Table of contents for February 2018 in delicious

SUMMERTIME, AND THE EATING is easy. There’s seafood on the barbecue and a spritz at hand. The days are long and there is never a better time to entertain. Yet it’s also a season when we look to take time out from festive excess. Deprivation has never been our thing at delicious. , and everything we do has to taste great. But the most exciting development in recent years is that it’s never been easier to make healthy-ish feel delicious. In fact, eating health-fully has never been so, dare I say it, indulgent. Our line-up of experts prove it’s possible in this issue, from seafood feasts to super-grain salads, friendly fermenting to Asian flavours, and wholesome baking or grilled stone fruits right through to popsicles minus the refined sugar. And…

1 & 16. Jardan ‘Uashmama Blues’ placemats in blue, $18, jardan.com.au 2. Cultiver linen table napkins in blush, dusk, indigo stripe and indigo (set of 4), $50, cultiver.com.au 3. Ferm Living black towel hanger, $58, designstuff.com.au 4. Utopia Goods pure linen napkin in eucalypt dusk (set of 2), $38, utopiagoods.com 5. Bonnie & Neil ‘Inky Leaf Blue’ napkin (set of 6), $125, bonnieandneil.com.au 6. Walter G ‘Marble Blues’ 150cm x 280cm cotton tablecloth, $150, walter-g.com.au 7. Bonnie & Neil ‘Mosaic Best Pink’ napkin (set of 6), $125, bonnieandneil.com.au 8. Cultiver small linen table cloth, $145, cultiver.com.au 9. Walter G ‘Yoko’ indigo napkin (set of 4), $49.50, walter-g.com.au 10. White bowls and plates, stylist’s own 11. Hay spinning top, $32, hayshop.com.au 12. Lightly ‘Earth’ vase in white, $50, lightly.com.au 13. Aqua Door Designs ‘Blush Ink Splatter’ linen tablecloth, $159, aquadoordesigns.com 14. Bonnie &…

POKE IS A RAW FISH SALAD usually served as an appetiser in Hawaiian cuisine. Traditionally, it includes native limu , a type of seaweed, and roasted ground candlenut. I tried poke for the first time when I visited Hawaii a few years ago. It was served from a food truck and made using the freshest ahi (yellowfin) tuna available. On a warm day, it was exactly what I wanted for lunch – something light and fresh. Since then, poke has exploded in popularity around the world and now comes in many variations. In Hawaii, walk into any supermarket and you’ll see at least half a dozen types – poke with soy sauce, octopus poke with wasabi, salmon poke with fish roe, vegetarian avocado poke, tuna poke with kimchi, and everything…

WHY RASPBERRIES ARE THE KING OF BERRIES We’re engaged in the annual berry wars when, variously, red, black, burgundy and pink fruit clamour for attention. The other day at the supermarket, a punnet of raspberries took me aside, suggesting its contents were the elegant supermodels of the berry world and that strawberries were “as common as muck”. Reprinted here for the first time is the crux of the raspberry’s compelling argument for why it is the king of berries*. RASPBERRIES WANT TO MAKE YOUR LIFE EASIER, STRAWBERRIES COULDN’T GIVE A STUFF You can use raspberries straight from the punnet. Strawberries still have those tedious little leaves to remove. PENTHOUSE OR PAVEMENT? Strawberries grow on the ground in the mud; raspberries grow on canes, making them easier to pick, as well…

CHINESE NEW YEAR is the most significant holiday in China, and in places across the world with significant Chinese populations. Although festivities and customs vary from one region of the country to another, one constant is the tradition of each family thoroughly cleaning their house to sweep out any lingering bad vibes from the old year, and make way for coming good fortune. Another is family feasting; families gather on the evening before Chinese New Year for their annual reunion dinner. Highly anticipated, this meal is meticulously planned. Houses are decorated with plenty of red (lanterns, table runners, flowers), as red is thought to scare off Nian, the Beast of Bad Fortune. Dishes associated with the meal heave with symbolism; for example, dumplings (shaped like ingots, they represent wealth), noodles…

PEACH, CARROT & WALNUT CAKE WITH CREAM CHEESE ICING SERVES 8 500g ripe yellow peaches, chopped, plus extra thinly sliced peaches to serve 270g coarsely grated carrot 1 cup (220g) caster sugar 2 tsp vanilla bean paste 50g finely chopped walnuts, plus extra chopped toasted walnuts to serve 1/4 tsp ground cardamom 2 tsp ground ginger 2 tsp ground cinnamon 4 eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup (250ml) sunflower oil 125g sour cream 31/3 cups (500g) self-raising flour, sifted Freeze-dried raspberries, to serve CREAM CHEESE ICING 125g unsalted butter, softened 2 cups (240g) pure icing sugar 500g cream cheese, softened 1 tsp vanilla extract Preheat oven to 160°C. Grease 2 x 20cm round cake pans. Line with baking paper. Whiz peach in a food processor to a coarse puree. Transfer to…

 STEAMY, LOUD AND SCENTED with char kway teow sizzling in smoking woks, the Malaysian city of Kota Kinabalu is an intoxicating hub. Tourists flock to this melting pot (at 90 per cent humidity, this is literally the case) on the island of Borneo for its bustling markets and old-world charms, but I’m here to board the Crystal Symphony. We’ll be cruising the Malay Archipelago, the sprawling island chain between Indochina and Australia, and retreating into a Zen calm. Crystal Cruises is one of the industry’s most awarded luxury cruise companies. It takes just a few moments to discover why. My private butler, Paolo, immediately pours me a glass of Billecart-Salmon brut (my favourite – how did he know?) as I explore my tastefully decorated penthouse suite. A queen-size bed is…

There is so much to love about Puglia, the less-travelled region on the heel of Italy with sun-drenched coastlines facing the Adriatic and Ionian seas. Daily life moves slowly – the ideal rhythm to recharge, reflect and reinvigorate, being mindfully in the present and taking time to breathe, to take it all in. Amid dramatic landscapes is imposing architecture – from the conical-shaped trulli houses to the majestic restored masseria (farmhouses) – reflecting its ancient ties to Greece and Byzantium. There’s a real diversity to the region, whether it’s the beautiful Baroque city of Lecce; the stunning coastal towns of Polignano al Mare, Otranto and Santa Maria di Leuca; the charm of Alberobello and Noci; or the iconic whitewashed hilltop town of Ostuni. The people couldn’t be more genuinely friendly…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS PHOTO OF THE MONTH Made Yotam Ottolenghi’s pistachio and rosewater semolina cake (November 17, p 116). It certainly didn’t disappoint! #makeitdelicious@ingrid.j.p LONG DISTANCE: My best friend and I share our love of delicious. through gifted subscriptions. We live on opposite sides of the country, but chat about the recipes we’ve made. Thank you for being more than just a gorgeous food mag and making the tyranny of distance more bearable. Bonnie McBeath DAILY DOSE: Thank you for all the hard work that goes into making delicious. possible. I’ve been subscribing for a number of years now and I’m still impressed with the quality and content of the magazine. Recently, I renewed my subscription and, as a result, received the delicious. daily cookbook. I love it and used it last…

STEAMED EGGPLANT WITH SOY AND SESAME SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE 2 x 500g eggplants, quartered lengthways 1/2 cup (125ml) light soy sauce 1/4 cup (60ml) dark soy sauce 2 tbs brown sugar 1 tbs Chinese rice wine (shaohsing – from Asian food shops) 1 tsp sesame oil 4cm piece (20g) ginger, finely grated 2 spring onions, shredded Toasted white sesame seeds, to serve In 2 batches, place eggplant in a steamer over a saucepan of simmering water and steam for 15 minutes or until tender. Set first batch aside, covered with foil, on a tray and repeat with remaining eggplant. Meanwhile, combine light and dark soy, sugar, rice wine and sesame oil in a small saucepan over high heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium and…

LEFTOV ER carrots BEING THOUGHTFUL WITH how we feed our families is a small step we can all take to create a better food world. Easy access to food is a great privilege – reducing food waste is about respect for the produce and the farmer. My carrot soup recipe is the perfect way to extract the most nutrients by using the tops, the peel… the whole vegetable. To make, wash carrot tops from 1 bunch baby (Dutch) carrots in iced water. Finely chop 3/4 of the tops (save leftover tops for salad) and mix with 3 tsp extra virgin olive oil, 1/2 clove crushed garlic and finely grated zest of 1 lemon. Place carrot peel in a saucepan with 1 star anise, a pinch of caster sugar,…

LA VIOLETTA PATIO PÉT NAT 2017, $32 How could you not invite a wine named ‘Patio’ to your good times barbecue? Irresistible! This is a crisp, lightly fizzy white with a good slug of green apple juice tang and a refreshing belt of zingy citrus character. Be sure to apply liberally, everywhere. WILLIE SMITH’S TRADITIONAL CIDER: CIDER APPLE BLEND (750ML), $19 Cider and sunshine go hand-in-hand – it’s hard to think of something more thirst-crushing. This cider, from Tasmanian orchards, is full of juicy, apply fruitiness, but finishes pleasingly dry. Serve over ice. TOTE WINES BAROSSA VALLEY ROSÉ 2017 (1.5L), $30 Rosé is so good at barbies, I’m repeatedly recommending it. Casks might have a certain reputation, but the quality, volume (1.5L), convenience and, here, the stylish packaging, should win…

I’LL ADMIT IT, I initially wasn’t having the best of times at Gazette. Not because of the food, service, lighting or décor. Rather, I was getting my hackles up listening to a pack of well-lubricated wolves bragging about the size of their, erm, portfolios to anyone within howling distance. Sure, I can swear more than a salon full of sailors, but there’s a time and place – the dinner table is neither. Yep, restaurants are full of all walks of life, and it’s hard to blame a venue for rude patrons; unless of course they can’t manage them. But Gazette’s management seemed to take note without fuss, quelling the cacophony of coyotes and focusing on the other guests. Service switched from ‘perfectly fine’ to ‘going the extra mile’ to ensure…

@paulajoye @PaulaJoye WITH A SUCCESSFUL VENTURE – Made By Cow raw milk – and a recent move to fresh digs in Sydney’s Dover Heights, Paula Joye, founder of fashion and lifestyle site thejoye.com, and husband Saxon had double reason to throw a long lunch. Friends joining the couple were Mark Allsopp, CEO of Australia’s Oyster Coast; Social Diary founder Tiffany Farrington; Michael and Karine Johnston, founders of Cold Pressed Foods; and Saxon’s best man Julian Mitton, who works in finance, and his partner Alison O’Brien. The couple’s knack for hospitality shone through. Says Paula: “We love food, love cooking, and always try to make it fun.” That spirit infused the day, with grappalaced cocktails, prosecco spritzers and oysters courtesy of Mark kicking off the celebratory lunch – “any time we…

FERMENTING IS ONE of the oldest methods of food preservation, and it’s having quite the revival due to a growing interest in the probiotic benefits. Put simply, fermentation is the work of friendly yeasts and bacteria converting the sugars in fruits and vegetables into lactic acid, CO2 , acidic acid or alcohol. The process gives us many of our favourite foods, such as yoghurt, sourdough bread, miso paste, and, of course, wine and beer. All of these are rich in the bacteria and yeasts that are so good for digestive health. While there are an increasing number of fermented foods in the shops, making them yourself is surprisingly easy and deeply satisfying. There’s a lot of fun to be had in joining the growing numbers of enthusiasts whose kitchens are…

I LOVE TO BAKE as much as I can at home. In winter, it’ll be fruit tarts or even a good old sticky date pudding, but now that summer’s come round, I’ll make something a bit lighter, like lemon chia cake, or lemon, orange or mandarin curd cake. My favourite, though, is pineapple upside-down cake – it’s that little bit cleaner and fresher for warmer weather. I think it’s important to keep a bit of balance with nutritious, wholesome ingredients. My family enjoy cakes and treats, but they don’t like things too sugary – no one wants to finish a dessert that’s really sickly-sweet. That’s another reason I like pineapple upside-down cake, because it’s got that bit of acidity. It’s not too rich and it’s not going to weigh you…

“ASIDE FROM ONE REMAINING CASINO BUFFET, THE FOCUS HAS MOVED OUTSIDE.” THE GOLD COAST: traditional home of Meter Maids, Cocktails & Dreams nightclub, the Coolangatta Gold and, for 2018, The Logies (though many would argue the Gold Coast should always have been its spiritual home). It’s long been a sparkling sort of place. However, a reinvigorating change is in the salty air, courtesy of the Commonwealth Games, coming to the GC in April. Broadbeach, the more stylish cousin to Surfer’s Paradise, has benefited as the hub of extensive development. Central to its transformation is The Star Gold Coast (formerly known as Jupiters Casino) and its neighbour, Pacific Fair. Neither is recognisable from my holidays as a youth. My memories of Pacific Fair include a tired hodgepodge of faded pavers traversed…

1. Williams Sonoma ‘Marble Melamine’ salad plate, $14, williams-sonoma.com.au 2. Pottery Barn ‘Bistro’ outdoor flatware (set of 12), $44, potterybarn.com.au 3. Cultiver linen table napkin in indigo stripe (set of 4), $50, cultiver.com.au 4. Country Road ‘Byron’ picnic basket in charcoal, $179, countryroad.com.au 5. Vueve Clicquot Rich, $93.60, danmurphys.com.au 6. Sachajuan ‘Hair In The Sun’ (125ml), $40, sachajuan.com.au 7. Sea Star Beachwear ‘Beachcomber’ espadrille, $149.95, theiconic.com.au 8. Oliver Peoples sunglasses, $560, oliverpeoples.com 9. Citta ‘Dot’ lunch bag, $39.90, cittadesign.com 10. Zakkia glass drinking straws (set of 6), $29, zakkia.com.au 11. Citta diamond cut acrylic tumblers (set of 4), $34.90, cittadesign.com 12. Until stainless steel lunch box in olive, $69.95, until.com.au 13. fallenBROKENstreet ‘The Straw Bambi’ sun hat, $99.95, fallenbrokenstreet.com 14. Wild Herbary ‘Buzz Off’ all-natural insect repellent, $13, wildherbary.com 15. Collective Sol ‘Roundie’ rug…

SWEET THING It’s always a homemade cake at our place – my grandmother’s caramel tart. Mum is now custodian of the recipe. HIP SIPS My favourite cocktail is a Soho Mule from Soho House in London, with vodka, lime juice and ginger syrup. I also pour Miraval Rosé in summer. HEART OF GLASS I worked with Royal Doulton recently and I’m obsessed with their crystal tumblers for wine. FASHION PLATES I love handmade ceramics, French antique earthenware and precious dinnerware from Astier de Villatte. But for everyday use, we use classic enamel plates from Falcon. They’re great with kids and travel. SILVER LINING I lost some antique silverware from Christofle, unfortunately, but I still have linen napkins and silver napkin rings collected from various French flea markets. NON-NEGOTIABLES Butter and…

TREAT YOURSELF AFTERNOON TEA Prawn spring rolls with classic sweet & sour sauce, p 67 Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Riesling 2017 Chocolate & raspberry roll, p 21 Morris of Rutherglen Classic Liqueur Muscat NV Nectarine, strawberry & basil galette, p 114 Sensi Collezione Moscato d Asti 2015 “You can’t go wrong with crisp riesling and prawns. With two very different sweet dishes, balance the weight of the food with the weight of the wine. A delicate and fragrant moscato and a decadently sweet but fresh topaque hit the spot for both.” Chris Herringe, Buyer, The Wine Society CLEAN EATS MAXIMUM FLAVOUR Steamed eggplant with soy and sesame, p 21 Konpira Maru Admiral Semillon 2017 Coconut & chilli poached chicken with mixed rice, p 86 Krinklewood Wild White 2017…

“Country cooking with a sophisticated edge” is how Rodney Dunn distils the ethos of The Agrarian Kitchen, his revered cooking school and respected eatery in Tasmania’s Derwent Valley. Along with his wife, Séverine Demanet, Dunn founded the educational facility in 2008, attracting scores of students eager for immersion in its seasonal, sustainable farm-based fare. Even the illustrious American chef Alice Waters once praised it as her “dream cooking school made real”. Only a year old, the associated restaurant is already regarded as a Tassie treasure. As the recipes on these pages reveal, Dunn’s affinity for mixing pastoral and polished notes runs deep. Eggplant is steamed, not grilled or baked, an idea he gleaned from a Hong Kong native who visited the school. “We often get blinkered with certain vegetables,” Dunn…

THERE IS A QUIET revolution brewing in the drinks world and it could spell the end of hangovers. Our vigour to sign up to FebFast et al shows an awareness of the benefits of going booze-free. However, outside of these teetotaling months, there is little impetus to abstain, and that’s down to a lack of compelling options in the glass. We’ve all waved away another sparkling water, wishing there was a grown-up, non-alcoholic drink on the menu. It is exactly this scenario in a London restaurant two years ago that inspired British graphic designer Ben Branson to create Seedlip, the world’s first non-alcoholic spirits, on his family farm in Lincolnshire. “I thought, ‘This is nuts, I’m in an amazing restaurant, but why can’t I get a good drink if I’m…

WHAT’S THE PASSWORD? Swordfish. It’s always swordfish. Well, for fans of the Marx Brothers, like yours truly, anyway. The famous scene in their 1932 classic Horse Feathers sees Groucho trying to guess the password to a speakeasy. “I’ll give you a hint,” says Chico. “It’s the name of a fish.” “Is it Mary?” replies Groucho. “Haha, that’s-a no fish!” exclaims Chico. “Really, well she drinks like one.” In true Marx Brothers style, the password is finally revealed as ‘swordfish’. As a mini Huck, swordfish on the barbecue was a true special-occasion food where we’d feast on prawns, salads and, of course, wrap our laughing gear around rich and mildly sweet swordfish flesh. These pelagic billfish descend to great depths during the day, but come to the surface under the cover…

“WITH THE INDULGENCE OF CHRISTMAS OVER, IT’S THE TIME OF YEAR WHEN I COMMIT TO MORE NOURISHING FOODS. AND THAT MEANS WHOLE GRAINS, WHICH ARE PACKED WITH NUTRIENTS. I USE THEM TO BULK OUT FRESH, SEASONAL SALADS OR SUMMER-NIGHT DINNERS FOR A CLEAN, HEALTHY START TO 2018.” EGGPLANT, FENNEL & BURRATA RYE BRUSCHETTA SERVES 6 1 large eggplant, cut into wedges 2/3 cup (165ml) extra virgin olive oil 250g cherry tomatoes on the vine 2 tsp toasted fennel seeds, coarsely ground 1 garlic clove, crushed 1/4 cup (60ml) red wine vinegar 6 slices rye sourdough, toasted 2 tbs finely grated parmesan 1/2 fennel, thinly shaved (we used a mandoline) Burrata and basil leaves, to serve Preheat oven to 200°C. Grease a baking tray and line with baking paper. Arrange…

“WITH SUMMER IN FULL SWING IT’S THE PERFECT TIME TO WHIP UP A SEASONAL DESSERT. I’M TALKING JUICY WATERMELON – THE PERFECT REFRESHER – DELICIOUS, COCKTAIL-INSPIRED ICY POLES, AND CITRUS JELLIES, WHICH ARE SO VERSATILE, YOU CAN SWAP INGREDIENTS FOR YOUR OWN ZESTY COMBO. YUM.” PASSIONFRUIT SEMIFREDDO SANDWICHES SERVES 10 Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. Pulp of 7 passionfruit 400ml thickened cream 4 eggs, separated 45g caster sugar PASSIONFRUIT SAUCE 3 titanium-strength gelatine leaves 1/4 cup (55g) caster sugar Pulp of 18 passionfruit HAZELNUT SPONGE 100g hazelnuts 5 eggs 100g caster sugar 100g unsalted butter, melted, cooled 100g self-raising flour, sifted Grease a 3cm-deep, 30cm x 35cm baking tray and line with baking paper. To make semifreddo, strain passionfruit pulp through a sieve set over a measuring jug.…

“HOWEVER YOU INDULGE YOURSELF, THE FEEL-GOOD VIBE IS HARD TO SHAKE.” THE RUGGED TERRAIN of southwest Sicily is like a sun-drenched moonscape. Inland, Greek and Roman ruins tumble down rocky mountain faces like discarded marbles, while towards the coast, the peaks flatten out into vast plains peppered with wild olive trees and baglio, the island’s iconic stone-walled country estates. It is a world apart from the pastoral postcard of the country’s north and the candy-coloured contours of the Amalfi coast, but Sicily’s appeal lies in its savage beauty. The island’s skin has been scarred by a succession of conquests by the Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Moors, Spanish and French in the form of olive, almond, pistachio and orange trees, grape vines, couscous, cassata and cannoli, and iconic architecture and pottery that…

culture club Discover Italy in an intimate tour group and marvel at its hidden gems with Touring Abruzzo. With personalised itineraries, guests explore the roads less travelled and are immersed in the true culture of the country. Visit: touringabruzzo.com timeless tableware Paying homage to the natural beauty of Italian marble, the Vera Wang Venato Imperial range from Wedgwood showcases the material in its raw state. This dinnerware collection is a timeless classic. Visit: wedgwood.com.au bags of character Saddler & Co. combines timeless design and craftsmanship to create fine leather goods. Made in the Western Plains of NSW, the Travel Range will last a lifetime, as the natural leather gains character as it ages. Visit: saddlerandco.com.au marvellous mayo Lovingly batch crafted from a traditional recipe using free-range eggs and Dijon mustard,…