On a pleasant summer evening in 2019, Michelin, the tire company with an inordinate amount of influence over the restaurant industry, gathered the Golden State’s top chefs for the release of its first all-California guide. If you were invited, you were in the club. But at what level, chefs wondered, would they be initiated?
Chef William Bradley was in attendance. Addison, his contemporary French restaurant in San Diego, which he’d led for a decade, seemed poised for two stars. Michelin disagreed: Bradley’s elegant, technique-driven fare earned Addison a spot in the Guide, but at the one-star echelon. While it was a monumental achievement for the San Diego native, there were pangs of disappointment, too. “I thought we could maybe, possibly squeeze out two,” he admits.
In an industry where many…