Table of contents for Thirty-Eight: August/September 2023 in ROVA

The road opened up ahead like a pair of French doors, the world unfurling itself before me. I pedaled my bike under a blue sky marred only by fl uff y clouds and castles on faraway hilltops. It was June, and the fourth day of a weeklong solo bike tour I'd planned during Italy's famous COVID-19 lockdown. I had left on the fi rst morning we were allowed to leave our houses, and I should've been over the moon. Instead, I felt lonely. I chugged up scenic Passo dei Mandrioli, pining over who I could've invited to join me instead of enjoying expansive views across lush valleys and endless strings of mountains. Loneliness is the language none of us ever had to learn. It permeates gender, culture, and place. Luckily,…

There was excitement—and concern—from friends and family when I shared my plans to relocate to the remote wilderness of New Mexico. They worried because I was traveling alone, and wondered if my 1997 Toyota Corolla could make the 2,400-mile journey. I assured them that she was roadworthy, but welcomed a once-over from my dad just to be sure. I had recently graduated from college, but wasn't gaining much traction in my art career. It was also around the 2008 financial crisis, so the future was uncertain for many. Looking for direction, I thought back to my experience a few months prior as an artist in residence at Petrified Forest National Park. The two-week residency provided much-needed inspiration, and opened my eyes to life in the National Park Service. I got…

It felt like I was the middle of a snowstorm. Only it wasn't snow that was pelting my face and obscuring my vision. It was sand. Millions of tiny sand particles being blown by ferocious winds across the tallest peak in Kelso Dunes, the majestic sand dune range in Mojave National Preserve. My goal was the top of the peak. A couple ahead of me who had turned around before they reached the top stopped to warn me about going any farther. The scarves wrapped tightly over their faces to protect against the blowing sand, and the screamingly loud wind, meant that I could barely hear them. Nevertheless, I decided to push on, cinching down the hood of my parka and securing my sunglasses as curling banners of sand streamed…

MN As one of the fastest growing water sports, paddleboarding has become one of the most popular ways to experience Minnesota’s many lakes. Gliding across lakes and rivers standing (and sometimes sitting) on a board resembling a surfboard can be a fun workout or a great way to enjoy sunsets with friends. Whether you’re a beginner or looking for a challenge, here are seven great paddleboard locations. 1. Bear Head Lake State Park, Ely Surrounded by towering pines, Bear Head Lake is a relatively calm and peaceful place to paddleboard in northern Minnesota. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to spot wildlife along the shore or hear a loon family calling to each other, the sound echoing off the trees. The park offers paddleboard rentals at $10 per hour. 2.…

There is an unshakable allure to the magic that is Maine. My opinion is a humble one, shaped by personal adventures attempting to tame the state's wild coast and losing (rather, finding) myself in the warm light of the woods—but I will firmly stand by my position that this magic is raw, real, and decorated with surprises around every turn of the trail or curve of a cove. I had greatly underrated and underestimated Maine until I drove my van across its border, greeted by a “Welcome Home” etched onto the state sign, accompanied by a saying that I would soon come to better understand: “The Way Life Should Be.” If Maine is calling, I can only tell you to listen. I did, and the stories haven't stopped writing themselves…

Comfort in the Driver's Seat Nothing is more annoying than driving for what feels like forever, only to find that the hours spent behind the wheel have left you stiff, sore, and unable to enjoy your destination. Save your spine with the Simply Seat Cushion from Purple—a mattress brand that knows a thing or two about comfort. Hidden under the easyto-clean, no-slip cover is Purple's classic colorful grid, which cushions your tailbone and keeps you cool and comfortable. The low-profile Simply Seat Cushion is a durable, hypoallergenic posterior-protector, so you can focus on the road and your next adventure, not on aching bones and tight muscles. purple.com A Recipe for Inspiration Rejuvenate your cooking and get inspired to plan a road trip to Canada with Feast: Recipes and Stories from…

Whether you want to head out for a weekend or spend months on the road, every square foot in a van counts. An adventure-ready rig means you never have to hold back, and it gives you the chance to explore parts of the world that few people will ever experience. What to Consider Price The sky is the limit when it comes to pricing on adventure rigs. You can save a ton buying used, especially if you're looking to do a DIY conversion. If you're handy (or willing to become handy), you can save a pretty penny and still have a rig done to your exact specifications. If you've seen camper conversion videos on YouTube—and I know you have—you'll know that anyone can build out a simple rig themselves if…

When you're a roving traveler with a love of fishing, America is a great place to combine your love of the open road with the excitement that comes with incredible angling opportunities. From Alaska's salmon rivers to Colorado's mountain lakes, Louisiana's coastline and New York's great lakes, let's take a look at some unique locations with some of the finest fishing in the United States, all with different and distinct backdrops. Each of these locations is paradise for fisherfolk, and will leave you with memories that will far outlast the excitement of your first (of hopefully many) bites. A visit to any of these locales might deliver a new annual trip destination that you look forward to each year, or an addition to your cross-country tour itinerary. Or maybe it'll…

Although they're ubiquitous on the road, fifth wheels are not the first things that come to mind when many people talk about RVing. They're the odd ones out in the market, with their strange-looking hitch setup and roomy layout, and to many, they're a bit of a mystery. Here's everything you need to know about fifth wheels. Why is it Called a Fifth Wheel? In the 19th century, wagons and coaches were the favored vehicles for moving families, shipping mail and cargo, working the farm, and transporting passengers, and there were as many different designs as there were uses for them. The “simple farm cart” was anything but, requiring precise joinery and complex linkages. You didn't just hammer one together over a weekend. One of the ways in which coaches…

I was confused. “Where did everyone go?” I asked myself. Just 20 minutes prior, I had been hiking with friends and family in the longest slot canyon in the world; however, the lunch spot was now devoid of people and noise. I had Buckskin Gulch all to myself. I decided that they had hiked up the canyon. Not overly stressed, I marveled at my surroundings. The smoothness of sandstone canyon walls carved by thousands of years of flash floods was simply mesmerizing. I noticed rays of sunlight bouncing off the opposite canyon wall, while darkness obscured the entrance to the slot canyon. This is the wonderment of Canyon Country on the Arizona/Utah border. As I hiked up Buckskin Gulch, my senses remained on high alert. I heard ravens swooping high…

FOUR WHEEL CAMPERS For 63 years, Four Wheel Campers has been making simple, reliable, functional off-road pop-up campers. Perfect for the no-nonsense nomad who is also a no-discomfort nomad, Four Wheel Campers are a cinch to set up (set your timer to two minutes and you'll have time left over), and can tackle most challenging terrain. And once the driving's done, you have ultimate rain and snow protection, as well as a variety of floor plans to suit a range of needs. Four Wheel Campers' loyal customers use their pop-ups for everything: camping in national parks, boondocking on BLM and remote land, and traversing the wilderness of America and beyond. If you travel to a spot that's popular for rock climbing, fishing, surfing, overlanding, skiing or mountain biking, chances are…

How far would you drive for a cold one? We explore a range of far-flung and hidden taprooms that give new meaning to “earning your beers.” Anthony Bourdain famously said that the first thing he did upon arriving in a new place was to visit the central food market. You can learn a lot about a place by its food, he argued. The same could be said about other local establishments; some travelers prefer to hit the visitor's center, a café, or a mom-and-pop business to get the insider intel on a place. But one type of venue really hits the spot if you're looking for the real deal—a welcoming place to park, both literally and figuratively, with plenty of opportunities for conversation and maybe something to fill your stomach.…

Driving up the twisting road through thick rainforests and along cliffs with stunning ocean views, all I could think was that this must be what paradise feels like. My love of trails and the outdoors had taken me to Maui, Hawaii. It was during a transitional year of my career—after a severe lower-back-pain condition, I had taken a break from the corporate world. The only thing that made me feel better was moving—often—so a friend suggested an adventurous bucket-list trip. I liked her idea, and I booked a 10-day trip to Maui. On this trip, I was expecting the heavenly landscape, but not the personal transformation that I experienced. The road travel on this tropical island of solitude went beyond sightseeing; by traveling with purpose, I connected to local culture,…

In the Southwest United States—an enchanting region where desert meets Native American cultures—expect the unexpected. Historic charm combines with artistic expression, and the past effortlessly merges with the present. Veer off the beaten path and explore the Southwest's quirkiest towns, which offer everything from vibrant art scenes to intriguing ghost towns. Get ready for a road trip like no other, awakening your sense of adventure and leaving you yearning for more. Let the exploration begin! 1. Bisbee, Arizona: Steeped in Colorful History and Eccentricity Step into Bisbee, a captivating town tucked into the embrace of the Mule Mountains. Once a bustling mining community, it has transformed into an artist's haven with whimsical streets to wander and shop. Park your rig at the pet-friendly Desert Oasis Campground, where every site has…

Driving into the Great Smoky Mountains National Park on Newfound Gap Road, it's easy to imagine the Southern Appalachians as they were centuries ago. Outside my window, brawny elk and wild turkeys browse meadows edged by dense woodlands, and blooming wildflowers add splashes of seasonal spring color. But, much of the flora and fauna has only returned relatively recently, since the landscape was protected as a national park in 1934. A century ago, most of the hardwood forest shrouding the slopes of the Great Smoky Mountains had been clear-cut. The elk were gone, too, extirpated by the mid 1800s, along with mountain lions, bison, and red wolves. Now, though, nearly 95 percent of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park is forested, and species once driven to extinction have been restored,…