Innholdsfortegnelse for May/June 2019 i Bake from Scratch

Carved out by 10,000 years of Atlantic waves, Bermuda’s coastline is an array of sweeping crescents of pink-flecked sand, towering palms, and crystal clear ocean-fed lagoons. Beyond the shore, centuries-old pastel-colored cottages dot the lush hillsides, and hibiscus and oleanders drape the byways in bold pink blooms. Bermuda is a kaleidoscope of color and life, and its baking culture is no exception. While you may be drawn to this island for the gleaming waters and vibrant vistas, you’ll leave blown away by the baked goods. Sink your teeth into a warm slice of rich gingerbread, a cheesy scone made with sweet Bermuda onion, or a Bermudian fish sandwich piled high with fried fish, tomato, lettuce, and tartar sauce on raisin bread (more on that later). To fully experience Bermuda, you…

Makes 24 cookies Recipe Development by Julie Grayston-Smith Try adding in some dark chocolate chips or nuts to this cookie dough for extra flavor and texture. 1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, softened 2 cups (400 grams) granulated sugar, divided 1 teaspoon (4 grams) pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs (100 grams) ¾ cup (196 grams) banana purée (about 3 small bananas) 4½ cups (563 grams) all-purpose flour 2½ teaspoons (6 grams) cream of tartar 1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking soda ¼ teaspoon sea salt 1 heaping tablespoon (11 grams) plus ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon, divided 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line baking sheets with parchment paper. 2. In the container of a blender, blend bananas until they reach a smooth consistency. Set aside. 3. In the bowl of…

The Bermudian Home The archetypal structure of the island is a wonderful example of ingenuity and self-sufficiency. Bermuda is covered with short, square limestone cottages painted varying pastel shades. This architecture is sturdy enough to hold its own during hurricane season when the island is hit with raging wind and waves. It is the roof that sets the Bermudian home apart. Each whitewashed limestone roof has repeating horizontal lines of steps that curve up. Bermuda has no fresh water supply, so the roofs’ steps slow down heavy rainfall, helping the gutters to collect the water and store it in tanks under the houses. The Moongate Brought to Bermuda by the British in the 19th century, the moongate is of Chinese origin. Bermudians have developed their own customs surrounding the moongate.…

To ensure even baking and minimal browning, we bake our blondies in a 9x13 Williams Sonoma Goldtouch Nonstick Rectangular Cake Pan, available on williams-sonoma.com. Simplify the baking process by making the browned butter ahead and refrigerating it in an airtight container for up to 5 days. When you’re ready to bake, microwave in 10-second intervals to reheat until melted. The secret behind those glossy pools of chocolate on top? High-quality chocolate. When pulling the pan from the oven after the final 2 minutes of baking, slightly tilt pan so chocolate spreads.…

Store vanilla beans in an airtight glass jar. Glass containers keep out moisture and have a tight seal that helps keep vanilla fresh. When stored in a dry, dark environment, vanilla beans will keep for up to 2 years. Vanilla extract, sugar, and paste can be stored for up to 3 years. After opening, vanilla syrup can be kept for up to 3 months in a cool, dry environment. Do not store vanilla products in the refrigerator. The containers will form condensation and spoil the vanilla.…

Gold Rum Known for its light amber color and smooth caramel flavor, gold rum isn’t as strong as dark rum. It pairs well with recipes using fresh fruit or with vanilla-forward recipes. Dark Rum Distilled from molasses, dark rum (also known as black rum) has a smoky flavor profile similar to whiskey but with a slight sweetness. It shines in recipes that contain molasses, warm spices, or citrus. Spiced Rum Spiced rum is made by adding vanilla, cinnamon, cloves, and other spices to rum as it ages for a warm, rich flavor. Pair it with any recipe to which you’d like to add an extra layer of spice.…

MOCHIKO FLOUR This sweet rice flour is the secret behind butter mochi, a favorite Hawaiian confection. It lends everything a chewy, gelatinous texture that has to be experienced to be believed. Alana’s Pick: Koda Farms Mochiko Sweet Rice Flour, available at amazon.com. COCONUT MILK If you have full-fat coconut milk, you’ve already got one of the main ingredients for half of Alana’s recipes. Alana notes that quality is key when it comes to picking the right coconut milk. Her favorite brand? It doesn’t come in a can. Instead, she opts for a Thai brand of coconut milk that comes in a cardboard container. Alana’s Pick: Aroy-D Coconut Milk, available at amazon.com. GRANULATED CANE SUGAR Sugar is an essential ingredient to all sweet baking—but for Hawaiian baking, why go with cane…

Like most food stories, the tale of Hawaiian buns begins with immigrants in search of something better and new. They came from Madeira and the Azores, Portuguese islands dotted with volcanoes, craggy cliffs, and rocky beaches. In the late 19th century, they came to work the sugar plantations, bringing their families and culture to take root in their new Hawaiian home. These Portuguese transplants brought to Hawaii music (ukulele), dance, and, most deliciously, their cuisine. Rising, literally, above the Portuguese sausage and bean stew is pão doce, Portuguese sweet bread that’s rich in sugar and eggs but light as a feather—one bite and it completely collapses in on itself. To recreate the authentic sweet buns of their homeland, they used what was familiar, volcanic rock, to build a stone oven,…

FAVORITE TROPICAL FRUIT TO BAKE WITH? “Bermuda bananas are the best I’ve ever had because they’re sweeter than the rest. I love making banana bread with them.” “Guava! It’s super fragrant but has a mild flavor—kind of like a cross between strawberry and pear. I use it in cakes, curds, and pastry cream!” “I love loquats. During the winter, they’re everywhere in Bermuda. I add some to my rum cake after soaking them in black rum and Gosling’s Bermuda Gold Liqueur.” GO-TO RUM COCKTAIL? “Nothing beats a classic daiquiri. It’s refreshing in that it has no frills, and it’s equally tart and sweet—just like I aspire to be.” “The Dark ’n Stormy, but only when it’s made in Bermuda. They have perfected it there.” “Jumby Bay’s signature Rum Punch. My…

There’s a fragile millisecond of resistance when you bite into The Bakery at Fat Rice’s pastel de nata (egg custard tart) and your teeth meet the brûléed top. It dissipates instantly as you descend through creamy, lightly sweet egg custard before tearing into the flaky, croissant-like shell. Sort of Macanese by way of Portugal, it’s a pastry greater than the sum of its parts—at once dead simple and elusive with baking alchemy. You’ll wonder how the team consistently achieves this result in a single bake. “It was a seven- or eight-year process,” says Abe Conlon, chef and co-owner with Adrienne Lo of the Chicago pastry shop attached to Fat Rice, their relentlessly thronged Macanese restaurant. They first made egg custard tarts while hosting X-marx, their underground supper club that predated…

First printed in The Kentucky Housewife in 1839, Lettice Bryan’s “White Sponge” was the American entry into the global sponge cake canon: a snow-white cake supported by whipped egg whites, and with more sugar than flour and completely fat-free. Over the years, this delicate cake benefited from a few handy inventions—like energy-saving rotary egg beaters—and would go on to take the U.S. home baking scene by storm, heralded as the most ethereal of cakes, or food fit for angels. The angel food cake was born. While a simple dessert in appearance, the path to angel food cake has an involved process that can be tricky to navigate. A lot can go wrong with this finicky sponge: The egg whites can lose volume during folding; the cake can deflate during cooling;…

Removable Bottom: In order to keep our golden crust intact, we opt for a pan that has a removable bottom. You can bake angel food cake in a tube pan without a removable bottom, but you’ll risk peeling off that faintly golden cake coat on top of the cake. Not Nonstick: To get that signature angel food cake height, your egg-white heavy batter needs tall-sided cake pan walls to climb up. If it’s a nonstick pan, the egg whites will have a tough time, well, sticking and won’t have that extra level of lift. Prong Supports: Consider this more of a bonus rather than a make-or-break detail. Tube pans with little prongs on the top of the pan will help support your cake pan when you have to turn it…

Limestone bluffs, picturesque coves, and many of the island’s most renowned beaches line Bermuda’s shores at the “tail” end of the island. For panoramic sweeping views, climb to Bermuda’s tallest point, the top of Gibb’s Hill Lighthouse, one of the oldest cast-iron lighthouses in the world. Head to Somerset Village to watch sunrise over the Great Sound, or kayak through Ely’s Harbour to catch the sunset. Catch the ferry to the Royal Naval Dockyard, a sightseeing hub and maritime mainstay at the most western tip of the island.…

On the sun-drenched stretch of land in the middle of the Atlantic known as Bermuda, bread is a part of daily life. In professional and home kitchens alike, bread is offered at breakfast, high tea, and every moment in between. Year-round and island-wide, the same homemade banana bread and gingerbread sold by the slice in farmers’ markets and gas stations is offered on the menus of Bermuda’s finest dining establishments. Try Waterlot Inn’s Sticky Toffee Pudding made with gingerbread or the Banana Bread French Toast at Village Pantry. Bermudians pack and infuse their breads with the island’s most precious imports, such as spices, and local ingredients—from liquor to fresh indigenous fruits and preserves. Many of Bermuda’s breads have grown to become cultural staples. Take Bermuda’s fish sandwich, a national obsession…

SPRINKLE BLONDIES With a generous dose of rainbow sprinkles added to the batter, this twist on our Browned Butter Blondies is the ultimate party-ready treat. Gently fold ¼ cup (43 grams) sprinkles* into batter until combined. Spread batter into prepared pan. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons (21 grams) sprinkles. Bake for 30 minutes. Cover with foil, and bake 10 to 15 minutes more. *We used Betty Crocker Rainbow Sprinkles (10.5-ounce container) because they don’t “bleed” during baking. LAMINGTON BLONDIES Inspired by one of our favorite Australian desserts, we piled shredded coconut and melted chocolate chunks on top of our Browned Butter Blondies. A sticky sweetened condensed milk topper pushes these blondies right over the edge into indulgent gooey bliss. Bake traditional batter for 30 minutes. (Make sure the base is fully…

Vanilla Beans Look for plump, shiny vanilla beans, and stay away from those that look dry. To test the quality of the beans, shake the bottle when you’re at the store. If the beans clink inside, it means they’re dry. Vanilla Extract Check the label of the vanilla extract you’re buying. Avoid extracts marked “imitation vanilla.” These are chemically produced from synthetic vanillin and can leave a bitter taste in your recipes. Pure vanilla extract, while more expensive, is always best. Look for dark extracts over clear or caramel-colored ones to make sure you’re buying pure vanilla. Vanilla Paste Vanilla paste is a blend of vanilla extract and vanilla bean powder. To ensure you’re getting the maximum amount of flavor, look for a paste that uses ground vanilla bean powder…

Bermuda Gosling’s Black Seal Rum — The flagship label produced by Bermuda’s famous rum distributor, this rich dark rum is the Bermudian baker’s go-to for rum cake. Guyana Pusser’s Spiced Rum — Made to resemble the original rum rations of the British Royal Navy, this is a smooth spiced rum aged with Caribbean spices. Jamaica Appleton Special Rum — A gold rum with ginger, nutmeg, and vanilla notes made by Jamaica’s best-known distillery. Barbados Mount Gay Eclipse Rum — Made at the world’s oldest rum distillery, this fruity gold rum is aged in Kentucky oak barrels for added smokiness. Dominican Republic Brugal Extra Viejo — Aged for eight years in oak casks, this premium dark rum has vanilla and molasses notes reminiscent of Cognac. Haiti Barbancourt 3 Star Rum —…

LILIKO‘I CHIFFON PIE Makes 1 (9-inch) pie If you’ve ever visited Kaua‘i, chances are you’ve heard of Hamura’s Saimin. Located near the airport in Līhu‘e, the spot is known for two things: saimin and liliko‘i (passion fruit) chiffon pie. The first time I tried the pie, I knew it was a forever memory. From its light-as-air chiffon filling to the fluffy whipped cream on top, this pie is like a liliko‘i cloud. It takes a bit of time to make, but it is worth all the effort. If you can’t find fresh liliko‘i, check the freezer section of your local grocery store. Goya Foods makes a frozen 100 percent passion fruit pulp, and it is just as good as homemade. If you can’t find Goya, try Ceres brand 100 percent…

Makes 15 buns There’s little to improve upon the traditional Hawaiian bun formula, but we found that orange juice and a sticky honey glaze act as delightful complements to the classic recipe. 2 tablespoons (30 grams) warm water (105°F/41°C to 110°F/43°C) 1 tablespoon (9 grams) active dry yeast ½ cup (120 grams) canned pineapple juice ⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed dark brown sugar ¼ cup (60 grams) fresh orange juice ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted 3 large eggs (150 grams), room temperature and divided 1 large egg yolk (19 grams) 2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 4 cups (500 grams) all-purpose flour ¼ cup (42 grams) finely ground potato flour 1 tablespoon (15 grams) water or whole milk, room temperature ¼…

RECIPE BINDER  “Everyone should have a collection of heirloom recipes that are personal to you. I have a recipe binder my mother put together for me of all the things we’d make together growing up. The cake and cream cheese frosting recipes we use at Flour Shop are actually my mother’s that she put in the binder. Those recipes are so meaningful to me.” THE POWER OF SPRINKLES (Abrams, 2019) by Amirah Kassem “No matter the occasion, when you’re taking a cake somewhere, you want to know it’s your best. My cake book makes sure of that. It helps you master an essential cake recipe and teaches you how to decorate it in 28 different ways. And if you make a mistake, cover it in sprinkles!” Available at powerofsprinkles.com. EXPLOSION…

Before agriculture, before civilization even, there was flour. The common denominator to many baked goods is a 35,000-year-old ingredient in the making. Hidden within the Italian Grotta Paglicci, home of famous paleolithic cave paintings, scientists found a smooth stone used for one spectacular purpose: grinding grains to make flour. What the rudimentary flour was used to createflatbread? porridge? paste?—is still up for speculation, but it confirmed that flour was part of the diet of even the most primitive humans. It’s a magical ingredient we became even more devoted to when refined flour met the first strains of natural yeast. Call it texture, crumb, or chew—all of the tactile pleasure to be had in your baked goods begins with flour. But what makes a boule a chewy delight also makes for…

Lemon Curd A versatile sauce if there ever was one, this creamy citrus spread (page 43) is as at home on a slice of toasted milk bread as it is filling a crisp, buttery tart shell. Cured Egg Yolks for Ceylon Snickerdoodles The rich custard center of the Ceylon Snickerdoodles (page 24) from Chicago’s The Bakery at Fat Rice requires cured duck yolks, or, for our home baker-friendly adaptation, cured chicken egg yolks. So, save a few of your leftover egg yolks for this curing process. Pastry Cream for Malasadas Apply six of your leftover egg yolks to create the passion fruit-scented pastry cream that fills Alana Kysar’s addictive recipe for Portuguese doughnuts (page 104). You’ll have zero regrets. Brandy Crème Anglaise Like a loose-set version of boozy ice cream,…

The energy is palpable in the globally sophisticated capital city of Hamilton in Pembroke Parish. With tidy streets lined with colorful shops, the city offers a dose of cosmopolitan culture with a variety of options for dining and nightlife, too. Take a stroll down Front Street with businessmen dressed in Bermuda shorts and knee-high socks and white-wigged justices headed to court. All ferry routes depart from the ferry terminal on this street, too. Observe art from around the world inside the Bermuda National Gallery in Hamilton City Hall or in the 134-year-old Hamilton Princess & Beach Club. Relax on the pristine beaches lining Bermuda’s northern and southern shores. Explore the quintessential harbor town of Flatts Village, one of the oldest settlements in Bermuda and home to the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum…

Loquat Jam, Monica’s Bakery | 441.296.0301 Portugal native Monica Arruda makes her preserves with fresh fruits and vegetables grown on the island. Get the sweet and savory spreads at Lindo’s and most grocery stores and farmers’ markets. Passion Fields Honey | @passion.fields / 441.704.4411 It doesn’t get much sweeter than Bermuda honey. Passion Fields Maintenance and Beekeeping Ltd. founder Spencer Fields harvests his honey from more than 200 hives across the island. He sells his honey at farmers’ markets. Call or check the Instagram for updated locations. Gombey Pepper Jam, Bermuda Jam Factory | bermudajamfactory.com The Bermuda Jam Factory’s line of gourmet jams includes several sweet and spicy flavors. All the jams go well with cheese, on pasta or grilled meats, or in baked goods. (We use it in our…

Traditional Blondies FROM OUR FESTIVE SPRINKLE BLONDIES TO OUR AUSSIE LAMINGTON REDO, THESE RECIPES PLAY UP THE CLASSIC FLAVORS OF OUR BROWNED BUTTER BLONDIES BROWNED BUTTER BLONDIES Makes 12 blondies Flavored with brown sugar and vanilla, our traditional blondies get a nutty spin with browned butter in the batter. With luscious butterscotch notes, this essential recipe is both the perfect canvas for sweet new creations and a stunner in its own right. 1½ cups (340 grams) unsalted butter 3 cups (660 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 4 large eggs (200 grams), room temperature 1 tablespoon (13 grams) vanilla extract 1 tablespoon (18 grams) vanilla bean paste 3 cups (375 grams) all-purpose flour 1. Preheat oven to 350°F…

VANILLA BEAN MACARONS Makes about 20 sandwich cookies We sandwiched Caramelized White Chocolate Buttercream between two vanilla bean-speckled shells for our most luscious macarons yet. 1⅓ cups (128 grams) blanched almond flour 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (127 grams) confectioners’ sugar ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt 3 large egg whites (90 grams), room temperature ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 1 vanilla bean*, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) vanilla extract* Caramelized White Chocolate Buttercream (recipe follows) Garnish: vanilla sugar 1. Using a permanent marker, draw 1½-inch circles 1 inch apart on 2 sheets of parchment paper. Place parchment on 2 rimmed baking sheets; top with nonstick baking mats. 2. In the work bowl of a food processor, place flour, confectioners’ sugar, and salt; process until well…

MINI COCONUT-PEPPER JELLY CAKES Makes 6 mini Bundt cakes These nectarine-studded cornmeal cakes get sweet heat with a double dose of pepper jelly. As an homage to Bermuda Jam Factory’s famous pepper jelly, we mixed pepper jelly into the batter and our spiced rum glaze. ½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, softened ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar 3 tablespoons (60 grams) hot pepper jelly 1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature 1 tablespoon (15 grams) spiced rum* 1½ cups (188 grams) cake flour ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder ½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt ¼ cup (60 grams) full-fat coconut milk ¼ cup (60 grams) whole buttermilk, room temperature ¾ cup (120 grams) diced peeled nectarines ½ cup (60 grams) packed sweetened…