Table of contents for November - December 2015 in PieceWork

As I write this letter in mid-September, it’s almost 90 degrees outside. But I know winter is on its way—Colorado’s aspens are beginning their grand fall color show, and nighttime temperatures are dipping into the mid-40s. And here we are with our Celebration of Winter issue of PieceWork! In addition to my ever-growing wish list for books, I have one for travel. Jokkmokk, Sweden, has just moved to the top of the list. Laura Ricketts profiles the Jokkmokk Winter Market, an event that has been held continuously since 1605. Once you see the photographs of Per Kuhmunen, the leader of the market’s reindeer caravan, I bet you’ll want to go, too. Per’s wife, Dagny, makes the traditional clothes that he wears during the market, including his hat with its stellar…

The ancient Slavs had their own traditions to celebrate holidays. The Winter Festival was the most fabulous—it was a time when all awaited a miracle, with the hope that this time, the spirits would fulfill their fondest dreams. Before Russian Czar Peter I (1672–1725) decreed that the new year would begin on January 1st, the new year was celebrated at different times: in September; in December, at the Winter Solstice; centuries earlier, in March; and the day of the Spring Solstice. Regardless of when the year officially began, winter was the time for weddings. Beginning in October, young girls and women would gather to spin, knit, and embroider for upcoming weddings. I designed the Winter Festival Shawl, a warm shawl, in honor of this tradition. The shawl was worn on…

The following states, districts, and territories were mentioned in press accounts about the National Suffrage Bazar; the names following are those of committee organizers: Arizona Territory Connecticut, Mrs. Isabella BeecherHooker District of Columbia, Mrs. HelenRand Tindall Illinois, Mrs. Phoebe M. ButlerIndiana, Mrs. Bertha G. WadeIowa, Mrs. Eleanor C. StockmanKansas, Mrs. Annie L. DiggsKentucky, Mrs. Mary C. RoarkLouisiana, Miss Jeannie M. GordonMaine, Mrs. Geo. C. FryMaryland, Mrs. Emma MaddoxFunck Massachusetts, Miss Alice StoneBlackwell Michigan, Mrs. Emily B. KetchamNebraska, Miss Laura A. GreggNew Jersey New Mexico Territory New York, Miss Annie E. MerrittNorth Carolina, Miss Helen MorrisLewis Ohio, Harriet Taylor UptonOregon, Mrs. Abigail Scott DuniwayPennsylvania, Mrs. Mary B. LuckieRhode Island, Mrs. Jeannette S.French South Carolina, Mrs. Virginia D.Young South Dakota, Miss Ida J. MonsonWest Virginia, Mrs. Annie CaldwellBoyd Utah, Mrs. Fewson Smith…

The following was included in the November 8, 1900, edition of The Woman’s Column: SUGGESTIVE LIST FOR CONTRIBUTIONS. Aprons, books, bath robes, blankets, bed slippers, bags—laundry, shoe, shopping, broom, duster, work, money, opera glass; china, conveniences for travellers, canned fruits, carved wood, curios, confectionery, dolls, doylies, dusters, desk fixtures, feather pillows, furniture, glove cases, handkerchiefs, handkerchief cases, household slippers, jellies, knitted shawls, knitted skirts, knitted afghans, knitted teapot holders, kimonas, linen centrepieces, lamp shades, ladies’ underwear, manufactured products, needle-books, pin cushions, pin trays, pillow cases, preserves, pickles, pictures, picture frames, rugs, sofa pillows, sweeping caps, sheets, souvenir spoons, stationery, sachet bags, seeds, toys, twine holders, table linen, towels, table covers, tray-cloths, veil cases, washcloths, writing tablets.…

The association of sunflowers with women’s right to vote may have originated as early as 1849 from the pen name “Sunflower,” used by Elizabeth Cady Stanton (1815–1902) to sign her articles in the suffrage newspaper The Lily. The blossom was an official symbol of the National American Woman Suffrage Association (NAWSA), and throughout the movement, sunflower-yellow ribbons and sashes identified NAWSA members and supporters. The Sunflower Suffrage Shawl is an asymmetrical triangle made in a fancy Tunisian crochet stitch, many variations of which were popular in the nineteenth century. This design takes advantage of Tunisian’s natural bias and tendency to curl. I’ve used traditional crochet to create the beaded sunflowers at the border as well as the lightweight mesh from which the flowers hang, so the blossoms move gently with…

This mitten pattern is based on a pair of Sami mittens I saw in Lulea, Sweden, at the Norrbottens Museum. It is a typical mitten from Karesuando, which is at the farthest northern tip of Sweden. These mittens were originally meant for men. Both Per and Dagny Kuhmunen come from this area. Unlike many of the other Sami mittens I have seen, these Karesuando mittens have a staggered mitten-tip decrease. That is, instead of decreasing at the edges of the mitten, which creates flat mitten fronts, the knitter staggers decreases evenly across the rounds up to the red tips. At that point, regular decreases create a slightly swirled tip. The Karesuando mittens I observed at the museum had patterned thumbs, but Per Kuhmunen’s Karesuando mittens have a thumb in solid…

Mary and Ralph Hays integrated twelve years of research into Fukusa, The Shojiro Nomura Fukusa Collection, the informative catalog they wrote for the 1983 exhibition of fukusa at Mills College Art Gallery in Oakland, California. Among other information, the authors provide symbolic meanings for design elements as they were used on the fukusa shown in the catalog. Although the meaning of some may be easily deciphered—sake vats symbolizing a festive occasion, for example—inferences conveyed by others are more subtle and require a scholar or, in this instance, the authors, to translate them for us. Below is a sampling from Fukusa, The Shojiro Nomura Fukusa Collection (Oakland, California: Mills College Art Gallery, 1983):…

Several past issues of PieceWork have included articles and projects on various Indian embroidery techniques. Linda Lynton explores kantha in her article “Kanthas: The Embroidered Quilts of Bengal” in the January/ February 1994 issue; her project, “A Kantha Cushion,” features traditional motifs. “Shisha Embroidery: The Mirror Work of Gujarat ” in the November/December 1994 issue, also by Linda Lynton, showcases this traditional technique; Susan Haynes Opdahl’s companion project offers step-by-step instructions to make heart-shaped shisha ornaments. Brinda Gill writes about the simply amazing technique of zardozi in the March/April 2001 issue; she opens her article with a quotation by first-century Roman historian Quintus Curtius Rufus: “[t]he king . . . is dressed in linen clothes embroidered with gold. . . .” Visit bit.ly/piecework-january-february-1994-digital-edition,bit.ly/ piecework-november-december-1994-digital-edition, and bit.ly/piecework-march-april-2001-digital-edition, respectively.…

On the longest night of the year and the first day of winter—the Winter Solstice—people suddenly begin to realize that it’s cold and dark. Where is the sun? Centuries ago, people believed that they must entice the sun to return again with rites and rituals, by making special textiles, and baking special breads. Symbols of the sun often decorated handmade objects; circles, spirals, and swastikas, whose arms whirl both left and right, are found worldwide. Solar colors—reds, oranges, and yellows—were chosen at this time of year. Red food and fruit, especially hot, spicy, or alcoholic drinks and delicacies, would be brought out at celebrations. In India, temples were filled with votive candles on the feast of Diwali. Bonfires greeted Scandinavians as they arrived at church on Christmas Eve; in Bulgaria,…

beg—begin(s); beginningBO—bind offCC—contrasting colorch—chaincir—circularcn—cable needleCO—cast oncont—continue(s); continuingdc—double crochetdec(s) (’d)—decrease(s); decreased;decreasingdpn—double-pointed needle(s)foll—follow(s); followinghdc—half double crochetinc(s) (’d)—increase(s); increased;increasingk—knitk1b—knit 1 in back of stitchk1f&b—knit into the front and back of thesame stitch—1 stitch increasedk2b—knit 2 in back of next 2 stitcheskwise—knitwise; as if to knitk2tog—knit 2 stitches togetherk3tog—knit 3 stitches togetherk5tog—knit 5 stitches togetherLLI—insert left needle into back of the stitch below stitch just knitted, knit this stitchlp(s)—loop(s)m(s)—marker(s)MC—main colorM1—make one (increase)M1k—increase 1 by knitting into the front and then the back of the same stitch before slipping it off the left-hand needle M1p—increase 1 by purling into the front and then the back of the same stitch before slipping it off the left-hand needle M1L—(make 1 left) lift the running thread between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from front to…

EXHIBITIONS New York, New York: Through February 21. Jacqueline de Ribes: The Art of Style, at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. (212) 535-7710; www.metmuseum.org. Parma, Ohio: Through November 15. Piecing Together a Changing Planet, presented by Studio Art Quilt Associates and the National Park Service, at Cleveland Metroparks Watershed Stewardship Center. (440) 887-1968; www.nationalparkartexhibit.com/exhibit-schedule.html. Charleston, South Carolina: Through January 10. On Parade, Into Battle: Military Uniforms from the American Revolution to the Present, at the Charleston Museum. (843) 722-2996; www.charlestonmuseum.org. Alexandria, Virginia: November 18, 2015–January 3, 2016. Winter Wonderland, at Potomac Fiber Arts Gallery. Joanne Bast, jbast@jbast.com; www.potomacfiberartsgallery.com. Bath, England: Through January 3. Great Names of Fashion, at the Fashion Museum. 44 1225 477789. www.fashionmuseum.co.uk. Berks, England: Through November 21. Art Quilts and Embroidery by Janet Atherton, at Cumberland Lodge…

The following donated dolls to the suffrage fair: Mrs. William McKinley (Ida); William McKinley was president of the United States 1897 to 1901. Mrs. L. M. Shaw (Alice); L. M. Shaw was the governor of Iowa 1898 to 1902. Mrs. John Fremont Hill (Laura); John Hill was the governor of Maine 1901 to 1905. Mrs. Hazen S. Pingree (Frances); Hazen Pingree was the governor of Michigan 1897 to 1901. Mrs. Lawrence Vest Stephens (Margaret); Lawrence Stephens was the governor of Missouri 1897–1901. Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt (Edith); Theodore Roosevelt was the governor of New York 1899 to 1900. Mrs. William A. Stone (Elizabeth); William Stone was the governor of Pennsylvania 1899 to 1903. Mrs. M. B. McSweeney (Martha); M. B. McSweeney was the governor of South Carolina 1899 to 1903. Mrs.…

Many photographs of Susan B. Anthony show her wearing lace collars and cuffs. Few knew of a letter she wrote in 1898 about lace. Read the letter and learn more about this amazing woman in Susan Strawn’s article, “Susan B. Anthony and a Letter about Lace,” in the May/June 2013 issue of PieceWork. Visit bit.ly/piecework-may-june-2013-digital-edition. Ida Saxton McKinley was a prolific crocheter. Betsy Butler explores this part of her life in “First Lady Ida Saxton McKinley and Her Crocheted Slippers” in PieceWork’s November/ December 2013 issue. Visit bit.ly/piecework-novemberdecember-2013-magazine.…

Visit the following websites for additional information: • Alfred Shaker Museum, Alfred, Maine; www.alfredshaker museum.com • Canterbury Shaker Village, Canterbury, New Hampshire; www.shakers.org • Enfield Shaker Museum, Enfield, New Hampshire; www.shaker museum.org • Fruitlands Museum, Harvard, Massachusetts; www.fruitlands.org • Hancock Shaker Village, Pittsfield, Massachusetts; www.hancockshakervillage.org • Sabbathday Lake Shaker Village, New Gloucester, Maine; www.maineshakers.com • Shaker Heritage Society, Albany, New York; www.shakerheritage.org • The Shaker Historical Society Museum and Library, Shaker Heights, Ohio; www.shakerhistoricalsociety.org • Shaker Museum, Mount Lebanon, New York; www.shakerml.org • Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Harrodsburg, Kentucky; www.shakervillageky.org • Shirley Shaker Village, Shirley, Massachusetts; www.nps.gov/nr/travel/shaker/shi.htm • South Union Shaker Village, Auburn, Kentucky; www.southunionshakervillage.com • White Water Shaker Village; Harrison, Ohio; www.whitewatervillage.org.…

This elegant embroidery, in honor of the traditional fukusa (a silk covering for gifts) of Edo Japan, might be used to cover a tray laden with favors for dinner or party guests. It would be equally lovely hung as a banner, centered on a table, draped over a mantelpiece, or across the pillow of a guest-room bed. Like many fukusa, this gift cover features a seasonal motif imbued with special meaning—the holly’s green leaves and bright red berries are a reminder that even in the cold gray of winter, spring is around the corner. Couched gold cords provide grace notes for the three-dimensional embroidery, which is worked in basic stitches with stranded silk. Tassels may be sewn to the corners to provide a charming and authentic finishing touch. MATERIALS Kreinik…

Get Ready, Get Set, Sew This handy case is for sorting and storing 13 types of needles in 26 sizes on the printed grid. Two pockets hold accessories. A very helpful Pocket Guide for choosing the right needle and thread for any project is included. The Hand Needle Pack is shown; one is also available for machine sewing.www.colonialneedle.com Soft & Sweet Who could resist names such as Tawny Mocha, Cappuccino, Dark Truffle Chocolate, Sunkissed Toffee, Bronzed Caramel? Who could resist 100% llama yarn with one of those names? This fingering-weight yarn is distributed by Knitting Fever. 420 yards (384.0 m)/100 gram (3.5 oz) skein. Shown in #105 Cappuccino. www.knittingfever.com Llama Love HiKoo’s Llamor, a 100% baby llama yarn, is lovely! Distributed by the Skacel Collection, the yarn is made in…

The “suffragists of the country, the home wreckers, the unsexed, the women who have lost all feminine instincts,” expounded the New York newspaper The Sun, “are hard at work dressing dolls, fashioning baby clothes, embroidering doilies, painting calendars, crocheting and knitting” for a national fair to raise funds for woman suffrage. “The best joke of all,” the newspaper proclaimed, was that “the editor of the oldest and largest suffrage paper in the country keeps a pile of wash-cloths beside her, and in the intervals between writing editorials she crochets a fancy edge on them.” Unperturbed, that editor, Alice Stone Blackwell, reprinted the criticism in The Woman’s Column in the September 8, 1900, edition beneath the headline “Knitting Versus Tobacco.” The antisuffragist argument was that the suffragists were doomed to failure…

Authors known to have donated autographed copies of their most popular books were: Alice Brown (1857–1948), writer, novelist, and playwright is recognized today for the feminist characters she created. Her first book was Stratford-by-the-Sea (1884). Anna Christy Fall (1885-unknown), lawyer and member of the Boston Bar Association, wrote about how property rights laws were unfair to women in The Tragedy of a Widow’s Third (1898). Louise Imogen Guiney (1861–1920), poet, essayist and literary scholar, was a close friend of Alice Brown. Guiney’s first book was Songs at the Start (1884) followed by the acclaimed A Roadside Harp (1893). John Milton Hay (1838–1905) served as private secretary to Abraham Lincoln and was serving as U.S. Secretary of State at the time of the suffrage bazar. Also poet and author, Hay’s most…

Per and Dagny Kuhmunen have been such an encouragement for me in my Sami mitten research. When I first began looking for Sami knitting, I searched a long time for information from any source. I didn’t find much in English. Then, I began searching in primary sources in Scandinavia. I was close to giving up, when I found a postcard of the Jokkmokk Winter Market. There in bold color was an image of Per wearing a beautiful green gákti (traditional clothing) with bright mittens. They were knitted but definitely not in a Norwegian or Swedish pattern. I had found my first pair of traditional Sami mittens!…

KIT AVAILABLE! Get our kit with the yarn you need to knit these mittens and hat. bit.ly/pw-ice-festival -hat-mittens-kit. When I envision ice sculptures, I see pale blue and white. These shades represent cold, ice, frost, and snow. What should I wear to keep warm while attending these cold celebrations? A pair of warm mittens and a hat, of course! The hat is a delightful stocking hat. The 3-inch (7.6-cm) two-color corrugated rib is surrounded by two Latvian braids. The beautiful Snowflake pattern is knitted using the stranded technique. The top of the hat gradually decreases to a point using blue seam stitches, and then it’s topped with a tassel. The mittens replicate the Snowflake pattern. MATERIALS Manos Silk Blend, 70% extrafine merino wool/30% silk yarn, DK weight, about 150 yards (137…

Early in the seventeenth century, Japan closed its doors to foreigners in general and missionaries in particular. The intent was to withdraw into self-reliance and live according to the religion, tenets, and cultural traditions of its ancestors. Historically, this withdrawal marked the beginning of the Edo period, a reference to Edo, the ancient capital now known as Tokyo. Extending from 1603 to 1868, this period of isolation from the Western world—although Chinese culture and Confucianism remained greatly admired and emulated—is alternatively referred to as the Tokugawa period, named for the autocratic dynasty of shoguns (great generals) who ruled the country throughout that period. Ostensibly, these warlords were appointed by the emperor; in reality, they wrested control through military might, retaining it generation after generation. During the Edo period, rigid etiquette…

As friends and relatives gather for Diwali, a joyous five-day festival, this pleasant greeting is often heard. Celebrated after the harvest and during the darkest new moon period of the Hindu Lunisolar month Kartika, Diwali generally falls in early November, a time when the long dark nights of winter are approaching. Also called the festival of lights, it has a history dating back to ancient India. Through the graciousness and generosity of Shivini Desai, a first-generation American of Indian heritage, we catch a glimpse of the remarkable pieces of clothing in her wardrobe as well as some of her family’s traditions and customs from India. I first met Shivani through my daughter Stephanie, when they became classmates and great friends during their time together at Cedar Crest College in Allentown,…

Inspired by the beautiful garments in Shivani’s closet, this traditional polti (a “bundle” or “package”) silk purse features a stylized interpretation of one of Shivani’s favorite motifs— the peacock. An embroidered chain-stitch outline, running stitch accents, and shisha mirrors reflect the embellishments found in her wardrobe. The drawstring closure fashioned from a silver yarn twisted cord provides a wristlet handle; an optional shoulder chain may be concealed within the self-fabric-lined purse. MATERIALS Dupioni fabric, 100% silk, Azure Sea, 1/3 yard (0.3 m) Warm & White Batting, 100% cotton batting, 1/3 yard (0.3 m); www.warmcompany.com Sewing thread to match dupioni fabric Patons North American Metallic, 63% nylon/28%acrylic/9% wool yarn, worsted weight, 252 yards (230.4 m)/ball, 1 ball of #95042 Platinum; www.yarn spirations.com Metal chain, 3/16 inch (5 mm) wide x 48…

For additional information on the color red and its significance in ritual and folklore, see The Red Issue of PieceWork (March/April 2014). Mary B. Kelly’s article, “Red: The Universal Color,” is included. Visit bit.ly/pieceworkmagazine-march-april-2014-grouped. Mary B. Kelly’s article, “Exquisite Embroidered Symbolism: Norwegian Ceremonial Cloths,” in the July/August 2009 issue explores the traditional cloths displayed behind the high seat, the raised—and thus most prestigious—seat at the far end of the family table in Norway. Visit bit.ly/ piecework-july-august-2009-digital-edition.…