Innholdsfortegnelse for March 2017 i Wallpaper

DO HO SUH Artist Suh collaborated on our fashion story (page 160), centred on the ethereal fabric ‘Hubs’ of his new show, ‘Passage/s’, at London’s Victoria Miro gallery. Born in Korea, educated at Rhode Island and Yale, Suh has lived in New York, Berlin, London and Seoul. No wonder he says that ‘my experience of transcultural displacement motivates my ongoing inquiry into the notion of space’. He also created our limitededition cover and is interviewed on page 126. ALEXANDER FURY Writer Fury, chief fashion correspondent for T: The New York Times Style Magazine, is renowned for his encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion and is a mighty force when it comes to analysing established and new talent. The 34-year-old journalist and author, whose career trajectory has spanned SHOWStudio, Love magazine and The…

This season, designers brought a pinch of pragmatism to their bags, using versatile strap details. Bringing ease to office accoutrements, Fratelli Rossetti has added backpack details to a leather document holder, while Chanel’s diamond-quilted bag can be worn either as a chain-strapped bucket bag or soft backpack. Valextra went more off-road, giving its signature ‘Iside’ bag detachable straps that resemble climbing ropes. In soft calfskin, its pyramidal design can be carried elegantly by hand or dexterously tied to balance on the back.…

 In a bid to open itself up to alternative narratives and bring in new audiences, the UK’s Hepworth Wakefield is launching a series of shows curated by creative forces in other fields. The first show opens this month. Entitled ‘Disobedient Bodies’, it is curated by Jonathan Anderson, the designer behind JW Anderson and creative director of Spanish leather goods house Loewe. The Hepworth’s chief curator Andrew Bonacina hopes these alternative viewpoints will create fresh ways of navigating the collection. He chose Anderson as ‘he has often spoken about his love of Hepworth’s work and many other British artists, such as Henry Moore, Ben Nicholson, Lucie Rie and Hans Coper’. He adds, ‘Jonathan has a very curatorial approach to bringing disparate things together in a way that’s expansive and promiscuous.’ Anderson,…

400 People seated at a giant candelabra-strewn table on Milan’s via Montenapoleone during fashion week, where a three-course banquet was served to celebrate the opening of Dolce & Gabbana’s new store 24 Peepholes in mirrored cubes, designed by artist Antonio Pippolini, giving a view of real, hairy men’s legs sporting Santoni shoes at the brand’s presentation in Milan 28 Giant balloon lamps set up in Paris’ Jardin des Plantes for Givenchy’s chilly outdoor show, where guests were wrapped up like baked potatoes in foil blankets 12 Models, six ballet dancers and 40 pairs of shoes all performing together in a 14-minute dance show held by Sergio Rossi at Milan’s La Scala opera house 6 Pizza-sized black sombreros worn by models at Milan’s Giorgio Armani women’s show 1,200 Hours to stitch…

A AG Hendy Tel: 44.1424 447171 (UK) aghendy.com Akris akris.ch Ann Demeulemeester anndemeulemeester.com B B&B Italia bebitalia.com Balenciaga balenciaga.com Bally bally.co.uk Boss Tel: 44.20 7734 7919 (UK) hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta Tel: 44.20 7838 9394 (UK) bottegaveneta.com C Carl Hansen & Søn Tel: 44.20 7632 7587 (UK) carlhansen.com Céline Tel: 44.20 7491 8200 (UK) celine.com Chanel Tel: 44.20 7493 5040 (UK) chanel.com Chaplins Tel: 44.20 8421 1779 (UK) chaplins.co.uk Christian Louboutin christianlouboutin.com Clerkenwell London Tel: 44.20 3826 1142 (UK) clerkenwell-london.com Comme des Garçons at Dover Street Market Tel: 44.20 7518 0680 (UK) doverstreetmarket.com The Conran Shop Tel: 44.20 7723 2223 (UK) conranshop.co.uk The Contemporary Wardrobe Tel: 44.20 7713 7370 (UK) contemporarywardrobe.com D Dior/Dior Homme Tel: 44.20 7172 0172 (UK) dior.com Dolce & Gabbana dolcegabbana.it Dover Street Market Tel: 44.20 7518 0680…

A well-worn shoe doesn’t usually scream sophistication, but this season, loafers with broken-in backs score footwear styling points. The slip-on shape has a languid ease, looking its best in natural tones of khaki, sienna and terracotta. At Giuseppe Zanotti, the shape has been dandified using slipper-like silk and crystal strap details, while at JM Weston and Santoni, the relaxed style remains more rugged, in tactile suede with aged leather upper folds.…

We’ve tasted so many American alimentary reinventions and rescuecases over the last few years, it’s hard to believe there are any old-time drinks and foodstuffs to rediscover, but the US is a big place with a complex history, so perhaps we shouldn’t have been surprised when hipster hangouts started offering a new old drink called switchel. A bit like British barley water, it’s a refreshingly sharp mix of water, cider vinegar and ginger, sweetened with sugar syrup, honey or maple syrup. Like so many traditional recipes, its origins are as cloudy as the sediment at the bottom of the bottle, but switchel seems to have been popular with the pioneers who settled the forests and mountains of New England in the 17th and 18th centuries. Though hailed by some as…

 When Norwegian architects Snøhetta were invited to compete for a new museum at France’s world-renowned cave painting site Lascaux, founding partner Kjetil Thorsen admits to being ‘a bit frightened’. But this cocktail of fear and respect paid off, because the firm pipped Jean Nouvel (among others) to the post. This must have been galling for the Frenchman, as he was born nearby in 1945, just five years after the paintings were discovered, outside the town of Montignac, in the Dordogne. The Lascaux cave paintings, which date back around 20,000 years, are nicknamed the Sistine Chapel of prehistory. They have been closed to the public since 1963 to protect them, so a copy was constructed nearby in the early 1980s as a mock-up experience for visitors. However, it is now deemed…

 The hand-hammered finishes, off-kilter geometry and faintly primordial feel of Fay Andrada’s jewellery contradict her early career as a graphic designer. There’s no linear perfection nor strict adherence to scale in her huge disc earrings, tubular gold studs or domed silver cuffs. Rather, the handwork and deliberate lack of precision that mark out the work of the Brooklyn-based designer point to the more organic talents of a craftsman or skilled metalworker. Andrada began her ‘totally unplanned’ creative realignment while working in advertising during the recession of the late 2000s. Jobs became scarce and she signed up for a class in metal jewellery design. At first, it was as a distraction. But Andrada also fancied that she could make pieces she had not discovered elsewhere. ‘I hadn’t responded to jewellery in…

Fashion may be fixated on the latest thing, but Salle Privée, Helbers, Connolly and Jeffrey Rüdes are dialling down the need for novelty, using luxurious fabrics and clever cuts to reinterpret ageless menswear staples. ‘In fashion today, people have access to everything, so I try to make things a bit simpler,’ says Patrick Munster, who launched Salle Privée in November 2016. The label’s luxe classics include gold-buttoned pea coats, merino roll-necks and single-breasted overcoats in a spectrum of greys. With seasonless designs on display at Salle Privée’s first store, in Amsterdam (designed by Sabine Marcelis, see page 116), Munster plans to issue signature silhouettes in varying cuts and fabrications throughout the year, in limited editions of 50. ‘I don’t want logos or prints on my designs,’ Munster says. ‘My shop…

Last summer the Korean artist Do Ho Suh papered over much of the interior of a fourstorey New York townhouse. It was thin paper, stuck down with gentle glue, a kind of second skin. Then he coated his fingers in pastel and rubbed the walls, ‘caressing them’ he says, different colours for different rooms. The rubbing got less intense the higher up the house he got and the rooms less familiar. Still, it’s a big house and it was a hot summer. Suh rubbed away his fingerprints. ‘I gave part of my body,’ he says. Suh had moved into the basement of the house in Chelsea almost 20 years before, just after completing his MFA at Yale. It worked well as a small, 500 sq ft apartment and studio, or…

Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen has never been one for conventions. Her career is remarkable for its restless energy, especially in its blurring of the lines between fashion photography and art. Her images offer glimpses of unguarded moments in the lives of her subjects – backs are often turned as if to protect a secret or the attention has been diverted to something happening off-camera. As we noted in our piece on Sassen’s ‘Pikin Slee’ (W*192), a moving documentary of a village in the Suriname rainforests, she ‘approaches her subjects almost like a sculptor who knows that light and shadow can create spaces’. Ironic, then, that one of her favourite dishes of artichokes and vinaigrette – always eaten on her birthday – is filled with such sunny flavours. ‘Don’t forget to…

The sharpest trends, trailblazers and sartorial triumphs Back in 1989, Issey Miyake began making revolutionary, lightweight, wrinkle-free pleated fabrics by feeding cut and sewn designs through a heat press. The innovative Japanese brand’s fabric manipulations continue to inspire, forming a strong presence on this season’s catwalks. At Jil Sander, the precise, narrow pleats of shirt-dresses were softened by voluminous cocoon sleeves, while at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson finished pleated dresses in sandy hues with shawlfringed graphic ruffles, and Consuelo Castiglioni’s final show for Marni updated chiton-like shapes with colourblocked pastels and asymmetric sleeves. Meanwhile, celebrating its own wrinkle-free heritage, Issey Miyake’s Yoshiyuki Miyamae created accordion-pleated jackets, cut and pasted to form sculpted concentric shapes.…

 Designers journeyed to the exotic grasslands and arid salt pans of Africa for S/S17, taking inspiration from the utilitarian hues and finishes of safari suits. Jackets in dusty camel and khaki featured epaulets and bellows pockets, which at Moncler Gamme Bleu also poked from the sleeves of boy scout-inspired beige shirts with popper fastenings. Prada energised its traditional safari suiting with neon orange outer stitching, a shade synonymous with modern outdoor apparel. And at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones brought an anarchic edge to his intrepid tailoring, accessorising belted safari jackets with punk-era dog-collar necklaces.…

Marques’Almeida Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida Founded: 2011 Stockists worldwide: 142, from Beirut to Auckland Renowned for: Their 1990s-inspired DIY denim, an aesthetic that has swept both high and mainstream fashion Vetements Collective headed by Demna Gvasalia Founded: 2013 Stockists worldwide: 200, from Moscow to Seattle Renowned for: Casting their friends and collaborators in their runway shows, held in interesting locations, from a Chinese restaurant to Galeries Lafayette Alexander McQueen was barely a year out of college when he began to court outrage and attention with his first fashion show in 1993. It’s a path many have followed since. What’s interesting about a new wave of talent is that the designers aren’t using the catwalk to generate buzz and business. They seem to have successfully skipped an evolutionary step. Many…

‘I want to push boundaries. I’d like to create something you haven’t seen before, or causes a moment of wonder’  When we meet at her Rotterdam studio, Sabine Marcelis is just back from Design Miami. She’s under the weather, but it’s nothing a festive palm tree decorated by her team can’t fix: the Dutch designer’s candy-coloured resin objects hang playfully from the makeshift Christmas tree. Marcelis, who was raised in New Zealand, studied at Design Academy Eindhoven and settled in Rotterdam in 2014. ‘My graduation project [in 2011] was very different to what I’m doing now,’ she says. ‘It was an installation [House Wine], an industrial design study on how to make wine at home. I wanted to draw attention to the process, to how the bubbles appear and the…

 Alber Elbaz must be the cuddliest man to have cut it in the world of couture. It’s not just his teddy-bear physique, but also his endearing ‘let’s take everything back to a human level’ approach to his work. His sensitivity means he cried real tears when his 14-year tenure as creative director of Lanvin ended abruptly and acrimoniously in 2015. And he is that rare fashion behemoth – one who frets over a decision that might upset someone. So it can’t have been easy choosing between the perfume samples created in his name by two of the world’s most esteemed noses, Carlos Benaïm and Dominique Ropion. As soon as Elbaz picked Ropion’s sample he was on the phone to Frédéric Malle, who was directing the project, to ask how Benaïm…

For stockists, see page 225 Grooming: Maarit Niemela at Bryant Artists Interiors: Maria Sobrino Prop styling: Louie Waller Model: Julien Heil at Tomorrow Is Another Day Casting: Sophie Castley for Lock Artists Production: Rosa Curtain for Lock Studios Shot on location in the gardens at Hatch House, Wiltshire, landscaped by Tom Stuart-Smith…

For stockists, see page 225 Hair: Maarit Niemela at Bryant Artists Make-up: Nicola Moores-Brittin at Coffin Inc Manicure: Saffron Goddard using YSL Beauty Set design: Janina Pedan at The Magnet Agency Shellfish: Bards Shellfish of Billingsgate Market Photography assistants: Corinna Schulte, Alfio Sambataro Fashion assistant: Marianne Kakko Model: Isobel at Nii Agency Casting: Julia Lange…