Table of contents for September 2017 in Wallpaper

Two radically different reference points seem to anchor the autumn/winter women’s Valentino collection; restrained Victoriana co-mingles with the bold, poppy post-modernism of the Memphis Group, the Milanbased design collective, founded in 1981, that included among its members Ettore Sottsass, Andrea Branzi and Matteo Thun. According to Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, this was less a study in contrasts than an exploration of common themes. Both periods are characterised by a shift towards technological progress and a general openness towards consumption,’ he says. The collection, he argues, integrates austere Victorian shapes with the saturated colours typical of Memphis, ‘establishing a new harmony between two distant yet analogue periods.’ It is not the first time Piccioli has spun his work around contrasting cultural references: his first solo effort (after Maria Grazia Chiuri’s…

No building better sums up the passions of its patrons than the new Yves Saint Laurent Museum in Marrakech. Its form evokes the restrained elegance that defined all of the late Saint Laurent’s designs; its modernity satisfies Pierre Bergé, his partner in work and life; and its red brick façade echoes the sun-soaked palette of the country that the pair fell in love with. ‘When we first discovered Marrakech in 1966, we were so moved by the city that we immediately decided to buy a house here,’ explains Bergé. Twice a year, in December and June, Saint Laurent would head to Marrakech for two weeks to design his haute couture collections. His Moroccan hideaway also became a legendary den of hedonism, and in 2002, when he retired, Marrakech became his…

Based in the Ribera del Duero region of northern Spain, Danish winemaker Peter Sisseck is known for the delicately crafted wines he produces under the Pingus label. The same description could be applied to his new home and farmstead, recently completed to a design by Copenhagen’s Henning Larsen Architects. Set in an isolated and picturesque spot in Castilla y León, the farm is around ten kilometres away from the main Pingus vineyards, and now forms part of a symbiotic production system in which every element is carefully considered. ‘We cultivate our grapes biodynamically and in order to do that we need compost for the vineyards,’ explains Sisseck. ‘Most people now use artificial fertilisers, but it’s really important for the vineyards that we stimulate them in an organic way because you…

JIL SANDER FASHION DESIGNER, THE MINIMALIST’S MINIMALIST Wallpaper* subscriber since 1996 We’re cool, calm and collected at Sander’s Hamburg studio, photographed by Elisabeth Toll Share a picture of your Wallpaper* collection using #subscribersince and tagging @wallpapermag Subscribe today at wallpaper.com/sub17 and receive subscriber-only, limited-edition, artist-designed covers, and delivery to your door. Twelve issues for £65. Offer closes 30 September 2017. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

Few technologies have been so extensively foreshadowed as robotics. For nearly 100 years, we’ve indulged in an array of speculative fictions that have defined the form, function and social impact of robots far in advance of the available technology. As a result, automation is treated more as a cultural trope than an economic threat. All the while the robots are fermenting the stealthiest industrial revolution in history. We delved behind the scenes at the London Science Museum’s recent exhibition about our obsession with mechanical life forms. As well as asking the big questions about robotic pasts, presents and futures, the show offers up a rogue’s gallery of android approximations of specialist applications, from healthcare through to entertainment. Popular perception of robots rarely aligns with reality. Large swathes of modern industry…

Newsstand cover Photography: Brigitte Niedermair Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure Coat, £2,750; pumps, £720, both by Calvin Klein 205W39NYC For more on ROSA (Rob’s Open Source Android) the robot and friends, see page 206 One of the reasons that the Japanese have led the charge in robot development and adoption is that there is no modern Promethean myth in Japanese culture, no Frankenstein’s monster (that, and an ageing population who require robo-care). In the West, we still suspect that generating electro-charged life is against nature and will create existential threat; that, Terminator-like, the robot legions will eventually turn against us and pull the plug on their masters. More immediately, we worry that they will take our jobs. This summer I attended the Norman Foster Foundation’s inaugural ‘Future is Now’ conference in Madrid,…

D esigned by architect Claudio Silvestrin for forward-thinking developer Gary Giessing, our location house was built on a constrained site and faced some important planning stipulations, but it certainly isn’t lacking in amenities. From the basement pool and spa, past a multi-level garden by Chelsea gold medallist Chris Beardshaw, all the way up to the rooftop bedroom with City skyline views, it’s the epitome of high-end contemporary residential design. The local council’s demand for a brick façade and continuity have resulted in a very stealthy dwelling at street level. Three materials – stone, oak and bronze – form the core of the house with the Bolzanosourced stone giving the interiors a carved, cave-like quality (albeit one with meticulously precise geometry). The stone, laid by Italian artisans without using grout, has a…

Savile Row may be the heart of men’s tailoring in London, but Australian tailor Patrick Johnson, who recently added a showroom in the English capital to his burgeoning business (including four stores Down Under and one in New York), made a conscious decision to open in Fitzrovia’s Rathbone Place instead. ‘I have a lot of respect for English tailoring, but I’m very different,’ he explains. ‘I like being slightly off the beaten track.’ Though not quite a fashion destination yet, the area brims with trendy eateries and galleries; Facebook will soon move its European HQ into a Make Architects-designed building down the road. ‘I think the area’s on a cusp,’ says Johnson. The choice of location befits the P Johnson brand, which is known for its relaxed approach – think…

Following a sweeping four-year renovation, Paris’ Hôtel de Crillon has recently reopened, and long-time guests and supporters have been returning to find many of the grandest aspects of its hallowed past, dating back more than 250 years, reassuringly unchanged. Yet, as part of its positioning as a ‘21st century palace’, the Rosewood-managed hotel has introduced a new gastronomic restaurant, a brasserie, two suites designed by Karl Lagerfeld, a subterranean pool and a retail space conceived by Parisian journalist and curator Thomas Erber. The space, called La Boutique, is the first permanent home for Le Cabinet de Curiosites de Thomas Erber, a peripatetic concept store that popped up in cities around the world between 2010 and 2015. Erber has upped the ante on other curated pop-up stores by assembling a uniquely…

Mauviel’s classic kitchen utensils are clamoured after by the world’s best kitchens and dining establishments, but it doesn’t stop the Normandy-based copperware specialist from moving with the times and the fresh demands of contemporary kitchens. Its latest collection has been designed by Agence Rev for the Michelin-starred Paris-based chef Jean-François Piège. The hero piece is a square-domed smoker, in which he cooks veal sweetbreads over charred walnut shells. Also in the collection is a fondue set, used to cook meat in a hot broth, and a platter, conceived for a whole duck, but adaptable for other purposes. Currently in use at Piège’s restaurants Clover Grill and Le Grand, the pieces will soon be available to buy from selected Mauviel outlets. mauviel.com PINCH PUNCH When Stoke-on-Trent ceramics specialist 1882 Ltd approached…

Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka’s penchant for material lightness finds new conceptual forms in this series of tables, created in collaboration with Glas Italia. Pushing the boundaries of glass production, the four tables in the ‘Fountain’ series are made of handfinished, poured Murano glass, created using a combination of traditional craft and cutting-edge chiselling techniques. The design mimics the movement of water, offering an organic, poetic flow in solid form, and the tops, also made of poured glass, can be removed, turning them into storage units. TURNING THE TABLES With a vinyl revival in full flow, we need the players back, too. Anything taking up space in our interiors is fair game for the design crowd, who are now grappling once again with the gramophone. Some, such as Shinola (seen here)…

Each uniform has its own silhouette. In terms of a sartorial look, the English uniforms are the best’ F ragments of military design are everywhere. The bomber jacket became standard issue for the US Air Corps in 1931, long before it was a basic item in men’s wardrobes. The peacoat was made popular by the Dutch navy more than three centuries ago and cargo pants were reportedly first worn in the late 1930s by British military personnel. Epaulettes, deep pockets, khaki green, distressed heavy-weight cottons, parka jackets – all borne of the battlefield. In the mid-1990s, iconoclasts such as Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela favoured utilitarian, military details for their collections and army surplus became a streetwear favourite. Andrea Rosso bought and wore second-hand army clothes in the 1990s too. But…

PICKED BY PICKY NICKY: THE SEASON’S BEST DOUBLE-FACED COATS Hermès Véronique Nichanian’s leather-trimmed, wraparound, navy cashmere double-faced coat for Hermès has just the right amount of volume. Helbers Paul Helbers’ two-button, Crombie-style coat is cut from double-faced jersey, available in either heather grey or navy blue. Louis Vuitton Kim Jones’ double-faced vicuña trench. Berluti For his debut at Berluti, Haider Ackermann showed a supple and roomy coat in wool and cashmere. The men’s piece was modelled by Liya Kebede, which underlines how doublefaced works equally well for men and women. Acne The ‘Chad’ three-button, oversized coat in double-faced wool and cashmere. 01 Don’t be weft out in the cold A double-faced coat gives Picky Nicky the edge During Fashion Week, usually the day after a show, the Wallpaper* team visits…

BOUCHRA JARRAR’S 14TH ARRONDISSEMENT 01 & 03 A Mi-Chemin, 31 rue Boulard ‘The first time I went to this restaurant, I was surprised to see Jean-Charles de Castelbajac sitting with his family, having dinner. It was such a joyous place, and it’s become one of my regular spots when I come home late from work. Everything is delicious, and it’s always full.’ 02, 05 & 06 Looks for Lanvin All from the A/W17 collection W*: How long have you known each other? Bouchra Jarrar: Two or three years? Eric Cantona: Yes. BJ: Éric’s wife Rachida [Brakni, an actress and singer] is one of my best friends. She follows my work and I follow hers. I was proud to have them both at my last show, because in fashion today you…

Rolls-Royce doesn’t believe in rushing itself to market. Instead, the Goodwood-based manufacturer takes pride in playing the long game. Its cars have a gravitas and power that comes with longevity – the Phantom has 92 years of history spread over seven generations. Replacing the 13-year-old seventh edition is a tall order. For Giles Taylor, Rolls-Royce’s design director, a new Phantom offered new possibilities. Specifying a modern luxury car is increasingly akin to building a house or a yacht. There are extremes; the company recently unveiled the Sweptail, a one-off coupé built for an extremely well-heeled customer. Rolls-Royce acknowledged it was ‘probably the most expensive new car ever’. This level of personalisation isn’t practical for every Rolls. However, the new Phantom has one feature in particular that blends the company’s burgeoning…

Fresh meat KANTÝNA, PRAGUE This meat-focused emporium’s elaborate 19th-century setting in the Ringhoffer Palace, with original murals and figures by Czech art-nouveau sculptor Jan Štursa, demanded a simple design from architect Rudolf Netík to include custom furniture and copper lighting that mirrors the shapes of the tables. The central blue marble bar offers the perfect setting to sample casual dishes such as beef tartare or a burger. Or, for the full steak experience, take a seat in the restaurant or grab a cut to go from the on-site butcher. Adam Št?ch Politickych V?z?? 5, kantyna.ambi.cz Warm welcome BIENVENUE HOTEL, PARIS Italian job JACKIE BAR, HELSINKI While Jackie’s pizza menu – by Antto Melasniemi, the inventive chef behind Helsinki stalwarts like Ateljé Finne and Putte’s – is a draw, it’s the DJ…