Table of contents for May 2020 in delicious

FOR ONCE IN my professional life, I am lost for words. It’s so hard to know what to say. As we went to print for this issue, I decided to completely rewrite this letter as our world began changing by the hour. Each day brought devastating news from all aspects of our world at delicious .: closures for restaurants, bars, small businesses and chefs, challenges for the newsagents that sell our magazines, right through to the airlines, and travel companies we work with, the bottle shops and producers and suppliers were under threat. Not to mention, of course, the medical professionals on the front line. Our own team grappled with sending our very first issue to print entirely remotely. Fingers crossed we’ve been able to pull it off, as we…

“EXCITED TO LAUNCH AMERICAN EXPRESS DELICIOUS. MONTH OUT THIS EVENING! ”– MATT MORAN “Thanks to all our @deliciousaus friends, contributors and colleagues who came, saw and conquered Surry Hills!”– KERRIE McCALLUM “WE’RE THROWING EVERYTHING WE HAVE BEHIND CELEBRATING OUR AMAZING HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY.”– PHOEBE WOOD DELICIOUS. ON SOCIAL @deliciousAUS…

THERE IS SOMETHING about ragu that soothes the soul. It’s a dish that’s perfectly at home in different settings – from a casual weeknight dinner with friends, to a celebratory main course the whole family can dig into. Whatever the scene, a good ragu is comforting in every way. I like to wait for a cold, quiet night to cook this rich dish. I say quiet because hearing the thick, dark sauce bubbling away on the stove top is a great indication of when it is done. The bubbles start off small and end up big and rolling after a good few hours. Cooking isn’t just about sight, smell and taste – you have to listen, too. You can cook this ragu sauce a few days ahead and store in…

THIS HEARTY DISH is inspired by moussaka, but simpler to prepare. Everything is baked in one roasting pan, with the different elements added in stages. The topping cuts wonderfully through the richness of the eggplant and lamb. EGGPLANT, LAMB AND YOGHURT BAKE SERVES 4-6 75ml olive oil 1 large onion (about 200g), thinly sliced 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 3 eggplants (about 750g), roughly cut into 3cm cubes 500g lamb mince 1 tbs ground cinnamon 2 tsp ground allspice 1/2 tsp chilli flakes 4 tbs tomato paste 1 tbs oregano leaves, roughly chopped 1 400g can whole peeled tomatoes, roughly crushed (I used canned roma tomatoes) 700ml chicken stock 1 tbs parsley, roughly chopped TOPPING 450g Greek-style yoghurt 2 garlic cloves, crushed 3 large egg yolks 11/2 tbs plain flour…

I HAVE THIS love of fried chicken that borders on obsession. That moment when a perfectly fried bird has that crunch and is seasoned just right, the herbs and spices so perfectly balanced. It transports me – a moment of happiness in an otherwise maddening pursuit of perfecting my craft. I knew it as soon as I took that first bite of Nashville hot bird – I was a goner. I had to know how it was done, what made it so goddamn delicious. Then there’s the feeling you get when you cook a piece just so, spending the time preparing everything just perfect, the spices tried and tested, each gram measured and freshly ground, the flour sifted and sifted again, making it as light as possible before folding through…

ROASTED TOMATO & CAPSICUM SOUP WITH FETA SERVES 4-6 1kg roma tomatoes, scored with a cross on the top 2 red capsicums (about 450g total), seeds removed, halved lengthwise 1 red onion, halved 1 tsp smoked paprika 1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed 2 tbs extra virgin olive oil, plus 1 tsp extra 6 cups (1.5L) good-quality vegetable stock 1 bunch (250g) cherry truss tomatoes 200g firm Greek feta, drained 1/4 bunch oregano, leaves picked, to serve Preheat oven to 220°C. Grease a large baking tray and line with baking paper. Half-fill a large saucepan with water and place over high heat. Bring to the boil and blanch tomatoes for 30 seconds-1 minute until scored skin begins to fold back. Transfer tomatoes to a bowl of iced water and, working quickly,…

PLUM & WALNUT CRUMBLE SLICE SERVES 6-8 “EVERYBODY LOVES A CRUMBLE. THEY ARE THE PERFECT DISH FOR USING TOP-NOTCH AUTUMN PRODUCE.” 90g walnuts, chopped 2/3 cup (160g) brown sugar 1/2 cup (75g) plain flour 180g unsalted butter, softened 150g caster sugar 1 egg 170g self-raising flour 1/4 cup (90g) golden syrup 5 plums, seeds removed, cut into 5mm slices Preheat oven to 180°C. Line the base and sides of a 20cm x 30cm lamington pan with baking paper. To make the crumble, combine walnut, brown sugar, plain flour and a pinch of salt flakes in a large bowl. Add 80g butter and, using your fingertips, rub the mixture together to create chunky crumbs. Set aside. Melt remaining 100g butter and place in a large bowl with the caster sugar, egg,…

GRIFTER PINK GALAH PINK LEMONADE SOUR BEER, $5.50 A little touch of childhood in every can, or so I imagine the tagline goes. This is just like your kid’s RSL pink lemonade only it’s beer and it’s sourer and tangier. Such joy matched with this sausage roll. SWAN VALLEY WINES BORGHESI METODO CLASSICO SPARKLING NV, $28 This feels a little fancier than the price point and by virtue of that makes you feel a little fancier. Crisp, crunchy and dry with vivacious bubbles and citrus-meets-apple flavours. Dresses up this dish nicely. LOBO TRAD CIDER, $5 Cider and pork is a holy union and this traditional cider from one of Australia’s best cider makers is a treat with this dish. The dry, apple-y tang cuts through the sweet meat…

FEBRUARY’S MOST-LIKED POST 1524 likes, 34 comments Have you ever wondered how they get all the layers and ingredients incorporated in a Golden Gaytime just right? We put @warrenmendes to the task of re-creating this classic treat in a new episode of Nailed It! Watch it on our YouTube channel now. Photo: @til_pictures PLENTY MORE FISH: I made the oven-roasted salmon with maple and mustard herb crumb (February 2019, p 60) for lunch over the holiday weekend. All my guests loved it. In fact, several told their friends how good it was and they all went out to buy a copy of the magazine! There are so many great fish and potato salad recipes in this issue that I can’t wait to try.. Barbara Steuer TIME AFTER TIME: Greetings from…

When it comes to cooking and eating with an Italian sensibility, Ragazzi’s Scott McComas Williams is a master. Pairing classic dishes (some with a twist) with the best regional wines is key, and here, the chef shows us how. SCALLOP TARTARE, KOHLRABI AND APPLE SERVES 4-6 1/2 kohlrabi, trimmed, finely chopped 12 large sashimi-grade scallops, roe removed and discarded, cut into 1cm pieces 1/2 Granny Smith apple, core removed, finely chopped 1/2 bunch chives, cut into 2cm lengths 1/3 cup (80g) creme fraiche Store-bought pane carasau (Sardinian flatbread – from gourmet food shops), to serve DRESSING (MAKES APPROX. 1/2 CUP – 125ML) Juice of 1 lemon 11/2 tbs light soy sauce 1 tbs grapeseed oil 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 1/4 tsp ground white pepper Place the kohlrabi in…

DAYS ARE COOLER and a tad shorter. Our bodies crave the nourishment the shifting season demands and, luckily, these months give up some of the year’s best, most varied bounty: mandarins, persimmons, pears, avocados and root vegetables. When there are tonnes of mandarins around they are perfect to juice. I make a tonic by slow juicing them, adding oregano, and half a chilli, which gets your blood rushing. The oregano has antibacterial and antiviral qualities to help keep the good bugs in your tummy. Grab some mandarins from Watkins Orchard at Carriageworks. Persimmons are in good shape right now. They have a tonne of vitamin C to help boost immune systems. Slice thinly and use in a salad with olive oil, preserved lemons, capers and marjoram. Eden from Fanelli Organics…

“The slow-cooked caramelised zucchini is perfect with the sweet-and-salty clams. Don’t be tempted to speed up the zucchini cooking time.Slow and steady will be rewarded in the end.” PASTA WITH ZUCCHINI, GARLIC, CHILLI AND VONGOLE SERVES 4-6 400g spaghetti 1/2 cup (125ml) extra virgin olive oil 5 garlic cloves, sliced 1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes 5 zucchinis, trimmed, thinly sliced 1/3 cup (80ml) white wine 800g clams (vongole), purged 50g butter 1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves Finely grated pecorino, to serve Cook pasta according to packet instructions. Drain, reserving1/2 cup (125ml) pasta water and set aside pasta in separate bowls. Heat oil in a large, non-stick frypan with a lid over medium heat. Add garlic and chilli flakes, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute or until softened. Reduce…

THE TEMPERATURE “I was eating a piece of Southern fried chicken that was so perfect in temperature, I was compelled to ask the cook how it was done. ‘Honey, it’s simple. You gotta have that chicken outta the fridge at least two hours before the fry, otherwise your chicken gonna be no good.’” THE CRUNCH “It’s the attention during the process of 6 minutes 20 seconds of hot oil acrobatics and ninja-like focus that I love. The key is to not overcrowd your fry basket or skillet and shaking every 30 seconds, sometimes moving them around in the basket, making sure they stay submerged in the cooking oil. That’s the key to a good, crispy wing.” THE SIDES “Of course, there is the all-important pickle – sweet, salty slices of…

SIMPLE COOKING IS what I’ve always known and loved. It is the sort of food I grew up eating – thoughtful, considered and uncomplicated, in the best possible way. If we had good ingredients to begin with, little was needed to make a beautiful meal. Food and family are so intertwined. While cooking for family is, of course, to satisfy hunger, it is so much more. ‘Family food’ is generous and unfussy and demonstrates love and care – it is perfectly imperfect. For me, it is also about making rituals and creating special moments together; even something as simple as eggs on toast can be a joyous occasion when you are all together around the dining table. That notion of being together and sharing food at a table is a…

In Georgia, visitors are considered gifts from God. Georgians call them okros stumrebi , or ‘golden guests’, and are the epicentre of each experierience in the ever-hospitable country. Nowhere is this reverence for hospitality more palpable than Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital. As the city sheds its Soviet past, abandoned factories have been converted into modern bistros, crumbling yellow terraces open out to leafy organic wine bars, where cracking a bottle is met with a hearty toast to ‘the land, the food, the people’. And the food you ask? You can taste the world in the local dishes. Their traditional flatbread is baked in clay ovens, similar to a tandoor, and khinkali , broth-filled dumplings, rival Hong Kong’s. There’s a host of young chefs forging a retelling of Georgian culinary traditions, and…

DELICIOUS. AND DRINKS go together like a martini and an olive. Or Champagne and fries. Or gin and tonic. You get the drift… Drinks are a natural part of the delicious . experience. Whether you’re eating in, and want the perfect drop to match with your dinner, or a line-up to impress for your entertainer’s feast. Or you’re (eventually) eating out and want to know the best bars and cocktails around town, or the hotspots to get a coffee in your ’hood. Perhaps you’d like to know the latest news or a recipe to make the perfect Negroni? We have you covered. We know the delicious . audience is thirsty for more ( boom tish , particularly gin) and we’ve had a lot of fun creating a whole new world…

pretty in pink For a Mother’s Day gift that will keep on giving, look no further than Le Creuset’s Cocotte Every in shell pink. The versatile piece is suitable for everything from cooking rice to baking bread, while the new tone adds charm. Visit: lecreuset.com.au smooth operator Autumn calls for comfort food, and Lurpak’s slightly salted butter is the perfect culinary sidekick. The versatile condiment can be added to baked goods, sides and mains, or just spread generously on a slice of toast. Visit: lurpak.com/en-au heat of the moment Miele’s full-surface induction cooktop uses smart technology to make cooking effortless, featuring pan recognition for total surface flexibility and a TwinBooster function for rapid heat-up. Visit: harveynorman.com.au boxed in Boxed by Blonde Butler delivers gourmet goods across Sydney. Loved by those…

NOURISHING STAPLES “When I’m feeling weary (I think we all are at the moment) food is where I turn first. We all know that soup is good for the soul, but so are roast carrots – especially when they are sticky with maple and served with punchy harissa. And for real, sweet-tooth-approved nourishment, this flourless burnt butter, almond and honey cake is unbeatable.” Corinne Parkes, delicious . Subeditor ULTIMATE COMFORT “Comfort and familiarity go hand in hand for me. Therefore I am reaching for the everyday favourite wines, easy-to-drink crisp whites and soft, juicy reds. This menu cries out for bright, lively wines, of both colours, to cut through some of the richness. Go for a racy chardonnay and an Italian red.” Mike Bennie, Drinks Writer AUTUMN SHOWSTOPPERS “A pinot…

COCONUT & TURMERIC KEFIR WITH GINGER & CAYENNE SERVES 4 Begin this recipe at least 1 day ahead. You will need a 1L glass jar. 3 young coconuts (substitute coconut water) 1-2 probiotic capsules or 2 tbs water kefir grains (both from health food shops) 11/2 tbs finely grated fresh turmeric or 11/2 tsp ground turmeric 11/2 tbs finely grated ginger Pinch of cayenne pepper (more if desired) Preheat oven to 150°C. Wash a 1L glass jar and a non-metal spoon in hot soapy water, then run them through the dishwasher on a hot-rinse cycle to sterilise. Alternatively, place the jar and spoon in a large saucepan filled with water and boil for 10 minutes. Place on a baking tray in the oven until dry. Cool completely at room temperature.…

A: This is our dirty kebab! C: As the chef and the butcher growing up, this was a staple in our day-to-day diet. A: Absolutely. C: Where the kebab is now and where it’s come from is quite something. When I was younger it was the cheap peasant’s choice. It sustained us for years growing up. But now it’s come to the forefront. Now it’s trendy. So how do we modernise it like we’ve done with other food? A: Let’s use chicken marylands. I was thinking instead of a shawarma-on-the-spit thing, we could roast the marylands, then shred all the meat. And use that in the shawarma with the garlic sauce. C: Yes, it has to have garlic sauce. You have pita bread, then I was thinking as we visited…

“THIS LASAGNE IS ONE OF THE EASIEST – AND TASTIEST – PASTA BAKES YOU CAN MAKE. AND IT’S THE RECIPE TO SEE YOU THROUGH WINTER.” CHICKEN, LEEK & RICOTTA RIGATONI SERVES 6 “ANY ONE OF THESE GOLDEN, BUBBLING PASTA BAKES IS A MUST FOR A GREAT NIGHT IN. SERVE WITH A GLASS OF YOUR FAVOURITE WINE, OF COURSE.” 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 100g speck, cut into thin batons 2 leeks, finely sliced 1/2 bunch thyme, leaves picked 600g chicken thigh fillets, cut into 1cm strips 2 cups (500ml) pure (thin) cream 300g fresh ricotta 300g rigatoni, cooked to packet instructions, drained and refreshed 130g finely grated Gruyere or tasty cheddar Preheat oven to 180°C. Heat oil in a large ovenproof pan over medium-low heat and add speck,…

SHANE DELIA IS the king of meze. Before the recent nationwide restaurant closures, the chef’s Maha Bar (a play on the Arabic word marhaba, meaning ‘welcome’) was receiving praise for its dishes that perfectly pair with the bar’s extensive drinks list – from arak and raki (anise-flavoured drink) to classic cocktails and biodynamic wines. One such dish – the roast carrots with dill, maple, harissa and hummus. “I wanted to make carrots the focus, and hummus the vessel to carry the spices and flavours. And it makes for perfect meze because it’s easy to make. Pair it with an oaky chardonnay to bring out the flavours.” For the ultimate pairing, Delia says you can’t go past the pan-roasted duck (“the muhammara [hot pepper dip] lifts this dish”), served with the…

IF THERE WAS ever a time for a slice of cake, this is it. In a climate where comfort is in short supply (along with some pantry staples more recently), the sweet ritual of baking provides solace. And that’s where Matt Moran comes in. “I love flourless cakes because they’re wholesome,” he says. “They have a bit more protein in them because you’re using nut meals. They also tend to be more dense which, for me, makes them very comforting.” All that’s left to do is add some seasonal produce such as rhubarb, apples and mandarins, and you have a cake that’s up to the task. “I like using some different sweeteners, too, like native honey for its floral tones, molasses for richness, and rapadura for the maltiness it brings.…

PHOTOGRAPHY SARAH HEWER BORDERED BY AN ocean that feels untamed, and with stations and plantations stretching from the coast to the outback, the Gascoyne and neighbouring Murchison regions offer produce that makes West Australian menus sing. Our mission during the month-long Gascoyne Food Festival: to discover the vast regions, the producers and this epic Australian landscape. TO THE SOURCE: CARNARVON It’s early August in Carnarvon, 890 kilometres north of Perth. It’s a town synonymous with bananas, and we walk beneath the enclosed canopy at industry veteran Tom Day’s plantation. They’re spray-free up here, he explains, beneficial bugs used for control, and while you may think bananas are pretty uniform, they’re not. In this sub-tropical climate it can take 18 months for bananas to reach maturity – just nine in tropical Queensland.…

From the rooftop bar of boutique Hu Hotel we see the mighty Mississippi River flow and the bones of Memphis. The hotel’s Lifestyle manager, Chad West, says with a Southern drawl that “Memphis is a city of serendipity” where spirited millennials are carving out a city beyond blues and the legacy of Elvis. West talks of buildings vacant for decades springing back to life, and the near demolition of icons like the Peabody Hotel, famed for its daily duck parade. We’re in Memphis as it turns 200. In a few short days the city captivates us as much for the people and their enthusiasm, as for the history. WC Handy fathered the Blues here. From a brick studio storefront, Sun Studios, Elvis Presley cut discs: his music and his hips…

PERHAPS MORE THAN anywhere, we Australians love to share a drink. And because we so enjoy socialising, a celebratory toast, and the sound of ice against glass, we have an uncommon respect for the arts of winemaking, distilling and brewing. “It’s very rare anywhere on earth that people have the same cognisance around wine regions and varieties,” says delicious . drinks guru Mike Bennie. It’s little surprise then, that from vine to vat, Australia is a stronghold when it comes to innovation in the drinks industry. Merrily, in the past three years, there’s been a real swing toward innovation that comes with a healthy pour of do-gooding, from commitment to provenance, land care, indigenous ingredients, and even social responsibility. “We’ve never been more innovative,” says Bennie. “There’s a sense of…

I LOVE A drink, and while there is nothing wrong with knocking the top off a stubby or opening a cheeky bottle of sauv blanc (no matter what the wine snobs say), I prefer the reliable consistency of spirits. The twang of a good G&T, the pleasure of a perfectly balanced martini, or the joy of a rum and Coke at the footy. Back in the ’50s, it was far more common for a home to have a bar, and the cocktail shaker to be employed regularly. Cocktails in the 2020s, however, are a far more egalitarian affair – no fancy cocktail shaker or strainer required. Just chill your glasses and away you go! Here are some of my favourite mixed drinks to make at home for friends. DIRTY NEGRONI…