Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i OUT

EMILY SHUR Capturing this month’s cover subjects was a celebratory moment for photographer Emily Shur. “It was really fun to photograph so many different people that share a common thread,” she says. “What was once hidden is now a source of pride.” Shur, who lives in Los Angeles with her husband and their English bulldog, The Baroness, has also shot for The New York Times Magazine, The New Yorker, Nike, and HBO. Instagram: @emilyshur DIANA TOURJEE “Some trans people feel that to be trans is to go rogue into American society” says Diana Tourjee of her story on the under-researched field of transgender medicine (The HRT of the Matter, page 62). “Life-saving medicine for minority populations deserves clinical research.” Tourjee is a staff writer for Broadly, the women’s vertical of…

“Cities can be very reflective places—in fact, so reflective that you don’t actually see the reality going on in them.” MOVEMENT HAS ALWAYS been a constant for Elysia Crampton. The producer, whose experimental compositions are as rich and textured as the history that informs them, has spent much of her life in different parts of the world, many of which add deeper meaning to her music. “Even if I’d been in a small town my whole life, I think I would have found a way to construct fantasy and a way of negotiating with whatever reality I’m trying to understand at the time,” says the Bolivian-American artist, who grew up in Montemorelos, Mexico, and now lives in Sacramento. “Cities can be very reflective places—in fact, so reflective that you don’t…

“If fashion is identity, then realistically, there needs to be more than two generic standards for menswear and womenswear,” says Leon Wu, chief designer and CEO of Sharpe Suiting, a key brand propelling the growing trend of gender-nonconformist style. Whether cis, trans, or non-binary, Wu’s customers can find the perfect garment via Sharpe’s trademarked “Andropometrics” system, which matches clothing to each individual’s identity and uses online technology to help create custom sizes. “Fashion should know no gender,” adds Lily Taban of Kipper Clothiers, another sleek, clean-lined label for those looking beyond what may be hanging on department store racks. Kipper clients can work one-on-one with both stylists and tailors to select everything from fabric to fit, and they are even encouraged to bring their own vision boards for inspiration. “Androgyny…

Tamboerskloof An environmental pioneer launched in 2000, Tamboerskloof created a green water-treatment method on its farm that’s now used by 100 other wineries. Its Katharien rosé was voted South Africa’s top rosé last year, and its stylishly designed bottles look great at any dinner party. Thokozani Similar to Fairvalley’s model, Thokozani is 80% worker-owned. Its SMV blend—a mix of shiraz, mourvèdre, and viognier grapes—is a rich, plummy red with a hint of smokiness that’s a no-brainer for anything grilled, especially red meat. House of Mandela Is any name more synonymous with social justice than Nelson Mandela? House of Mandela, run by his daughter Makaziwe and granddaughter Tukwini, is continuing the activist’s legacy with a range of wines sourced from around the country, including a citrusy Thembu chardonnay.…

Kate Bush remains one of the most influential performers of the past century, and also one of its most enigmatic. The fact that she was able to achieve her iconic status while generally avoiding touring and press is a testament to how loudly her art speaks for itself. Bush’s visuals were splendid, sumptuous, bizarro affairs, and in the golden age of the music video in the 1980s, they became inextricable from her songs, which have found inspiration in everything from Wuthering Heights and Ulysses to the number › . The British singer’s output has become sporadic (just three full-lengths in the past two decades), but the new limited-edition book The Kate Inside (Wall of Sound Gallery) captures her on a winning streak. Featuring more than 300 rare images shot by…

SIX YEARS AFTER being diagnosed with HIV, Sabel Samone-Loreca boarded a bus from Atlanta to Los Angeles with five friends and no money. She spent most of the four-day ride sleeping, not sure where she’d go when she reached the city. Her desire for a new life was made urgent by her medical prognosis: “They told me I had three years to live,” she says. “I was petrified. I believed them. I felt I needed to see and do things in that time—to live in a big way despite my fear.” That was in 1993. Samone-Loreca turned 49 in August, and she is not only still alive, but a beacon to Los Angeles’s activist community—especially to those fighting for the rights of people living with HIV. Samone-Loreca, who identifies as…

3.1 Phillip Lim 31PhillipLim.com Alberta Ferretti AlbertaFerretti.com Alexis Bittar AlexisBittar.com A.P.C. usonline.APC.fr Barneys New York Barneys.com Bottega Veneta BottegaVeneta.com Britt Bolton Jewelry shop.BrittByBritt.com Cartography Cartography.nyc Christian Louboutin us.ChristianLouboutin .com Coach 1941 Coach.com Dior Homme Dior.com Dries Van Noten DriesVanNoten.be Eddie Borgo EddieBorgo.com Fendi Fendi.com George Frost LuluFrost.com Gucci Gucci.com Hermès Hermes.com John Varvatos JohnVarvatos.com Kipper Clothiers KipperClothiers.biz Loewe Loewe.com Louis Vuitton LouisVuitton.com Macy’s Macys.com Nordstrom shop.Nordstrom.com Pamela Love PamelaLove.com Prada Prada.com Rhea Costa RheaCosta.com Schutz Schutz-shoes.com Sharpe Suiting SharpeSuiting.com Stuart Weitzman StuartWeitzman.com The Ruby The-Ruby.com Tommy Hilfiger Tommy.com Valentino Valentino.com Versace Versace.com Vince Camuto VinceCamuto.com…

Feeling a bit alienated and apathetic this fall? So were those ’90s alt-rockers Nirvana, Alice in Chains, and Stone Temple Pilots, who brought their inner angst to the airwaves, and a ton of personal style to the fashion milieu. Plaid shirts (now reconfigured in attire from A.P.C.), destroyed denim (à la Gucci’s latest, bleach-splashed offerings), and kick-ass boots (embraced by Dior) were all fixtures of the grunge movement, conveying a message to polite society that you didn’t give a damn. Although it was considered the epitome of “unfashion,” this season grunge is the best, most cocksure way to upgrade your wardrobe.…

LET’S FACE IT: Pittsburgh’s reputation is pretty rusty. Once a beacon of American industrialization, Carnegie’s capital flatlined in the early ’80s. But the Steel City is getting some shine as districts of vestigial warehouses are being repurposed into shops, restaurants, and artist ateliers. Lawrenceville has been sharpening its edge for about a decade, with offbeat hangouts and startup offices inhabiting abandoned mills. Now, all eyes are on East Liberty. The old Nabisco factory is the locus of the burgeoning tech world there, giving the city a new raison d’être and making the Pitts, well, no longer the pits. BRANDON PRESSER AND JEFFREY URQUHART Ace Hotel Pittsburgh The fab refurb of a lapsed YMCA is the Ace’s newest home—and the de facto heart of East Liberty. Inside, the Whitfield slings New…

Reynolds’s manspreading gestures, sharp-tongued macho delivery, and ass-slapping cheekiness tease the butch-femme dichotomy. HOLLYWOOD CLASSICS like My Man Godfrey, The Awful Truth, Bringing Up Baby, and The Lady Eve were the greatest romantic screwball comedies because they conveyed courtship rituals as farce. These conventions still give lasting pleasure even when the characters are not strictly heterosexuals, as in the 1964 film Goodbye Charlie, Hollywood’s first transgender screwball farce. Goodbye Charlie (based on a play by George Axelrod and remade by Blake Edwards in 1991 as Switch, starring Ellen Barkin at her butchest) capitalized on the way the first screwballs celebrated more than marriage and idealized the very idea of sexual bliss. When philandering screenwriter Charlie Sorel is killed by a competing suitor and then reincarnated as a fetching blonde (Debbie…

AS PART OF LGBT HISTORY MONTH, Out.com is featuring a series of six mini-podcasts produced by Eric Marcus and his team (with funding from the Arcus Foundation) in collaboration with History UnErased, an organization dedicated to incorporating LGBT history into K-12 curriculums. In addition to an interview with Sylvia Rivera herself, you’ll find these five others: Edythe Eyde: In 1947, while working as a secretary at a Hollywood studio, Edythe Eyde published Vice Versa, the first newsletter for lesbians, typing it through twice on her office typewriter, using five sheets of carbon paper each time. In the 1950s, Eyde wrote her own lyrics to popular songs and sang them in gay clubs. Dr. Evelyn Hooker: At the urging of a gay friend, Ph.D. psychologist Dr. Evelyn Hooker…

WHEN WE WERE YOUNG and growing up in the 1980s and ’90s (the Wild West days of trans representation), the only folks we saw who were like us were the subjects of talk shows: gender warriors in compromised positions, fighting to keep their dignity in the face of coarse questioning, disgust, prurience, and pity. In that desert of trans visibility, at least these fragments were a clue that there were others out there. Though there’s still plenty of room for improvement, things have come a long way since then. The recent progress we’ve seen in trans representation has given us whiplash. From our roles as producers on Transparent and our Emmy-nominated Web series This Is Me to Zackary’s role as a cast member on I Am Cait and Rhys’s trans…

HOW TO DATE A TRANS GUY Blogger That Guy Kas’s guide for cis gay men Why should a gay cis guy consider dating a trans guy? For the same reasons he would date anyone: good chemistry. We will challenge you to be more communicative. For our own emotional and physical security, we will probably ask a lot of questions. And we will turn you into better listeners too. How can cis guys mind their manners? Don’t fetishize us. It’s creepy, and it objectifies us. Approach your questions with more politeness than you normally would, even if you’re on a cruising app. Never open a conversation by asking: • How long have you been on T? • Have you had / are you going to have / do you want surgery?…

If trans stories are important for all people, then trans employment in an industry like Hollywood becomes a symbol of possibility for anyone who’s been historically excluded. DEAR READER, It’s an honor to write to you as the guest editors of Out’s October issue. For those of you who don’t know us, we are artists and filmmakers. We are both trans, but in opposite directions—Zackary is a trans woman, and Rhys is a trans man. We both moved from New York City to Los Angeles to attend CalArts, and we both transitioned at age 25. We have many things in common, but we are also very different. We both identify as queer but have been L, G and/or B at different points in our lives. We are collaborators and colleagues,…

Rod Thomas—a.k.a. Bright Light Bright Light—continues to hook us with his melodic, ’80s-inspired electro-pop anthems. The Welsh-born singer’s third album, Choreography, released in July, finds him reunited with his former tour mate Sir Elton John and performing alongside Alan Cumming and Scissor Sisters’ Jake Shears. Though he’s now based in Brooklyn, Thomas has fond memories of Wales, a continuous source of inspiration for him. “Swansea, its second-largest city, is in one of the most incredible locations,” he says of the place where he grew up. “It has some of the cleanest beaches in Britain, and they’re really, really special.” Here, Thomas’s favorite spots back home for taking in the view, picking up new music, and decking the halls with drag queens. 1. CASTELLAMARE “This Italian restaurant is perched on a…

I should have been prepared for anything: I’d seen and heard it all. Yet the truth was that Sylvia scared the shit out of me. ON JUNE 28, 1969, Ray “Sylvia Lee” Rivera was a 17-year-old street kid and self-described drag queen just looking for a good time on a hot summer night in Greenwich Village—a night that would mark a key turning point in the nearly two-decade-old gay civil rights movement. When I met her 20 years later, Rivera was on her way to becoming an iconic symbol of the Stonewall uprising—a symbol almost as indelible as the Stonewall Inn itself. It was December 1989. I was a youngish gay journalist from Queens who was dressed for a winter’s day in my own straitlaced drag of corduroy and down.…