Table of contents for April 2020 in delicious

NO MATTER YOUR religious sentiments, there is one word that comes to mind at Easter (other than chocolate), and that is joy. Joy that Feb Fast is over (I lasted one day). Joy that green smoothies are out and hot chocolate is in. The joy of a new season arriving, with pantries that overflow with autumnal produce, and the prospect of making pastry or cooking for days feels cosy and cathartic rather than a sweltering summer chore. The joy of a warm fragrant tart or pie, packed with ripe fruit, or a baked-from-scratch batch of hot cross buns, or the pleasure of crafting a menu for a long lunch with family and friends. Joy is even a hashtag that doesn’t make me cringe. Mostly. Nothing puts a smile on your…

RENOWNED FOR HIS use of fresh local produce, Botanic Gardens Restaurant head chef Paul Baker will put this status on show as he and the delicious . crew host a spectacular dinner party in the heart of the Adelaide Botanic Gardens. The evening begins with Champagne, cocktails and canapés before a three-course dinner with matching wines is served under the canopy of the gardens’ towering 150-year-old Moreton Bay fig trees. Sample Baker’s mod-Oz flavours sourced from abundant vegetable, herb and fruit gardens on site, while sipping on some of the Barossa’s finest drops from Peter Lehmann Wines. Don’t miss out – book your ticket now using the link to the right. WHERE Botanic Gardens Restaurant Plane Tree Drive, Botanic Gardens of Adelaide Adelaide, South Australia WHEN 6.30pm, Friday, April 3…

CAPSICUM “The end of summer is when capsicums are at their prime. They are ripe and sweet, and have that characteristic aroma. One of my favourite flavours is capsicum that’s been charred and blistered. Then you enhance the sweetness with a little bit of honey, olive oil, and some sharpness from the vinegar. The balance is unbelievable with goat’s cheese and gnocco fritto.” MUSHROOM “We used chestnut mushrooms in this recipe because they’re readily available, but if I were to make this at home, I’d go out and pick saffron milk caps or wild porcinis and get that ragu on. Of course, you could substitute any mushroom; think of this as a guide, though I don’t recommend going out and picking mushrooms if you don’t know what you’re doing.” FLOUNDER…

VIOLET CRUMBLE SERVES 6-8 You will need a sugar thermometer for this recipe. 100g runny honey 230g coconut sugar 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda, sifted 200g dark (100%) unsweetened chocolate, chopped Grease a 16cm x 30cm high-sided baking tray and line with baking paper, leaving 5cm overhanging. Place honey, coconut sugar and 1 tbs water in a large deep saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes until smooth. Increase heat to medium and boil for 2-3 minutes until temperature reaches 150°C on a sugar thermometer. Remove the saucepan from the heat and, working quickly, whisk in the bicarb to dissolve (the mixture will triple in size). Immediately pour mixture onto the prepared tray, then place in the freezer for 30 minutes or until set. Place the chocolate…

FILLED TO THE brim after a big Easter lunch, there is definitely no more room for dessert. That is, until grandma or ‘sitha’ comes out with coffee and tea. And then come the biscuits! The next thing you know, you’ve devoured a whole tray of cookies while sipping your coffee and you don’t even know how it all happened. This was the case last Easter at our place with these cracked cookies – you start and you can’t stop. On that note, feel free to double the recipe if required! These cookies are named for their ‘cracked’ finish. And while there are those who love crunchy cookies and those who prefer the chewy variety, this one is chewy inside and crunchy on the outside. The key to making these cookies…

A: It's got to be lamb for Easter. But we’ve always done a leg of lamb or a lamb shoulder, so let’s do lamb shanks. Lamb shank shepherd’s pie. Slow-braised lamb shanks with a delicious cheesy potato top. C: Let’s go fancy. I usually use mince for a pie, but if you braise lamb shanks they get this gelatinous texture. A: Unctuous! C: And then you hide the shredded lamb meat under the duvet… A: Doona. It's a doona. C: …the duvet of mashed potato. A: If you're feeling fancy, you can shred the meat off the bone, but you keep one bone and stick it through the mash. C: It’s superficial, but it looks good! It’s been done for years in pubs, though. So we don't need to at…

“WHO DOESN’T LOVE ONE-PAN ROASTS? APART FROM SAVING TIME – AND WASHING UP – THEY ALSO ALLOW FOR FLAVOURS TO GET A RICH BOOST. ” MUSTARD ROAST CHICKEN WITH SPICED SPINACH SERVES 4 You will need kitchen string for this recipe. 2 tbs Dijon mustard 80g unsalted butter, chopped, room temperature 1.6kg whole organic chicken 11/2 tsp fennel seeds, roughly crushed 300g baby spinach leaves 1/2 small garlic clove, crushed 1/3 cup tarragon leaves Preheat oven to 180°C. Combine mustard and butter in a bowl to make a smooth paste. Using your hand, gently loosen the skin from the flesh of the chicken breasts and thighs, being careful not to tear it. Spread butter as evenly as possible under the skin. Place chicken in a flameproof roasting pan and tie…

“WHILE KEY TO CLASSIC CARBONARA, EGGS ARE ALSO ESSENTIAL FOR QUICK, COMFORTING MEALS SUCH AS CURRIES, OMELETTES AND TORTILLAS.” POACHED EGGS, CHORIZO, WHITE BEANS AND WHIPPED RICOTTA SERVES 4, AS A LIGHT MEAL Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, juice of 2 lemons 1 bunch silverbeet, stalks removed and discarded, leaves torn 500g firm ricotta, drained 80g unsalted butter, chopped 2 dried chorizo, sliced into rounds 2 x 400g can white beans, drained 2 tsp dukkah, plus extra to serve 1 small red onion, thinly sliced (we used a mandoline) White vinegar, to poach 4 eggs Chargrilled baguette, to serve Place three-quarters of the lemon juice in a large bowl with silverbeet. Season and toss to combine. Stand for 30 minutes, at room temperature, to soften. Meanwhile, place ricotta, remaining…

“THIS GOOEY FLOURLESS CAKE WAS INSPIRED BY ‘CHOCOLATE WITH RUM’, A RECIPE IN SALVADOR DALI’S COOKBOOK LES DINERS DE GALA.” CHOCOLATE. NO OTHER food has the same beguiling, delicious pull on our senses. Almost magically, and alone among the things we eat, chocolate melts at around body temperature, flooding our mouth with voluptuous sweetness, an array of flavours and a whisper of bitterness as soon as we place it on our tongue. Its chemistry lights up the pleasure centres in our brain, energises us and sates our hunger. But chocolate is more than just an edible delight. Chocolate is nostalgia. A simple bite into a favourite bar can carry us back to our first childhood treat, that sweet reward for good behaviour, or the comforting snack when we were sad.…

BURGUNDY, WITH ITS history and world-renowned terroir , is a very special place. This is my third trip with Tastes Of Burgundy and it’s always such a pleasure; I’ve already made plans for a return in 2021. Guests arrive on a Friday afternoon at the Chateau de Barbirey in the Vallee de l’Ouche, and are greeted with a glass of Champagne. Wandering through the chateau, we take in the beauty of our surrounds as we approach the terrace that overlooks the lake and the park. This is the spot where the evening’s aperitifs, Champagnes and gin and tonics, are enjoyed by guests, while they listen to the songbird and the chimes from the local church bells. Focusing on guests’ relaxation, Tastes of Burgundy is a truly luxurious way to recharge,…

THERE IS SOMETHING truly magical about an African sunset. Maybe it’s the crisp evening air colliding with red dust as weary wildlife settle in for bed. Or perhaps it’s the gin and tonic going to my head following a euphoric day of animal spotting. Either way, it is an experience that resets the pace of your heartbeat. I grew up in South Africa and have been on safari many times, but have always wanted to visit Sabi Sabi, a private game reserve adjoining Kruger National Park that boasts four ultra-luxury lodges. After a trip to my hometown, Johannesburg, I jumped on an easy one-hour flight, landing at the local airstrip in Sabi Sabi. In no time I was tucking into a three-course lunch at Earth Lodge, an oasis built into…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS FEBRUARY’S MOST-LIKED POST 1864 likes, 25 comments Fact: long weekends are perfect for taking on cooking projects. First cab off the rank is this watermelon-rose panna cotta with meringue number by@chefmattmoran. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au. PIECE OF CAKE: My beloved dog Audrey had her first birthday recently, so I just had to make the cake on the November issue cover to celebrate. My version wasn’t quite like the cover photo, but she loved it and all her party guests were impressed. Audrey was only allowed a small slice and was slightly miffed that her friends got to eat more than her! Glenda Grice PICK AND MIX: My 91-year-old mother recently handed down to me her mixer from 1958, so what a joy it was to put it into…

DELICIOUS. @ PATRON “WE CELEBRATED OUR 18TH BIRTHDAY THE TRADITIONAL WAY WITH TEQUILA!”– KERRIE McCALLUM 1. Patrón cocktails fuelled the delicious . 18th birthday bash. 2. Perched on the harbour beneath Sydney’s Museum of Contemporary Art, the entrance to the Patrón pop-up was a visual spectacle. 3. Matt Moran and Monty Koludrovic. 4. Mark McKie and Mitch Edwards. 5. Colin Fassnidge, David Abela and Manu Feildel. 6. The classic Paloma cocktail was just one of the expertly balanced drinks on offer. 7. Patrón’s signature styling decorated the space. 8. Matt Preston, Merrick Watts and Justine Schofield. 9. delicious . food director Phoebe Wood, John Susman and Mim Stacey. 10. Modern-Mexican fare was the perfect accompaniment to the cocktails. 11. delicious. editor-in-chief Kerrie McCallum with Jonathon Moran. 12. Guests enjoyed an…

MY FAVOURITE FRUIT of all time is the quince. People are intimidated by it, as it’s not a classic fruit you can eat raw. The South Americans do, however, by slicing and sprinkling it with salt. A more common way to eat quince is cooked. Cut it in half and bake with honey and spices, or pan-fry with witlof leaves to serve with pork or strong-flavoured fish like mackerel. I start hunting for mushrooms in April. If the weather has cooled enough, saffron milk caps (pine mushrooms) are a real treat. The large parasols are delicious roasted whole with garlic, butter, thyme and breadcrumbs. For those who don’t have time to forage, The Fungi and Margin’s Mushrooms at Carriageworks Farmers’ Market has an extensive assortment. Pumpkins and pattypan squash are…

IN THE IMMORTAL WORDS of David Bowie, ‘ch-ch-ch-ch-changes, turn and face the strange…’ That’s right, this is the last you’ll see of this column. Next month the drinks pages evolve, and I am joined by my friend, the wine-loving comedian and presenter Merrick Watts, for our new column 'The Critic and The Comic'. Much like our pals Fass and Anthony over on the next few pages, we’re going head-to-head each month. Our new column will focus on food-and-wine matching, and Merrick and I will be doing the oh-so-very difficult task of sitting down over a dish and discussing best combinations. Fun and learning do go hand-in-hand. With this in mind, I thought that this ‘final' column could focus on some of my favourite drink-and-food matches. These are real world, non-restaurant…

“IN SOME WAYS I PREFER EASTER TO CHRISTMAS BECAUSE IT’S MORE OF A RELAXED FAMILY OCCASION WITH PLENTY OF LOVELY MEALS.” WHETHER RICK STEIN is celebrating in Cornwall or Mollymook, there’s only one tradition he upholds every year. “That is, the massive amount of Easter eggs I eat on Sunday morning.” He and wife Sarah divide their time between the UK and Australia. “Sas and I try to do Easter one year in Cornwall and one year in Australia, and if possible, in Australia we will go to Bannisters at Mollymook. Interestingly, unlike Christmas the weather can be quite similar in both countries around this holiday period.” Good Friday marks easy work for the fish whisperer, who prefers to skip the usual fried fillets for something a bit more comforting.…

WE BAKE SWEET to celebrate birth, birthdays and unions, and to mark life passing. We don’t bake sweet to survive or to simply sustain. It is a gift, a powerful elixir of pleasure, connection, generosity and joy. In a world of ‘fast’ and oversimplification, where we seem to be losing the art of making nice things, I hope I can inspire you to fall in love with baking from scratch. Like making your own pasta, relish the ritual of making and rolling pastry from its basic ingredients. A well-crafted, baked-from-scratch cake made from good things (cultured butter, free-range eggs and seasonal produce) is a perfect sometimes treat, far better than mass-produced, over-processed products every time. A final crucial note of advice before you start on your baking adventure. Always read…

FRUIT, NO FRUIT, CHOCOLATE, NO CHOCOLATE – the hot cross bun debate is often peppered with controversy. So where does Matt Moran stand? “I love fruit hot cross buns – they’re here to stay!” he says. “But because it’s Easter, I like to throw a bit of chocolate in there, too, it makes things a bit more festive.” Moran’s takes on hot cross buns cover every flavour territory, and they’re anything but ordinary. “We’ve taken different dietary needs into consideration: I’ve made a gluten-free option and experimented with flours, too,” says Moran. Choc-raisin is elevated with spelt flour and Pedro Ximénez, a “beautiful sweet, sherry that has a bit of bite to it. To me, it’s top shelf”, and the nuttiness of wholemeal flour helps to make the ultimate savoury…

trust in tradition Four generations of master salt makers have been hand harvesting the signature, naturally formed pyramid salt crystals that Maldon is known for. Based in a small coastal town in the UK, the same artisan methods have been used since 1882, making it truly iconic. Visit: maldonsalt.co.uk dark horse Westinghouse’s sleek 600mm dark stainless-steel finish oven is the right fit for a modern kitchen. Impatient cooks will rejoice at its fast heat-up time, while touch controls, steam functionality and a unique cleaning system ensures effortless cooking. Visit: harveynorman.com.au on the seashore With Le Creuset’s cocotte in shell pink, a hue inspired by the soft tones of seashells, everyday cooking just became a lot more good-looking. The versatile, deep kitchen staple is suitable for cooking rice, baking bread or…

EASTER SWEETS Choc-raisin hot cross buns with Pedro Ximénez glaze, p 106 Melt-and-mix white choc and ginger mud cake, p 118 Lemon curd cream crepe cake, p 82 “Life gets sweeter around Easter and I love it. Hot cross buns are a must, and I’m always intrigued by new twists on the classic. I’ve added these grown-up choc-raisin hot cross buns with Pedro Ximénez glaze to my Good Friday menu. A four-day Italian feast in my family requires a dessert strategy, so I’ve planned a melt-and-mix white choc and ginger mud cake for Sunday lunch, and a lighter lemon curd cream crepe cake for Easter Monday recovery. I’m not expecting any leftovers.” Katherine Gennusa, delicious. Designer LONG LUNCH Marinated flounder with lemon & parsley butter, p 21 Cape Mentelle 2019…

BLISTERED PEPPERS WITH GNOCCO FRITTO SERVES 6 Vegetable oil (we used grapeseed), to fry 250g goat’s curd Flat-leaf parsley leaves, fried, to serve BLISTERED PEPPERS 6 red capsicums 30g runny honey 1/4 cup (60ml) apple cider vinegar GNOCCO FRITTO 1 tbs extra virgin olive oil 7g (1 sachet) dried yeast 3 1/3 cup (500g) plain flour 10g salt For the blistered peppers, char capsicums over an open flame, turning frequently, for 8-10 minutes until the skin has blackened. (Alternatively, place under a grill on high heat and grill, turning frequently, until blackened.) Place in a heatproof bowl and cover with plastic wrap for 10 minutes until the skin loosens, then peel and remove stems and seeds. Slice into strips and place in a bowl with honey and vinegar. Season and…

FIG AND CHOCOLATE SPONGE WITH RUM AND ORANGE SERVES 4, GENEROUSLY 1/2 cup (110g) caster sugar 2 tbs dark rum 1 orange; 1 tbs juice, 2 tsp finely grated zest 400g ripe figs (around 10), tough stems removed and halved lengthways 2 eggs, separated 1/4 cup (35g) plain flour 15g cocoa powder 1/4 tsp salt flakes 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 100ml double cream 40g dark (70%) chocolate, roughly chopped into 1cm pieces Creme fraiche, to serve Preheat the oven to 170°C. Add 60g sugar to a small, oven-proof, high-sided saute pan with a 14cm base. Place on a medium-high heat and cook for 8-10 minutes, swirling the pan a few times, until the sugar has melted and turned a dark, caramel colour. Add the rum– be careful, it will…

NORMALLY, I LIKE TO smugly celebrate my culinary successes here. But, for the baking issue, I feel I should finally come clean about my baking fails. Here goes… Not checking the recipe: Cooking in front of an audience can lead to all manner of disasters, whether it’s leaving the lid unsecured on a liquidiser and splatter-painting the stage, or turning out a cake and the sludgy, uncooked middle plopping on the bench. I’ve been there too – realising halfway through shooting a masterclass that the butter for my banana bread had been doubled. And then, only recently, I was in South Africa doing a raft of demos, and drew a terrifying blank in front 1500 people when I came to my microwaved pudding. For the life of me, I couldn’t…

“This is basically a pizza on a tart crust rather than bread dough, and there is nothing wrong with that! The anchovies melt into the sweet onions and add umami richness. Do leave them out if you want to keep it vegetarian.” A GOOD DOUGH recipe for a tart is an excellent thing to have in your repertoire and frozen doughs are handy as they can get you out of a cooking rut quickly. Even though I have made hundreds, I still feel a sense of wonderment when I see a perfectly baked tart come out of the oven. Nothing elicits more “oohs and ahhs” than a golden-brown tart. And anyone can do it because it doesn’t matter if the tart isn’t perfect! Most people think of a tart as…

@phoeberosewood NEENISH TARTS (THAT ACTUALLY TASTE GOOD) MAKES 12 “I'VE GIVEN THESE NOSTALGIC TREATS A LITTLE MODERN MAKEOVER.” These are an iconic Aussie bakery treat, but stuffed full of mock cream, they can be incredibly sweet. Here I've used panna cotta and white and dark chocolate ganache for Neenish tarts that taste as good as they look. Begin this recipe at least 4 hours ahead. 900ml pure (thin) cream 250g raspberry jam 2 tsp vanilla bean paste 4 titanium-strength gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water for 5 minutes 12 sweet shortcrust tart shells (we used 10cm x 110ml capacity tart shells) 150g dark (70%) chocolate, finely chopped 150g white chocolate, finely chopped To make the panna cotta filling, place 650ml cream, jam and vanilla in a saucepan over medium heat.…

“JUST A LITTLE SALT AMPLIFIES THE FLAVOUR OF THE WHITE CHOCOLATE AND PECANS IN THIS CRUMBLY SHORTBREAD.” WHITE CHOCOLATE CUSTARD TART WITH NUTMEG PASTRY “WHITE CHOCOLATE IS A WONDERFUL INGREDIENT WITH SO MUCH VERSATILITY. I LOVE ALL THE WAYS IT ADDS SWEETNESS AND SOPHISTICATION TO DESSERTS, WHETHER MELTED INTO RICH CUSTARD, FOLDED INTO PASTRY OR STIRRED INTO AN IRRESISTIBLE CARAMEL.” SERVES 8-10 This pastry is soft and delicate – I like to make the pastry the day before while the custard thickens overnight in the fridge. The texture of this tart is very silky, so it’s worth taking the time. Begin this recipe 1 day ahead. 100g cold unsalted butter, chopped 100g pure icing sugar, sifted 11/2 cups (225g) plain flour 1/2 tsp baking powder 2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg,…

MY FATHER WAS born in Lanisce, a hillside northern region of Istria, in Croatia. It’s a very tiny village with only about 88 people – at peak hour! Here, you’ll find beautiful rolling hills with incredible food and wine. It’s also the epicentre of truffles, and, in spring, wild asparagus grows like grass! Pula, a small seaside town in Istria, is where my father grew up and spent most of his teenage years. One of the town’s most famous – and charming – sites is its own version of Rome’s Colosseum. Once ruled by the Romans, the ‘Arena’, as it is locally known, is a stunning building. Concerts and operas are held at twilight here in spring and summer. Pula is also a major fishing port, so the seafood is…