Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2016 - January 2017 i Wanderlust

The perennial question we get asked is how we don’t run out of places to feature. The answer is simple: as new flights bring more destinations on to our radar, others (sometimes unfairly) drop out of favour because of strife or disputes. Sometimes places best known for their fly ’n’ flop packages have a range of adventurous options beyond their sands, while others are just overlooked in favour of better-known neighbours. Hence, for our annual hot list (p52), we had fun seeking out ideas for destinations that fall into the above categories – we hope it gives you some inspiration. Meanwhile, new direct flights to Chile have us itching to explore this incredibly diverse country (p26), and we take the roads less travelled in Goa (p40) and South Africa (p82).…

FANTASTIC BEASTS Masai Mara, Tanzania Photographer: Anup Shah The dry season is often said to be the best time to visit the Masai Mara, as its population has to linger closer to water sources, guaranteeing better viewings. These elephants were captured on camera en route to the feeding grounds of Musiara Marsh when the click of photographer Anup Shah’s camera – often hidden in mud and dung and fired remotely for that spectacular perspective – drew the bull’s haughty gaze. It’s a potent reminder of the patience and timing required to see these wonderful – and endangered – creatures in their element. The Mara (Natural History Museum, London; £25) by Anup Shah is out now. © Anup Shah SEAL OF APPROVAL Lundy Island, UK Photographer: Alex Mustard/naturepl.com The island of…

YES Gemma Tizzard Wanderlust reader “As someone who flies with BA, the loss of free snacks isn’t the end of the world. But it feels like the difference between premium and low-budget airlines is shrinking. Benefits such as rewards programmes and knowing everything is covered under one booking price (without add-ons) means I will continue to fly with BA, but it may make me shop around more in the future.” NO Kayleigh Johnstone Wanderlust reader “Flying is no longer a luxury, it’s a means to an end. And there just aren’t enough perks to make me go premium on a short-haul service, regardless of snacks. As for long haul: unless you’re forking out for the best of the best, premium isn’t all that fabulous – I’d rather spend money on…

Cruise convert Kellie shares her first experience venturing into Antarctica Why go on an adventure cruise? It was a decision inspired by a travel magazine article that had featured expedition travel to Antarctica. I’d never been interested in traditional cruising – I prefer an adventure. But the chance to explore this remote region on a small ship with like-minded travellers offered just that. How did you cope with sharing a cabin? I’m usually a solo traveller and I like my space, but not only did I enjoy spending time with someone just as excited about being in Antarctica as I was, there was so much to see and do that I only used the cabin to sleep and shower. Did you have any hygiene concerns? My main concern was not…

‘One study in Bangladesh showed that even the layers of old folded nylon saris effectively removed cholera from polluted water’ When Dr John Snow removed the handle from the Broad Street water pump in Soho in 1854, he was hailed as the saviour of London because it appeared at the time that his actions had stemmed a deadly outbreak of cholera in the city. The well had become contaminated by a cess pit and the innumerable people taking water from it increased both the spread of the disease and the number of deaths. Fortunately, things have changed since Dr Snow’s days, and it is now recognised by public health researchers that true water-borne outbreaks of gastrointestinal disease are very rare, even in low-income countries. Furthermore, if an ordinary traveller in…

Unpacking my rucksack after a backpacking adventure in Serbia. Despite its turbulent past, I had a fantastic time trekking the Balkan nation. It was brilliant. LucasV Lapping up an evening with the planet’s best tour guides. The World Guide Awards was a brilliant event and gave a great insight into the industry! @WanderingWalder Exploring Scotland’s slate islands of Seil, Easdale, Luing and Belnahua. DavidRoss Excited at the prospect of rubbing shoulders with sloths. I’m going to Costa Rica next year. I can’t wait to see them! Judi Lambeth Following in the footsteps of many legions of legendary past explorers. I’m off to Jordan in November and very much looking forward to it! @GAdv_JeremyB Witnessing travellers asking silly questions. On a trip to Yala NP in Sri Lanka, a co-traveller demanded…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Vientiane Population: 6.8 million Language: Lao Time: GMT+7 International dialling code: +856 Visas: Required by UK nationals; available from the Laos embassy/consulate, or upon landing at international airports (Vientiane, Luang Prabang, Pakse) and border crossings open to foreign nationals between Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. Visas cost US$35; valid for up to 30 days Money: Lao kip (LAK), currently around LAK10,336 to the UK£. ATMs and bureau de change are available in most big towns.US dollars are accepted everywhere When to go High season – plenty of sunshine; the average temps between Mar-Jun can reach the high 30s (ºC). River travel is best Nov-Jan. Kayaking the Xe Bang Fai River is advisable in this season. Rainy season: The rains arrive, but downpours are usually short and sharp. Best…

1 The remains of Saint Francis Xavier are paraded through Old Goa’s streets once every ten years; p40 2 The San people were the exclusive occupiers of southern Africa for 100,000 years until their extinction in the mid-1800s; p82 3 More than 3,000 Vietnamese Communists were thought to have›sheltered in Laos’ Nok Aen cave›during the Vietnam War; p100 4 La Palma was the world’s first UNESCO Starlight Reserve thanks to its pitch-black skies; p131 5 Concorde could be making a›comeback in our skies after a›group of enthusiasts refitted an old plane to use for charter flights; p69…

‘Cleaning up the trash that is already there is only half the problem’ Imagine for a minute that, after months of anticipating your trip to a suitably wild destination, you arrive and instead of being met by pristine sands, unspoiled swathes of lush forest or rocky ridges of mountainous hinterland, one thing greets you. Rubbish – and lots of it. It’s enough to make you weep. Enter Trash Hero, a community-based project that began life in 2013 when a quartet of friends started picking up rubbish from the beaches of Tarutao National Marine Park in Thailand. Since then, it has transformed into a global movement of weekly cleanups in countries as diverse as Indonesia, Burma (Myanmar), the USA and the Czech Republic. Its efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. In 2015, Trash…

EXPERIENCE JORDAN London, 1 Dec tinyurl.com/experiencejordan Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. 6pm. £10. Visit the website to book. Join Wanderlust, G Adventures and Visit Jordan for an evening celebrating the country. Hear from travel bloggers Daniel Noll and Audrey Scott and get the opportunity to vist the Petra Collection in the RGS archives. Profits from ticket sales support G Adventures’ charity Planeterra. GLOBETROTTERS CLUB London, 3 Dec www.globetrotters.co.uk The Church of Scotland, Crown Court, Covent Garden, WC2B 5EZ. Doors open at 2.15pm. £6; £3 for members. Call 020 7193 2586 to book. Richard Evans recalls his mammoth six-month pedal across the planet by recumbent bicycle. BRISTOL WILDERNESS LECTURE Bristol, 14 Dec www.wildernesslectures.com Chemistry Theatre, Bristol University. 7.30pm. £9.50; £9 (advance). Visit the website to book. Join Wanderlust’s…

Take in picturesque Patagonia on the W trek, Chile By Nick Giles British Airways’ new direct route is not the only recent flight development in Chile. After many years of work at Puerto Natales, the airport is now complete. This cuts out two hours of transfer time across the Patagonia Steppe to Torres del Paine, making now an even greater time to visit. With views out across azure-blue lakes , countless glaciers and ancient woodland – the W trek is the perfect way to take in Patagonia in all its glory. Reach new heights in the Cocora Valley, Colombia By Holly Kennedy This moderately difficult trek is a great introduction to the stunning scenery of Colombia’s coffee growing region. Starting off in riverside pasture, you share the route with local…

VITAL STATISTICS State capital: Panaji (aka Panjim) State population: 1.458 million Language: Konkani, Portuguese. English, Hindi and Marathi are widely understood Time: GMT+5.5 International dialling code: +91 Visas: UK nationals can apply online for an e-tourist visa (eTV) at indianvisaonline.gov.in. A single-entry visa costs US$60 (about £46) and is valid for up to 30 days. Money: Indian rupee (INR), currently around INR87 to the UK£. Major credit cards are widely accepted. When to go High season – clear skies and sunshine, warm and dry. Monsoon – torrential showers, peaking in July and August. Few Europeans, but popular with Indian tourists. Shoulder – hot and sticky, with pre-monsoon temperatures rising towards 40ºC and high humidity. Health & safety Make sure you are vaccinated against diphtheria, polio, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A.…

Tom Harari, product manager at adventure tour operator Exodus, shares his tips on South Africa’s best national parks, its cultures and how to experience it by rail... BEST PARKS: South Africa’s blessed with a variety of landscapes and ecosystems. After Africa’s highest diversity of wildlife? Go to Kruger. After dramatic coastlines where whales frolic? Visit the Garden Route. After some trekking in majestic surroundings? Try the Drakensberg. BEST TIME TO GO: South Africa is a year-round destination but it’s worth noting that southern right whales spend the period from August to November just off the coast of Hermanus making it the world’s top land-based whale watching region. There are also various events such as the Cape Argus Cycle Race every year in March. BEST CULTURE: Zulus, Xhosa, Afrikaans, Cape Coloured……

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Bloemfontein, Cape Town, Pretoria Population: 54.8 million Language: Afrikaans, English, Xhosa and Zulu are among 11 official languages Time: GMT+2 International dialling code: +27 Visas: Not required by UK nationals. If you are travelling with children, you will be required to show their full birth certificates. If travelling or transiting from a country with risk of yellow fever, you will need a certificate of vaccination Money: South African rand (ZAR), currently around ZAR17.50 to the UK£. Credit cards are widely accepted When to go Summer & autumn – temps peak in the low 20s (ºC) in Cape Town between Dec-Feb, the busiest (and windiest) period. Late Jan-to-April is less crowded. Winter – most rain occurs between Jun-July, while August can be cold at night. The Northern Cape,…

A familiar face Seeing the face of Mr Limachi (pictured) smiling out from behind his reed boats in Wanderlust’s Lake Titicaca feature [July/August 2016, issue›168] brought back some very happy memories for me. The Limachi family once built the Ra›II boat for legendary Norwegian explorer Thor Heyerdahl (famed for his 1947 Kon-Tiki expedition). Mr Limachi also helped set up an exhibition of the boat in Oslo and is very fond of Norwegians, as I discovered when I met him and his nephew in 2008. I even have two of his exquisitely built models. Ingrid Staver Cooke, Isle of Wight STAR LETTER Hiking thrills The article ‘25 best historical hikes’ [September 2016, issue 169] was an exciting read for an ardent hiker such as myself. I have long wanted to do…

SIMON KING Naturalist and TV presenter With an insatiable appetite for wildlife-watching, Simon King has become TV’s go-to expert ‘in the field’. He has been a co-presenter on both Springwatch and Big Cat Diary, and this issue he shares his tips with us on identifying and tracking animal prints in the UK, from water voles to wildcats – see p69 Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Desert. First great travel experience? I’ve got two. The first was exploring Blaise Woods in Bristol as a kid, and the other was when I returned to Kenya in 1986 after an absence of 20 years. Favourite journey? Travelling from Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands to South Georgia in the South Atlantic on the Abel-J ship. Top five places worldwide? Scotland;…

1 Nature, Marine & Heritage Winner: Mai Khao Marine Turtle Foundation – This Phuket-based foundation provides turtles with a safe place to hatch and develop before being released into the ocean. The judges were impressed by its efforts to educate visitors as well as local schoolchildren. Runner-up: Trash Hero (see left) 2 Community-based tourism Winner: Andaman Discoveries – This tour operator works hand-in-hand with villagers, who help plan its itineraries and receive a source of income in return. A particular highlight for judges was the way that locals were encouraged to continue traditional ways of life. Runner-up: The Sarojin, a boutique beach hotel with an eco edge. 3 Animal welfare Winner: Elephant Hills – Based in Khao Sok NP, Elephant Hills’ luxury tented camps lead the way in a raft…

Palestine is a region most travellers only ever get to experience through news reports. Its decades-long conflict with neighbouring Israel means visits there are restricted. Yet beyond politics and territorial squabbles survives a rich, ancient culture – with a cuisine to match. Cooking forms an important part of Palestinian identity, with recipes passed down through generations. Every territory even has its own speciality. In Galilee (once part of ancient Palestine), rice-based dishes and kibbeh (a meat and bulgur wheat patty) are favoured, while West Bank Palestinians have a taste for taboon (flatbread), as well as the usual rice and meat staples. And thanks to Gaza’s proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, seafood and chillies are common ingredients. For travellers, Palestinian food is a taste of somewhere unseen. Yet for the region’s…

As Christmas approaches with its heavy satchel of tomes to gild our festive bookshelf, top of the pile is Border (Schilt Publishing, £27.50), a part-travelogue, part-art-project, which sees Maria Gruzdeva journey along the often desolate Russian national border – the longest on the planet – to create an incredible portrait of a land and its people. Magsie Hamilton Little is on a big journey of her own through central Saharan Africa, setting out from Southern Algeria in the company of two nomads and a poorly camel. Stumbling upon terrorists and refugees along the way, The Sky is on Fire (Max Books, £9) is a fascinating insight into Islamic North Africa and a land that rarely has a light shone on it. Around 700 years before Magsie, Ibn Battutah was doing…

Time is getting short if you want to beat the deadline – 30 November – for the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2016. This is the final call to get your entry in, so it’s the last chance to flick through your camera’s memory cards. If you think you’ve captured a great travel moment, take a chance and enter it into the UK’s biggest travel photography competition – you might just be surprised! The winners of the four Amateur categories will find themselves on the photo commission of your dreams: a trip to Thailand, courtesy of the Tourism Authority of Thailand. Meanwhile, a tasty £3,000 is up for grabs to the winner of our Portfolio contest. So, what are you waiting for? Send in your snaps! Win a commission…

Water vole Look for four toes on the forefoot, five on the hind. The hind footprint also often slightly overlaps the heel of the forefoot and is marginally larger (27mm wide compared to 25mm). Expect a star-shaped print with the outer toes often diametrically opposed. Mountain hare The forefeet have five toes, but the inner toe barely registers. They measure about 4.5cm by 3cm, but may appear broader in snow. The hind footprint has four toes, all forward-facing and often with claw marks; this varies in length depending on the ground. Red deer stag Red deer prints look fatter and generally more oval-shaped and rounded than other deer species likely to be found in Britain or Europe. The large size of this print – about 7cm long – sets it…

Early on in my career, in the winter of 1984, we were travelling to Tibet en route to›the north-east ridge of›Mount Everest as part of the›first Western expedition that was allowed into the region. Virtually all of the Tibetans on the plateau acted as if they had never seen a camera before, and it’s more than likely that they hadn’t. Westerners hadn’t been in this part of Tibet since the Cultural Revolution. This photograph of a young woman was among the first cultural portraits that I took, shot out of the window of our vehicle using a 70-200mm Nikkor lens. But what really struck me about the image was both the naivety and fearlessness of the woman’s expression, belied by the fact that there was a pretty strong possibility that…

CRAGHOPPERS Gracefield/Fermont £30 www.craghoppers.com The test: Though the design may look more ‘fashion’ than technical – given the grandfather-style button fastening – it hides some wizardry. Made from a Thermal Control fabric, it contains fibres to distribute warmth and help your body regulate its temperature. It certainly feels one of the warmest when putting it on, and is a tighter fit than others. The sleeve length is decent, while the seams are flatlocked but do not sit flat, so you are more aware of them. The focus with this top is less on wicking and venting and more on keeping your temperature right, which explains the heavier weight – at 176g (UK size 10) it’s the fifth heaviest on test. Verdict: A great option if you’re headed somewhere cold and…

The trail began just outside of Squamish, on the west coast of Canada. After driving up a rough, rubble-strewn road that knocked the underside of the car like a hammer on tin, we parked near the trailhead, hefted our rucksacks onto our shoulders and started up the path, panting with the initial effort. The trail to Elfin Lakes in Garibaldi Provincial Park was an easy one to follow. It did, however, take a while for our lungs – more familiar with sea-level air – to adjust to the higher altitude. Leaning into the hill, our hiking boots creaking, it was already scorchingly hot by mid-morning, the temperature unexpectedly having soared on what would turn out to be the warmest weekend of that summer, but on we trod. Clumped masses of…

Greenland Wanderlust forum user Emma Halford recollects two weeks on The Arctic Circle Trail The highlight: The peace and solitude of being somewhere wild and beautiful with no shops, advertising, TV or cars. Must see: Reindeer, musk-oxen, great northern divers, stunning views, the aurora, shooting stars – keep your eyes peeled. Top tip: Plan carefully – especially when it comes to the weight of your backpack. Cautionary tale: The trail is rapidly gaining in popularity – and litter. Be sure to take with you any toilet paper, wipes and food packaging that you use. I wish I’d known... It would take me a few days to stop doubting myself and relax. Leave all your mental rubbish at your chosen starting point and appreciate this amazing place for what it is.…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Darwin Population: 244,300 Language(s): English, plus Arrernte. Warlpiri in Alice Springs; Yankunytjatjara and Pitjantjatjara in the Red Centre; Gundjeihmi, Kunwinjku and Jawoyn in Kakadu; and other indigenous languages Time: GMT+11 (GMT+10 Apr–Oct) International dialling code: +61 Visas: Required by UK nationals. Valid for up to three months, a free eVisitor visa can be obtained online at border.gov.au Money: Australian dollar (A$), currently around A$1.59 to the UK£. ATMs are scarce in Kakadu and Arnhem Land When to go Dry season – warm, dry and sunny at the Top End (25–30ºC). It is much cooler in central Australia (Red Centre, Uluru, Alice Springs), with temperatures below 0ºC in winter (Jun–Aug), although it warms up in spring (Sep–Nov). Wet season – cyclones are common at the Top End during…