Table of contents for Inspirations Issue 108 in Inspirations

Creative Stitching Sue Spargo | Self-published 2017 | Soft-cover with spiral binding 216pg ISBN 978-0-9993902-0-7 | RRP USD$32.00 Stitch guides are almost a dime a dozen, and everyone tends to have a well-worn favourite in their library that they use as a go-to reference. A great addition to anyone’s collection would be this fabulous little book, the second edition of the title, that showcases the vast range of decorative embroidery stitches that Sue Spargo uses in her amazing work. Ideally sized for popping in your sewing bag at 19cm x 15cm wide (7 ½" x 6"), the book has a large spiral binding that allows it to be turned completely back on itself and prevents the pages from closing unexpectedly. The introductory chapter on needles and threads is brief and…

This type of filling is worked using very short lengths of cut purl, called 'chips', stitched in place close together to cover a shape. Contrasting thread is used for clarity. 1 Using a cutting pad, cut the check purl into short lengths, each as long as they are wide. 2 Secure the thread and bring it to the front within the shape. Thread a chip onto the needle and slide it to the base of the thread. 3 Lay the chip on the fabric, making sure the cut ends are facing down. Take the needle to the back at the opposite end of the chip. 4 Bring the thread to the front next to the first chip. 5 Stitch a second chip in place close to the first in the…

Combining stumpwork elements with surface stitching, the richly coloured fruits are worked as embroidered slips attached over padding to create a three-dimensional effect. Glistening red beads peep out between the edges of the skin on the large fruit and a graceful dragonfly hovers nearby. before you begin We recommend that you read the complete article See the pattern download for the embroidery design and templates All embroidery is worked with ONE strand of thread unless specified this design uses Beading | Blanket stitch Blanket stitch bar Chain stitch | Couching Cretan stitch Detached chain | Fly stitch Long and short stitch Needleturn appliqué Needlewoven picot Overcasting | Satin stitch Split stitch | Split back stitch Stem stitch | Straight stitch Whipping requirements Fabric 30cm (12") square of stone silk dupion 30cm…

FILLED WITH RICE AND LAVENDER IT CAN BE GENTLY HEATED TO CREATE A RELAXING EYE PILLOW OR FILL WITH LAVENDER OR ROSE PETALS TO FRAGRANCE DRAWERS OR A SUITCASE WHILE TRAVELLING. GENTLE SHADES OF BLUE ARE STITCHED ONTO WHITE LINEN IN THE STYLE OF TRADITIONAL DEERFIELD EMBROIDERY MAKING A WONDERFUL GIFT THAT IS BOTH PRETTY AND PRACTICAL. before you begin See the pattern download for the embroidery design We recommend that you read the complete article and instructions in the pattern download All embroidery is worked with ONE strand of thread unless specified this design uses Back stitch | Blanket stitch | Chain stitch | Cretan stitch Crow’s foot stitch | Detached chain | Feather stitch | Fern stitch French knot | Herringbone stitch | Padded satin stitch Running stitch |…

Lengths of gilt or silver plate create a unique and gleaming filling when laid across a shape. It is best to begin working across the widest part of the shape and lightly wax the couching thread before use with the metal plate. 1 Position the plate with a small tail to the inside of the shape. Work a couching stitch over the plate, aligned with the design line. 2 While maintaining tension on the couching thread, fold the plate back on itself over the thread. 3 If needed, gently flatten the fold using the flat side of a mellor or your thumbnail. 4 Work a couching stitch over both layers of plate, close to the fold. 5 Work a couching stitch over the plate at the second side of the…

To fill a shape, plate is couched in a zigzag motion, often over felt padding to enhance the reflection of light. To achieve a precise and sharp fold in the plate, fold it over the couching thread. 1 Fold 2mm ( 1/16") at one end of the plate, creating a small hook. 2 Lay the plate across the shape with the hook facing towards the fabric. Work a couching stitch over the hook to secure the end. 3 Work a small back stitch inside the design line to anchor the couching stitch. Bring the thread to the front on the design line below the plate, on the opposite side. 4 Take the needle to the back on the design line above the plate. 5 Pull the thread through and secure…

An exhibition of contemporary needlework by students of Ornamental Embroidery Ornamental Embroidery was delighted to work once again with the Ashmolean Museum (see Inspirations, issue 94), this time in partnership with the Bodleian Library in Oxford, to showcase the work of students in an exhibition entitled The Needles Art. The project grew out of a two-day workshop held in May 2018 and formed part of a continuing series of short courses run through the Museum’s Education Department exploring the history of hand-embroidered textiles and design. The workshop was inspired by an early sixteenth century pattern or ‘model’ book (MS Ashmole 1504), preserved in the collection of Western Medieval Manuscripts at the Bodleian Library. In addition to working on a couple of designs from the volume, we were given an opportunity…

This type of padding is often used under narrow, tapered shapes and covered with cut purls. The soft cotton thread is waxed to ensure it is firm and pliable before it is couched in place using waxed matching sewing thread. Contrasting thread is used for clarity. 1 Cut and wax the required number of cotton threads and place together in a bundle. Position the bundle along the shape ensuring the threads are straight and parallel. 2 Bring thread to the front at the widest point, just inside the design line. Take the needle to the back just inside the design line on the opposite side of the cotton padding. 3 Continue working stitches over the padding threads 2mm ( 1/16") apart in the same manner, pulling the padding threads firmly…

To form a hole large enough to pass metal thread or wire tails through, use a needle with a large eye and sharp tip. Wire may show through the fabric, so ensure the wire tails are bent behind the detached element. 1 Insert the large needle into the fabric at the required position and push through until the eye is halfway through the fabric. 2 Take the wire tails and any thread tail to the back through the eye of the needle and fabric. 3 Pull the needle all the way through the fabric and remove. 4 On the wrong side, pull the wire and thread through so that the base of the detached element is against the ground fabric. Bend the wire tails back against the fabric. 5 Using…

Also known as long-arm feather stitch, this can be used as an effective filling for leaf and petal shapes. Starting at the pointed end, work the first stitch with the tips together. The appearance of this stitch varies significantly depending on the spacing. 1 At the right-hand side, take the needle to the back on the outline and emerge to the right of the centre line. 2 At the left-hand side, take the needle to the back on the outline and emerge to the left of the centre line. 3 Continue working in this manner to fill the shape.…

This charming little bird, topped with a glittering crown, rests upon a sprig of holly and carries a stem of mistletoe. Incorporating a wide variety of threads and beads, this design provides an ideal opportunity to use materials from your own collection to create something that is totally individual and unique. before you begin See the pattern download for the embroidery design and templates We recommend that you read the complete article All embroidery is worked with ONE strand of thread unless specified this design uses Appliqué | Back stitch Chipping | Couching Cross stitch | French knot Long and short stitch Loop stitch | Satin stitch Split stitch | Stem stitch Straight stitch requirements Fabric 30cm (12") square of cream silk dupion 30cm (12") square of cream cotton 4cm (1½")…

This stitch is often used to work decorative borders and fillings. Space the stitches closer or wider apart according to the desired effect. Mark two lines to help keep your stitches even if desired. 1 Emerge on the lower line. With the thread below, take the needle from right to left on the upper line. 2 With the thread above, take the needle from right to left on the lower line. Keep the stitch length the same as the previous stitch. 3 With the thread below, take the needle from right to left on the upper line. 4 Continue working evenly spaced stitches, alternating between the lower and upper lines. 5 Closely worked herringbone stitch. Emerge in the same hole as the previous stitch.…

A lasso is a homemade tool formed by threading waxed heavy thread into a large-eyed needle. Cut and wax a 15cm (6") length of strong thread. 1 Making a lasso. Thread each end into the needle in opposite directions, creating a loop. 2 Using the lasso. Insert the needle at the point where the thread tail will be taken to the back. 3 Take the needle through the fabric leaving a small loop on the front. 4 Thread the very tip of the gold thread into the loop. Pull the lasso to hold the tip in place. 5 Hold the lasso on the wrong side and tug to pull the tip through to the back. 6 On the wrong side remove the lasso and gently ease the thread tail through.…

Dasher Page 18. Goldwork reindeer with a festive bauble Kit contains: Fabric, wool felt, soft string, embroidery threads, paillettes and needles Subscriber price: $137.70 Regular price: $162.00 O, Tannenbaum Page 28. Christmas tree with whitework techniques using shades of blue Kit contains: Fabric, embroidery threads and needle Subscriber price: $53.55 Regular price: $63.00 Persian Bounty Page 36. Stumpwork pomegranates and dragonfly using slips and wired elements Kit contains: Fabrics, wool felt, fusible webbing, wire, embroidery threads, beads and needles Subscriber price: $171.70 Regular price: $202.00 Bright Baubles Page 46. Or nué design of Christmas baubles worked over silver passing thread Kit contains: Fabrics, embroidery threads and needles Subscriber price: $97.75 Regular price: $115.00 Relax! Page 52. Deerfield scented sachet or eye pillow Kit contains: Fabric, embroidery threads and needle Subscriber…

“I am Iraqi by birth, Western in education and upbringing, Arab in spirit and Emirati in passion.” REEM EL MUTWALLI arrived in the UAE in 1968 - the same year oil was discovered – as a young girl of five, when her father started working as economic consultant to Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, then the Crown Prince, now the ruler of the UAE. “My childhood was spent in the company of the women and children of the UAE ruling families. In these inner circles of mothers, grandmothers, aunts, cousins, and friends I was surrounded by love and adoration, as well as with beauty. These memories of female friendship, love and splendour continue to feed my soul and guide my life choices to this day.” Reem’s passion for textiles…

This elegant interpretation is worked with a variety of metal threads onto a natural background and incorporates traditional goldwork techniques to spectacular effect. Primarily worked with gold threads, the addition of a single red bauble suspended from an antler brings a special touch of magic to this superb image. this design uses Chipping | Couching Purls over string padding before you begin We recommend that you read the complete article See the pattern download for the embroidery design and templates The finished design measures 19cm (7 1/2") square. requirements Fabric 35cm (14") square of natural linen/cotton blend 2cm (¾") square of natural linen/cotton blend Supplies 16cm (6½") square of yellow wool felt Yellow soft string – 2m (2yd 8") 50cm (20") square slate frame mounted with calico Lacing thread Silk pins…

Purls are traditionally placed at a 45˚ angle over padding. To achieve a good finish it is important that all the pieces of purl are cut accurately. If you are working a straight line, cut one purl and use this as a template for the remaining lengths. For tapered shapes, each piece must be measured and cut as the work progresses. Rotate your work so the line of padding is vertical. Use doubled, waxed sewing thread. 1 Bring the thread to the front halfway along the padding, close to the right-hand side. 2 Thread a length of purl onto the needle and gently slide it onto the fabric. 3 Lay the purl across the padding at a 45˚ angle. Check the fit and adjust if necessary. Take the needle to…

Filling a shape with satin stitch worked over padding creates a beautiful play of light and shadow over the smooth, raised surface. A few stitches are commonly used to create padding. For a neat finish, it is helpful to create a stable edge by first outlining the shape with split stitch. 1 Running stitch. Beginning inside the outline, work running stitches that are long on the surface and very short on the back of the work around the shape. 2 Working inwards, fill the shape. 3 Straight stitch. Work spaced straight stitches across the shape. 4 Stem stitch. Beginning inside the outline, work stem stitch, only taking a small stitch back towards each previous stitch. 5 Working inwards, fill the shape with rounds of stem stitch. 6 Chain stitch. Beginning…

Utilising the stunning metal thread technique of or nué, pairs of silver passing thread are couched in place with shades of red, purple and green cotton to create this delightful design. Worked onto white linen, each round bauble is topped with a cap and hangs from a cord. before you begin See the pattern download for the embroidery design We recommend that you read the complete article All embroidery is worked with ONE strand of thread unless specified this design uses Couching requirements Fabric 11cm x 15cm wide (4¼" x 6") piece of white linen 30cm (12") square of white calico (muslin) Supplies Slate frame or stretcher bars to fit calico Lacing thread (slate frame)Thumb tacks (stretcher bars)Goldwork scissorsMellor Blunt-nose tweezersPair of koma or rolls ofwool felt Pins Ruler Fine black…

This variation of blanket stitch forms an attractive edging. 1 Emerge at A. With the thread below and under the needle tip, take the needle to the back at B. Emerge at C. 2 Pull the thread through until it lies snugly against the emerging thread. 3 With the thread above and under the needle tip, take the needle to the back at D and emerge at E. 4 Pull the thread through and away from you. 5 Pull the thread towards you. A small straight stitch will lie across the base of the vertical stitches. 6 With the thread below and under the needle tip, take the needle to the back at F and emerge at G. 7 Pull the thread through as before. Repeat step 3. 8 Pull…

Scotch stitch is formed from blocks of diagonal satin stitch. In this variation, the direction of each block of stitches alternates across the row. Begin at the right-hand side of the row and ensure the ends of the stitches are aligned with the edges of each block. Work the blocks in this project over 5 x 5 threads. 1 Emerge at A. Take the thread to the back at B, over one intersection, and emerge at C. 2 Take the thread to the back at D, aligned with B. 3 Continue working stitches, moving along one fabric thread for each, until reaching the centre stitch. 4 Continue moving along one fabric thread, decreasing the stitch length and aligning the ends with the remaining two sides of the block. 5 Work…

INTER-THREAD As the name suggests, this is a place where I gather loose ideas about stitching, the embroidery community and life in general to find a common thought, a thread running through it all – something that connects us no matter where we find ourselves. As is typical in the publishing industry, I write this several months before you get to read it, which requires that I keep the topic general and timeless. I always look for something that occupies my mind now but that will still be relevant in four to six months. Not always easy when there are fast occurring changes in the way we live and work. As I write this in mid-March 2020 the world is desperately trying to make sense of the virus outbreak and…