Table of contents for June 2024 in Trail

GET 50% OFF Ordnance Survey All first-time Trail Subscribers get 50% off OS Maps, the Ordnance Survey’s digital mapping ser vice. That’s the equivalent of 607 paper maps in your pocket! PAGE 34 Have we written about Ben Nevis in Trail before? Many times. Have the majority of people reading this magazine already climbed it? Most probably. Do we ever get tired of talking about Britain’s highest mountain and the many excellent routes up it? Absolutely not. And that’s because Ben Nevis isn’t just a big mountain, it’s also a great one. Like many people, I first walked up Ben Nevis via the fairly pedestrian Mountain Track many years ago, back before I knew anything about the mountain’s famous North Face and the spiderweb of fearsome routes that crawl all…

Come late summer, the hills of our land are alive with furious activity, as bees do their best to collect nectar from the pinky/purple flowers of our heather moorlands. But those worldfamous blankets of flowers aren’t how things should be… There’s only one true species of heather in Britain and that’s the one often referred to as ling. The other two common species of heather-like plants – cross-leaved and bell heather – actually belong to a family of plants called ‘heaths’. But for the purposes of this article let’s refer to them all as heathers. Heather favours acidic, nutrientpoor soils, hence the reason it grows so prolifically on our upland moors. If not managed by humankind, heather would be part of the understory of an upland pine/ birch forest, growing…

THE MOUNTAIN TRACK Get this route on your phone There’s no more popular route to the top of Ben Nevis than the Mountain Track, which starts at the base of the peak in Glen Nevis then winds its way up a knee-churning mixture of stone steps, rocky trails, scree slopes, and across a featureless plateau. This is the main hillwalking highway to the summit, and it’s certainly the most straightforward. Some may even say dull. But the views get better and better the higher you climb, stretching first over the neighbouring Mamores then all the way along Scotland’s west coast and out towards the Isle of Skye. ■ Distance: 14km ■n Ascent: 1400m ■ Time: 7-8 hours ■ Start/finish: Achintee, grid ref NN126730 Get this route on your phone THE…

Gill scrambling is huge amounts of fun, but not without risk. Here are some steps you can take to avoid accident and injury. DO consider water levels. When rivers are in spate after heavy rain, a usually easy-going gill scramble can become a no-go torrent. DON’T climb into danger. Research the route (there are lots of good guidebooks) to make sure the gill is climbable and learn where the escape options are. DO tell someone where you’re going. Gills are hidden crevices in the mountains. If you are immobilised and nobody knows you’re there, it could be a long time before you’re found. DON’T forget that water makes things inherently slippery. Rocks in a gill can be treacherously friction-free, so always check your footing carefully. DO assume you‘ll get wet.…

“I have seven children and three of them are autistic with learning disabilities. I love being out on the trails, but due to low income I couldn't afford new kit or race fees. I have run for over 30 years, but with long-term health issues I have slowed down dramatically to a crawl! My son, Mason, is so much faster, but with high anxiety he can’t run on his own as he is highly vulnerable. “Fran has been wonderful in helping me and Mason with new kit for ultra races and training. He is very keen and in a short time has become a good runner. He has been in dire need of some decent kit and Kitsquad were kind enough to send him new shoes, T-shirts, shorts, hat, gloves…

■ ASK AN ANIMAL WOOD ANT FORMICA RUFA Q Who makes those big needle piles I keep seeing in the woods? A Us! Glad you’ve noticed them – we can get them over 2m high with enough time. And that’s just the bit you can see. Underground, it can be over a metre deep and 1.5m across. It’s not just a heap – all those twigs and pine needles are thatched just so, so rainwater runs off and the south side is flatter to get as much of the sun’s warmth as possible. Sometimes it’s built over a decaying tree stump which provides warmth as it rots too. It’s all about keeping the place toasty and dry. ■ PUB QUIZ A: What was Alfred Wainwright’s first published book? B: Who has done…

YOUR TESTER Every good adventure should end with a well-earned, restful sleep – not shivering until 3am in a woefully thin quilt, or tossing and turning all night entrapped in an overly-toasty cocoon. That’s why finding the right sleeping bag is a must before you head off on any wild camping adventure. The 3-season category for sleeping bags covers a broad range of weights and temperatures. Some campers will opt for a warmer 3-season bag and use it year-round, but it may be too warm in summer. Other campers will choose an ultralight 3-season bag ideal for spring and summer, but they may feel too cold in the shoulder seasons. That said, choosing a bag you’ll be warm enough in can be tricky. The comfort and lower limits are the…

'Great Gable! Great Gable!’ It’s like a siren call, isn’t it? You know you’re facing an interminable climb up scree-covered paths and a wobbly-legged descent through a confusion of boulders, but who can resist the lure of that iconic peak? The effort is met with fair reward though – a wonderful sense of satisfaction, a summit worth exploring and some of the best views in all of Lakeland. The complex Scafell group is just a rock’s lob away, and the scene down Wasdale and out to the coast can be savoured by those seeking out the precariously poised Westmorland Cairn. Of course, you won’t have this popular mountain to yourself, but solitude can be found on neighbouring peaks. This route approaches the high fells via a hidden, grassy gully on…

DAY 3 12 NO022997 From The Hutchinson Memorial Hut, retrace your steps back up to Loch Etchachan. Head straight through the crossroad paths, with the loch on your left. Take the path along this broad col and descend on the left side of the Allt nan Stacan Dubha. From here the splendour of Loch Avon opens up before you. Continue to The Shelter Stone. This huge monolith of rock has housed many a famous mountaineer and no doubt saved a few lives. The tank-sized granite boulder is in the middle of the huge boulder field that sits in front of the Shelter Stone crag to your left from the main path. A slight detour from the path that descends away from the Allt nan Stacan Dubha takes you there. It’s…

DAY 2 6 SO180232 The start of Day 2 re-ascends the minor lane heading east, for 400m, before turning right into a track leading to building ‘Pentwyn’. Again, heading east, ascend a public footpath uphill to gain Open Access hillside and the Beacons Way National Trail footpath. This route skirts along the foot of Pen Cerrig-calch above, for 6.4km (4 miles) with numerous small ascents/ descents as the path traces its way towards the remains of an ancient Iron Age hill-fort, Crug Hywel. 7 SO225207 Crug Hywel is commanding position for a hill-fort, with expansive views over the town of Crickhowell and south-east to the iconic Sugar Loaf mountain. Take a walk on to the top of the hill-fort to appreciate its position and steep flanks. Depart to the north-east…

CLIMB A STAR OF THIS ISSUE P16 An ascent of Carn Mor Dearg brings with it epic views of Ben Nevis’s brutal North Face. There’s a lot to see – if you know where to look. The most expansive views into Ben Nevis’s ridiculously rugged North Face come while climbing The Ben’s next door neighbour, Carn Mor Dearg. After parking at the North Face car park and heading up through steep forest paths, the trees eventually end and you enter into the jaws of the two mountains. A thin path breaks off south-east to the left, and the ascent of Carn Mor Dearg starts for real. Views like those in the pic come pretty much as soon as you start climbing and just keep coming. Keep looking in the Ben’s…

The UK’S most prestigious mountain photo competition is back for 2024! In celebration of the beauty, wonder and awe we experience in the mountains, this year’s judges will be looking for images that capture those special mountain moments Martin Hornsey snapped last year’s winning shot (pictured here) from his wild camping view of the Langdale Pikes on his Samsung S20 phone, so you don’t need to be a professional photographer with pro kit to win. You simply need to get out into the mountains to capture the experience, and your image could be chosen as Mountain Photo of the Year! To find out how to enter, and be in with a chance of winning some incredible prizes from Fujifilm, see below right.…

WILD SLEEPS THIS MONTH Moel Hebog Mynydd Drwsy-Coed Cnicht Yr Aran Yr Eifl TRAIL 100 BIV V Y COUNT: 89/100 Artificial intelligence could possibly write this article better than me (although I don’t like its poem), and soon AI will exist in robots capable of all human actions. But will the robots go wild camping? I ask my imaginary robot (Bivbot) what he thinks of our camp on Moel Hebog as I look out at the serene blue mountains. Majestic peaks stretch into the sky, their azure hues blending seamlessly with the atmosphere. Distant mountains creating layers of depth, gradually fading to a lighter shade. Wisps of white clouds dance around the summits, completing the vivid blue spectacle. Bivbot replies, “Some people find sunsets breathtaking and serene, but I don’t…

BEN NEVIS Satistics; for some they mean everything, for others nothing. Ben Nevis is Britain’s highest peak, that’s undeniable. But there’s more to the beached whale of the Highlands than slogging up the Mountain Track. There’s a route that’s as undeniably good as the mountain is tall, and it’s the CMD Arête; one of the finest mountain days to be had anywhere on this island of ours. Ben Nevis is big – 1344m or 1345m if you’re on the summit cairn. That’s a huge hill for Britain. What’s more, there’s no cheating that height, as it all has to be climbed from whichever way you approach the mountain. And remember, it rises from the shores of a sea loch (Loch Linnhe), and sea lochs tend to reside at sea-level. So…

SNOWDONIA Nestled in the southern folds of the Nantlle Ridge, Cwm Pennant is surely one of the most beautiful and tranquil valleys in all of Eryri (Snowdonia). There’s a good reason for that. There’s only one road in and one road out. It’s the same road. This means it has remained quiet and unspoilt – certainly compared to bustling Ogwen or Nant Gwynant, where these days even a 6am start doesn’t guarantee you a parking spot. Cwm Pennant’s location in the west of the National Park has also helped preserve its peace. While seasoned walkers are drawn to the Nantlle Ridge and Moel Hebog, most tourists and day-trippers tend to ignore the area in favour of Yr Wyddfa’s (Snowdon’s) well-trodden paths. One well-known walking routes website has even labelled this…

Kitsquad accepts donations of almost any functional outdoor/ adventure gear, but not large family camping set-ups. All you need to do is parcel it up and send it to Unit 49B, Atcham Business Park, Atcham, Shropshire, SY44UG. Find out more at kitsquad.co.uk/getinvolved HOW TO RECEIVE If you are in receipt of means-tested benefits, such as Universal Credit, you can apply for clothing and equipment from Kitsquad. Postage is free of charge but if you are able to make a donation to cover the cost of the courier, that helps. Fill in the form at kitsquad.co.uk/apply-for-gear…

A gooey delight! A pot of warm, velvety cheese infused with the richness of your favourite beer. A smoky spice mix uplifts this dish, providing a smoky flavour that works superbly with mature cheese and beer. PREP TIME: 5 mins // Cook time: 10 mins // Serves: 2 INGREDIENTS ■ 200g grated mature cheddar ■ 165g cream cheese ■ 3 garlic cloves minced ■ 1 tbsp Camping Season Smoky Spice Rub (see substitute below) ■ 1 cup of beer (we use Adnams Broadside) ■ 1 tsp Dijon mustard ■ 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce ■ 1 handful of chopped chives ■ 1 crusty white bloomer loaf If you haven’t got the spice rub include: 1 tbsp smoked paprika / 1-2 tsp oregano / 1-2 tsp dried chilli flakes METHOD ■ Melt…

■ B1 BURLINESS One of the most immediately noticeable things about the TRK Pro GTX is that it feels significantly stiffer than the non-Pro version. That’s because it’s a B1 rated boot, meaning it’s firm enough for use above the snowline in winter and capable of taking a flexible C1 crampon if required. This does make it a little less light and nimble feeling than the previous TRK GTX, and comfort levels are eroded slightly – but only slightly. But it’s reassuring to know that these are boots that can be used all year around – including when there’s snow on the ground. ■ LOAD CARRYING This new boot features the same anti-foot fatigue technology found in the TRK GTX, but in the TRK Pro GTX this is augmented by…

Hidden up an otherwise unremarkable valley in the Bleaklow massif is one of the finest scrambling arenas in the Peak District. The National Park, littered with giant gritstone boulders and laced with escarpments that drop into fissured edges, is renowned for the quality of its climbing. Several world-class athletes live within easy reach of it for exactly this reason. And though scrambling routes can be found here too they are not as plentiful – which makes Alport Castles particularly special. Carved between two spurs of grassy moorland is this 300m long landslip – an amphitheatre of crumbling gritstone with an arresting tower at its centre and peregrine falcons nesting in the crags. The edge itself is damp and unstable, suitable only for ice climbing after a long, hard freeze but…

TRAIL MAGAZINE 5 North-west Highlands MOUNTAIN HORSESHOE What a difference a metre makes! Ten years ago Sgurr nan Ceannaichean above Achnashellach in Wester Ross dropped from being Scotland’s most minimal Munro to our third-tallest Corbett. And instead of half a neat little Munro ridge walk, Moruisg turned into a steep trudge from roadside to summit and a steep trudge back down again. But we’re not mere Munro-baggers, are we? So add back in that downgraded-no-more Munro. After a bit of peat and bog myrtle, almost obligatory here in Scotland’s far northwest, this preliminary hill gets you a remote and rocky little corrie, an airy spurline, and some splendid sea views. The linking ridge is airy but undemanding, although it lacks the big trodden path it used to have when both ends of…

DAY 1 1 NH985074 From the Sugar Bowl car park turn left and head up the road to the bend. Cross the road to a path that runs south through the edge of The Queens Forest, the path descends south to the attractive ‘Utsi’s’ bridge across the Allt Mor. Continue right on the path after the bridge and up the slope to the crest of the Allt Mor ravine, then turn sharp left (south). Follow a good path that traverses the river ravine before descending left into the upper reaches of the ravine to the Coachan Dubh a’ Chadha. The Coachan Dubh a’ Chadha is easily crossed in most conditions, but be aware of fast-flowing water after heavy rain. Head south-west on an obvious path through moorland towards the Chalamain…

DAY 3 11 SO287276 Depart Llanthony Priory and re-cross the road, returning to the footbridge to access the public footpath that rises through fields and into the steep-sided valley of Cwm Bwchel. Follow a wooded and steep trail alongside the stream, until the ground levels out above 480m, and a more gradual slope gains the ridge at Bal Bach. 12 SO273266 Turn right to follow a well-used path along the ridge towards the summit of Bal Mawr and along the shapely, heather covered ridge to the summit of Chwarel y Fan, an old quarry site. 1km beyond this summit, a cairned junction offers a northerly descent route to Capel-y-ffin. 13 SO250301 Descend for 700m in distance and below the 550m contour, the rocky path descends very steeply, losing over 100m…

■ YOU! We’ll be giving you the chance to vote for your favourite image once the final shortlist has been chosen, and the public vote will count as one of the five final votes alongside our four judges. ■ NADIR KHAN An acclaimed adventure sports photographer and filmmaker who specialises in mountains, Nadir’s photography is published in Extreme Scotland and Extreme Lakeland. ■ KAT LAWMAN Winner of Mountain Photo of the Year 2022 with her shot of the stars aligning on Snowdon, Kat is a qualified ML, photographer and bookkeeper! @overthe mountainsunderthestars ■ TOM BAILEY Trail’s long-serving photographer has probably captured every mountain in Britain, and specialises in documenting people’s experiences in the outdoors. ■ LOUISE PARKER After several decades as Trail’s art editor, Lou knows everything there is to…

LAKE DISTRICT It might seem hypocritical to bemoan the business of the Lake District. Month after month, year after year, we extol the virtues of England’s most mountainous National Park in these very pages, encouraging folks just like you to go there and enjoy it. We’d like to think we do so in a manner that encourages responsibility and respect for the fells, but still, we’re hardly in a position to complain if there are a few more people wandering I around the Cumbrian hills as a result. But most of us prefer peace, quiet, and a touch of solitude to accompany our exploration of the fells. The good news is that it’s still possible to find those elements. The first thing to do is set your sights on a…

GEAR AID “I never thought that it would happen to me,” says Fran Pearson. “I went from feeling very safe and secure, following my life plan, to living on benefits in social housing.” Fran is the founder of Kitsquad, a charity which collects outdoor gear from people who have a surplus and distributes it to people who wouldn’t otherwise be able to afford it. “Most charities, when you dig into it, are founded by people who have suffered from the very thing they’re campaigning about,” she says, “and that’s just the same for me.” Fran was married and working as a psychologist for the NHS, living in a four-bed detached house, when her daughter, Penny, was born. “I knew within 24 hours that something wasn’t quite right,” she says. At…

WHAT’S THE BEST TRICK YOU’VE LEARNED FOR AN EFFICIENT CAMPING TRIP? MATT LE VOI WML, RCI & Director of Lakeland Mountain Guides lakelandmountainguides.co.uk When you get your tent out to pitch it, peg it down at one end first to save it blowing away whilst sorting the poles. JAMES FORREST Adventurer & author of Mountain Man jamesmforrest.co.uk Pack your backpack, then unpack it, lay everything out on the living room floor, ditch half of it and re-pack. As an ultralight enthusiast, I've always found that a minimalist and lightweight backpack makes me a happy hiker and camper. ROB JOHNSON WMCI, IML & Co-Director of Expedition Guide expeditionguide.com Only go camping when the weather forecast is good:-) WILL NICHOLLS WMCI, Lead MCI at Plas y Brenin pyb.co.uk For me it's just…

Load-hauling backpack If you’re covering big distances with a heavy load, you’ll need a pack that’s up to the task. Osprey’s Atmos/Aura (men’s/women’s) AG 65 (£300) is one of the most comfortable load luggers we’ve tried, thanks to its exceptional AntiGravity suspension harness system. If you want an equally good carry but are happier with a more streamlined pack, the Atmos/Aura LT AG 65 (£245) might be even better. Perfect poles Taking some of the weight off your feet and legs and helping with balance on trickier terrain, a pair of poles is an essential for long-distance hiking. There is a magnificent array available, from the relatively basic to the eye-openingly high-tech, but for covering long distances in comfort, the carbon Pacerpole Dual Lock (£127 pair) gets our vote. Cushioned…

Valleys seldom outshine the summits and ridges that define them. Cwm Gwesyn is an exception. This gem of a walk explores mid Wales at its remote finest, tracking easily at first, through a stunning cwm that cuts deep into the Cwmdauddwr Hills. The going gets tougher with almost every step though, and the path runs out completely near the head of the valley. Boggy, tussocky ground takes over and makes hard going of the final few kilometres to the summit of Drygarn Fawr. It’s a summit worth fighting for though, crowned with two massive pudding-shaped cairns, as well as a more traditional concrete trig point, and with amazing views in all directions. At 645m, Drygarn Fawr is also the tallest of the Cwmdauddwr Hills and Welsh summit number 90 –…

DAY 2 7 NN981958 From Corrour Bothy continue your journey across the Lairig Ghru, taking the south-east path across the foot bridge towards the slopes of Carn a Maim. Take a left due north and handrail the River Dee for about 1km, passing the large plaqued Clach nan Taillear (stone) then continue for 400m to the path rising right (north) up towards the slopes toward Ben Macdui. 8 NN982969 From the path junction you have two options – either continue towards Allt Clach nan Taillear (Tailor’s Burn) and handrail a path at the side or head up right (east) to the wide col at 805m between Carn a Mhaim and Ben Macdui, then ascend south of the burn and north-east up a broad shoulder. Both options present boulder fields and…

DAY 1 1 SO184366 Depart Wye Glamping site, taking the lane heading south-east from The Three Horseshoes pub. A public bridleway soon departs on the left, going through the south-west slopes of Hay Forest. Pass through Maes-y-lade (outdoor centre) and turn right on to a minor lane, ascending uphill to open ground. Continue using a public footpath heading for the ridgeline in front of you. At approx 420m, this footpath swings to your left to create a large zigzag, ascending towards the ridge. The path improves with height, with the final section following a groove in the hillside. 2 SO220346 Arrive at a distinct ridgeline. Turn right towards Rhos Dirion, along a grassy ridgeline less than 1.5km away. This route now follows the Cambrian Way until Pen Allt-mawr. A trig…

KEY FACTS Fleetwith Pike’s summit is a bit of an outlier. The mountain itself is surrounded by the great and the good of the Buttermere fells, but its summit is not on the way to any of them. You could, for example, bag ever-popular Haystacks – to which Fleetwith Pike is directly linked – without ever setting foot on Fleetwith Pike. Even if, rather than from the shores of Buttermere, you were to start your journey from the Honister Pass – a route which puts Fleetwith Pike immediately in your way – you’re only obliged to skirt its shoulder, bypassing its summit by a kilometre. What’s our point? Quite simply that, if you’re going to Fleetwith Pike’s summit, it’s because you want to go to Fleetwith Pike’s summit. And if…