amidst their tall ancestral trees, o’er all the pleasant land.” By 1929, however, the power and wealth of the upper classes, owners of the great…

The plot and cast are extraordinary: a foreigner, 52nd in line to the throne, is made King of Great Britain and Ireland, while a King over the Sea and a Bonnie Prince, who seek to regain the Crown, have their hopes dashed on a Scottish moor by a blue-blooded butcher. Add disguises, scheming and skirling bagpipes: if William Shakespeare had been around to witness the Jacobite rebellions of 1715 and 1745, he would surely have found material for a great tragedy. This year marks the 300th anniversary of the rising known as ‘the Fifteen’ (1715–16), a dramatic outburst of Jacobite rebellion that had been brewing ever since the Glorious Revolution (1688–89) had ousted Roman Catholic King James II from the throne in favour of his daughter, Mary, and her husband,…

Ever since the Brighton Belle – the world’s most famous electric train, complete with Art-Deco styling and Pullman carriages – began bringing day trippers from London to the town in the 1930s, Brighton’s transformation from a quaint fishing village to a bustling holiday destination has been complete. Today it is the epitome of a traditional British seaside town – think lazy afternoons dozing on deckchairs, rolling up your trouser legs for a spot of paddling in the sea before eating fish and chips on the pebbles. The Victorian pier is a must for any visit, with its arcade machines, cheeky carnival cutouts and kiosks selling sticks of rock. Although Brighton didn’t attract the masses until much later, it was the arrival of the Prince Regent, who came here in the…

The ‘West Country’ is an informal term for an area of south-west England comprising the counties of Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset, Gloucestershire and Wiltshire. It is a predominantly rural region, surviving on tourism, dairy farming and agriculture. Famous for its cider, clotted cream and pasties, the area boasts gorgeous pastures in Exmoor, Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor. Famous inhabitants include writers, such as Thomas Hardy and Samuel Taylor Coleridge, and eminent Britons Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Christopher Wren and Sir Walter Raleigh. In the Victorian glossaries of the county dialects you’ll find unique words and phrases for some of the oddest customs and traditions in this part of rural England. In Cornwall there is ‘boossenning’ in the parish of Altarnun, where villagers ‘cured’ mental illness by placing the patient on the…