Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2019 i Wallpaper

JONATHAN ANDERSON Fashion designer The Northern Irish golden boy of fashion is on a roll, both with his ‘unpredictable’ eponymous label and as Loewe’s creative director. For our Subscribers Since… 1996 shoot (page 154), we peeped inside his Paris office to record his Wallpaper* collection. The designer, who recently collaborated with artists Gilbert & George on a JW Anderson capsule collection, will soon be busy preparing for the April opening of a new Loewe flagship store in London. EVA HAGBERG FISHER Writer Seventeen years after their last conversation, the Brooklyn-based writer Hagberg Fisher was pleased to catch up with architect Liz Diller, co-founder of New York practice Diller Scofidio + Renfro. The pair talked everything from correspondence theory to nylon and Prada, for whom Diller has created a pair of…

Folded metal is having its moment in the sun. Designers Kim Colin and Sam Hecht, founders of Industrial Facility, have collaborated with new brand Fucina on a furniture collection featuring thin, flat panels arranged in graphic compositions. Applying the technique to smaller objects, Swiss designer Laetitia de Allegri used discreet folded elements throughout her ‘Secant’ collection of containers for London’s Ace Hotel, while Josep Vila Capdevila’s ‘Trapped’ mirror for Aparentment serves both as a decorative and a functional object. Originally designed for an exhibition exploring joints, Leon Ransmeier’s chair offers a softer approach to the fold, with multiple curves intersecting to create the sleek seat, combining aluminium and carbon fibre in its composition. It’s a design device that delivers clean lines and maximum impact.…

Friends for more than three decades, Annabelle Harty and Sheelagh Boyce recently joined forces on a creative project inspired by their mutual love for art and architecture. Last year, the pair launched Arrange Whatever Pieces Come Your Way to make handcrafted quilts that reference architecture by Le Corbusier and Carlo Scarpa, scenic vistas and more conceptual images, using materials they gather from family and friends. For their two latest quilts, the duo referenced a staircase in a house in Italy designed by architects Act Romegialli, made using old Comme des Garçons and Brooks Brothers shirts previously owned by artist Martin Boyce and chef Fergus Henderson; and Oscar Niemeyer’s Communist Party HQ in Paris recreated using clothes from Issey Miyake’s Plantation collection, belonging to Harty’s mother. So why not take a…

Layering scent is not new, but a new push to put customisation in the hands of the consumer is taking hold. British brand Thomas Clipper has developed a trio of scents, called City, Coast and Country, designed to mix according to mood and location, while US brand DS & Durga has developed a fragrance enhancer called I Don’t Know What, which has the ability to re-animate any other scent in your repertoire. The London-based Experimental Perfume Club has produced Layers, a blending collection comprising three scents that can be used to mix a unique smell in a fourth empty bottle. Meanwhile, the newest line to emerge from Sweden, NCP Olfactives, a collaborative effort between actress Noomi Rapace, hairdresser Steve Terry, record producer Ash Pournouri, perfumer Yann Vasnier and businessman Jonas…

Stanisław Stupkiewicz is a proud Pole who wants to ensure the international profile of his homeland’s dumpling, the pierogi, is not only high, but high class. For his graduation project at Warsaw’s Academy of Fine Arts, he has designed a refined 12-piece set, ‘Instrumentarium’, for putting together perfect pierogi. ‘Creating uniquely purposed tools encourages us to not only appreciate the final effect, but also celebrate the process of making pierogi,’ says Stupkiewicz. The dumpling is celebrated worldwide in festivals (such as the Pittsburgh Pierogi Festival) and specialist restaurants (London’s The Pantry by Pierogi Company), which often showcase creative, cross-cultural fillings. There’s nothing to say you can’t whip up a wonton or make manti with it – just maybe don’t let on.…

Tailoring took over the S/S19 womenswear catwalks: there were oversized blazers with wide-peaked lapels at Louis Vuitton, slouchy wool suits at Boss, and turned-up trousers paired with lean matching jackets in saturated shades at Gucci. Suiting was also used as a vehicle for unisex dressing. At Givenchy, Clare Waight Keller’s sleek women’s tailoring looked to the gendersubverting personal style of Swiss writer and photographer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, while at Celine, Hedi Slimane debuted whipthin men’s suits, also available for women. Tailored jackets for women are strong sellers at Matchesfashion. And its buying director Natalie Kingham has noted an increase in blazer sales season-on-season, in both traditional and more extravagant styles. But it wasn’t only on the women’s catwalks that female suiting took a turn in the spotlight. For spring, men’s tailoring…

Ours is an age where fashion collections are admired and double-tapped on Instagram more widely than they are worn. Of course, if you’re as canny a designer as Kim Jones is, you can do good things with ’grammability. Jones spent seven years at Louis Vuitton ushering in a smart, sports-luxe approach – his influence can be seen in every tailored trackpant, every bum bag slung diagonally across the chest. But now, as menswear artistic director at Dior, he’s taking a new tack, learning to apply the majesty of couture to the masculine wardrobe. At Dior, Jones is schooling Gen Z on the art of craft. He has drawn inspiration from archive pieces dating back to the 1950s and the couture techniques of the 70-year-old house are at the forefront of…

Fruit and vegetables are good for us. We all know that. But what if our clothes counted towards our five a day? Would that make the planet healthier, too? We are told the one thing we can do to reduce our carbon emissions is to eat less beef, so the next step would be to wear less leather. We also know that cotton production is water-intensive and polluting. So the next generation of textiles made from apple peel, grape pulp, oranges and pineapples is here not a moment too soon. Never mind eat more greens. What we really need is to wear them. First, though, designers need to know where to find these healthy new fibres and, in January, the Future Fabrics Expo in London showcased the best of them.…

As second-act professional re-routings go, Adam Kimmel’s is an attention grabber. In the late noughties, the native New Yorker was the next big thing in men’s fashion. Kimmel’s designs reimagined and outfitted his kind of American hero, from cowboys to SoHo bohemians, Jackson Pollock to Snoop Dogg. He also helped revolutionise the way fashion brands communicated what they did and who they were. Circumnavigating the conventional catwalk show, he used film – a tuxedoed David Blaine swimming in a tank of sharks – and theatre, including a casino full of models wearing oversized masks designed by George Condo. His now much-sought-after lookbooks were born of loose drop-in sessions and his clothes were modelled by everyone from hotshot young photographer Ryan McGinley to LA art eminence John Baldessari and actor/artist/photographer and…

Brigitte Niedermair is known for portraits juxtaposing female models with the heads of farm animals found in local butchers’ shops, or for arranging fashion-clad legs and hips to correspond to the curve of carrots found in her vegetable patch, or for counterpointing a couture bodice with a still-living clam. Working with a 4x5 large-format camera, she will spend hours constructing her images before capturing each tableau with just a handful of shots. Niedermair, then, is a unique proposition among makers of contemporary fashion imagery. And perhaps uniquely ambitious. Ahead of a show at the Venice Biennale, covering 22 years of her work, Wallpaper* spoke to the photographer at her home in the Italian Alpine town of Merano. ‘I don’t want cool, I don’t want funny,’ she says. ‘I want to…

For stockists, see page 216…

Like the man himself, Takashi Murakami’s favourite food is a national treasure. ‘Sushi is a symbol of Japanese culture, and can now be enjoyed anywhere in the world,’ he says. Contrary to his outré aesthetic, his favourite variety, tuna nigiri, is as orthodox as it comes. The artist’s opinion on flowers, a recurring motif in his artwork, is more ambivalent. ‘Their smell, their shape – it makes me feel almost physically sick, and at the same time I find them very “cute”,’ he says. For Murakami’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com For stockists, see page 216…

The fashion for aromatising your own alcohol can be credited to two prevailing trends. The one that wants none of your fake flavours, chemical contaminations or superfluous sweetenings, and therefore insists all enhancement processes be done in the home; and the one that has us imbuing drinks with the flavour heft of a five-course meal. To accommodate the trend, the domestic design arena is gaining a new product. Kicked off by Martin Kastner of Crucial Design, who designed his ‘Porthole’ vessel for Chicago’s The Aviary bar, alcohol infusers are proliferating, including the ‘Alkemista’ by Californian brand Ethan + Ashe and the spinning ‘Incanter’ carafe by Sempli. Whether it’s to macerate some moringa or permeate your pickme-up with parmesan or meadow hay, we now have increasingly stylish ways to transform our…

Leave it to Nendo to revolutionise the childhood joy of gluing. Why have a round glue stick when you can have a square one with a tip that glides seamlessly into corners. The designer’s new range of glue products, designed for Japanese stationer Kokuyo, addresses all manner of adhesive conundrums, from wandering cap to single hand use. There’s a roller tape glue with sliding lid and additional dotting mechanism and a colour fading technique that serves as an alert for users of the strong stuff – keep fingers clear until the bright red colour has gone. Forget children, this is a joy for all. We’ve seen it as an excuse to review our grown-up craft box, designed for moments when we down our everyday tools and pick up the fun…

The strength of celebrated Italian designer Achille Castiglioni, who died in 2002, lay in his unique ability to combine simplicity with irony. His functional pieces often took utilitarian elements and refashioned them into works that combine style and substance, the ‘Albero’ plant holder being a perfect example. Created in 1983, its tubular metal stands fan out like the branches of a tree, plant pots balanced at its tips creating a vertical composition of greenery. Relaunched by Zanotta in four colours (white, black, amaranth and green), the arms can be rotated into different settings and fully disassembled. zanotta.it PUMP UP THE BASE This new wood pizza oven, designed by Broberg and Ridderstråle for Röshults, has got us all fired up. Made from stainless steel and teak with built-in storage, plus the…

Fashion’s current liking for hands-free accessories seems largely to be of a sporty sensibility, but for those in search of both practicality and panache, spring comes with a sense of gentlemanly ease. At Burberry, Riccardo Tisci’s catwalk debut featured an umbrella with a chain strap, allowing sensible dressers to bolster it across the body. Spanish accessory designer Álvaro González had more sun-kissed adventures in mind. In a bid to stop people from accidentally leaving their shades behind on a sun lounger, his single-strap leather pouch is roomy enough to accommodate sunglasses, credit cards and keys. Luxuriously honed, hands-free versatility, come rain or shine. burberry.com; alvaro.ag…

In 2013, Beirut’s haute couture king Elie Saab (W*198) launched a fashion programme at the Lebanese American University in collaboration with the London College of Fashion. The move created such interest that when the university’s second intake showed their impressively experimental graduate collections last June, four million people tuned in online to watch. It’s just one example of a new creative energy in the city’s fashion scene. Previously best known for fanciful and dazzling haute couture, Beirut is seeing a more innovative and accessible take on fashion design gather steam. Here are three Beiruti designers leading the charge, at home and abroad, with standout ready-to-wear. RACIL CHALHOUB RACIL Beirut-born Racil Chalhoub relocated to Paris in her early childhood, but travelled back to her birth city annually for family holidays and…

4,061 Size in square metres of Chanel’s beach set, including one tiki hut and two lifeguard chairs 15 Wrought-iron gates at the JW Anderson show, leading guests up the garden path 600 Green and black exercise balls used as seating at the Marni men’s show, inspiring buttclenching exercises among guests 400 Plastic keyrings dangling from Marine Serre’s opera coat, a detail for front-rowers to lock onto 10,060 Pom-poms on the floor of Loewe’s men’s show, which took six people 360 hours to create 10 Models on wheels – seven skateboarders and three scooter riders – at the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood show 3 Female Olympic medallists walking the Off-White women’s catwalk, alongside high jumpers, sprinters and javelin throwers 1,500 Pieces of protective gear, from goggles to masks, handed out…

Artist Magdalene Odundo is standing in her studio in Surrey, alongside architect Farshid Moussavi and Hepworth Wakefield chief curator Andrew Bonacina. In front of them lie images of Henry Moore sculptures, alabaster jars from Ancient Egypt, a 19th-century Ghanaian ritual doll and a Cycladic figure dating back to 2700 BC. The trio are discussing how these wide-ranging historical, cultural and technical references have influenced Odundo and, more pressingly, how to process this ahead of the biggest ever display of her work. On 16 February, ‘The Journey of Things’ will open at Hepworth Wakefield, pitching over 50 of Odundo’s sculptures alongside a panoply of contextual items from art, archaeology and fashion. The show aims to shed light on Odundo’s unique practice. It’s a retrospective in name, but in reality is a…

‘I’m here by choice, not by obligation,’ Jony Ive tells me as we trek through the dense, mysterious forests of Yakushima in southern Japan. Me too! My 12,000-mile round-trip from London to this remote island was arduous, but worth it. It’s not often you get to spend time in such a magical environment in the company of Apple’s chief design officer and Hermès’ artistic director, Pierre-Alexis Dumas. Extraordinary products created by extraordinary partnerships should lead to extraordinary experiences, and the purpose of this two-day sojourn was to better understand some qualities of the new Apple Watch Hermès Series 4. It may seem odd that a company renowned for accelerating digital connectivity would take you to an area that is almost totally off-grid, but finding time to unplug and connect in…

Customisation is key this season, and Issey Miyake has put a unique twist on the trend with a womenswear collection, the shape of which can be moulded at will. The collection, which includes undulating dresses and sculptural sun hats, is formed from ‘Dough Dough’ fabric, conceived by creative director Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who was inspired by the process of kneading bread. We’ll be getting into shape this spring, twisting and crumpling these pieces into a range of new silhouettes. isseymiyake.com FOR STOCKISTS THROUGHOUT, SEE PAGE 216…

Bottega Veneta’s new creative director Daniel Lee has been thinking big. The former director of ready-to-wear design at Celine, under Phoebe Philo, has designed two bags for the Italian brand, and our favourite comes in XL proportions. Lee drew from Bottega Veneta’s renowned skill for intrecciato technique, which sees strips of leather woven into accessories, like its signature ‘Cabat’ tote. It takes two days by hand to entwine the leather into this hyperbolic take on the style, proof that time does indeed work wonders. bottegaveneta.com…

Opulent wedding rings have long been the bride’s preserve, but jewellery designers are now responding to singular requests from men. Georgina Boyce’s black rhodium ring is one such offering. ‘Traditional black rhodium tends to lose depth of colour quite quickly and I wanted it to last, so I experimented using a resin bake, which essentially locks the rhodium in,’ she says. The result is a glossy black, lacquer-like finish. Minimalist French brand Le Gramme has toyed with guilloché finishes and hidden-diamond formations to create an elegantly rich alternative to the classic gold band, while Malcolm Betts finds that male clients are ‘increasingly keen to mix metals, experiment with textures, and sometimes add diamonds, too’.…

After seasons of streetwear shapes, the men’s spring catwalks signalled a shift towards more elegant silhouettes. Overcoats and suits are returning to tailoring, with Stella McCartney and Ermenegildo Zegna offering sophisticated takes in check, but Loro Piana took things a step further, providing the answer to all our elegance-meets-outdoors needs. There’s a dandyish drama behind the houndstooth finish of this overcoat, one which, thanks to the Italian brand’s weatherproof Rain System technology, can also withstand a downpour. There’s no better way to steal someone’s thunder. loropiana.com…

Mhand-in-hand in the world of Lei Saito. The Parisbased Japanese artist began her career in the studio of Annette Messager, the doyenne of French feminist art, experimenting with different mediums until she found her voice with culinary installations. She has created ‘decapitated’ pastries dressed with raspberry coulis for a Bastille Day party at the Palais de Tokyo; designed an edible landscape of violet and yellow vegetables for a dinner at London’s Matchesfashion; and installed a skating rink filled with clementine juice in Paris’ Galerie de Multiples. ‘Experiencing l’heure bleue – that special twilight moment of the day – is integral to understanding that piece,’ she muses. ‘Being complementary colours, orange and blue cancel out each other and everything becomes transparent.’ She calls her culinary practice Existential Cuisine. ‘I use food…

Larchitect, founding partner of Diller Scofidio + Renfro (DS+R), professor at Princeton University, designer of architecture made out of clouds and honeycomb concrete panels, recent opera producer, all-round MVP of the international architectural scene, and recent fashion designer for Prada, is trying to get her ‘Yoke’ to work. The ‘Yoke’ – as she and Prada are calling one of two pieces DS+R recently prototyped for the fashion company – is a deceptively simple piece: a clutch-shaped bag (Purse? Piece of luggage? The lack of clarity is sort of the point) that can be opened up, its magnetised sections pulled apart to expand the interior space, and placed on the shoulders. It’s like a clutch backpack, or a stole with pockets, or a wallet that happens to stretch across the neck.…

Dune roaming AL FAYA LODGE, SHARJAH Having spent the past three decades wooing big five-star luxury brands to their cities, Emiratis are discovering the joys of ecotourism in their own backyard, the desert. The newest opening is the five-room Al Faya Lodge, at the foot of Mount Alvaah, in the rugged sands of Sharjah. It’s the latest addition to the Sharjah Collection, a group of boutique hotels and eco-retreats located across the Emirate. Eschewing the new-build model that prevails in the region, the eco-lodge has been repurposed from two 1960s buildings by London-and Dubaibased practice Anarchitect, which has also designed the interiors. ‘There are many organic farms and historical tombs in the region,’ says Anarchitect’s British founder and principal, Jonathan Ashmore. ‘Sharjah, and its art biennial, are attracting a new…

For stockists, see page 216…

Nothing says Palm Springs quite like a striking cantilever and a low-rise, linear form in steel, glass and concrete. Used as a backdrop for our shoot, this guardhouse, by Sean Lockyer, of LA architecture practice Studio AR&D, acts as gateway and checkpoint to the Desert Palisades residential development. Sitting on the slopes of a hillside on the fringes of Palm Springs, the Desert Palisades Guardhouse offers long views of the Californian city known for its unique constellation of modernist buildings, a heritage that is celebrated extensively during the annual Palm Springs Modernism Week. Palm Springs Modernism Week runs from 14-24 February 2019. For more information, visit studio-ard.com, modernismweek.com and Wallpaper.com For stockists, see page 216…

A Acne Studios Tel: 46.10 888 73 05 (Sweden) acnestudios.com Alexander McQueen Tel: 44.20 7355 0088 (UK) alexandermcqueen.com Álvaro Tel: 44.20 7935 7388 (UK) alvaro.ag Amara Tel: 44.1376 321100 (UK) amara.com Ami Tel: 33.1 84 17 58 79 (France) amiparis.com Aparentment Tel: 34.937 80 58 73 (Spain) aparentment.com Aram Tel: 44.20 7557 7557 (UK) aram.co.uk Arrange Whatever Pieces Come Your Way Tel: 44.7799 473832 (UK) arrangewhateverpiecescomeyourway.com B B alenciaga Tel: 44.20 3318 6027 (UK) balenciaga.com Bally bally.co.uk Birkenstock Tel: 44.20 7862 1725 (UK) birkenstock.com Boss Tel: 44.20 3885 0593 (UK) hugoboss.com Bolt Threads boltthreads.com Bottega Veneta Tel: 44.20 7629 5598 (UK) bottegaveneta.com Bragard Tel: 44.20 3735 8692 (UK) bragard.com Bresciani Tel: 39.035 877266 (Italy) bresciani.it Brioni Tel: 44.20 3318 6095 (UK) brioni.com Burberry Tel: 44.20 7806 8904 (UK) burberry.com C…