Table of contents for No. 25-2 in Australian Stitches

Welcome to Stitches Vol 25 No 2! The following pages are a great mix for everyone – couture to casual, fashion trends for ‘every figure’, sewing techniques and information, plus make your own skirt pattern. Lynn has finally been on home ground long enough to write about her travel wardrobe. Turn to page 15 to see what worked in her mix, and what she will leave at home next time! I had a fun conversation with Alison Wheeler just recently and the hand sewing of her seam finishes on Vogue V9148 (page 28). This conversation turned into the history of the simple sewing needle. Did you know, the needle, made of animal bones, antlers, and tusks helped make possible the extension of human settlement into cooler regions after the Ice…

The description on the pattern envelope states that it is intended for medium knits only. However, by making a woven toile for fitting, any necessary pattern alterations can be made so that the fit is adjusted to accommodate a woven fabric (see Vol 25 No 1 for details of how to make and use a toile). The only changes needed for this garment were a little more width across the back and front at bust level. The fabric is Italian silk and polyamide was purchased at Alla Moda Fabric Collection in Brisbane. It is a most unusual fabric – the warp threads are artificially manufactured polyamide (an extremely fine fibre sold as nylon in all parts of the world) and the weft threads are silk woven in an intricate diagonal…

The basic crux of it is this: a dart can be transferred to any position around the pivotal point of the bust, without altering the fit of the garment. Why is this a big deal? It means that if you have a pattern of which you love everything except the dart positioning, you can change it. You can move that dart pretty much anywhere as long as it is pivoting around the bust point. This can be a real game changer if there is a particular dart position you hate – or if you have a larger than average bust size, as doing a full bust adjustment at the waistline is much easier than the centre front. Let’s have a look at it in practice with an example. Here is…

But what if you don’t have quite enough fabric? What if you changed the grainline slightly, would it make much difference? Here we test what would happen to the fall of a skirt if the grainline is changed. Using the same simple four-gore, flared skirt pattern three skirts made – each cut on a different grainline. See the difference for yourself. Skirt No 1 – The centre of the gore is cut on the straight grain. Start by placing the vertical grainline down the centre of the gore. The flare of the gore sits evenly either side of the straight grainline. This gives the skirt an even flounce around the hemline and always looks good no matter what length the skirt is. As the grain is nearly straight on the…

I use this method of securing the hem allowance on all leather garments, such as leather trousers and skirts. An alteration shop could charge up to $55 - $65 to shorten the sleeves. Imagine how much you can save by doing it yourself. I am going to take you through the steps in this article, however I have produced an eBook which is 18 pages and includes at the end, a video which starts at the beginning on how to determine the right length through to the final step. It can be purchased from my website at www.geniecentre.com/ebooks-to-alteryour-clothes/ and is on sale for $9.95. First important point is that leather is difficult to pin. So rather than use pins I use bull dog clips. I fold the excess fabric under…

Nice Splicing Splicing contrasting colours or fabrics is a fabulously effective optical trick that visually sculpts or lengthens your frame. • Create the optical illusion of a sleeker shape by adding darker side panels to a sleek sheath dress. Go for contrasting tones of the same colour, as in the blues of the Burda Plus Style at top left, for a timelier take on the trend. • Placing a dark panel down the front of a bold print dress does the opposite, creating shapely curves for an angular figure, as in the Butterick style at bottom left. • Want to visually add height? A long, narrow strip of bright colour, flanked by a bold pattern and black creates a flattering vertical - and slimming! - line (the front tie detail…

If you have never given a thought to making your own pads, now is the time to learn from an expert and be ready when the new styling arrives for winter. First, Claire experiments with readymade shoulder pads in different sizes, thicknesses and shapes to decide which shoulder pad is right for the individual figure and the particular design. This allows her to know, before she begins building the shoulder pad, exactly how she wants to customise them. Shoulder pads help to create a smooth, well-defined shoulder line, while filling in the hollows above the bust. They are a key component in all types of tailored garments, from inexpensive ready-to-wear outfits to haute couture, and just as important as interfacings and canvas foundations. Shoulder pads can be inconspicuously thin or…

Knit Construction Knit fabrics are made up of a series of interlocking loops that result in a flexible construction. All knits have a degree of stretch; the yarn and the knit structure used will significantly vary the amount and the direction of this stretch. There are two basic knit structures, warp and weft: Warp knit fabric is constructed with many yarns forming loops at the same time in a lengthwise direction. Each yarn is controlled by its own needle, and interlocked with its neighbouring yarn in a zigzag fashion. This interlocking process produces fabrics that will usually not run and have restricted stretchability. See photo 1. Weft knit fabric is constructed from looping a single yarn in a horizontal direction, and each succeeding line of the yarn being looped into…

If You’re Curvy/Full Figured • Curvy and voluptuous figure types should take advantage of the strong ‘vintage glamour’ trend this season. Fabulous ‘50s inspired full-skirted looks with fitted bodices and sweetheart necklines just beg for va-va-voom curves (note the Simplicity dress in the main image on the facing page has a princess lined, softly pleated skirt rather than hip-widening gathers)! • When it comes to what’s on top, go easy … with kimono wrap jackets in graphic/tribal patterns or the loose, button-free duster coat (newer than a trench!) in a shot of strong colour over black. Simple lines and minimal detailing make these loose, easy shapes wearable for the fuller figure. • Tunics get a very fashionable makeover - with deep V-necks (sometimes filled in with criss-cross lacing, as in…

Fitting a contour waistband A pattern’s contour waistband curve may not match your curves. To fit, try on the pattern tissue. 1. If you do not have a full front and back pattern piece, make one so you can fit both sides of your body. 2. Pin the side seams together with the seams on the outside. 3. Alter the pattern to fit your shape. • If your waist is larger than the pattern measurement, slash the tissue from the top to – but not through – the bottom in several places and spread it. Have someone else help you. Tape over the slashes right to your body to hold the spread. See diagram 1. • After altering, take off the waistband and place it on tissue. The tape will…

When we traditionally think of eveningwear, we think of ‘Big-time’ formal occasion dresses that usually roll down a red carpet … but for the real world, what’s needed are some reliable looks in your closet that are easy to throw on and that are ready for a wide range of occasions (a theatre/restaurant evening, a special occasion at home, a dinner date, an afternoon-into-evening function), without too much stress, especially when the summer festive season calls for a somewhat less formal approach. Even though the approach is somewhat easier than with a pullout-all-the-stops evening gown, it’s actually one that requires more thinking, as these looks have to be more versatile to cover a range of occasions (let’s face it – you’re not likely to have a whole wardrobe of full…

As we already mentioned in ‘Get The Look’, separates for evening are where the current fashion action is. When the occasion calls for something a little more ‘dressed’, it’s worth skirting the issue, as there are now a great selection of floating, flaring wonders in glimmering taffeta, satin or shantung. They are the fresher, more modern alternative to the standard long ballgown, especially when paired with a simple (but sometimes sparkly!) tank top or fitted shirt. With interesting details such as asymmetrical ruffles or uneven hems, they really shine in slightly offbeat colours as the mustard/gold or aqua blue shown on the glamourous Vogue and McCall’s styles shown on the facing page. One constant in eveningwear that never really dates is the predilection for Hollywood glamour; the style of those…

Materials •  Pattern Tracing Paper• Pen Or Pencil• Ruler• French Curve• Basic Skirt Pattern – Fitted To Your Personal Body Shape• Sticky Tape TIPS: • The style of this design requires a fabric with soft, draping qualities. • When making a pattern it is important to add a seam allowance to any section that you separate from the original pattern. You will need to work with a full front and full back pattern. Using diagram 1 as a reference, follow the instructions for the front and back pattern plan. Front and back skirt plan Trace the full front and back patterns of your basic skirt block onto paper. As a guide, mark the hipline and grainline. Note: The centre front and back becomes the grain line. As the darts are to be pivoted out into…

Hand stitching has many virtues. It allows you to control the fabric more easily. It’s softer than machine stitching since there’s only one thread, not two. It’s easier to remove and less likely to mar the fabric when removed. Needles I use small-size needles for most sewing because they are less likely to mar the fabric. It doesn’t take long before they bend and need to be discarded. I use short needles for general sewing, short basting stitches, hemming, slipstitches, herringbone and fell stitches and long needles for long stitches or to pick up multiple short stitches like running stitches. My favourite needles are cotton darners, betweens, crewel or embroidery needles, and calyx-eye needles. I usually buy needles made in England or Germany, but you might like those made in…

If you would like to make this Free! Pattern from Patons, email stitches@wpco.com.au and it is yours. Please state in the ‘subject line’: Patons Crochet Pattern Vol 25 No 2. If ordering multiple patterns, just state in the email body text the numbers of each relevant volume you require. To view more patterns in the Patons range go to www.patonsyarn.com.au…