Table of contents for No 30-3 in Australian Stitches

V1461: Fitted, lined dress (cut on crosswise grain) has front, back and sleeve pleats, stitched hem, and invisible back zipper. Purchased trim. Sew in cotton plaids, gabardine, lightweight woolens, Ponte knit. Misses’/Misses’ Petite sizes: 6 – 22. V1462: Loose-fitting shirt has collar, collar band, concealed button closing, sleeves with pleats, placket and button cuffs, and shaped hemline. Three variations. Camisole included. Sew in crepe de chine, chiffon, charmeuse, lightweight broadcloth. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22.…

EARRINGS ARE ORNATE AGAIN … GO FOR BEJEWELLED TEARDROPS OR HOOPS. Roberta Chiarella earrings, at www.robertachiarella.com A RUNAWAY HIT IN THE USA, THE PONCHO IS THE HOTTEST KNIT LOOK NOW, IN EASY SHAPES AND SUBDUED, SOPHISTICATED SHADES. McCall’s M7255 ‘Easy’ poncho. A SQUASHY ‘NEWSBOY’ CAP AND A RIBBED TURTLENECK IS A HEAD-TURNING LOOK OF THE SEASON. Vogue V9044 Patricia Underwood cap. FRINGE IS EVERYWHERE, BUT BEST IN A SUEDE BAG. McCall’s M7264 waist purse with convertible strap. A LONGLINE FEATHERY FAUX-FUR GILET IS THE LATEST VEST LOOK AND SURPRISINGLY FLATTERS A RANGE OF FIGURES. Save it from looking too ‘Sonny & Cher’ by layering it over sleek, simple, dark coloured separates. It can even update your basic sweater and jeans in a flash. Left inset: McCall’s M7257 hooded gilet vest.…

K4137 KWIKSTART® LEARN-TO-SEW: Pull-on skirts have separate waist casing with elastic and narrow hems in two lengths, and in flared (main image) or A-line (inset) shapes. Skirts are very easy to make and have special easy-to-follow instructions. Designed for stretch knits only with 25% stretch across the grain, such as jersey, interlock, matt jersey, Ponte knits. Misses’ sizes: XS−S−M−L−XL. www. kwiksew .com…

6394 ‘EASY’: You get a variety of sleeve lengths, hem lengths, and both classic and stand collars with this easy button-front pattern, for many different shirt looks! Sew in cotton/cotton blends, laundered cottons, chambray, silks and silk types, charmeuse, jacquards, voile, soft lightweight linen or linen blends. Misses’ six sizes in one: 8 – 18. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

M7195: Loose-fitting, pullover tops in four versions have neck and sleeve bands, and sleeve length/contrast sleeve or hemline variations. Designed for medium-weight woven fabrics, such as challis, crepes or charmeuse, with edgings/cuffs in ribbed knit. M7200: Loose-fitting, unlined jackets in four versions have front band extending into standing back collar, self-lined yoke back, and side-back seams. Designed for medium-weight woven fabrics, such as challis crepes gabardine or wool blends Both styles this page Misses' sizes: XS (4-6) − XXL (24-26) www.mccallpattern.com…

This method is for natural fibres only. It does not work with polyester.* Straight grain stays The most commonly used method for taming necklines on crossover tops is to ‘stay’ the edge with a lightweight fabric strip. This not only prevents you from inadvertently stretching the edge during the construction and pressing but it can also be used to shape the edge to the contours of the body so the neckline will stay in place even during movement. In couture, the stay itself is a narrow strip of lightweight material; generally it is a strip of the selvedge of silk organza, silk chiffon or China silk. In ready-to-wear, it is more likely to be rayon seam binding. On the crossover top, this style of neckline needs to be held in…

When it comes to fashion, how does one distinguish a winner from an also-ran? An up-and-comer from a has-been? The directions that matter from mere trends? Fear not! Here’s your quick and easy cheat sheet to the new season … Note: More fashion news that counts in our ‘Fashion Flash’ and in the Pattern Trends pages throughout this issue. • Tailoring softens up this year, with the classic blazer replaced with a feminine wrap jacket or coat, which adds a kind womanly curve to all those menswear-inspired looks. • Just as with jackets, pants loosen up, in slouchier, wider-legged menswear-styled lines … softer, drape-y fabrics and slicker, simpler cuts are the feminising factor. • Forsake black for rich, offbeat 70’s shades − teal, chocolate, camel, burgundy, cognac, amber, wine and…

Styling guidelines It is important to avoid hipsters. This also includes body-hugging silhouettes that cling to all the curves of the figure. Garments that cling, regardless if you have smaller bits above will emphasise the saddlebags making them appear larger than they actually are. You will also find that bias-cut garments generally emphasise the body’s silhouette therefore do not make suitable garments for women with saddlebags. On occasions some bias-cut garments will work, however this is related to fabric rather than the style – some bias-cut fabrics drape without clinging. See photos 1 and 2. The best design will be one that skims rather than clings to the body. In trousers this means choosing a style with soft waistline fullness moving into a trouser leg that is straight off the…

How to use Hand Dye 1. Weigh dry fabric; wash thoroughly (for new fabric or items warm wash with washing powder to remove any dressing). Leave damp. 2. Using rubber gloves, dissolve the dye in 500ml boiling water. Stir in 5Tblespn (250g) of salt. Continue stirring until salt dissolves. 3. Fill bowl, bucket or stainless steel sink with approximately 6 litres hottest tap water. 4. Add dye and salt mixture. Stir well. 5. Submerge the fabric in the dye bath. 6. Stir constantly for 15mins, then stir regularly for 45mins. 7. Rinse fabric in cold water until the water runs clear. Hand wash in warm water and dry away from direct heat and sunlight. Construction • Stitch the side seams. • Cut 2 x 4cm (1½in) wide bias strips. Fold…

While the finish of velvet appeals to most, the sewing and styling is complicated by the raised and cut pile surface. The degree of difficulty is directly related to the height and density of the pile and the fibre content of the fabric. Velour This is a plush stretch fabric with a short thick all-over pile and a deep lustre. This fabric’s appearance will vary depending upon the fibre content. It often has a high polyester content, hence it is easy to maintain and holds its original shape well. It is a suitable fabric for relaxed dressing and loungewear. At times it is found in after-five garments depending on the current fashion trend. Velveteen Velveteen is differentiated from velvet by it fibre content and the length of its pile. This…

HOW TO CHOOSE FABRICS – 350 Fabric Swatches and Combinations to Inspire Your Sewing Projects By Sophie Helene If you love fabric you’ll love this fantastic guide to choosing and combining fabrics, trims and notions for sewers, dressmakers and quilters. Professional colourist Sophie Helene shares with you her expertise through the 50 different fabric and trim combinations featured in the book, demonstrating which prints and colours work well together. There are instructions to create 20 stunning home decor projects − including curtains, cushions and bags to help you explore the fabric combination suggestions. A comprehensive fabric directory of 300 different fabric swatches, provides an incredibly useful resource for every sewer. RRP: $34.99 ISBN: 978-1-4463-0493-8 Publisher: David & Charles WRAPPED IN COLOUR – 30 shawls to knit By Koigu Wool Designs,…

The method that we know so well is of a hill (rounded edge) and valley (like an armhole or neckline) which would need to be clipped in one area and dove-tail notched (V clipping) in the other before turning through and pressing. See photo 1. Before doing this next time, consider what this may be doing to the particular area of the garment you are working on. The two best examples are necklines and armholes as having them slightly stretched or bagging is not a good look. When a curved seam is sewn, the raw edge of the seam is smaller in length than the stitching line itself; therefore, if this seam is to be turned through or opened up, the raw edge needs some release to sit flat. Clipping…

The Cosy Knit Coat B6251 ‘FAST & EASY’: Unlined sweater jacket/coat in four variations. Designed for medium-weight to heavyweight moderate stretch knits. Misses’ sizes: XS (4-6) − XXL(24-26). The Layered Tunic B6247: Pullover tunic (close-fitting through bust) has collar variations, and narrow hem. Designed for lightweight moderate stretch knits. Misses’ sizes: XS (4-6) – XXL (24-26). The Easy Pullover B6248: Pullover tunic has side-front seams, collar, plus pocket and hem variations. Designed for lightweight moderate stretch knits. Misses’ sizes: 8 – 24. www.butterick.com…

What is a French Curve? The French curve is an invaluable design device used by patternmakers and dressmakers the world over. It’s a tool which most home sewers have heard about, but one which many are hesitant to use. Here we explain the French curve and show just how easy it is to use. This is the information about using the French curve as given inside the Sew Easy French Curve with Grading Rule packaging. The curve is available in imperial and metric standards. If you have a similar tool or have put off buying one because you don’t know how to use it, you will see how easy it is and be down to your local sewing store in a flash. The French curve is a sewing tool which…

The range of faux fur resembles the natural variety to a great degree with the exception that it is easily maintained and socially acceptable to wear. Selections range from the long-haired versions of fox to the short haired versions of chinchilla and leopard. Whatever you choose there are a few basic guidelines to follow when sewing with faux fur. Fur Types Faux furs can be divided into three categories: long haired, short pile, and plush. The most difficult to work with, of course, is the long hair and the simplest is plush. The plush varieties resemble heavy velvet or thick corduroy and, while special considerations are required, they are by far the easiest to deal with. If you are a novice sewer this latter category is the one you should…

Each year the Australia Sewing Guild sets a themed sewing challenge for its annual convention. The theme for the 2015 convention, held in Brisbane, was all about sun and fun. Three different categories were set – Swish Resort Wear, Sunny Accessories and Summer Travel Wardrobe. The challenge is open to all Guild members, regardless of experience or expertise. They rose to the occasion, producing some of their finest work. Each category had three levels of judging – (1) Debutante, for first time entrants, (2) Past Winner/Tutor, for the more experienced challenge entrant, and (3) Member, for those who had entered previous challenges but never took home a prize. In addition to the formal judging, viewer’s choice awards were also awarded for each category. The standard of entries was very high,…