Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2017 i Wallpaper

ANNA ALEK Photographer For her debut fashion shoot for Wallpaper* (page 286), we dispatched Alek to the Richard Meier Model Museum in New Jersey. There, the Ukrainian-born, New York-based photographer found inspiration from Meier’s trademark bent for openness, light and composition. ‘We had to move the lighting for every shot as we moved around the museum trying to capture the perfect moment.’ Up next is a short film, a group show in summer with some friends, and her first book of nude portraits. MARTINO GAMPER Designer London-based Italian designer Gamper’s fascinating collaboration with photographer Brigitte Niedermair for fabric maker Dedar is documented by the pair on page 116. They also teamed up to create our limited-edition subscriber cover; smartphones, the internet and master artists all played a part. Next up…

Fabrizio Viti, shoe director at Louis Vuitton for the last 13 years, launches his own footwear collection this season, bringing a touch of the French fashion house’s futurism to his debut range. ‘That rawness comes from the work I am doing under Nicolas Ghesquière,’ says Viti of his S/S17 showcase, which sports contrasting features, like chunky rubberlook heels and whimsical daisy-chain details. ‘I chose to go in a more feminine direction, inspired by 1960s TV shows and films,’ he adds. ‘I have lots of posters of actresses from that decade in my apartment. That’s why I showed my first collection there. It’s where the mood, the process and the inspiration are.’ Pumps (main picture), £630; cage boots (above), £980, both by Fabrizio Viti, fabrizioviti.com LOST AND FOUND In a bid…

Simplicity, geometry and water come together with rigorous precision in Claesson Koivisto Rune’s Pool and Spa, a new addition to a late-19th century Swedish neoclassical mansion house. Set apart from the main house, the structure is pared back in form but detailed right down to the placement of every patterned tile. CKR’s brief was for a covered pool for winter use and an open air one for summer. The pools are joined by two simple structures, containing a dining space, kitchen and two spas, indoor and outdoor. The buildings have pitched roofs but a bare minimum of surface modelling. CKR has swathed everything with wood decking and laser-cut tiles, using an oversized chevron pattern that both references traditional French parquet and emphasises the forms of the steps and the depth…

Sportswear is having to work as hard as its wearers to catch our attention. High-tech constructions aimed at enhancing comfort and performance are currently top of the agenda. For NYC-based swimwear label Ward Whillas, comfort of the body takes precedence. Its reversible, sculpting silhouettes are created using fabrics made in Italy, which are UV protecting and cooling, and resistant to chlorine and body lotions. London-based optical and beachwear label Prism takes inspiration from the Brooklyn Bridge for S/S17. The light frames and narrow temples of its ‘Brooklyn’ sunglasses are handmade in Italy, and feature graphic cross finishes. Meanwhile, fellow London-based label Laain has developed seamless, fast-drying knitwear, plus leggings that range in density, dependant on the amount of support required by the wearer. wardwhillas.com; prismlondon.com; laain.co.uk Hair: Sarah Jo Palmer.…

Architecture takes time. Good results require patience. The six-year process of building the Houseboat, a new home in Poole, Dorset, was a labour of love for both client, Roger Zogolovitch, and architect, Meredith Bowles. Zogolovitch is no stranger to architectural commissioning. As the ‘Z’ in CZWG, founded in 1975, he helped oversee the regeneration of swathes of post-industrial and post-recession Britain, with buildings that symbolised the era’s economic optimism and eclectic design. Today he runs Solidspace, a developer with an impressive portfolio of small- and mediumscale projects, from dRMM’s award-winning One Centaur Street to a forthcoming apartment block in Bermondsey, London, by AHMM. The Solidspace ethos is one of maximising internal volume, typically through a split-level plan that does away with wasteful circulation space. The Zogolovitch family has had a…

Photographer Brigitte Niedermair and designer Martino Gamper have known each other since childhood. The pair, both regular Wallpaper* collaborators, grew up in Merano, where northern Italy merges into Austria across the Alps. They took different professional routes, yet they each became artisans in creative fields, Niedermair says, mastering their crafts in unique ways. Two years ago, strategist and creative problemsolver Helen Nonini, who had known the pair for some time, decided it was time they collaborated. Nonini – whose experience in brand strategy has included work with Gucci, Gianvito Rossi and Audi – saw an affinity between Gamper, Niedermair and Italian textile brand Dedar, so she suggested a three-way collaboration. The owners of Dedar, Caterina and Raffaele Fabrizio, were looking for a way to celebrate the company’s 40th birthday; Nonini…

A world of oenophile wonders and spirit-raising accoutrements Those who know Listone Giordano will be familiar with the fine wooden floors it has produced for decades, but may not know the company’s long history. It was founded in 1870 by Eugenio Margaritelli, who worked wood on an industrial scale. A century later, his son worked with scientist and engineer Guglielmo Giordano to create a revolutionary floor covering system (the brand was given his name to honour his innovations). Today, Listone Giordano is in the hands of Andrea Margaritelli, the third generation of the family to head the operation, which remains committed to innovation and research. The Margaritellis have another passion and pursuit. In 1946, Eugenio left the company to his three sons, and dedicated himself to establishing the Terre Margaritelli…

Germany’s daring design vision, from a roaring roadster to a Bauhaus-certified lamp No screws. That was the manifesto of Harald Gottschling and Philipp Haffmans, two graduates from the Universität der Künste, when they launched their radical eyewear brand, Ic! Berlin, in 1996. Their first product, ‘Jack’, was a pair of metal-framed sunglasses, constructed without the use of a single screw. Weighing just 20 grammes and looking like a pair of acid-yellow bee’s eyes on a pastry fork, the design caused initial suspicion. Yet ‘Jack’ helped pave the way for Berlin to become the international capital of independent eyewear brands, led by labels such as Mykita, Kuboraum and Lunettes Kollektion. Financially speaking, they may be minor players in the $90bn global eyewear market, but they are undeniably influential. Mykita, based in…

CANADA BRAZIL BELGIUM CHINA SPAIN FRANCE CANADA ‘Nob Hill’ table, large $2,080; small $1,975, both by Yabu Pushelberg, for Avenue Road. ‘Athena’ mirror, C$700, by Concrete Cat. ‘Robusta’ round table, C$9,250, by Brent Comber. ‘LRT09’ pendant, from £1,515, by Lambert & Fils. ‘Bead’ vases, from C$170; ‘Tack’ bench, C$1,200, all by Knauf and Brown. ‘Periscope’ coat rack, price on request, by Zoë Mowat. ‘Trio’ table, price on request, by MSDS, for Muuto. ‘Slab’ pendant, C$2,172, by Lukas Peet, for AndLight. ‘Pillowy’ bench, C$5,200, by Hinterland Design. ‘Chief’ cube stool, $1,800; triangle stool, $2,050, both by Martha Sturdy. Pictured throughout, ‘Bitter Chocolate 1’ matt emulsion, £37 for 5 litres, by Dulux. ‘Spacia Steel’ flooring, £40 per sq m, by Amtico. Mirrored laminate, price on request, by Abet Laminati. ‘Imperio’ pure oak…

Original interior design of Villa Kampffmeyer: Friederike Tebbe of Studio Farbarchiv Hair: Gregor Makris at Bigoudi Make-up: Cynthia Baligan at Nina Klein using MAC Photography assistant: George Eyres Interiors assistants: Mihaela Berbecar, Carlos Hernandez Toimil Fashion assistant: Alisa Vornehm Model: Xavier Buestel at Elite London Casting: Erin Fee…

Hair: Sabrina Szinay at The Wall Group Make-up: Allie Smith at Bridge Artists using Giorgio Armani Beauty Manicure: Jackie Saulsbery at Factory Downtown Production: Amie Norris and Disco Meisch for ACN Photography assistant: Rocio Segura Fashion assistant: Amber Harris Production assistants: Jason Kim and Charles Dente Model: Jay Wright at Next Models Location: Richard Meier Model Museum, New Jersey. The museum is open from 10am to 5pm and appointments can be made through Richard Meier & Partners Architects: m.museum@richardmeier.com…

#81 Crouton omelette Through sculpture, photography and painting, French artist Xavier Veilhan transforms the mundane into something arresting. His 2009 sculpture of steel horses galloping across the cobblestones of Versailles displays not just a firm grasp of history and drama, but also of anatomy and the physics of motion. This sense for the transformative is also evident in the kitchen. His crouton omelette is based on nothing more than day-old bread and yet it is, he says, ‘the most comforting, the kind of dish you prepare on Sunday evenings when there’s nothing left in the fridge’. Nothing except imagination. Xavier Veilhan will represent France at this year’s Venice Biennale. For his recipe, see Wallpaper.com photography: philippe Fragniere interiors: olly Mason Food: MattheW Ford Writer: daven Wu…

u tritionists have been telling us to eat more coloured foods for some time, but now we’re being urged to concentrate on the darker end of the rainbow spectrum. So far, hard scientific proof is in somewhat short supply, but the anthocyanins that give fruit and vegetables their dark red and purple colours are thought to play a role in reducing the danger of everything from heart disease to cancer. Anthocyanins are found in blueberries, goji berries, blackberries and elderberries, purple cabbage, blackcurrants, red wine, aubergine, dark-coloured figs and plums (though not in beetroot). Keen foodies have also been discovering, or rediscovering, the joys of purple carrots, asparagus N and potatoes, not to mention purple rice. You can even buy purple cornflakes, courtesy of American organic outfits like Back to the…

Few British kitchens saw a bottle of olive oil before the 1980s. Food adventuring only really began when international travel started to be accessible to all. Suddenly we learnt there was more to Italy than pizza, and that ravioli didn’t have to come in a can – even that a special grade of flour, 00, would improve our homemade pasta. Then along came the 21st century and we went all local and seasonal. The culinary cognoscenti decided we had to stop this gastronomic gallivanting if we were to be truly authentic and sustainable, and honour our own local heritage. But a third way is emerging. Some of the most interesting chefs today are exploring ways to use local ingredients, while employing the techniques and turns of another country’s cuisine. Isaac McHale,…

Indoor gardening is now as fashionable as baking bread or making your own pasta. Our pot dreams have recently been met by a project by Danish architects COBE, realised in collaboration with Kilo Design. Inspired by the materials and forms of the COBE-designed kindergarten Forfatterhuset, in Copenhagen, the terracotta vessels were conceived to bring the city into the living room. Meanwhile, plant inspiration is moving from the desert to the rainforest; the richly patterned leaves of the calathea and lush tendrils of the Komodo Sumatra hanging vine are currently the favoured tenants for our pots. cobe.dk; kilodesign.dk BORN AGAIN When Australian designer Grant Featherston created his first piece of furniture in 1951 he couldn’t have known it would become a classic that, 66 years later, would be much copied and form…

The new Range Rover Velar is the fourth model in the Range Rover line-up, intended to slot between the Range Rover Sport and the Evoque. It’s a sizeable machine, deliberately pitched at new buyers who want a sleeker, sportier SUV that combines both designer style and off-road chops. ‘This car is “white space” for us,’ says Gerry McGovern, Land Rover’s caustically ebullient chief design officer, as he explains how the Velar taps into the desires of design-savvy customers who still crave a bit of the company’s legendary capability. McGovern brings a bracing blend of oldschool off-the-cuff remarks and decidedly new-school thinking in terms of form, materials, technology and luxury. Over the past decade he has transformed the company’s design studio into a crack team of specialists, broadened Land Rover’s model…

After 45 years of showing modern and contemporary art at their gallery near Union Square, now San Francisco’s hub of fine hotels and high-end retail, John and Gretchen Berggruen considered closing the doors permanently to pursue private sales. Skyrocketing rents in the area had driven out many of their established colleagues and they too were feeling the pressure, too. They could retire and still take credit for building the reputations of Bay Area artists such as Wayne Thiebaud and Richard Diebenkorn. In their small but wealthy community, they had cultivated a dedicated group of collectors. But in February last year, a tantalising opportunity presented itself: a 1908 brick building in the historic district close to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, which was recently expanded by Snøhetta and is…

It’s the biggest bet any modern city has made on the appeal and value of art My taxi streaks along the Corniche, a black curve of velvet tarmac that looks like a giant apostrophe carved in the desert sand. To the left, the Arabian sea shimmers silver. To the right, the golden skyscrapers of the petrodollar plutocrats soar above the minarets of the mosques. Mammon and God jostle for supremacy in the world’s richest oil city. Just past the dhow-lined Port Zayed, the road rises on to Sheikh Khalifa Bridge, which leads to Saadiyat Island, a triangular sandbar off the coast of downtown Abu Dhabi. And that’s when you see it – the most striking new art gallery and the best new building in the Middle East, if not the…

For stockists, see page 296 Hair: Thomas Silverman using Bumble & Bumble Make-up: Danielle Kahlani Set design: Andrea Cellerino at Streeters Interiors: Olly Mason Fashion assistant: Roberta Pinna Model: Sylvester Ulv Henriksen at Nisch Management Retouching: Dtouch London…

AT SIX MAKING A MARK IN BRUNKEBERGSTORG 01. HOBO, AT SIX AND TAK Neighbouring hotels At Six and Hobo offer metropolitan luxury and a hib local vibe respectively, crowned by rooftop restaurant Tak 02. DOWNTOWN CAMPER A new Scandic hotel opening in a 1960s building this autumn 03. KULTURHUSET Peter Celsing’s 1974 cultural centre, now under renovation 04. EPICENTER High-tech co-working space in a former bank 05. ALMA AND AUSTERE Creative-focused co-working space and a concept store This May, Brunkebergstorg, a hulking brutalist square in Stockholm, will host the most bizarre stunt in its history. Norwegian entrepreneur and billionaire Petter Stordalen is going to swing from its rooftops in a locked safe attached to a rope. The rope will be set alight and Stordalen, something of an escapologist, will have…

Prawn cocktail Serves 4 8 tbs mayonnaise 2 tbs tomato ketchup 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce a dash of Tabasco 2 tsp lemon juice 250g (peeled weight) small prawns, cooked 3 Little Gem lettuces 8 large tiger prawns, cooked 1 lemon, quartered lengthways Put the mayonnaise, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and lemon juice in a bowl and whisk well. Add the small prawns and toss well to coat. Reserve 12 small lettuce leaves. Shred the rest of the lettuce and divide between four dishes. Place three whole leaves to one side of each dish and spoon in a quarter of the prawn mixture. Garnish each with two tiger prawns and a lemon quarter, and serve. Espresso martini Makes 1 cocktail 50ml vodka 30ml coffee liqueur 25ml espresso 3 coffee beans Half…

Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on The latest offering from Petit h, the playfully experimental arm of Hermès, is a collection of tables created in conjunction with Californian aluminium masters Neal Feay. At first glance, one wouldn’t think the two companies had much in common. ‘But actually, we have lots,’ says Pascale Mussard, a sixth-generation member of the Hermès family and the brains behind Petit h. ‘A family affair, legacy and innovation, a love for material, and the desire to make simple, beautiful objects with the juxtaposition of each other’s know-how.’ Their signature materials – leather and aluminium – come together strikingly in this collection of tables, formed of two contrasting colours that complement each other perfectly. hermes.com/petith; nealfeay.com…

Hair: Takuya Uchiyama. Make-up: Nicola Moores-Brittin at Coffin Inc using Kiehl’s. Model: Naomi van Kampen at Milk Management There’s renewed verve in catwalk jewellery. Giant diamanté earrings, with all the glisten and gleam of a mirrorball, were the showstoppers this season. Scale is key – the performance aspect of the catwalk requires some theatricality in the jewellery. Lanvin’s over-long strands of diamanté tumbled from the ear like a waterfall, cascading in a fringe, from a bar that reached all the way across the lobe. At Saint Laurent, traditional cuts – round, emerald, baguette – were blown way out of proportion in off-kilter danglers, referencing the glamour of the 1980s. Marni altered the tone with a figurative take: mixed gold and blackened metal gave an antique chandelier effect when clashed with…

With summer just around the corner, it’s time to seek out the accessories that will bring dash to your poolside posturing. We’ve found the deckchair with just the right incline, the towel with the perfect pile, and the outdoor rug that will bring the comfort of indoors to the water’s edge. But most importantly, we have the tipple to top off a swim. The original beer cocktail, the shandy (both refreshing and hydrates without headache), has had the hipster treatment, with the likes of ginger, grapefruit, lemon, root beer, Earl Grey tea and mint being teamed with artisanal beers. Pale ales and lagers go well with citrus flavours, but they can also complement a dark porter ale, while ginger works with a more golden ale. To give an added twist,…

As part of an overhaul of their website, London interior design studio Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler were keen to commission new portraits of their creative team, or ‘decorators’ as they prefer – something that would reflect the rich history of their brand. They found an unusually high-profile collaborator in YBA Mat Collishaw. No stranger to brand collaborations, Collishaw has worked with Jimmy Choo on a digital installation for its London flagship, and created a series of bags and accessories for Dior. SC&JF came knocking just as he was exploring a wet collodion photographic technique developed by scientist William Henry Fox Talbot in the 1830s. To familiarise himself with 19th century practices, Collishaw had assembled his own camera, acquired the necessary chemicals (which had to be stored in a custom-made…

On the ride up the mountain to West Vancouver’s colonially monikered neighbourhood of British Properties, we cross paths with a flatbed truck carrying an uprooted fir tree down to the city below. It is not a happy sight, but our spirits are soon lifted. The drive to the Arthur Ericksondesigned Eppich House, created with his long-time collaborator Nick Milkovich, reveals a jewel of a residence that is both time capsule and design beacon. The house is a modernist classic, built for a steel manufacturer and his family, but it is far removed from its more rectilinear relations, such as Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House. Its curvilinear lines and response to the site are much more Frank Lloyd Wright than Mies – a late 1970s equivalent to Fallingwater that took…

Since 2006, a small Japanese printing company called Fukunaga Print has been exploring the seemingly endless possibilities of paper. Helped by a steady flow of young local talent, CEO Akiyoshi Yamada’s creative curiosity and love for the material has transformed this small printing shop on the outskirts of Tokyo into a fun-loving paper laboratory. Wallpaper* first met Yamada late last year, at the tenth anniversary exhibition of Kami No Kousakujo, the collaborative project he set up to bring together designers and producers to make innovative paper products (the name roughly translates as ‘paper-making shop’). The project produces a new collection each year and for the latest iteration, ten local architects, graphic and product designers were asked to come up with ideas around the theme of ‘weight’, with typically imaginative results.…

Promised sand OBEROI BEACH RESORT, AL ZORAH, AJMAN In the United Arab Emirates, the limelight has long shone brightest on Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah, with scant attention paid to the smaller emirates. So hats off to Oberoi Hotels and Resorts for spotting the unsung pleasures of Ajman, particularly the emirate’s 247 acres of protected forest in Al Zorah. Barely 25 minutes north of Dubai, the Oberoi Beach Resort – designed by Lissoni Associati as a series of grand pavilions, with an 18-hole championship golf course by Jack Nicklaus – offers powder-white sand, undisturbed lagoons, lush mangroves and vivid flocks of pink flamingos. Each of the 113 rooms is a tall-ceilinged set piece featuring cool stone and a private terrace, while uppercategory suites boast their own temperature-controlled pools. Equally palatial…

Abu Dhabi is spending £25bn building five new artistic institutions, alongside an existing exhibition centre, to make Saadiyat island a global arts destination. MANARAT AL SAADIYAT, BY AEDAS COMPLETED: 2009 A cultural centre with exhibition spaces that hosts the annual Abu Dhabi Art fair. GUGGENHEIM ABU DHABI, BY FRANK GEHRY BROKE GROUND: 2011 COMPLETION: TO BE CONFIRMED At 320,000 sq ft, this is set to be the largest of all Guggenheims, 12 times the size of the New York flagship. It will display contemporary art from the Gulf and around the world. ZAYED NATIONAL MUSEUM, BY FOSTER + PARTNERS BROKE GROUND: 2009 COMPLETION: 2020 The British Museum will lend hundreds of artefacts to help document the UAE’s history. MARITIME MUSEUM, BY TADAO ANDO GROUND NOT YET BROKEN This largely underwater…

This 1930s ‘Machine Lamp’ is reissued by newly revived Midgard – a task lighting pioneer that counted Walter Gropius among its early customers. Entrepreneurs David Einsiedler and Joke Rasch have acquired the company – ’the machines, the archive, everything’, says Einsiedler. The original tooling was adapted and the production lines reopened in Hamburg. The lamp can be specified for floor, wall, table or ceiling, with five different shades. ’Machine Lamp Typ 551’, from €1,920 by Midgard, from ply.com; midgard.com Time capsule This remarkable 1918 building in the Black Forest town of Schramberg once murmured with the quiet industry of watchmaking as the HQ of Junghans, at one time the world’s largest producer of watches and clocks. Designed by industrial architect Philipp Jakob Manz, its nine terraced galleries were each filled…

Interiors: Maria Sobrino Hair: Adam Szabo at Atomo Management Make-up: Rebecca Wordingham at Saint Luke Artist Management using Chanel Rouge Coco Gloss and Chanel Blue Serum Manicure: Saffron Goddard using Chanel Le Vernis in Particulière and Body Excellence Hand Cream Jewellery assistant: Aylin Bayhan Model: Charlotte Lindvig at Elite Model Location: Spring Studios…

A Abbott & Boyd Tel: 44.20 7351 9985 (UK) abbottandboyd.co.uk Abet Laminati Tel: 39.0172 419111 (Italy) abetlaminati.com AG agjeans.com Alessi Tel: 44.20 7518 9090 (UK) alessi.com Alexander McQueen Tel: 44.20 7494 8840 (UK) alexandermcqueen.com Alki Tel: 33.5 59 29 84 17 (France) alki.fr Amara Tel: 44.800 587 7645 (UK) amara.com Amtico Tel: 44.121 745 0800 (UK) amtico.com Amy Somerville Tel: 44.20 7586 2211 (UK) amysomerville.com AndLight Tel: 1.604 563 6938 (Canada) andlight.ca Apparatu Tel: 34.93 6750 105 (Spain) apparatu.com Aram Tel: 44.20 7557 7557 (UK) aram.co.uk Aria Tel: 44.20 7704 6222 (UK) ariashop.co.uk Artek Tel: 358.106 173 480 (Finland) artek.fi Artemide Tel: 44.20 7631 5200 (UK) artemide.com Atipico Tel: 39.03 7583 3124 (Italy) atipico.it Avenue Road Tel: 1.416 548 7788 (Canada) avenue-road.com B Baker bakerfurniture.com Bally bally.co.uk Barbara Casasola barbaracasasola.com…