Table of contents for September/October 2018 in Bake from Scratch

I CAN ALWAYS TELL IT’S AUTUMN from the spicy, buttery scent of pumpkin bread baking in my oven. The aroma is back and the wait is over, bakers. Fall baking is all about the harvest, that big bounty of squash, apples, pumpkins, and pears. This year we’re representing more than just the usual suspects. We’re gettin’ figgy with it, adding fresh, dried, and poached figs to some of our favorite fall baked goods. Then we show some much overdue love to the Concord grape with bars, cake, and one showstopping focaccia. But don’t worry—all the autumn stars get their due, from a braided Pumpkin-Date Babka (page 112) to Apple-Cranberry Pull-Apart Bread (page 77). Whatever else you’re craving you’ll find packed into one of our seasonal fall sheet cakes, like our…

Dutch oven bread offers everything you could ever want in a baked loaf—a glossy, scored boule with a crust that crackles when sliced and a flavorful, chewy interior. It’s the kind of bread that calls to mind the primordial, flaming hearth rather than the humble home oven. But here’s the simple fact: The best bread in the world can come from your own home kitchen, all thanks to the power of the Dutch oven. Over a decade ago, Sullivan Street Bakery maven Jim Lahey shared his revolutionary recipe for hearth-style bread with the New York Times. It’s the recipe that’s launched a thousand artisan-style loaves thanks in large part to two features: a low-key, no-knead dough and an Inception-style bake in the Dutch oven—an oven-within-an-oven baking approach. The heavy-duty Dutch…

SPICE CAKE WITH GINGER PORT-POACHED FIGS Makes 1 (9-inch) cake This moist cake is the perfect backdrop for any fall fruit, but there’s something transcendent about covering it with aromatic port-poached figs. A final dollop of crème fraîche brings a cool, tangy finish to this warmly spiced slice of heaven. 1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar ¾ cup (180 grams) whole buttermilk ¾ cup (168 grams) vegetable oil ½ cup (170 grams) molasses 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten 2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract 3 cups (375 grams) cake flour 1½ teaspoons (3 grams) ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking soda 1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg Scant ¼ teaspoon ground cloves Ginger Port-Poached Figs (recipe follows)…

It was the zserbó, a cake of alternating walnut and apricot jam layers topped in chocolate, that first seduced me when I moved to Budapest from New York three years ago. Later came the squares of Rákóczi túrós, cottage cheese cake covered in a lattice of meringue speckled with apricot jam, and the Isler, the jam-filled Linzer sandwich shellacked in a luminous robe of chocolate. As I delved deeper into my new expat life by the day, it was the old-fashioned pastry shop, the cukrászda, that was my anchor. Chicken simmered in paprika and beef- and pork-stuffed cabbage rolls are among the beguiling cornerstones of hearty Hungarian cuisine, but it was the desserts that intrigued me. As I got to know kürtoskalács, the cylindrical-shaped, spit-fired cake typically sold on the…

In the morning, along the tree-lined calles of Mexico City, the capital quietly bustles. The fountains of the many (many) parks gurgle to life. Street-side taquerias begin setting their colorful tableaux of salsas, meats, and fragrant chopped onions and cilantro. Markets open the daily trade of fruits and vegetables. Cafés rouse the weary—this is a late-night town—with café con leche and cinnamon-scented hot chocolate. And the plethora of bakeries, or panaderías or pastelerías, fills the air with the wheat- and yeast-laced aroma of freshly baked pan dulce. These sweet breads, of which there are some 2,000 different varieties, form the backbone of the Mexican breadbasket, from abrazos (a type of folded Danish with a dollop of cream) to orejas (palmiers, or elephant ears). But there is nothing more popular or…

MARK WEINBERG  Mark Weinberg is a food and interiors photographer based in New York, New York, where he lives with his wife and two kids in a 704-square-foot apartment. In his tiny kitchen, Mark has baked over 250 pies, his favorite baked good. He photographs for advertising and editorial clients including Food52, West Elm, Target, and Garnet Hill. Bundt cake or sheet cake? “Bundt cake. I’m not a frosting lover, so I like that most Bundts only have a drizzle—or none at all!” ALIA AKKAM Alia Akkam is a food, drink, travel, and design writer who loves covering the intersection of these different worlds. She has written for outlets like Hospitality Design, Playboy, and The Wall Street Journal. A native New Yorker, she now calls Budapest, Hungary, home and is…

ROSEMARY-TALEGGIO KNISH Makes 9 This is not your bubbie’s knish, but it will conquer the craving and then some. Traditional knish dough is rather soft and can be manipulated to be very thin; this dough is on the flakier side. The dough is simply patted out with your hands, then filled with a decadent combination of herby mashed potatoes and a fat wedge of Taleggio. 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour ½ cup (112 grams) vegetable oil ⅓ cup (80 grams) cool water (60°F/15°C) ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted 2 large eggs (100 grams), divided 1 large egg yolk (19 grams) 1¼ teaspoons (6.25 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) fine sea salt 2 pounds (910 grams) russet potatoes, peeled and diced 5 tablespoons (70 grams) unsalted…

Step 1: Start with a hot Dutch oven. HOW: Thirty minutes before your boule finishes its final proof, place your pot in a cold oven and preheat to 500°F (260°C). WHY: The revolutionary power of the Dutch oven lies in its ability to create a high-heat environment that forces the bread to rapidly release its gases into an intense wave of steam, a process known as oven spring. Don’t let it sit in the oven past 30 minutes, or the Dutch oven will scorch the bottom of your loaf. Step 2: Place your dough in the preheated Dutch oven. HOW: You can quickly drop your dough into the dish by hand or, for the accident-prone, use a parchment paper sling to slide it in. WHY: You’re about to seal your…

It’s simple, ring-shaped, and all-American, with sculpted curves and a perfectly golden crust—no frills or frosting required. The Bundt is elegant yet effortless. For more than five decades, it’s been a staple at potluck picnics, holiday meals, and every celebration in between. The 1960s saw many changes, and for bakers, one of those was the breakthrough of the Bundt. It proved that one doesn’t have to be a skilled baker to bake a beautiful cake. At the peak of Bundt mania, Nordic Ware, the pan’s purveyor, was cranking out 30,000 pans a week and still couldn’t make enough to keep department store shelves stocked. Today, the Bundt pan is the top-selling cake pan in the world. Two out of three kitchens in America has one, and you can even go…

Material and Color Matter. Bundt pans come in glass, stoneware, and silicone, but the best pans are cast aluminum or coated steel. We prefer aluminum because of its even heat conductivity and durability. Light-colored pans lend perfectly baked cakes, while darker surfaces can overly brown crusts. Ready to Bake. Even with a nonstick surface, it’s still a good idea to prepare the inside of your pan. Baking spray with flour works best for Bundts. To avoid overflow in the oven, do not fill the pan more than three-fourths full with batter. Always let your cake cool for 10 to 15 minutes before removing from the pan.…

Makes 15 To give our version of this Mexican sweet roll an even more tender, heightened pillowy texture than the traditional recipe, we enrich the dough with more butter and milk. The classic crunchy, sugary streusel topping is delicious as is, but you’ll adore our two indulgent flavor variations of Mexican chocolate and Chinese five-spice. 4¼ cups (531 grams) all-purpose flour, divided ⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt ⅔ cup (150 grams) evaporated milk ⅓ cup (76 grams) water 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter, softened and cubed 2 large eggs (100 grams) Egg Streusel Topping Three Ways (recipe follows) 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat 2 cups (250…

A practice used in professional kitchens and bakeries, mise en place refers to assembling all of your tools and ingredients before you begin cooking. This is especially important for making a caramel sauce. You’ll need to have your cream, butter, and vanilla measured before you start. Caramel requires speed and forethought because once the sugar begins to darken, it takes only seconds to go from perfect to burnt. Use the mise en place system for all of your baking, and watch your life transform.…

SISTER PIE (Lorena Jones Books) by Lisa Ludwinski This cookbook from the beloved pie-focused bakery Sister Pie, based in Detroit, Michigan, pulls double duty. The first half of the book serves up a master class on making pie, from mixing together a rich and juicy filling to weaving buttery piecrust. In the second half, you’ll find the rest of the goods, with unusual highlights like Peanut Butter Paprika Cookies and Salty Malty Chocolate Scones. CAN’T WAIT TO MAKE: Salted Maple Pie, a favorite dish of Sister Pie regulars, which packs a sweet and salty punch in the form of a traditional chess pie. RED TRUCK BAKERY COOKBOOK (Clarkson Potter) by Brian Noyes Located about an hour outside of Washington, D.C., in Marshall, Virginia, the quaint Red Truck Bakery offers a…

Oats are a secret weapon for bakers in the know. Want to take your chocolate chip cookie from basic to bold? Oats bring nutty chewiness to the party and amp up both the flavor and texture. Need your next streusel to sing? Stir in some oats, and watch your muffins and coffee cakes go next level. And every fruit filling in the land of crumbles wants some toasty oats to snuggle under. This powerhouse grain has been sustaining people for millennia. Oats are one of the healthiest and most nutrient-dense grains you can eat, with plenty of fiber and protein rounding out the vitamins. But the best thing about oats is their delicious flavor. And they are simply an amazing ingredient for baking. They can also be a bit confusing,…

CONCORD GRAPE UPSIDE-DOWN MINI LOAF CAKES Makes 3 These petite upside-down loaf cakes highlight Concord grapes in a brown sugar-thyme topping. Serve cakes slightly warm, topped with billows of whipped cream. ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar ½ cup (113 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter, softened and divided 1 cup (150 grams) Concord grapes* ½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves ¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar 2 large eggs (100 grams), room temperature 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams) baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1/16 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¾ cup (180 grams) low-fat buttermilk, room temperature Whipped cream, to serve Garnish: fresh thyme sprigs 1. Preheat oven to…

CHEDDAR SAGE DUTCH OVEN BREAD Makes 1 loaf Half a pound of white Cheddar and sage pump up the savory, herbaceous volume in our Classic Dutch Oven Bread formula. 1 (8-ounce) block (226 grams) extra-sharp aged white Cheddar cheese* 1 teaspoon (2 grams) rubbed sage Classic Dutch Oven Bread (recipe on page 45) 1. Divide block of Cheddar into 2 (113-gram) pieces. Cut one half into ½-inch cubes, and finely grate other half. In a small bowl, stir together grated cheese and sage. 2. In step 3 of Classic Dutch Oven Bread recipe, after you turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, dust dough lightly with flour, and roll to 1-inch thickness. Sprinkle roughly two-thirds of cubed cheese and grated cheese-sage mixture onto dough. Starting on left side and…

TOOLS: You’ll need an exquisitely sharp blade, like a knife, razor blade, or lame (pronounced lahm). We prefer the lame because you can replace the disposable blade as it dulls, and the handle gives you the best ease of movement and feels like an artist’s stylus. METHOD: Mom always told you, “Confidence is key,” and she was right (again). Decisive, shallow (¼ to ½ inch deep) strokes with the blade ensure that the slits in the dough don’t appear jagged or irregular. Hesitate while slicing, and the dough will cling to the blade and begin to tear into an uneven gash. DESIGN: The beauty of no-knead Dutch oven bread is its simplicity. But an expertly scored loaf offers home bakers a chance to add their unique signature. It’s that final…

1946  Dave returns from service in World War II and produces his first line of specialty Scandinavian kitchenware products with wife Dotty. 1950 Dave makes the first prototype for the Bundt pan after local Jewish women approach him to modernize the kugelhopf cake pan. 1966  The Tunnel of Fudge cake, made with a Bundt, places second in the Pillsbury Bake-Off, and Bundt mania ensues. The Bundt pan becomes America’s number one selling cake pan. 1964 Nordic Ware pioneers first nonstick coatings for cookware and bakeware. 1981 Dave and Dotty’s son, David Dalquist, becomes CEO. The company releases the Micro-Go-Round, the first microwave oven turntable. 1990S Nordic Ware begins introducing new Bundt pan designs and shapes, including wreaths and roses, and even a replica of Hansel and Gretel's cottage. 2005 Dave…

PUMPKIN SPICE GOOEY BUTTER CAKE Makes about 12 servings Inspired by the gooey butter cake of St. Louis, Missouri, this spiced cake has two textured layers: a chewy brown sugar base and a filling so rich with butter, eggs, and pumpkin purée that the middle sinks down into a creamy, custardy valley. ¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar ½ cup (113 grams) plus 6 tablespoons (84 grams) unsalted butter, melted and divided 5 large eggs (250 grams), divided 1½ cups (188 grams) all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese, softened 1 (15-ounce) can (425 grams) pumpkin 3 tablespoons (45 grams) spiced black rum 3¾ cups (450 grams) confectioners’…

Making caramel takes few ingredients and little time, but it can intimidate even the most proficient of bakers. Common pitfalls are grittiness from sugar crystallization, scorching splash backs when adding the cream, and the blighted burnt caramel. But no more. Follow our step-by-step visuals and tips to get the sticky homemade caramel of your dreams. Step 1: Once your ingredients and tools are in place, add water and sugar to a scrupulously clean, light-colored (to gauge the color of the sugar as it cooks), heavy-bottomed saucepan. Stir together until it looks like wet sand. Using a pastry brush, coat the edges of the pan with water to keep sugar crystals from forming and making your caramel gritty. Step 2: Turn your burner on to high. Stir mixture occassionally, until sugar…