Table of contents for June 18 in Wanderlust

GLOBETROTTERS CLUB London, 2 June www.globetrotters.co.uk The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, Covent Garden, WC2B 5EZ. Doors open at 2.15pm. £6; £3 for members. Tickets available on the door. This month, David Redford recalls tales of intrigue from his many visits to the River Nile, while Russell Maddicks chats about Central America’s forgotten corner: Nicaragua. LONDON MAP FAIR London, 9–10 June www.londonmapfairs.com Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. Opening times 12-7pm (Sat) and 10am–6pm (Sun). Free. Rejoice, map lovers! The planet’s largest map fair returns, bringing together more than 40 of the leading British and international antiquarian map dealers as well as plenty of visiting cartography aficionados from around the globe. Maps available for sale date from the 15th to the 20th century and cover all corners of…

Pouakai Crossing By Sara-Jane Stillwell Located on the western side of New Zealand’s North Island, this 19-kilometre circuit traverses ridges, wetlands and forests, and skirts the twin peaks of Mount Taranaki (pictured). It’s possible to walk the whole day and only see a handful of other ‘trampers’ on this track. Tongariro Alpine Crossing By Rupert Sanford-Scutt One of New Zealand’s officially titled ‘Great Walks’, this North Island hike takes you through 19 kilometres of active volcanic topography. On a clear day, you’ll see cindery craters, lakes of varying outlandish colours, and landscapes that look like the moon’s surface. Hooker Valley Track By Olivia Poole This ten-kilometre return walk is over flat terrain. You'll cross swing bridges and see glacial icefalls and lakes. The track ends at iceberg-strewn Hooker Lake at…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Jamestown Population: 4,761 Language: English Time: GMT International dialling code: +290 Visas: Not required by UK nationals. Money: St Helena pound, equivalent to the UK£, which is also legal tender. Note: there are no ATMs, so you are advised to take sterling cash. The bank is closed on a Sunday, so, if flying in on a Saturday, get cash at the airport if you have no sterling. When to go Temperatures in Jamestown range from 20°C to 32°C in the summer and 15°C to 26°C in the winter; central areas are, on average, around five to six degrees cooler. ■ Summer – the hottest weather of the year, and peak time for swimming with whale sharks ■ Rainy season – the wettest time of year ■ Winter…

Congratulations to the following guides, who also deserve a special mention: Adrian Gallop Journey Latin America Arnold Tsaneb Ultimate Safaris Carlos Borda Peru Summit Ghanshyam Singh Intrepid Javier Rodriguez Soto Forever Barcelona Julian Matos Urban Adventures Sanju Shakya Inspire Nepal Surya Singh Chundawat Wild Frontiers Have you travelled with one of these extraordinary shortlisted guides? If you have a tale to tell or praise for one of our ten incredible tour leaders, please drop us a line. Tell us what you love about their work and why you think they deserve this coveted industry accolade – the only one of its kind. Send your comments by: POST: Wanderlust World Guide Awards [name of guide], 1 Leworth Place, Mellor Walk, Windsor, SL4 1EB ONLINE: Post your comments online at www.worldguideawards.co.uk EMAIL:…

Sarah Ahern, Polar Expert and Product Manager at Exodus Travels gives her tips on the best polar voyages for… PENGUINS: With its majestic snow-covered mountains, South Georgia is so remote that it has evolved into an astonishing wildlife haven; Salisbury Plain, St Andrews Bay and Gold Harbour are teeming with wildlife including fur seals, elephant seals and massive colonies of the colourful king penguins on their beaches. ICEBERGS: Spitsbergen, beyond the Arctic Circle to 80 degrees north, where snow-draped mountains rise high above the pack ice; polar bear viewing is almost guaranteed, with Phippsoya being one of their preferred hunting areas since the towering cliffs of Alkefjellet provide many free bird egg meals for them and the Arctic fox. ICEBERGS: Greenland is the world’s largest island, and home to the…

DEET OR NO DEET? Insect repellent falls into two distinct categories – those that use DEET (or diethylmetatoluamide) and those that don’t. For young children, pregnant women or those who suffer skin reactions from using DEET, it’s wise to look at the alternatives on offer. The most common ‘natural’ repellents contain a mix of lemon (‘citronella’), eucalyptus or a synthetic product called picaridin (created to resemble piperine, which is found naturally in pepper plants). Scientists and doctors usually recommend DEET if going to a country with a high risk of particularly nasty insect-borne diseases such as malaria, dengue fever or Zika – check with your GP or travel clinic before you leave. RISK VS DISCOMFORT Every few years you’ll see headlines emerging that question the use of DEET-containing products, citing…

Imagine Africa is offering one lucky reader the chance to win two places on an 11-night tour to Namibia, including flights courtesy of South African Airways. Plus, Nikon will also give the winner a Nikon D3400 camera and a Nikon Photograhy School voucher, in order to best capture those picture perfect moments Namibia provides. For a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: In which year was Namibia granted its independence? (a) 1988 (b) 1990 (c) 1994 To enter and for full terms and conditions, please visit www.travelnamibia.co.uk/win . The closing date is 27 June 2018. State ‘no offers’ if you’d rather not be contacted by Wanderlust or sponsors.…

Every , we your Wanderlust take you?’, giving you a chance to win a goody bag including a versatile High UV with Insect Shield Buff® – the ultimate travel accessory (£22.50 RRP). But can you top Colm (above)? Show us where your Wanderlust takes you and where you take your Wanderlust! Take your magazine with you on your next trip and share a pic with us. Post it on our Facebook wall, tweet it to us at @wanderlustmag, email it to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk  or hashtag it #wanderlustmag on Instagram.…

Uzbekistan Reader Steve Hoare recounts spending 11 days in this little-visited Asian wonder The highlight: The ancient inner city of Khiva, as seen from atop a watchtower. The buildings glowed golden brown at sunset. Must see: Registan Square in Samarkand. The buildings are magnificent but students who wanted to practise English have left lasting memories of chats in stunning surroundings. Top tip: Take US dollars, but don’t change too much money into local som at the outset. Meals are cheap here and souvenirs can be bought in dollars, but som can’t be changed back. Cautionary tale: Be prepared for long drives, but at least the fast train between Samarkand and Tashkent removes one of these. I wish I’d known... That all the horror stories regarding the food were unfounded, although…

Cabin etiquette Unless you’re with a partner or friend, you’ll likely be sharing a cabin with one or more strangers. As in any shared accommodation, you’ll want to mark your space (cupboards, personal areas) to avoid conflict. Be sure to communicate and give your roomie space when it looks like they need it (and don’t be afraid to ask if vice versa). Pack earplugs, in case of snoring, and eye masks should they be early risers or late-night readers. Chances are, you’ll have similar interests, though (you picked the same trip after all), and chatting about the trip is an easy icebreaker. Get good insurance Bear in mind that many expedition cruises take travellers beyond the reach of easy helicopter rescue. In such medical emergencies, ships will dock at the…

1 In 1887, French actress/It girl Sarah Bernhardt stunned a then-prudish Rio by slipping on a costume and diving into the ocean, inspiring centuries of future Brazilian beachgoers; p66 2 The Venice-Simplon-Orient-Express is not the original train that was launched in 1883, though some of its carriages date from the 1920s; p83 3 Old Windsor (not Windsor) was the royal seat until Henry I moved in upriver at Windsor Castle in 1110; p139 4 Napoleon cut holes into the blinds of his St Helena home so he could spy on visitors; p48 5 In its Peruvian heyday, over 200 llamas were sacrificed in Cusco as part of the Inca festival of Inti Raymi; p20…

conomy class. Its very name E is the definition of thrift and prudence. After all, what could be cheaper than that? Well, first came the oxymoron of ‘premium economy’, then we collectively shuddered at the idea of ‘basic economy’. Now airlines are offering several new degrees of budget ticket, but is it too far? Virgin Atlantic is one of a number of carriers expanding their offerings in 2018, launching three new economy classes: ‘light’, ‘classic’ and ‘delight’, each offering varying levels of convenience and service. So why are they doing it? ‘Surely anything that increases airline passenger choice is a good thing’ “Customers are looking for more personalisation and flexibility,” says Shai Weiss of Virgin Atlantic. “By offering three ways to fly economy, we’re allowing them to choose a product…

When the French founded New Orleans 300 years ago, they left a lasting impression. From the pastel-coloured Creole cottages of the city’s French Quarter to its colourful faubourgs (suburbs), Gallic influence is rooted deep in its streets. But travellers will discover what could be the French’s finest legacy found served among the city’s many coffee shops and cafés. Beignets (pronounced ‘ben-yays’) are sugary puffs of fried choux pastry that arrived in New Orleans via Canada, after the Brits evicted a group of French settlers from Acadia (now Québec) in the mid-1700s. No sooner were the city’s roots laid down than the first batch was fried up, and their popularity – usually served with a café au lait – even prompted the rise of New Orleans’ café culture. Café du Monde…

Conservation is one of the defining issues of modern travel, and this month’s shelf contains two titles that’ll sadly send shivers down your walking boots. The first leans close to home. Our Place (Jonathan Cape, £19) sees Mark Cocker try to answer a hefty question: can we save British nature before it’s too late? In doing so, he explores the history, politics and law of environmental thought, focussing on six spots around the UK, taking him from Norfolk to Scotland, via wild Derbyshire. When the Last Lion Roars (Bloomsbury, £17) finds the King of the Beasts very much in limbo. Sara Evans charts the wanderings of the biggest big cat across much of the planet – a simultaneous history of human fear and folly – while talking to the people…

A well-packed bag makes for a high-quality adventure. Short on time, space and patience? Here are a few top tips from our Clothing Buyer Sam Crouch to help you pack like a pro. 1. Carry-on exploring Most airlines only allow one carry-on bag per passenger, but that doesn’t mean you should start panicking about what to leave behind. The Farpoint 40 rucksack from Osprey is a perfect on-board companion for any adventure, so you can take all you need for the journey. 2. Layer up Expect the unexpected and prepare for any climate. Layers such as the Ayachucho Kalambo AM Hoodie help you adapt whatever the weather; made from bamboo, this top is lightweight and breathable, keeping you comfortable with moisture-repelling power. 3. Two-for-one Dual purpose garments like the Kiwi…

1 Newcastle  Newcastle is a city that grabs you by the imagination and never lets go. It also has all the ingredients of a good urban ramble: epic location, great buildings, plenty of attitude. Its regenerated waterfront is a revelation to wander, too, with a fine art space, the iconic Millennium Bridge and loads of spots to pause for a drink. 2 Brighton As well as a bracing walk along the seafront, there’s lots of green space to stroll here, plus myriad intriguing lanes, a racetrack, a Victorian cemetery and a buzzing city life. It also has some 400 places to eat – more per head than anywhere else in the UK. That might slow your progress a bit, though! 3 Oxford Wandering between the banks of Oxford’s two rivers…

1 Composition  A good foreground connects you to the scene beyond, so where you place your camera makes all the difference. Adjust your height and position to control how the foreground and background relate, then move around to finesse the composition. It’s the difference between a snapshot and something you’ll cherish. 2 Depth of field  A good landscape shot allows the eye to wander. To aid that, everything from the foreground to the horizon needs to be sharp. Using a small aperture helps, but it also means selecting a high f-stop number when you set up your exposure. If you’re not sure about your settings, just use the camera’s automatic Landscape mode. 3 Shoot in all weathers  There is a photograph to be found on any day, in any condition.…

How we did the test… We asked manufacturers of insect repellents to submit those they felt were the best options for travellers. Of those submitted, our editor-at-large, Phoebe Smith, took them on the road to find out how they performed and what they were like to use. Each has been given a ‘Best for…’ rating, as indicated. Best for… malaria-carrying mosquito countries JUNGLE FORMULA Maximum Strength £10 (150ml) If in high risk of serious insect-borne infection (dengue, malaria, etc), DEET is a must. With its 50% DEET mix and endorsement from the Hospital of Tropical Diseases, this is said to offer some of the best protection around. It has a strong chemical smell but was most effective on test. Using the aerosol (also available as a pump-spray or roll-on), it…

Heres an day , taking in Santiago and Torres del Paine NP, courtesy of Geodyssey, for you and a friend, including international flights. To be in with a chance, just answer the following question: Q: In which year was Torres Del Paine National Park established? (a) 1932 (b) 1959 (c) 1980 To enter and for full terms and conditions, please visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions. The closing date is 27 June 2018. State ‘no offers’ if you’d rather not be contacted by Wanderlust or sponsors.…

Inspiring the young I just wanted to share my best recent travel moment with you. It came while eating a picnic with my three children (aged three, five and eight) in the garden and realising my copy of Wanderlust was now no longer my own! They loved the photos, and we talked about some of the articles. Although our travels this summer are only as far as Dorset and Devon, one day I hope to show them some of our amazing world further afield! Thanks for such a great magazine; I’ve subscribed for a number of years now. Tom Ansell, via email Old(er) travellers I subscribed to Wanderlust at the Destinations show in London in February and love the photos and articles each month. My one regret is that when…

Remembering a ride on the New Zealand rails: “I did the Coastal Pacific back in 2008. There were fab views from the open-air viewing coach at the back.” Rachel Birchley Taking in Italy’s best sights: “Taormina is awesome – it’s a terrifying drive up there but well worth it!” @ExpatRoaming Island-hopping in Greece: “I travelled through the Peloponnese last autumn and was struck by how different it was to the brochures.” @insidetravellab Championing the Middle East: “It’s always worth going to Oman. I went there with my family by accident one day!” Katie John Drooling over Latin American meat: “I visited Argentina a few years ago and it’s still the best I’ve had.” @LauraA0453 Reminiscing over Vietnam: “I went there for a couple of weeks. It was a fascinating country…

Costa Rica is offering one lucky reader the chance to win an eight-day adventure for two in the land of pura vida, including flights, accommodation and internal transport. For a chance of winning this escape, simply answer this question: Q: What is the national bird of Costa Rica? (a) Yigüirro (b) Scarlet macaw (c) Trogon To enter and for full terms and conditions, please go to www.experiencecostarica.co.uk . The closing date is 31 July 2018. State ‘no offers’ if you’d rather not be contacted by Wanderlust or sponsors.…

Underwater viewing The latest thing for some expedition ships is ‘underwater lounges’: eye-shaped viewing windows to help you while away your time on board by glaring into the unfathomable depths – and even feeling them on ‘body listening sofas’. And for times when nothing swims by, digital screens project live video footage capturing underwater scenes from elsewhere on the ship, such as dolphins playing in the waves. Choose your experts It isn’t enough to just go somewhere. For those long hours at sea, cruises employ a host of ‘experts’ to give lectures and talks on everything from whale-watching and stargazing to improving your photography skills. When trying to decide between routes, bear this in mind if you want to do more than just relax. Explore the depths Some luxury cruises…

• Essential Info Population: 1.9 million (metropolitan) Language: English Time zone: GMT-5 (Nov–Mar GMT-6) International dialling code: + 1 Visas: Not required by UK citizens for stays of up to 90 days. But you will need a valid ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization), which can be applied for online (esta.cbp.dhs.gov; $14/£10). Currency: US dollars ($), currently $1.39 to the UK£. Highest viewpoint: The top-floor lounges of the Renaissance and The Westin hotels overlook the city’s downtown music icons. Health issues: None to speak of. Recommended guidebooks: Both the Insiders’ Guide (2016) and Moon (2018) handbooks are useful guides. Getting around: Free electric Music City Circuit buses (nashvillemta.org) run along two central routes (6/7am–11pm). Ridesharing apps Lyft and Uber are popular but the centre is very walkable. Web resources: Try…

• Essential Info When to go: Year round. Visit between September and March for access to Windsor Castle’s Semi-State Rooms; the castle closes entirely on 17–18 June 2018. Getting there: Windsor is 1.6km from Junction 6 of the M4. There are two railway stations, Windsor & Eton Central (connects with Slough, where fast trains run to London Paddington and Reading) and Windsor and Eton Riverside (connects with London Waterloo). Heathrow is 20km east; bus routes 71 and 77 link Windsor and Terminal 5. Getting around: The compact centre is best explored on foot. Buses serve the wider area; an Explorer FirstDay ticket offers unlimited travel for 24 hours for £8. Where to stay: The Macdonald Windsor Hotel (23 High Street; 01753 483100) offers opulence right opposite the castle; doubles from…

Some things don’t change. In 1888, the first cable funicular in Asia was built in Hong Kong, linking the suburbs of the ‘Hill District’ (where many British colonial officials lived). The original Peak Tram was born and its popularity soon grew. By the end of the tram’s first year, 150,000 had ridden its rails – the city’s population at the time was only 180,000. In the 1920s its coal-fired boilers were replaced by electricity (pictured right), and it has had a few makeovers since. But one thing remains: the same vast views that visitors have been admiring for 130 years.…

Dougie Cunningham Photographer Sometimes the best places to explore – and snap – are right on your doorstep. It is something Scottish photographer Dougie Cunningham knows all too well from roaming his homeland of Scotland. On page 86, he revisits one of his favourite locations to share tips on how to bring your shots to life and capture the majesty of a mountain stream… Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Mountain. First great travel experience? Travelling with a kayak around Scotland, then later the Alps and further afield. It gave me a unique perspective of a country. Favourite journey? A solo trekking trip to Patagonia. It was a place I’d lusted after for years and it lived up to every expectation and more. Top five places worldwide? Torres…

YES Sheela KL, Wanderlust reader “One of my fantasies as a little girl was to see the world in 80 days. It has remained my motivation, and I’ve been to 32 countries so far (albeit not in 80 days). Now, this idea to see seven continents in 140 days is a game-changer. Everything on this cruise sounds adventurous, right from living on the ship to waking up at sea, to sunrises and touching the sands on the shores. That sea breeze should be calling my name and inviting me to join the adventure of a lifetime.” NO Gemma Thompson, Founder of girlsthattravel.com  “I definitely see the appeal of this cruise, but for me, it’s too much in one go. I’d rather spend 140 days dedicated to one continent.…

Here s your chance to win a £2,000 voucher to be spent on any Ramblers Walking Holiday or Adagio holiday to Switzerland. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: In which year did Ramblers Walking Holidays begin operating? (a) 1936 (b) 1946 (c) 1956 To enter and for full terms and conditions, please visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions. The closing date is 27 June 2018. State ‘no offers’ if you’d rather not be contacted by Wanderlust or sponsors.…

They’re rarely in the limelight but they’re a crucial cog in the world of travel. They help convert a good trip into great one. Yep, we’re talking guides, and now’s the time to give something back to those who lead us around the planet. This year – the 13th Wanderlust World Guide Awards – we received over 4,000 nominations, a record. We’ve squeezed your choices down to just ten; now we need your help. If you’ve worked or travelled with any of the guides here, please send your comments via post, email or via our website (www.worldguideawards.co.uk) to help the judges decide. The top three will be recognised and awarded bursaries in a ceremony at London’s Royal Geographical Society on 4 October 2018. Julie Gabbott Where she guides: Worldwide Booked…

VITAL STATISTICS State capital: Rio de Janeiro Population: 12.6 million (metropolitan) Language(s): Portuguese; various indigenous languages Time: GMT-3 (Oct–Feb GMT-4) International dialling code: +55 Visas: Not required by UK nationals. Money: The Brazilian Real (BRL), currently BRL4.9 to the UK£. ATMs are found across Rio; credit cards are also widely accepted. When to go Rio lies on the edge of the tropics, with an average temperature range between the high and low 20s (ºC) all year round. ■ High season – between December and April are the warmest and wettest months. Temperatures peak (28ºC) in January and the beaches fill fast. ■ Carnival season – this falls on the weekend before Shrove Tuesday every year (either in February or March). Prices rise, hotel rooms are scarce. ■ Low season –…

Where did you fly and what preparation did you do beforehand? We flew to New Zealand via Hong Kong for a family trip, so we had four flights if you include the return leg. Before we went, I made sure we packed eye masks, earplugs, socks, neck pillows, refillable water bottles, warm shawls and reading materials, as well as making sure that we all wore comfortable clothing and footwear. What did you do on board? We watched far too many films before trying to get to sleep – rather unsuccessfully, I must say! We all made sure we stood up occasionally and walked around a bit to stretch our legs. Was there anything you wish that you had brought with you? I wish I’d had some alternative food for my…

‘I never get ill, so travel health insurance is a waste of money.’ Wrong. Health insurance provides a helpline number so any worrying symptoms can be discussed with a clinician. They will also have a list of local clinics where you are likely to find a doctor who can speak English. These days, there is an ever-expanding industry of health tourism. Businessmen have set up fancy hospitals to attract foreigners to come for hip replacements or cosmetic surgery, and in the event of an accident you may be taken to one of these. Often the first thing set up is a drip, so you can’t leave. Travel insurers actually have teams of clinicians who ‘rescue’ patients from such difficulties and can arrange an air ambulance home if needed. It is…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Taipei City Population: 23.5million Language(s): Mandarin is prevalent, with regional Chinese languages reflecting centuries of migration from China. Outside the major cities, English is uncommon. Time: GMT+8 International dialling code: +886 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days Money: Taiwan New Dollar (TWD), currently around TWD41 to the UK£ When to go Taiwan has a subtropical and unpredictable monsoonal climate. ■ Low season – largely dry and warm in the central and southern regions; this coincides with fewer tourists, so is good for discounts. Jan and Feb are busy with visitors during Chinese New Year and the colourful Lantern Festival. ■ Shoulder months – Oct/Nov coincide with the annual Taiwan Cycling Festival. ■ Peak season – Typhoons and heavy rains are…

Chiang Mai, Thailand “It was an awe-inspiring experience to ride through the jungles of Chiang Mai, peddling past rural villages and seeing Buddhist temples as well as wild elephants and monkeys. A truly magical time.” Hayley Quinnell Danube cycle path, Europe “We recently cycled along the Danube for ten days, starting at Regensburg and finishing in Vienna. It was a beautiful ride with no extreme hills, plenty of welcoming accommodation and hearty food along the way. Highly recommended.” Pam Montague Lake District, England “Around Lake Windermere there’s some amazing cycling along roadside paths and forest tracks, and you’ll pass Wray Castle. Take a stop for a peaceful paddle at any time you like, too! Our five-hour cycling day in the Lake District was an excellent way to see what nature…

Clothing confusion chums “I got my clothes laundered in Cambodia but when they were returned, they weren’t my clothes. Those I was given were my size, so I had to make do with them. A few days later I spotted someone wearing one of my T-shirts – we’re still friends now.” Oliver Randolph Foot fever “I left my cushioned trainers at home before a trip to Singapore and Malaysia; 30,000 steps and a day later, my feet were ruined.” Louise Ralston T-shirt temple faux pas “I went to India with just T-shirts and shorts and I wasn’t allowed into any of the temples because I was inappropriately dressed.” Herbert Appleby The Wetherspoons effect “Don’t pack a weekend bag while drunk. I did just that before a trip to Killarney, and…

With its rocky coves, sculpted bays and creamy sands, the Algarve has become a haven for beach-seeking tourists in Portugal. But sun, sea and sand isn’t the complete picture here – much wilder corners lie within. The Algarve’s rich interior tapestry of flower-filled meadows, gouging valleys, whitewashed villages and castle towns are left largely unspoilt. It’s an unhurried way of life here, and one that can be enjoyed by travellers – and especially walkers – at any time of the year thanks to a countryside streaked with hiking trails that stretch the region’s length and breadth. Coastal tracks The watery fringes of the Algarve’s western edge is truly wild. The Vicentina Coast has been a protected Natural Park since 1995. A wealth of walking routes – both long-distance and shorter…

The Santa Justa Lift (Elevador do Carmo) is one of the most prominent structures in Lisbon. Despite frequent claims to the contrary, it wasn’t built by the famous engineer Gustave Eiffel – it was designed by one of his students instead. The lift connects the lower and upper parts of town, and is at once the most extravagant and the most striking of its kind in this hilly city. It isn’t just there to get people from A to B, either: as well as the bridge to the upper town, visitors are treated to a viewing platform at the top.…