Table of contents for June 2018 in Getaway

We were in Grade Six. Both of us were intrepid explorers. James Blomerus and I built model aeroplanes after school, frequented the secret corners of Newlands Forest and had a common interest in World War II. It was December hols and James invited me to join his family at Great Brak River on the Garden Route. Our days were filled with brave adventures, such as canoeing, bodysurfing, tormenting James’s younger sister and shooting Nazi soldiers. However, that glorious summer holiday was significant for a quite different reason. Birds. James had an old, battered Roberts Birds book and one afternoon we borrowed his father’s binoculars and retired to the dune forest. James knew everything about ornithology and could easily tell the difference between a dove and a pigeon, even without the…

Eagle’s Nest in Lamberts Bay is practically on the beach. This idyllic house is the perfect spot to relax and unwind with your loved ones, and experience the beauty of the West Coast. It has two large units, each with three bedrooms and a spacious living area opening onto a stunning sea-view veranda. 083-458-1575, westcoasteaglesnest.co.za The ‘Shoreline of the San’ hiking trail is sandwiched between the Breede and Olifants rivers. On this 50-kilometre ‘slackpacking’ trail, from Elands Bay to Strandfontein, hikers trek where only a select few have hiked before. With special access to private property, it passes a variety of archaeological sites, including caves, middens and San paintings amid the untamed beauty of this coast. It’s an all-inclusive adventure where you focus on the experience and everything else is provided,…

David McLennan, co-owner of Select Books ‘Select Books buys and sells rare books, including some signed by the author, and limited editions. One of our objectives is to source out-of-print books that are no longer available on the shelves. We assess and repair them if we need to before sending out a catalogue to readers who may be interested. We then post books to people all over the world. We have been in business for almost 32 years now, and recently moved from Long Street to Harfield Village. It’s peaceful here and the businesses are all well managed. When we first moved here, we had to find a locksmith and a plumber – we didn’t have to go too far as both were down the road. I had to get…

• Some of the best ocean swims you’ll ever have. • Birding along the lagoon – tick off sunbirds, finfoots, flycatchers, barbets, weavers, twinspots and more. • Boating on the lagoon or sea. Ocean Echo is the only company offering trips in the area (074-479-0987). • A takeaway from Proud’s Pizza, a converted storage container on the beach. • Sundowners at the bar with the best views in the village: Zinkwazi Ski Boat Club. • A curry washed down with brandy-and-Coke at the Darnall Country Club, or order the steak, egg and chips (032-486-1778). • Walking trails and wildlife at Harold Johnson Nature Reserve (16km away), with views of the Tugela River (032-486-1574).…

The Nyandezulu Experience provides an insider’s look at the region. The walk to the waterfall is very steep, but it only takes 15 minutes each way. R450 pp. 083-736-7799, southernexplorer.co.za/the-nyandezuluexperience  The Red Desert, 10 kilometres from Port Edward, is a strange quirk in the lush subtropical landscape of this region. Entry is free. 039-311-3663, reddesertnaturereserve.co.za The Waffle House is a South Coast institution. Sitting serenely on the Ramsgate lagoon, it offers 27 varieties of toppings including steak and kidney, chicken à la king and banoffee. Waffles cost R42–R96. 039-314-9424, wafflehouse.co.za Umtamvuna Nature Reserve borders the Umtamvuna River and has hiking trails that vary in duration from an hour to all day. In addition to rich plant life, the reserve has more than 250 bird species. Entry R30 pp.…

GETTING AROUND There is a Gautrain station in Rosebank. You can Uber or Taxify around the area (no need to find parking), but minibus taxis travel the entire length of Jan Smuts Avenue between the CBD and Randburg – these cost R11 per trip. NEED TO KNOW There have been incidents of petty crime along the avenue (phones snatched in a few establishments, particularly around Bolton Corner), but there are plans in motion already to beef up security, says Timothy Sammons of Capital Point, which owns many of the properties in the area. STAY HERE Once in Joburg is a great budget option in Braamfontein, a few streets from the bottom end of Jan Smuts Avenue. From R885 B&B for a balcony room (sleeps two). 087-057-2638, once.travel/cities/joburg Village Green Guest…

When it comes to positive publicity, 2017 wasn’t a great year for Barcelona. In early August, ‘anti-tourism’ marches hit the news as residents protested the effects of mass tourism on their neighbourhoods. Later that month, a terrorist drove a vehicle into pedestrians on La Rambla, killing 14 people. And, in November, there were demonstrations as many Catalans called for independence from Spain. Narina spent a week in Barcelona during the height of these demonstrations and, contrary to news reports, didn’t experience any animosity or bad vibes – political or social. However, the city does carry a reputation of having a pickpocket problem, so be sensible with your choice of bag and don’t keep valuables in your pockets.…

7 500 CLOCKS Starting with 30 timepieces in 2007, The Clock Shop’s stock has grown into what’s said to be the biggest collection in the southern hemisphere, with everything from family-crest items to grandfather and cuckoo clocks. 013-254-0022 1 600 WHISKIES Wild about Whisky claims to be the southern hemisphere’s best-stocked whisky bar and shop. One of the three owners travels to Scotland or Ireland once a year to brush up on their knowledge and stock up the collection. The most expensive tot will set you back R965. It also has a variety of other tipples. Tastings from R165 pp. 013-254-0066 46 SHAKES Turkish delight, lemon meringue, milk tart, Ferrero Rocher, peanut butter, Zoo biscuits, candyfloss, jelly beans and caramelised popcorn … just some of the delightful tastes available at…

Definitely my bath, if there is only a shower. – Gillian Hirschfield Lawrenz 1. My parrot. 2. My own bathroom. – Siobhan Jade O’Connor My fridge! – Rentia Ellis My pets. – Riana Dippenaar My pillow. No person or organisation can replace that, so advertise all you like! – Rod Lowe The jersey I should have packed but left behind because I didn’t realise Portugal would be freezing. – Penelope Paddick Decent coffee. – Clive Foord My electric blanky. – Lerato Monyatsi Nothing, because travelling can be used to train one’s flexibility. – Constance Kaufmann…

Go below the surface Chocolate-chip dorids, eyelash-moss animals, white-sock sea spiders, gas-flame nudibranchs (pictured right) and a horse fish called Horace are some of the creatures to be ticked off amid the colourful reefs, gullies and caves in the western waters of Port Elizabeth. The Wildside Dive Fest offers all kinds of dives (wreck, reef, night, deep, shore-entry etc) for all levels of diver – even snorkellers will find something to delight. On land at the Noordhoek Ski Boat Club, there will be a festive atmosphere for the whole family, including stalls, music, food and prizes to be won (a trip to Situ Island in Mozambique sounds good). Proceeds go to the NSRI. R180 per dive, airfills R40, boat trips for non-divers R50. 15 – 17 June. dive@wreckandreefscuba.com A wonderful…

We wouldn’t blame you for thinking an annual ‘herb bush party’ might have something to do with the weed many like to smoke, but it’s not. It’s a fundraiser in a private game reserve, where guests are wined and dined by local chefs – and culinary herbs are the stars of the menu. This year’s party theme is Spaza Cuisine and ‘the secret ingredients for the dishes are our herbs,’ says MJ du Preez of Hlokomela Herb Garden. The Hoedspruit-based garden provides income for its HIV/Aids programme, which targets workers in the conservation, tourism and agricultural sectors of the Greater Kruger area. More than 20 herbs are grown, along with lettuces and a few vegetables, and the organic produce supplies about 15 lodges in the area, as well as shops…

Chantilly Resort This little gem is not in Zinkwazi itself but on an estate 12 minutes’ drive from the beach. The six contemporary self-catering cottages – with kitchens and bathrooms finished to a high standard – are privately located in what feels like a forest, making for a very romantic bolthole. Plus it’s pet friendly. Meals available on request (there’s a bar-lounge and restaurant). From R700 pp sharing. chantillyresort.co.za (Chantilly has just taken over the Nkwazi Eco Backpackers; now a guest house, so watch that space grow...) Zinkwazi Lagoon Beach & Forest Resort If you’re travelling solo or don’t want to self-cater, the 13 en-suite hotel rooms here are newly built and functional. The lodge has the most beautiful setting, a great deck and super-friendly staff. From R560 pp sharing.…

Vernon Crookes Nature Reserve is considered the best on the South Coast. A combination of coastal grasslands, forests and wetlands, it’s home to wildebeest, zebra, jackal and a range of antelope. There are picnic sites and a network of walking trails. 039-974-2222, kznwildlife.com  Paton’s Country Railway runs once a month on a Sunday, or on demand, and takes guests on a 25-kilometre, three-hour trip (it may be a steam or diesel loco) from Ixopo to Carisbrooke and back. R200 for adults, R150 for kids. 039-834-2963, pcngr.co.za King’s Grant Country Retreat has a restaurant and B&B on an estate 10 minutes outside Ixopo. Picnics can be taken on the lawns. Scones R20, lunch R80–R125. 039-834-2730, kingsgrant.co.za The Buddhist Retreat Centre has been going for more than 20 years and…

WOMEN’S JACKETS LIGHT BELIEF PATAGONIA W’S DOWN SWEATER R3 799, goneoutdoor.com A stroll along the Sea Point promenade in a black southeaster is different when you’re swaddled in goose feathers. This windproof jacket is made of 100% recycled, water-repellent polyester with an 800-fill goose-feather lining, making it super soft. The waistband’s drawstrings, tucked inside the jacket, provide a snug fit, while the zipped interior pocket is handy for stashing valuables such as keys or a smartphone. I wore this jacket on a long evening walk – it kept me cosy and I was able to move freely. I love its vibrant turquoise colour, which sets it apart from the usual greys and blacks. Don’t let the price hold you back – it’s well worth it, and although…

UMVANGATI HOUSE, BLYDE RIVER CANYON This contemporary hideaway in the middle of the bush has wraparound views of greenery and the mountains that form the famous canyon. From R6 780 for a double room. umvangati.co.za THE OUTPOST, KRUGER NATIONAL PARK Each of the 12 slick rooms at this luxury lodge have foldaway glass doors, which means you can lounge in bed or in the bath and gaze at the expanse of bush and Luvuvhu River, which is a soap’s throw away. From R7 400 pp sharing, including meals and activities. rareearth.co.za TINYELETI TREEHOUSE, KRUGER NATIONAL PARK Essentially a 50-square-metre wooden deck set on the banks of the Sabie River, your views in the day are of the animals that come to quench their thirst,…

Barcelona is not the most affordable destination, but here are five ways to stretch your rands: 1 BOOK AHEAD Advance bookings will often get you discounts on entrance fees to museums and historical buildings. The official Visit Barcelona website ( barcelonaturisme.com ) is an excellent resource. 2 DO YOUR RESEARCH Some museums and galleries offer free entry on certain days, usually Sundays. See the tourism website for details. 3 BE YOUR OWN GUIDE The free Visit Barcelona app offers ideas for itineraries and has free guides to themed walking tours. BCN Gaudí gives interesting insight into the architect and his buildings; BCN Paisatge was designed to highlight the ‘between places’ – murals, shops and landscapes around Barcelona. 4 STAY CONNECTED Barcelona has one of the largest…

Everyone has a different idea about the best part of travel. Some will talk about seeing new cultures and meeting new people and having new stories to tell. Some will talk about the memories that will enrich their inner lives as they spend their twilight years reminiscing in their easy chairs. I am not calling any of these people liars, but I’m telling you that I do not believe that any of these things are the best part of travel. The best part of travel doesn’t happen every time but when it does, it feels like being 10 years old again when you’re feeling a bit sick and your mother says you can stay home, and she tucks you in and brings you strawberry Nesquik and Archie comics. You feel…

From glorious getaways to cool gear, here are some of our latest winners Spot Gen 3 tracking device worth R3 000 I can’t wait to give this a try. It will be a great way of tracking my hikes and trail runs, and letting my family know exactly where I am. – Rochelle Stewart A two-night stay at any Premier Hotel & Resort worth R6 000 Thank you for spoiling me with a much-needed escape. And thank you to Getaway magazine for always delivering high-quality and informative content that inspires and feeds my thirsty travel bug. – Gitte Wehr HP Sprocket Mobile Printer worth R2 000 This is terrific news! I will be retiring shortly and would have had to purchase a printer, so this will come in very handy.…

GIRAFFES Animalia Collective T-shirt, R310 (excl. shipping) It might not seem like it to those who visit SA’s game reserves, but giraffe numbers have been declining steadily over the past 30 years (there are now less than 100 000 left in the world) due to poaching, disease and loss of habitat. Conservationists in East Africa, where the threats are most severe, are doing their best to fight back, with reforestation a big focus. Animalia Collective donates more than half of its monthly profits to conservation and prevention of cruelty to animals around the world. Its very first partnership was with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation, the only NGO that focuses solely on these animals. There are 20 giraffe T-shirt designs. animaliacollective.com World Giraffe Day is on 21 June. See…

GET SOCIAL ‘ Banana Jam Cafe is the best place to have a drink in Harfield Village. It has happy-hour specials and they brew their own craft beer’ (including a Coconut IPA and Pirate Porter). 157 Second Avenue, 021-674-0186 ‘ Home Bar is the place to catch up with locals.’ 53 Second Avenue, 021-683-6066 GRAB A COFFEE ‘My favourite cappuccino spot, to get the day started, is Twigs with Beans.’ 021-674-1193 ‘I also enjoy going for a smoothie at August Deli – it’s small and intimate and has a homely atmosphere.’ 082-734-4007 Both are at 48 Second Avenue. OWNER OF DA VINCIS ON 2ND ‘A gentleman by the name of Chris Parsley started the restaurant 20 years ago, but sold it in 2003 to open a Da Vincis in town.…

Massimo Orione of Massimo’s Pizza Club, Hout Bay Every holiday has to include different elements – a bit of city, a bit of countryside, mountain and sea. The best part is eating and discovering new foods. Every year I go back to see the doctors in Genova, Italy, where I had my bone-marrow transplant. I always make a stop at some really good Ligurian restaurants – best of all is Da Pino in the village of Nervi. The best meal I’ve had on holiday was dinner at an Argentinian restaurant in Zacatecas, Mexico. I also had the best seafood tacos ever on a street in Baja California. The place that surprised me most was Venice. We did a house exchange and lived like locals for a week, buying fish and…

One morning we woke to an incredible winter wonderland with crystal-clear light, untrodden snow, icicles on fence poles and a sea of misty cloud below us. It was a photographer’s dream! Digital cameras make shooting snow extremely easy. With film I was always worried about how the exposure meter would be thrown out by all the white. Underexposing by two-thirds of a stop allowed me to get the bright highlights of the clouds and icicles. The RAW file was quite dark as a result, but because I used ISO 100 I was able to lift the shadows and brighten the image later in post-production without losing detail in the clouds. Equipment Nikon D3x, Nikkor AFS 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5, ISO 100, f/9, 1/400 sec…

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know No. 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sources when researching a destination. For Zinkwazi, she created a longlist of 22 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? •  A house in a forest – and a bargain (pg 42) •  A cosy cottage for a couple (pg 42) •  A huge house with sea views (pg 43) •  A large family holiday home (pg 43) •…

Meatballs with Fire-Roasted Chakalaka You’ll need some hot coals for this one. Serve with pasta, pap or freshly baked bread. Serves 6 • 1kg sausage (we used chicken) • 1 large onion, skin on • 2 large tomatoes • 2 green peppers • 3T extra-virgin olive oil • ½ lemon • 1T dried Italian herbs • 1–2 medium-size chillies, deseeded and chopped (optional) • salt and pepper Remove the meat from the sausage casing, and portion into 30 balls (each about the size of an egg yolk). Leave in the fridge or a cool area. Place the onion, tomatoes and green peppers directly on the lowest-heat coals. Leave them to cook for 8–12 minutes, turning them every 2 minutes. Don’t be alarmed when the outsides blacken – that’s what you want. Place in a ziplock bag to ‘steam’ and…

Oribi Vulture Viewing Experience gives guests the opportunity to watch the birds from a hide and also visit their nests on the side of a cliff. It takes two hours and costs a minimum of R100; by prior arrangement only, bookings.vulturehide@yahoo.co.za . 072-893-3794, vulturehide.blogspot.co.za  Leopard Rock Cafe at Oribi Gorge has a famous overhanging rock just below it that makes for great pictures. The views alone are worth stopping for. A burger and chips cost R74. 083-265-5261, leopardrockc.co.za Lush Africa, based in Port Shepstone, specialises in day trips to Oribi Gorge, the Umtamvuna Valley and the Mbuzi Trail. R300–R500 pp depending on numbers. 082-563-4994, lushafrica.co.za STAY HERE Lombok Lodge is a wonderful B&B in Umtentweni with en-suite rooms and…

‘After robot!’ I shout from the back of a taxi as a cue to get off at the corner of Jan Smuts Avenue and Bolton Road. I’m meeting my colleague, Melanie van Zyl, for a Thursday lunch – and a headstart on our weekend activities on Jan Smuts Avenue. This 12,4-kilometre-long street stretches across 14 suburbs, from Randburg in the north to just before Nelson Mandela Bridge in the CBD. Park Corner, or Bolton Corner as most people know it, pulsates with the energy of a bustling city. Standing across the road, I want to join that vibrant young crowd I see leaning over restaurant counters that open out onto the street, sipping and nibbling on this and that. I walk into Saigon Suzy and immediately fall head-over-heels for it.…

SUNDAY AFTERNOONS CAN BE A SURREAL TIME TO EXPLORE A CITY. On the fringe of what was once a thriving industrial area, Barcelona seemed deserted. A wall crumbled onto a vacant lot. Traffic lights clicked through their cycles on silent streets. It felt like a forgotten city, but traces of life persisted everywhere: laundry fluttering below a window, an escape ladder cascading with geraniums, chairs and tables jumbled on a patio. And art – there was so much art. We wandered the ‘hood – Spanish teenager Lucia, her English papa Mark and I – drifting from one wall to another, captivated by the visual treasure trail that unfolded before us. Huge faces peered from behind broken factory windows; human figures with paper-bag heads watched over two piles of earth. On…

NEED TO KNOW South Africans passport holders require a Schengen visa to enter Spain. It takes at least 15 working days to process and costs R964, plus there’s a R248 handling fee. sa.blsspainvisa.com Taxis, buses and the Metro are very accessible. The bus is cheapest; buy a 10-ride ticket for R154 at any station. STAY HERE Casa Gracia is a sunny townhouse with high ceilings, marble floors and character-filled decor. It’s a boutique hostel suitable for all ages in central Barcelona, on the fringe of local neighbourhoods that have more affordable bars and restaurants. It’s a fair-but-doable walking distance from the popular old town. B&B from R224 per dorm bed; from R820 for a double room; from R970 for an apartment (sleeps three). casagraciabcn.com Mandarin Oriental is on Passeig de…

THE INSIDER Leigh Peachey has seen Dullstroom evolve over the past 35 years. After studying and travelling, she moved back to her hometown to assist with the family farm and business, Dullstroom Country Cottages. The mist came rolling in over the sloping hills, slow and gentle, as a soft drizzle decorated my windshield. I was reminded that we were in the highest town in the country (just under 2100 metres above sea level), yet a short drive away from the hot, humid Lowveld. The Crocodile River, which flows through Nelspruit with wild and wide grandeur, starts as a narrow stream right here outside ‘Dullies’. Established in 1883 by a Dutchman called Wolterus Dull, residents of this dorp have a knack for using his surname in any title: Idullies Farm, Anything…

Willem Human, manager of Tipsy Trout liquor store ‘Dullstroom is the ideal place for a pub crawl with friends. There is a wide selection of restaurants and bars close to each other.’ Francesca Stoltz, manager of Trams Trading ‘I like to go for a picnic at a waterfall with friends. We usually go to Waterval Farm, out on the Kruisfontein road.’ It’s private land – only guests who stay here have access. 013-254-0020 Mariana Coleman, shop assistant at J&L The Leather Company ‘There are two clay-pigeon shooting ranges close to town, at Lake Heron and Field and Stream.’ 082-781-0242, 013-254-0431 Christine Hammann, chef at Art of Food ‘The Mad Hatter is a must. Besides the special food, the cafe also has an…

4... That’s how many game reserves we explored while out researching the ultimate budget-friendly, bush-and-beach holiday from Gauteng to northern KZN via the Lowveld. With R10 000, two of our team took a seven-night trip to some of the country’s top wildlife destinations, exploring them on foot and by car. They broke up the bird- and game-watching with a bit of fish-spotting at a seaside escape that has a beautiful bay for snorkelling. Pack your goggles and binoculars, along with the July issue of Getaway , for an epic and affordable road trip.…