Table of contents for Issue 108 Apr/May 2023 in Dish

Writing this letter each issue gives me the opportunity to reflect every few months – to think about what has been going on around Aotearoa New Zealand and the world, and to look forward to what we have coming up. As I write this, I have been thinking about our beautiful regions battered by Cyclone Gabrielle and the incessant flooding. Our hearts go out to all of those affected, and we, like so many, will be doing our best to support them as they rebuild. It is inevitable that as time goes on, Hawke’s Bay and others in the area will go from being headline news and our focus will move. As a wee reminder I invite you to head to page 14 to read the heart-felt, first-hand account from…

We’d love you to join us at one of our favourite Ponsonby restaurants – KOL – for a delicious dinner prepared by head chef, Vicky Shah on Tuesday 16 May. To complement the five courses, dish is excited to partner with Marisco Vineyards and The Kings Series wines. An award-winning family-owned and operated Marlborough wine brand, Marisco Vineyards was established in 2006 by esteemed winemaker Brent Marris and since then, has been committed to crafting quality wines that honour the family’s heritage. The Kings Series pays homage to the scandalous and often notorious tales of Marris’ ancestors, the de Mariscos – the name of each wine painting a picture of the stories. Of course, there are no scandalous stories today and owners Brent and Rosemary Marris are passionate about creating…

Financial Donations • Hawke’s Bay Disaster Relief Trust 02-0700-0010824-002• Gisborne Disaster Relief Trust 03-0638-0502288-00• Hasting’s PolyActive-led Evacuation Centres 12-3145-0303209-50• Napier King’s House Church-led housing and feeding 38-9009-0297745-000• Ngāti Kahungunu Koha Fund 02-0644-0117140-00 Reference: KOHA• Red Cross NZ Disaster Fund redcross.org.nz/nz-disaster-fund• SPCA Cyclone Fund spca.co.nz• Hawke’s Bay Wine Charitable Trust 02-0700-0005785-025 To Volunteer • Hawke’s Bay volunteeringhb.org.nz• Northland volunteeringnorthland.nz• Bay of Plenty facebook.com/volunteeringBOP• Auckland facebook.com/volunteeringAKL• Waikato volunteeringwaikato.org.nz Businesses you can support through online sales • Petane Wines petanestation.co.nz• Zeelandt Brewery zeelandt.co.nz• Linden Estate Wines lindenestatewinery.co.nz• Shed 530 Estate shed530.com• Brookfields brookfieldsvineyards.co.nz• Crab Farm crabfarmwinery.co.nz• Silverton Estate silvertonestate.com• Esk Valley Wines eskvalleywines.com• Radburnd Cellars radburndcellars.co.nz…

His love of food and impressive drive are so innate that his initial dream became a reality with the opening of his first cafe Ben Gusto in 2008, where he developed the menu and cooked in the kitchen himself. Now, in 2023, David’s name has become synonymous with success in the industry. Not only is he the mastermind behind well-known eateries Gochu, Candyshop and Poni – which he still owns – but also previously Little King, Dear Jervois, Major Sprout, Simon & Lee and more. He is recognised for fostering Korean food in the Auckland dining scene, and we are truly grateful! David has always been fascinated by memorable experiences and cultural diversity and explains his passion this way: “It seems that I have pursued expanding my experiences through acquiring…

It’s a location that’s been popular with locals for many years, but it was time for Queenies to have a refresh – a project perfect for husband-and-wife duo, Fran Mazza and Aaron Carson. Many would be familiar with previous projects they’ve worked their magic on, including the always-popular Rude Boy Deli & Eatery, Winona Forever, and Avondale’s Italian-inspired cafe, Piccolina, to name a few. Italian flair has been added to this newest rendition of Queenies, too, with a side of Fran’s favourite family recipes. The space “Queenies is such an iconic site with all the beautiful ivy coming around the building; it’s such a hidden treasure and when the opportunity came up for us to purchase the site, we jumped at it because it really has this wonderful feeling when…

6 boneless chicken thighs, skin off6 long slices streaky bacon1 tablespoon olive oil1 onion, chopped1 large carrot, chopped200 grams spicy chorizo sausage, sliced 1cm thick3 cloves garlic, crushed2 teaspoons smoked paprika1 teaspoon ground cinnamon finely grated zest 1 lemon400-gram tin crushed tomatoes½ cup chicken stock or white wine500 grams crown pumpkin, peeled, diced 2cm pieces sea salt and ground pepper Preheat the oven to 180°C. regular bake. Season the chicken thighs and wrap each one in a slice of bacon then tie with kitchen string to secure. Heat the oil in a large ovenproof frying pan and cook the chicken on both sides until a good golden colour. Remove to a plate. Spoon off any excess fat, leaving 2 tablespoons in the pan. Add the onion and carrot, season and…

150 grams butter at room temperature1 cup caster sugar3 large eggs1 cup plain flour½ cup desiccated coconut1 teaspoon baking powder2 teaspoons ground ginger⅓ cup chopped crystallised ginger1 cup coconut milk finely grated zest 1 lemon1¼ cups peeled and chopped feijoas LEMON ICING 1 cup icing sugar2-3 tablespoons coconut milk toasted flaked coconut for garnish, optional EQUIPMENT: Grease a 20cm springform cake tin and line the base and sides with baking paper. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan bake. Beat the butter and sugar until light and pale. Add the eggs one at time beating well between each one. Combine the flour, coconut, baking powder and the ground and crystallised ginger together then gently mix into the butter mixture along with the coconut milk and lemon zest. Fold in the feijoas.…

Smoky Sweetcorn Chowder with Cheddar Croûtes (gf) Hearty, smoky and super quick with a glorious topping of crunchy cheesy croûtes. You could also add in cooked chicken or prawns for a more substantial meal. PREP: 10 minutes COOK: 20 minutes SCALE: easy 2 tablespoons olive oil1 brown onion, thinly sliced2 cloves garlic, crushed2 teaspoons cumin seeds2 teaspoons dried oregano4 cups frozen sweetcorn kernels, thawed and 1 cup set aside2 tablespoons instant polenta1 teaspoon smoked paprika4 cups vegetable stock, hot1 teaspoon chilli flakes sea salt and ground pepper2 teaspoons lemon juice TO SERVE sour cream2 tablespoons finely chopped corianderCrispy, Cheesy Cheddar Croutons (see recipe below) Heat the oil in a large saucepan and stir in the onion, garlic, cumin seeds and the oregano. Cover and cook gently for 5 minutes, stirring…

No-churn Extra-rich Chocolate Frangelico and Boysenberry Ice Cream By crikey this is good – I have been making ice cream variations for ages, and this one just went to the top of the favourites list. 500ml cream150 grams dark chocolate (72% cocoa), chopped into 1cm chunks¼ cup Frangelico1 tablespoon dark cocoa395-gram tin sweetened condensed milk½ cup boysenberry jam½ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts or almond flakes EQUIPMENT: 1.5 litre-capacity freezer-safe container. Heat half the cream in a small microwave-safe jug or on the stovetop until simmering. Add the chocolate chunks and leave to sit for 1 minute. Whisk until smooth, if necessary, reheating very briefly. Set aside until cool. Add the Frangelico to the chocolate and whisk to combine. Whip the remaining cream to soft peaks, add the cocoa and sweetened…

Roasted Butternut Squash Maple Millet Bread This lightly sweet, very moist snack bread doesn’t need anything else to make it wonderful (except perhaps a cup of tea), but that didn’t stop me from adding an extra flourish anyway: a topping of buttery sweet streusel, made extra crunchy by the addition of uncooked millet. The streusel would be excellent on a fruit galette, too, so make a double batch and keep half in the freezer for your next baking day. STREUSEL TOPPING ⅓ cup whole wheat flour¼ cup uncooked millet¼ cup packed dark or light brown sugar2 tablespoons granulated sugar½ teaspoon kosher salt¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces BREAD butter and flour, for the loaf pan3 cups diced peeled butternut squash (about 450 grams)1 tablespoon vegetable…

PEOPLE ARE ALWAYS MAKING predictions in the New Zealand wine industry. One day consumers might want to drink wine in restaurants or buy their wines in bottles as opposed to flagons. No, really? Muller Thurgau is doing just nicely thanks, but this new-fangled sauvignon blanc won’t have much of a future. Screwcaps will never take off, but viognier will be the next big thing. People will never go back to wanting big, buttery chardonnay and pinot gris? Meh, can’t see it lasting. As the decades roll along it’s exciting to see what sticks and what doesn’t. Yet, judging by the whopping 103 entries received for our latest, erm, judging, it looks like pinot gris is still steaming ahead in the quality and popularity stakes. In all the pinot gris tastings we’ve…

Shed some light Shed 530 is the newest addition to Hawke’s Bay’s winery scene. Nestled in the impossibly cute Dartmoor Valley at 530 Puketapu Road is a new cellar door boasting sauvignon blanc, albariño, blended whites, chardonnay, pinot noir, rosé, syrah, red-blends and even a port! Plus you can enjoy all manner of gins, cocktails, boutique beers and a weeklychanging menu featuring fabulously fresh Hawke’s Bay produce. Driving the winemaking is Hawke’s Bay-raised chief winemaker Kel Dixon. “Traditionally, sauvignon in our region has been regarded as second rate to Marlborough. However, ours is grown on limestone hills south of Hastings, giving it a fantastic flavour profile akin to Marlborough – but with beautiful fresh intensity and drive,” he urges. “And our Reserve Syrah, with its dark fruits and smooth palate,…

Grains for Every Season: Rethinking Our Way with Grains by Joshua McFadden, Artisan Books, This second cookbook by Joshua McFadden celebrates the humble whole grain, and makes you rethink what’s actually possible. Fancy some Super Grain and Veggie Burgers to share? How about some Spiced Beef and Bulgur Hand Pies (see page114) or Roasted Butternut Squash Maple Millet Bread (see page114)? Joshua has kept things simple and easy to understand, and the recipes included are those he feels are the most versatile (and delicious) in the kitchen for everyday cooking. There’s plenty to learn along the way, too. The Eternal City by Maria Pasquale, Smith Street Books, $60 A love letter to Rome, this beautiful cookbook by culinary and travel writer Maria Pasquale takes you through the streets of the…

Claire Aldous Food Editor @clairealdous Q Where have you eaten out recently and enjoyed? A A weekend in Island Bay, Wellington involved a couple of trips to the gorgeous oceanside Beach House & Kiosk. My Salmon Pastrami, Remoulade, Potato Rosti and Beetroot Pickled Eggs was everything you hope to find on a good brunch menu along with lots of other options and a cabinet overflowing with delicious treats. Q Tell us about something you’ve cooked this month. A After watching Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy, I was fired up to re-create some of the amazing dishes he ate on his journeys. I love gnocchi so ricotta gnocchi with zucchini trifolati, chilli, parmesan and olive oil was a favourite dinner with friends. Q What recipe are you most excited about in this…

FARRO MILK AND DARK CHOCOLATE BUNNIES Celebrate Easter in sweet style with these cute confections! Crafted from local handmade chocolate, they are sure to delight. $26.99/250g ALLPRESS BENNETTS EASTER EGGS This egg-squisite carton contains three each of flat white and double espresso chocolate, one velvety with a hint of coffee, the other rich, dark and bittersweet. $17.99 ALMARE SPRITZ For sensational sipping, you can’t go past this sparkling, wine-based aperitivo. Simply pour over ice and enjoy the bright citrusy bittersweetness. $17.99/750ml ROBBIE’S NOIR G Ä RLIK SAUCE Earthy, robust black garlic is blended with balsamic, onion, molasses and chilli for an award-winning sauce perfect for cooking, marinating and drizzling. $22.99 farro.co.nz…

Our columnist Melie Ferrier – an Auckland-based recipe developer, content creator and cookbook author – is known for making beautiful cakes, and this one is no exception. With melt-in-the-mouth lemon filling sitting atop a perfectly biscuity base, the cheesecake is topped with fluffy dollops of Swiss meringue and juicy, gin-roasted apricots. With a sprinkling of thyme flowers to finish, it certainly is a piece of art. A fool-proof recipe that uses ingredients from the pantry, this cheesecake is perfect for weekend baking. @melies_kitchen TART LEMON MERINGUE CHEESECAKE WITH GIN-ROASTED APRICOTS AND THYME FLOWERSRecipe by Amelia Ferrier This super easy, luscious lemon meringue cheesecake gets topped with sticky gin-roasted apricots: a match made in heaven. The cheesecake layer is similar to a key-lime pie made with egg yolks and condensed milk,…

PUMPKIN SAUCE 1½ kilograms crown pumpkin, peeled and seededolive oilsea salt and ground pepper1 tablespoon olive oil2 tablespoons tomato purée3 cloves garlic, crushed1 teaspoon chilli flakes1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg1 cup cream TO SERVE 400 grams lasagne sheets, cut into 6cm-wide long strips50 grams amaretti cookies80 grams pancetta, cooked until crisp12-16 large sage leaves cooked in a little olive oil until crisp Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Cut the pumpkin into 2cm chunks and place on a large baking tray. Toss with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until just tender, about 20 minutes. Put half the roasted pumpkin in a food processor along with the tomato purée, garlic, chilli, nutmeg and cream and season generously with salt and pepper. Blend briefly until smooth then…

Cheesy Polenta Cornbread with Jalapeños (v) The perfect cornbread should fill your kitchen with heavenly aromas and come out of the oven with a fluffy centre and crispy golden edges. 1½ cups plain flour1 cup instant polenta1 tablespoon baking powder2 teaspoons cumin seeds, toasted2 teaspoons sea salt1½ cups frozen sweetcorn kernels, thawed1 cup grated sharp cheddar cheese1½ cups milk100 grams butter, melted and cooled3 tablespoons runny honey2 large eggs1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary⅓ cup sliced pickled jalapeñoschilli flakes for sprinkling EQUIPMENT: Grease a 24cm cast iron frying pan or cake tin. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Combine the flour, polenta, baking powder, cumin seeds and salt in a large bowl. Add the corn and cheese and toss together with your fingertips so everything is coated in the flour.…

Smoky Brisket Sheet Pan Nachos This vibrant, cheesy dish is always a crowd pleaser. The brisket is cooked slow and low in a sweet and smoky sauce until tender and falling apart. Top with chunky salsa, guacamole and sour cream if you like. BRISKET 800-gram beef brisket, fat trimmed off2 tablespoons olive oil3 cloves garlic, finely chopped1½ tablespoons ground cumin2 teaspoons ground coriander2 teaspoons smoked paprika1 teaspoon ground cinnamon½ teaspoon chilli flakes½ teaspoon cracked pepper½ teaspoon sea salt4 tablespoons chipotle sauce½ cup barbecue sauce1.5-2 litres chicken stock GUACAMOLE 2 avocados, smashed2 tablespoons chopped coriander1 tablespoon lime juice¼ small red onion, finely chopped1 teaspoon hot saucesea salt SALSA 150 grams cherry tomatoes, sliced¼ small red onion, finely chopped3 green chillis, sliced⅓ cup fresh coriander leaves1 tablespoon lime juice TO SERVE 250…

Grilled Vegetable Salad with Lemon and Mustard Dressing Insalata di verdure grigliate con condimento al limone e mostarda This has to be one of my favourite salads of all time. For me it’s a real combination of Italy and the UK. The grilled vegetables and artichokes, which we eat almost daily in the South of Italy, mixed with the very popular avocado, honey and mustard are truly a perfect match. This really is a meal in itself, but of course you can add tuna, or a cheese such as feta or goat’s cheese, or even pieces of cooked chicken if you prefer. If you’re preparing this in advance, don’t add the avocado, dressing or lemon until ready to serve, or it will discolour the salad. 1 little gem lettuce2 zucchini,…

Notes for cooks RECIPE ABBREVIATIONS GF… … … … … … … … … … … …gluten-free V… … … … … … … … … … … … . vegetarian MEASURING YOUR INGREDIENTS To ensure successful results, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools – measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric. Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up. DISH USES: Large eggs (size 7). Level spoons and cup measurements. Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups. NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml). Oven temperatures Cool oven … … … . .225°F ……

The pure waters of Big Glory Bay in Stewart Island are to thank for the glorious flavour of this salmon. Characterised by its distinctive marbling, melt-in-the-mouth texture and exceptional flavour, the boneless Fresh King Salmon Portions make it easy to enjoy a boost of omega-3 for a quick lunch or dinner. bigglorybay.co.nz Cajun Salmon with Avocado Green Goddess Dressing 2 portions Big Glory Bay salmon (340-gram packet)runny honeysea salt SPICE RUB 1 teaspoon each ground cumin, coriander and brown sugar1 teaspoon smoked paprika½ teaspoon dried oregano¼-½ teaspoon hot chilli powder DRESSING 1 small avocado, halved2 tablespoons each sour cream and Greek style yoghurt¼ cup each coriander and parsley leaves, roughly chopped1 tablespoon pickled jalapeños 2 tablespoons juice from pickled jalapeños1 teaspoon ground cuminsea salt and ground pepper SALSA ½ cup…

Late February, 2023: Hi, Yvonne here. Sarah asked if I’d maybe write something about the events of the last couple of weeks and I said sure. But I really don’t know where this’ll go, so strap yourself in or tune out, either way it’s okay. You see, I’m writing this from my home in Hawke’s Bay. It’s where I was born and raised; it’s where my own children have grown up and where I’ve helped build businesses over recent decades. When I joined dish back in 2010, it made perfect sense for me to be living and working in the middle of one of the world’s greatest wine and food regions and I couldn’t wait to start introducing you, our readers, to more of Hawke’s Bay’s incredible produce, our wonderful…

Three-cheese, Caramelised Onion and Bacon Bread Pudding, page 69 Cassie Birrer: The aroma of this dish cooking in the kitchen during the photoshoot was just glorious. Of course, I had to taste test! A delicious combination of flavours – a little sweet and a little savoury – it’s something I’ll be making to share on a crisp autumn evening. Sarah’s Mum’s Chicken Croquettes, page 76 Caitlin Whiteman: As soon as I saw these crispy coated goodies, I was immediately taken back to my childhood in Christchurch. When Mum would buy me a croquette on our walk home from school, my tastebuds did a happy dance. So, the fact that this is Sarah’s mum’s recipe makes them feel all the more special. Sesame Prawn Toast, page 106 Sarah Tuck: I am…

What is smoked paprika? Smoked paprika hails from Spain and is made from red peppers that have been dried, smoked and ground into a powder. It can be made using sweet (dulce), semi-spicy or bittersweet (agridulce), or hot (picante) red peppers that deliver varying levels of heat. Cooking with smoked paprika Big and bold, smoked paprika will bring a woodsy, smoky taste and wonderful depth of flavour to your dishes. In recent years it’s become popular across a wide variety of cuisines and recipes and can be used in soups, stews, marinades, rubs and paella. We’ve used the ingredient in Baked Salmon with a Smoked Paprika and Rosemary Glaze (recipe in Issue #33 or at dish.co.nz), Smoky Sweetcorn Chowder (page 66), Eggplant Puttenesca on Soft Polenta (page 82) and Smoky…

It’s that time of year when feijoa trees in backyards across the country start filling with fruit. Available from March through June, feijoas are native to South America but have been adopted as their own by New Zealanders. Aromatic and sweet when picked at the right size, they’re a delicious addition to many dishes… here are some of our favourites! In cakes. One of the easiest ways to put a good amount of feijoas to use is by chopping them up and tossing them into a cake mixture. The Feijoa, Ginger and Cashew Nut Cakes (recipe online at dish.co.nz) are packed with flavour and are perfect for packing into a picnic basket, school lunch boxes or as a dessert with a dollop of mascarpone. Added to pies. Similar to many…

With a contagious passion for all things food, it’s no surprise Hercules Noble is making a name for himself in the kitchen – both in New Zealand and abroad. His foray into the industry wasn’t a planned one, though. “In my final year at college, I went back to being a day boy and I started watching a lot of Jamie Oliver when I got home in the afternoons. I started cooking his meals, and I was enjoying it – but I never really saw it as a career,” shares Hercules. But then teenage Hercules started a part-time job at Little & Friday while studying for the first semester of a design degree – and knew he had found what he wanted to do. “I was learning so much more…

Blueberry Hotcakes with Warm Spiced Honey Fluffy, light and very moreish hotcakes. The spice-infused honey adds a final flourish and I wouldn’t say no to a dollop of mascarpone. 250 grams firm ricotta½ cup milk3 tablespoons caster sugar1 teaspoon vanilla extract finely grated zest 1 orange2 large eggs, separated⅔ cup plain flour1 teaspoon baking powder pinch sea salt2 cups blueberriesSpice-infused Honey (see recipe below), to serve Stir the ricotta, milk, sugar, vanilla, orange zest and the egg yolks together in a large bowl. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt together then stir into the ricotta mixture. Whisk the egg whites to firm peaks then gently fold in to make a thick batter. Heat a frying pan with a little butter and add large spoonfuls of the batter. Top with…

MAIN OPTION 1 Our Perfect Steak with Cheat’s Cafe de Paris Butter This butter harks back to my catering days and has remained my absolute favourite for topping thick juicy steaks. 600-gram piece centre-cut eye fillet1 tablespoon olive oilsea salt and ground pepperhandful of salad leaves BUTTER 100 grams butter at room temperature½ cup packed parsley leaves2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 teaspoons dried tarragon2 teaspoons lemon juice2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard1 teaspoon sea salt½ teaspoon mild curry powder½ teaspoon smoked paprika Preheat the oven to 220°C fan bake. BUTTER: Blitz all the ingredients together in a small food processor. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Brush the fillet with oil and season with salt and pepper. Place in a shallow roasting dish and cook for 2…

1. BACON AND EGG FRIED RICE Kererū Alice Land Hazy NZ IPA, 440ml x 6pk ($49) To pair with this dish, I’m firing on all cylinders for the herbaceous, tropical tension in every can of this India Pale Ale. Each creamy sip complements the salty bacon sensationally. kererubrewing.co.nz 2. SMOKY BRISKET SHEET PAN NACHOS Astrolabe Comely Bank Waihopai Valley Pinot Noir 2020 ($44) This pinot noir is wild-fermented and oak-matured to create an intensely lush wine with earthy spices, velvety tannins, and cherry cola and cocoa notes to finish. Plush and lithe, it’s great with these nachos. astrolabewines.co.nz 3. CHICKEN CURRY ROLLS Villa Maria Attorney Marlborough Pinot Noir Rosé 2022 ($30) Something light and zesty and stacked with berries and classic spices – like this pinot noir rosé –…

Gino’s Italy is a celebration of the women in Gino’s life, and features over 80 delicious Italian recipes, many from Gino’s childhood – including One-pot Roast Chicken with Pearl Barley, White Wine and Peas, My Grandmother Flora’s Romanesco Artichokes, and Spicy Fish Soup with Tomatoes and Orange Zest. Along with the recipes, plenty of family stories are shared in the 256-page cookbook. Gino’s Italy by Gino D'Acampo, Bloomsbury, RRP $52.99.…

Marie van Drimmelen, a medical biochemist, and stand-up comedian Laura Bruce are the power couple behind Chemistry Gin. Fresh from winning gold medals at the prestigious Women’s Wine & Spirits Awards in London and for packaging from the Designers Institute NZ, Chemistry is a modern London Dry gin distilled in Karori, Wellington. The main botanicals, after juniper, are Sichuan (Szechwan) peppercorns, sage and seaweed. It’s also 100 percent vegan and the first gin in New Zealand bottled in ‘wild’ glass. “Wild glass is 100 percent post-consumer glass that’s full of imperfections and colour variations, yet needs just 35 percent fewer energy inputs to make it, so it’s way better for the planet than regular glass,” says Laura. The pair became fascinated with small-craft gin while living in the Highlands of…