Table of contents for July 2018 in Getaway

This month, it’s Independence Day in the USA (4 July), a time of fireworks, parades, barbecues and baseball games. Despite the reactionary domestic politics and wayward foreign policy of the sentient tangerine in the White House, there is much to celebrate about this great land. Especially it’s national parks, cultured cities and ‘can do’ attitudes. In addition, we’ve recently seen happy images beamed from Windsor of a Hollywood princess becoming a real princess. Whatever one’s feelings about royalty, it’s great for PR, great for tourism and for mending rifts between nations. And the transatlantic ‘special relationship’ needs all the help it can get, given Trump’s two left feet. America is a wonderful place to travel. For South Africans, it feels comfortable and familiar being in an English-speaking country with wide-open…

Bush time is the best time My husband and I have recently returned from an amazing two-week trip to Uganda. Part of the adventure included a few nights in the Ishasha section of the Queen Elizabeth National Park. We had heard of the tree-climbing lions found in this area and were fortunate to spot them at the end of our first day. The two snoozing in the lower section of a fig tree were easy to spot. Fortunately, we decided to drive around the tree in both directions for half an hour, and our patience paid off. A quick twitch of a tail identified the male sleeping near the top of the tree. Soon after this sighting, one black padded foot could be seen swinging below a branch halfway up…

From glorious getaways to cool gear, here are some of our latest winners Two nights at Bakubung Bush Lodge worth R19 421 I was having a morbid day and then I got a call to say I’d won this competition! Thank you to everyone involved. I look forward to my trip. – Bianca Sivada Sailaway Dhow Safari for two worth R9 350 My husband and I have always had the Bazaruto Archipelago on our bucket list. We can’t contain how excited we are! – Lucy O’Connell Jack Daniel’s gift pack worth R1 270 Can’t wait to enjoy this prize with my family. Thank you Getaway and Jack Daniel’s. – Sarah Walters A year’s subscription to Getaway Michael Raddall won the Reader’s Choice Award in May for his photo…

Which came first, the chicken or the egg? In this case, it was the hipster joint Pablo Eggs-Go-Bar and then Pablo House followed, because what goes better with an all-day breakfast bar than a couple of great beds? Both Joburg establishments are owned by Louis and Leigh Roux and ooze the Latino swank inspired by their notorious namesake, Pablo Escobar – think tropical palms and prints, air plants, areas of vintage decor and gilded embellishments. Claiming the highest point in Melville, Pablo House is no ordinary B&B. Each room has fast WiFi, compact Nespresso machines, UHD Smart TVs with Netflix (you simply must watch the series Narcos while here), Marshall speakers to play your own tunes and luxurious rainshowers with Charlotte Rhys toiletries. Suites one, two and three are in…

James Diack of La Stalla, Melville Travelling is when I research new ideas, explore new flavours and indulge my passion for wine. My three favourite places in the world are France, Italy and Spain. In Spain I had some of the best Iberico ham I’ve ever tasted, made from pigs that roam around feasting on acorns. We tried it with our pigs here in SA and our acorn-fed wild boar is famous now. A 15-course pairing menu changed my view on food. It was at Mugaritz in San Sebastian, Spain, and used ingredients sourced from within five kilometres. My most memorable holiday was barging through Burgundy last summer. My wife and I ate at Au Fil du Zinc in Chablis. Maputo is just pure soul food. What a vibe that…

LOCK AND GO American Tourister’s Soundbox Spinner 55cm is a chic luggage choice that comes in 10 colours with a fun circular design and hard shell. The zips clip into the bag, using a coded lock, to safeguard your possessions en route. The case has an extendable handle and a set of four wheels to make travelling easier, as well as a number of decent-sized compartments within the bag to neaten your packing. It's small enough to pass the hand-luggage dimensions for airlines. In 2017, the Soundbox collection won a Red Dot Product Design Award. R2 299, houseofsamsonite.co.za WIN! Turn to page 108 to win an American Tourister Soundbox Spinner 55cm and find more new gear.…

107 Dorpstraat This dinky, contemporary hotel and wine bar offers eight luxury rooms; each is individually decorated and features a queen-size bed, ‘work station’ and triple-glazed windows. There is also a new self-catering family room in the block behind. From R950 pp sharing B&B. 107dorp.co.za Rozendal If you prefer a farmstay atmosphere, replete with pot-bellied pigs, alpacas, horses and chickens, and don’t mind other guests in close proximity, this cluster of 16 units on an elevated slope is recommended (and great to take over as a group). Order a cheese platter and bubbly for sundown – the stoep is a delightful place from which to watch the town lights flicker on. Rozendal produces exceptional vinegars, and a tasting is included in the price. From R955 pp sharing B&B. rozendal.co.za Majeka…

It can get pricey if you DIY a trip to the islands, so I’d recommend you contact Harriet Joao at MadagasCaT Charters & Travel ( madagascat.co.za ). Aside from running two charter boats, Harriet knows every decent lodging option and is able to negotiate lower prices on airfares, reflected in her good-value packages. You can buy a visa for €29 cash (R433) on arrival. If you’re going to be on a charter, withdraw money from an ATM as drinks and souvenirs sold on islands are cash only and the best prices are in the local currency.…

180... That’s the estimated number of wild horses roaming around Kaapsehoop, Mpumalanga. The horses are descended from the ponies of prospectors at De Kaap gold fields in the late 1800s, and possible progenies of the 1899 – 1902 Anglo-Boer War. Remains of the early mining activities, such as open pits and trenches, are still visible, especially on the 108-kilometre network of hiking routes in the area. The trails criss-cross plantations, valleys and pockets of natural forests dotted with fig trees, orchids and tiny waterfalls. Pick up next month’s issue to read about the Blue Swallow Trail, a 60-kilometre, four-day trek along the Drakensberg escarpment.…

This is one of those shots that you work really hard to get as a photographer, but is absolutely worth it in the end. Unfortunately, a couple of days after I took this photo, there was a big hole torn in the side of the nest and no more chicks to be seen. Especially sad given all the parents’ hard work feeding them. – Wilhelm Jonker, Cape Town WIN! Tag us in your images on Instagram @GetawayMagazine and stand a chance of winning a R400 Outdoor Warehouse gift voucher. outdoorwarehouse.co.za…

WHAT Tracking wild otters WHERE Buffels Bay, Cape Point WHO Michelle Hardie The otters were hiding. But they were there all right. It was the smell – pockets of rich, musky urine hung in the air. ‘You’ll never forget it,’ said Terry McCaan, our guide, pushing his stick through the foliage and folding it back to reveal a secret: a smooth patch of earth levelled by an otter. ‘It hasn’t been here for a bit – see the spiderweb? And that flattened grass over there is where one has been resting up. They love lying in the sun,’ he said. I stood back, watching Terry, my excitement building. With the eye of a detective, he scanned the landscape through the drizzle. Then he stopped, staring intently at the shoreline. It…

SOCIAL SCENE ‘I go to Elevate Rooftop Bar at the Reef Hotel. My perfect sundowner is a G&T – but with a great view, any drink tastes good there!’ 58 Anderson Street, 011-689-1000. ‘We’re opening Zwipi Underground Bar this month in the old United Safety Deposit bank vaults [a labyrinth of different rooms].’ Somerset House, Gandhi Square. 082-894-5216 GRAB A COFFEE ‘I love sitting outside Cramers Coffee, watching the fashionable people amble past. I’m a coffee purist: it must be Americano, black and bitter.’ 17 Harrison Street (corner of Main), 011-833-2699. ‘Southeast of the square is Urban Backpackers with Kafe Noir – another brilliant coffee spot.’ 98 Anderson Street, 081-457-2744 FOUNDER OF JOBURGPLACES ‘I wrote a guide book to the city, Spaces & Places, in December 2010. Soon after, people…

I took this photo in the garden after a rain shower. Dragonflies are usually very active, but as luck would have it this one was soaked and drying off in the sun. I started with a much higher shutter speed but quickly went for longer exposures at f/16 and f/18 when I saw it was remaining perfectly still. Closing down the aperture provides more depth of field, resulting in better overall focus. This is one example of when it’s worth shooting with a tripod and remote. Equipment Nikon D7000, Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G (with wired remote and tripod), ISO 100, f/18, 1/30 sec…

21 INSPECTED 15 SELECTED HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Stellenbosch, she created a longlist of 21 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? •  Best views and walks to wine farms (pg 40) •  A modern self-catering bargain (pg 40) •  A spot with a great garden and pool (pg 41) •  A historic hotel that spoils you…

Breakfast Jaffles This recipe can be adapted with different pestos and vegetarian fillings such as mushrooms or roasted red peppers. Makes 6 • 18 rosa tomatoes • cooking oil • 1 sachet (125g) sun-dried tomato pesto • 12 bacon rashers • 6 eggs • 12 slices bread, buttered on one side • salt and pepper Fry the tomatoes on medium heat for 3 minutes, until softened. Add the tomato pesto and cook for another 2 minutes on high heat. Set aside to cool. Fry the bacon and eggs. To assemble, top a slice of bread with 2 bacon rashers and 3 cooked tomatoes. Top with a fried egg, season to taste, then close with another slice of bread. Spicy Potato & Pea Jaffles... Inspired by Cape Malay cuisine, with curries and gatsbies in mind. Makes 6 • 300g…

‘TO MAKE TEAM BRAVE ENOUGH to hunt a lion, the warriors smoked marijuana. They had to get the lion angry – angry enough to attack. Then they had to be quick – quick enough to turn around and face the lion. Then, when it attacked, lie down just in time to get it in the belly with a spear.’ So says Sonnyboy Dlamini, the manager of Swaziland’s Hlane Royal National Park and a proud citizen. No prouder than the day I visited, in fact, for he was preparing the camp to host King Mswati III on his 50th birthday. The king’s milestone was also used to announce the renaming of the country: 19th April 2018 was the day that Swaziland became the Kingdom of eSwatini. Surrounded by glowing paraffin lanterns…

SNOOZE ‘N CRUISE – daisies don’t open until about mid-morning so you have permission to stay in bed late! TURN YOUR BACK on the sun for the full impact of daisy blooms as they follow the sun. STOP FOR KOFFIE EN KOEK – it helps you stay alert on the long roads and you can pick up the latest flower info from the locals. CHECK FLOWER-SHOW DATES for each area as these give a good idea of when the wildflowers are expected to be at their best. WILDFLOWERS ARE PROTECTED and it’s illegal to pick them, so take only pictures and leave as light a footprint as possible.…

GETTING THERE Airlink flies direct from Joburg to Nosy Be (four hours) once a week (or twice weekly in peak season. From R12 325 return. flyairlink.com WHEN TO GO The rainy and hotter season is from November to April (from December to February it rains almost daily, and can sometimes be torrential). July and August are most popular. PACK THIS All you need while island-hopping are a few sarongs and swimming gear. For excursions into the rainforest, wear trousers and thick socks, and strong insect repellent – mozzies are as plentiful as dust motes. Malaria is rare but do take precautions. COST Six nights on Maki-Cat and one night at Sangany Lodge (sanganylodge.com) on Nosy Be with all meals, return airfares, airport taxes and transfers is from R26 190 pp…

I’m no fan of bullfighting. I’ve never been to a bullfight but I don’t like the idea of them. I saw one once on a fuzzy television in a hotel room in Yemen, and I’d been long enough without television that I would have watched toenails growing if that’s all that was on, but I turned it off after 10 minutes. It seemed cruel and cowardly and I didn’t see the point. I was recently in Ronda in Spain and I met an old bullfighter at a sidewalk cafe. He had a cane and a heavy limp, and he kept holding his hip and sighing. He spoke no English but his niece did. She told me about going to watch him when she was small, how afraid she was when…

WE ASKED: What are you most looking forward to this winter? A road trip. From the east of SA to the north, west and south, then back home again to ‘Big Five land’. – Nolan Armstrong Great food, stews and soups. Sitting by the fire drinking coffee. – Zamandayi Kunene For starters, some good old malva pudding. – Sumaya Paruk Cosy log cabins, fireplaces, Jacuzzis, hot pools… – Bianca Gautier White-chocolate bark with a steaming cup of cocoa. – Melissa Jooste Long-distance runs or mountain-bike rides with friends, followed by a delicious cup of coffee (and maybe a rusk). – Hamish Hardres-Williams No more mosquitoes! – Jess K. Oosthuyse…

‘During the [19th-century] Gold Rush, the first court building in Joburg was built in the middle of this square (then known as Government Square). It was here that Gandhi worked as a lawyer. He had his own practice just around the corner, behind where McDonald’s is today. A beautiful sculpture of a young Gandhi stands on the north side of the square. It has info boards and quotes from his life. The square was later named Van der Bijl Square, then Gandhi Square [it’s on New Street, off Rissik, Fox, Eloff or Marshall streets]. Amble down Main Street, a wonderful pedestrian road that’s also an outdoor city-and-mining museum; look at the displayed objects and info boards. Walk all the way to the imposing Anglo-American buildings [No. 44] and around the…

The launch of the Pentax K1 Mk ii has gone largely unnoticed in SA, but it has some interesting new features: 5-axis sensor-shift image stabilisation (which mitigates camera shake by moving on five axes), new handheld pixel-shift technology that eliminates unwanted blurring, and astrotracer (GPS-enabled software that tracks the motion of the stars). With a 36.2 megapixel full-frame sensor, it also looks to be a good alternative to the normal full-frame big boys. The trade-offs? Less-than-average continuous shooting and sluggish data transfer, so it won’t be the fastest in its price range. From R34 999. kameraz.com DON’T MISS THIS Two giants of SA photography exhibit together in a joint show for the first time this month. David Goldblatt and Peter Magubane will be showing some of the most…

• Pop into SMAC Gallery in Church Street to check out the latest exhibition. • Try the gourmet waffles and handmade ice cream, with flavours such as rooibos, banana bread and butter pecan, at Creme de Levain in Dorp Street. • Browse for books at Verbatim, the charming secondhand bookstore on the corner of Dorp and Andringa streets. • Get some fresh air at Jonkershoek Nature Reserve, which has five hiking routes and various biking trails (avoid The Plumber if you’re a novice). • Visit the Dylan Lewis Sculpture Garden, on the slopes of Stellenbosch Mountain. • Watch Indian runner ducks patrol the vineyards for pests at Vergenoegd Löw Wine Estate.…

1 Butter a slice of bread and place it butter-side down in the jaffle iron. 2 Assemble your filling on top of it – this way you can ensure that you do not ‘overstuff’ your jaffle and that everything fits in the circle. 3 Butter another slice of bread and place it on top of the filling, butter side on the outside, and pinch the iron closed. 4 Use a serrated knife to trim off the corners of the bread sticking out from the edge of the jaffle iron. 5 Toast for about six minutes (three minutes a side) on medium-hot coals, over a gas ring or directly on a stovetop plate until golden-brown and crisp. 6 The cooked jaffle should slide out of the iron easily when it’s opened…

1 ANTI-THEFT BACKPACK WITH USB CHARGING PORT R450, iconix.co.za Fend off wandering hands in airports with this simple backpack that has a concealed zipper. It’s not as practical as a normal backpack as items are more tricky to access, but that’s the point if you want to thwart pickpockets. There are padded compartments inside the bag for tech devices, and the integrated charging port conveniently connects to your own powerbank inside the bag while you charge your device outside it. 2 AMERICAN TOURISTER ROAD QUEST 55CM DUFFLE WITH WHEELS R1 999, houseofsamsonite.co.za This is nothing like the quality of the Samsonite duffel (see item 10), but it does tick all the right boxes for a carry-on bag. It’s large enough to hold your belongings…

Malebohang Letsika, potter ‘In my spare time, I’m at the Clay Café making something new. Come have a milkshake or a coffee and look at what we sell.’ 073-833-6068 Mari Small, chef ‘I spend most of my time out of town, but when I have a bit of time during my shift I’ll take a walk through the garden at Walkerbouts [there’s a secret chair worth looking out for].’ walkerbouts.co.za Sean de Wet, retiree ‘Most Wednesdays [between November and February] the locals get together for Bring and Wine in the park on the Bell River. “Wine/whine” is spelt differently depending on what kind of a weekend it’s been.’ From 6pm. Entrance is free.…

GOT YOUR PACK R2 199, capeunionmart.co.za This no-frills Pioneer 65L backpack is one of the latest in the K-Way range. It has all the basic features one generally looks for in a rucksack: loops for attaching trekking poles, space for a hydration pack, adjustable straps (aluminium rods lining the back of the pack provide support), a rain cover and side and top pockets. It also has an emergency whistle and a zip at the bottom of the bag for easy access. A LIGHT DINNER R289, adventureinc.co.za From stirring coffee to eating couscous, this three-piece Sea to Summit AlphaLight cutlery set (176g) has you covered when every gram you’re carrying counts. Despite being so light, the utensils are made from hard-anodised, aircraft-grade aluminium for lifelong…