Tabla de contenidos para October 2018 en Wanderlust

It’s been swelteringly hot here in the UK this summer, so it’s hard to imagine that we’ll soon be donning fleeces, scarves and gloves again when winter rolls around. In the meantime, we thought we’d cool ourselves down with ideas for incredible icy and snowy adventures. Even if you don’t like the cold, you’ll find something to inspire you (p117). Elsewhere, we track chimps in Africa’s jungles (p56); enjoy Celticnoir and literary landscapes in Wales (p86); explore alternative Incan trails in Peru (p24); and discover the best of Hong Kong and Macao (p40). So, there’s plenty to get your feet itching. And I hope lots of you will make your way to the Wanderlust World Guide Awards on 4 October (p32). If you haven’t been before, then come along for…

WANDERLUST WORLD GUIDE AWARDS London, 4 October www.worldguideawards.com Royal Geographical Society, 1 Kensington Gore, SW7 2AR. Doors open at 6.30pm; ceremony from 7.15pm. £5 (including a drink). Book online. Come along and honour the unsung heroes of travel. Spend the evening with the globe’s greatest guides, the Wanderlust team and the judges, including the legendary Bill Bryson. Find out who wins this year’s Gold Award – the recipient of a bursary of £5,000 – see the other finalists on the night and enjoy a drink on the house. Plus, as Wanderlust marks a quarter of a century since it began, we’ll be casting our minds back over the last 25 years of our history. WILDLIFE AND SAFARI TRAVEL SHOW Harrogate, 29–30 September www.wildlifesafarishow.com Harrogate Convention Centre, Kings Road, Harrogate, HG1…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Kampala Population: 41.49 million Language(s): English, Swahili Time: GMT+3 International dialling code: +256 Visas: UK nationals can apply for an e-visa in advance (visas.immigration.go.ug). A 90-day single-entry visa costs US$51.50 (£40); an East Africa Tourist Visa (valid for Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda) is US$103 (£80). Visas can also be bought on arrival. Money: Ugandan shilling (USh), currently around USh4,784 to the UK£. US dollars are accepted at tourist establishments. Visa cards are more widely accepted than other credit or debit cards. When to go • Hot dry season – plenty of sunshine, with average temperatures peaking at 35°C. Migratory birds are present. • Long rains – forest trails can be muddy, especially in April, and lack of food causes chimps to range widely, making tracking hard. Some…

BITERS When heading to high latitudes, think first about how you’ll keep insects away. Migrating birds fly all the way around the globe for the Arctic all-day-breakfasts on offer from May (including whole battalions of ravenous insects), so be ready for the volume of biting flies you could face. Fortunately, they are annoying rather than dangerous, but they can ruin a trip. This cold region is known to be home to large numbers of flies of all kinds, mosquitoes and also midges and blackflies – called ‘no-see-ums’ because they are so small that you may feel a bite and yet fail to spot the perpetrator, which looks like a tiny black spot. Subsequently, the bite site itches a lot. You may expect the climate to be cold in the Arctic,…

WEIGHT Of course, how much your clothing weighs is important, but when it comes to thermals (often called baselayers), the ‘weight’ takes on a new meaning, especially when it comes to natural fibres. As a general rule, the heavier the weight (usually identified in the item’s name), the warmer the thermal – so a 250gsm would be warmer than a 150gsm. If you’re going to be very active in cool conditions, then a lighter weight will suffice, but if heading to very cold climates and standing around a lot, a higher number will be best. TOP AND BOTTOM So many people invest in good thermal tops but forget about their legs. This might be ok if you’re moving around a lot, but if stood still, then your lower body will…

The Tourism Authority of Thailand are offering one lucky person the chance to go on a ten-night writing commission to Thailand. They will get to report back on some of the conservation projects being undertaken there first-hand; these stories will later be published in Wanderlust magazine and on its website. To enter, send in a 350-word article covering any green or sustainable travel experience you’ve encountered on your trips around the world, covering one or more of the following: marine/natural wonders and cultural heritage; ethical animal experiences; local community experiences; or an eco-lodge stay. To enter and for full terms and conditions and data policies, visit www.responsiblethailand.co.uk .The closing date for entries is 31 October 2018.…

The highlight: Nature! Glaciers, whales, seals, bears, mountains, lakes and forests, encompassed in an afternoon’s kayaking around the remote Tatoosh Islands. Must see: The Mendenhall Glacier, close-up and personal – well worth the helicopter trip to land on the top of it. Cautionary tale: It is very easy to get captivated by the scenery and knock over drinks (several times!) while taking photos aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train! Top tip: Wear layers. During the summer you can experience four seasons in one day in both the Canadian Rockies and Alaska. I wish I’d known... More about Calgary. I saw it as the end of the trip and hadn’t done my research. It was well worth a couple of days to explore. Anything else? Packing for a trip that includes nice…

Take a husky safari Try your hand at the traditional Sámi mode of transport and guide a team of energetic husky dogs on a course through the frozen Lappish landscape. Alternate between showing off your newfound skills as a husky musher and getting comfy in the sled to watch the aurora borealis dance through the skies above. Sleep in an igloo Lapland offers the most incredible array of unique places to sleep, from individually-designed treehouses to hotels made entirely from ice. Opting for a night (or three) in a private igloo with a glass roof allows you to experience the incredible northern lights displays at any time of night – all from the comfort of your warm bed. Visit Camp Barentz Head really far north to Svalbard and spend an…

CRUISES Take a trip in northern Norway, combining orca- and whale-spotting in the fjords by day with cosmic sightings at night (Oct–Feb). Some of the region’s cruise operators offer another trip free if the aurora borealis doesn’t appear, such is their confidence that it will. HIKING Northern Canada is slap-bang in the auroral oval. Trips out into the remote reaches of Arctic Yukon combine snowmobiling, dog sledding and remote gold rush ghost towns. At night, you’ll hike out into the snowy hills to watch the northern lights. DOG SLEDDING There are few more remote locations than eastern Greenland. On a dog sledding expedition (Feb–Mar) among the glaciers and fjords of the Ammassalik region, you’ll mush into some of the wildest parts of the Arctic to gaze up at the clear…

SNOOZE IN AN ICE CAVE Svalbard On a two-day trip with Svalbard Wildlife Expeditions (wildlife.no; Nov–May) to Lars Glacier on Spitsbergen, you’ll sleep in a caves (with a mat and sleeping bag) beneath a starry ceiling of ice crystals. SEE THE AURORA FROM YOUR BED Iceland Spend a winter’s night in a glass bubble in Iceland’s 5 Million Star Hotel ( buubble.com ; Sept–Mar) and watch the northern lights dance across the sky from your bed. SNUGGLE UP AT THE ICE HOTEL Sweden The first ice hotel ( icehotel.com ) opened in Jukkasjarvi in 1989, and was rebuilt every winter. Now, a permanent addition sees part of it open year-round, so you can sleep on ice in any season. STAY IN YOUR OWN IGLOO Finland Traditional…

We’ve received thousands of entries for the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year 2018. But don’t worry, there’s still time to submit your top shots to the UK’s biggest travel photography competition. After so many years, we shouldn’t really be surprised, but the standard of entry has been incredibly high. Nevertheless, if you’ve got a great image gathering dust, send it in. It doesn’t matter whether it was from a recent trip or an old escape, just drop us a line! But please do note that the competition is only open to amateur photographers, with the four category winners (along with a travel companion of their choosing) sent on a fantastic Wanderlust photo commission to Hong Kong and Macao courtesy of the Hong Kong Tourism Board and Macao Government Tourism…

Before you arrive Approaching the busy intersection of a main road when you’re riding a bike always brings with it a quick succession of emotions – namely abject fear, terror and dread. You edge towards the highway, readying to spot a gap in which to race through and – hopefully – make it out to the other side in one piece, deeply suspecting that the oncoming traffic will speed up when you make a break for it, seeing this as an invitation to play a high-stakes version of chicken. I experienced all of these feelings when I picked up my two wheels in Downtown Portland, Oregon’s capital city in the USA’s Pacific Northwest. Pedalling towards the crossroads I readied myself for a long wait followed by a mad, frightening dash…

1 In the 1800s, Hong Kong’s Lantau Island was ruled by a pirate queen who kept European forces at bay; p40 2 The ‘red skeleton’ found on Wales’ south coast is the oldest ceremonial burial site in Western Europe; p86 3 Mix cold seawater with the thermal sands of the Antarctic’s Deception Island to create a hot bath; p117 4 Having been loaded with 64 bronze cannons – double capacity – it’s no wonder ‘Sweden’s Titanic’ sank; p157 5 Virgin Galactic’s new flights will eventually top 80km above sea level – the height NASA says qualifies passengers as astronauts; p160…

‘They just wanted to experience that thrill of journeying into the unknown’ So, you’re all packed for your next trip and heading to the airport for your flight. But imagine this: instead of having your whole itinerary in front of you, you actually have no clue about where you’re going. This is the notion behind one of travel’s growing trends: the ‘mystery trip’. The idea is simple: you pay a company to craft a surprise adventure, and you don’t find out where until you get to the airport (or sometimes not even until you land). But in an age when research is key for many travellers, and with guidebook sales on the rise again, why are these cryptic trips so in demand? “We launched to bring fun back into travel,”…

Being a fisherman is tough, no matter where you are. But the waters off Shetland make for the sternest of challenges. Still, that didn’t stop the islands’ old haaf fishermen – a long-gone style of fishing inherited from the Vikings – who’d set out in sixareen (six-oared) boats for days at a time. Many of their crumbling boathouses stand today, where travellers can inspect the initials of those who never made it back etched into the soapstone. Shetland’s love for the sea hasn’t wavered, either. More fish are landed on its islands than across England, Wales and Northern Ireland combined. Haddock, mackerel, halibut and salmon swarm its seas and tidal streams, bringing with them preying seals, porpoises, whales and dolphins – a wildlife spectacle. Mussels cling to both submerged farmers’…

The ‘stranger’ occupies an unusual role in our travels, making an unexpected cameo and often becoming the star of the story. Crucially, they can also provide an insight into local life, as they cease to become the feared ‘other’ and simply become human. The Kindness of Strangers (Summersdale, £10) collects together stories of these fateful, life-affirming and sometimes life-changing encounters, with a range of writers including Leon McCarron, Ed Stafford and Benedict Allen, and all royalties going to Oxfam to fund work with refugees. Mefo Phillips attracts her share of strangers on her 2,250km Via Francigena pilgrimage from Canterbury to Rome. Doing the journey on horseback certainly grabs locals’ attentions, as Long Rider to Rome (Signal, £13) charts her canter to Italy through the literal highs of the Alps and…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Lima Population: 31 million Language(s): Spanish, Quechua, Aymara, plus a number of other native languages. English is spoken in tourist destinations, but basic Spanish is very helpful. Time: GMT-5 International dialling code: +51 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to six months. Money: Nuevo sol (PEN), currently around PEN4.25 to the UK£. Credit cards are accepted in most tourist hotels and restaurants. ATMs are available in towns. When to go • Driest season – dry in the highlands and rainforest. Machu Picchu, the Inca Trail, and other popular treks are busy and must be booked months in advance. • Shoulder seasons – fairly dry, but trails are quieter and attractions less busy. • Wettest season – rains in the highlands and Amazon. The…

Trailfinders are offering a lucky reader the chance to win an eight-night trip to eastern Canada for two people, including stays in Toronto, Ottawa, Tremblant, Québec City and Montréal, as well as nine-day Alamo SUV hire and Air Transat flights. To be in with a chance of winning, just answer the following question: Q: Which city has the largest population in Québec? a) Québec City b) Montréal c) Toronto To enter and for full terms & conditions and data policies, visit wanderlust.co.uk/competitions  or send your answer to the Wanderlust office (address p2); state ‘more info’ if you want to be contacted by Wanderlust or its sponsors. The closing date is 10 October 2018.…

Exodus Travels’ Winter Programme Manager Tom Wilkinson on his essential Scandinavian travel tips… BEST TIME TO VISIT: Take your pick: snow or sun? Winters here serve up picture-perfect snowscapes, with frozen lakes, snow-laden forests and bright white vistas, and are perfect for a number of winter-based sports and activities. By contrast, summer offers daylight into the small hours – even 24 hours a day if you’re far enough north. WHERE TO GO: For otherworldly landscapes, go to Iceland; but don’t just stay around Reykjavik, head further out and look to the other points on the compass. Head south for walks across glaciers or trek the mountains of the East Fjords for a unique perspective – there’s beauty all around the island. For winter adventure, go to Finland, around the Arctic…

BAM Long-sleeve Baselayer & Enduro Deep Waistband Leggings / Zip Neck Bamboo Baselayer & Training Leggings £35 (top), £44 (bottoms) / £50 (top), £35 (bottoms) The test: Made from a mix of bamboo, organic cotton and elastane, the first thing you notice is that these baselayers are super soft to touch. The fabric is not only good at moving sweat away from skin but, like merino, has naturally occurring antibacterial properties to stop it smelling. All the seams are flatlocked, though not all sit flat against the fabric and I was quite aware of them compared to others. They also sit close to the body, to keep you warm, but have the added advantage of thumb loops on the sleeves. With a 340gsm fabric – classed as heavy – they…

VITAL STATISTICS Capital: Cardiff Population: 3 million Language: English and Welsh. Time: GMT International dialling code: +44 Money: £UK. ATMs are easy to find. When to go You can visit the south coast of Wales at any time of year, but popular beaches, such as Dunraven, can get crowded during school holidays and summer weekends. Spring to late summer – the best times to see wildlife on the Gower, although it can get busy with visitors. Guillemots and razorbills arrive for the breeding season in June and July, and nest on the cliffs at Worm’s Head. Harbour porpoises are found here year-round. The carnival also takes place in Laugharne in July, and may be rolled into the longer Laugharnival, which takes place every three years to raise funds for local…

When it comes to travelling, the phrase ‘see the real country’ is employed far too generously. But for the residents of the northern Spanish region of Asturias, it’s actually more a statement than superfluous travel inspiration. A Christian kingdom established seven centuries before Spain proper (718 AD), it was the only part of the country that resisted the Moorish invasion. And as the saying goes: ‘Asturias is Spain, the rest is reconquered territory.’ But with spectacular deep valleys, fascinating cities, a dramatic coastline interspersed with golden sandy slivers and a history that’s envied across Spain, they had much to fiercely protect. These days, the landscapes and culture of Asturias have remained untouched for centuries, ready to charm and awe the modern-day visitor… Nature & wildlife Asturias’ natural drama isn’t just…

STAR LETTER Recalling Chad  It is very rare to find an article about the wildlife of Chad, so I found your 360º Viewfinder piece [July/August 2018, issue 188] about Zakouma National Park hugely encouraging. In 1989, I worked for Mission Aviation Fellowship in Chad for a month helping villagers build runways for light aircraft in order to bring in much-needed healthcare and relief to otherwise remote settlements. It took us a day to travel along the one bumpy main road out of the capital, N’Djamena, to reach the first village. We then spent two weeks clearing and levelling the strip, at the end of which the first aircraft was able to make a safe landing, before heading back to the capital. Its only passenger on the return leg was me,…

Fuelling our desire to drive the USA’s most iconic road trip: “Seeing pictures of Route 66 won’t do anything but increase my want to tour it!” Katherine Maundrell Purring about Brazil’s Pantanal: “Spent a week there ten years ago. Loved it, though I didn’t see a large cat.” @sussexmouette Blown away by Scotland’s beaches: “Just wow! I have to spend more time in the Outer Hebrides over the next year.” @D_Houston Enjoying the bonuses in the September issue of Wanderlust: “Loved the beautiful birdwatching supplement!” Keith Kellett Being wowed by the epic landscapes of alpine Switzerland: “It’s still one of the most spectacularly beautiful places I have ever visited.” @BrettKennedy2 Eyeing up Malaysia’s hills: “I missed the Cameron Highlands as we were rained off in Ipoh, but we went to…

DECEPTION ISLAND Antarctic A popular stop on Antarctic cruises, the island’s black shores have geothermal qualities. Digging into the sand releases boiling water; mix this with the freezing sea water and you have an instant volcanic steam bath. UUNARTOQ ISLAND Greenland On Uunartoq, reached by boat from Nanortalik or Qaqortoq, you can lie back in a natural hot spring and watch icebergs float by offshore. KHIR GANGA Himachal Pradesh, India From the Parvati Valley, it takes around four hours to hike to Khir Ganga, a sacred meadow where the Hindu god Shiva was said to have meditated. Here, hot springs come with fine views of the snow-topped Himalayas. MAGUSE ONSEN Nagano, Japan Set in the Japanese Alps, the natural waters of this onsen (hot spring) are best enjoyed in winter,…

THE SHACKLETON WALK THE ROUTE: Fortuna Bay to Stromness, South Georgia, South Atlantic; cruises depart from Ushuaia (Argentina) or Punta Arenas (Chile) It was in 1915 that the explorer Ernest Shackleton ran into trouble in the Weddell Sea when his ship, the Endurance, became trapped in the ice. As its hull gave way, he and his crew escaped, eventually landing on the sub-Antarctic Elephant Island months later. To bring help, Shackleton and five trusted companions still had to make for the island of South Georgia, where they trekked over 50km, exhausted and starving, to the whaling station at Stromness. Today, tours (in conjunction with a number of Antarctic cruises; Nov–Mar) recreate the last 6km from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, revealing South Georgia’s spectacular scenery along the way. DRIVE THE ICE…

HONG KONG Few visitors realise that the districts of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon evolved out of hundreds of tiny villages and communities. But in wandering the neighbourhoods that span the city, it soon becomes clear. Even in Old Town Central, remnants of tradition poke through, from dai pai dong stalls dishing up milk tea by the gallon (pictured), to temples where the wharf labourers used to worship. Then there’s Sham Shui Po in Kowloon, an important docks (until reclamation pulled it far from the water) turned market area, where bustling stalls and street eateries handed down across the generations give a taste of a life unchanged in decades – if you happen to point your lens in the right direction. www.discoverhongkong.com MACAO Just 60km separate Hong Kong…

• Essential Info Population: 639,863 Language: English Time zone: GMT-8 (Mar–Oct GMT-7) International dialling code: +1 207 Visas: Not required by UK nationals. You will need to obtain an ESTA before arrival (esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta): these cost $14 and are valid for two years. Currency: US dollar ($), currently around $1.28 to the UK£. ATMs are readily available. Credit cards are widely accepted. Tipping is expected. Best viewpoint: To get the iconic cityscape with views of Mount Hood looming in the distance head to Mansion House on NW Pittock Drive, to the west of downtown – reachable by bike or on foot (though it is uphill). You’ll want to make a beeline for the back garden, where the best views in the city await. Health issues: None. But travel insurance is always…

• Essential Info When to go: Year-round – though for lavender June-August is best, with the huge festival celebrating the last harvest taking place in Sault on 15 August. Getting there: British Airways (ba.com) flies direct to Marseille Airport from London Heathrow Airport three times daily, from £74 return including all taxes and charges. Getting around: The author travelled on a self-guided three-night trip with BSpoke (bspoketours.com) on their Perfumes of Provence short break. The tour includes transfers from the airport to the starting point of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, B&B accommodation in three- and four-star hotels, daily luggage transfers, bike hire (e-bikes are available and recommended for this itinerary), with GPS guidance and return transfer to the airport. Prices from £525 (tour only), £825 (including flights). Where to stay: Throughout Provence there…

You don’t have to be a maritime buff to find this museum fascinating. Over several levels you’ll find impressive exhibits detailing the demise of the Vasa, as well as beautifully restored remnants of the ship. It soon becomes clear that the Vasa was more than a battleship: it was intended to glorify King Gustav II Adolf – hence the magnificent sculptures of mythical marine creatures, Greek gods, and biblical heroes that adorn its hull. 1 Vasa The centrepiece of the museum is the salvaged and restored wreck of the Vasa, one of the largest warships of its time: 69m long, 11.7m wide and 52.5m to the top of the mast. It could have carried 445 men – 145 of which would have been crew, the rest soldiers. Roughly 30 people…

Tom Morton Broadcaster and cookbook author Broadcaster Tom Morton is Shetland through and through, working across newspapers, magazines and radio on this string of Scottish isles. He has joined with his son, James, to chat about Shetland’s hearty and deliciously simple cuisine (p17). Mountain, desert, ocean or jungle… which are you? Ocean. I live 10m from the high-tide mark on a beach in Shetland known as Da Aest Ayre. First great travel experience? Flying to New York in 1986 and accompanying the then-penniless band Del Amitri on a three-week busking tour of the USA. Favourite journey? Riding a motorbike from Cape Town to Johannesburg via Port Elizabeth and Durban in 2000. Well, I say my favourite – it had its share of scary moments! Top five places worldwide? Shetland; Glasgow,…

‘You’d have a difficult bit to climb, but then you’d have to do it all over again for close-ups’ Why is it important to seek new challenges as you get older? Not just after you retire – always! I’m not a fan of contentment. Edie is a story of a woman who had no life; she has been living with a controlling man and then been a carer for him, 24-hours a day. Once she’s freed from all that she says, ‘I’m not going to collapse in exhaustion. I’m not going to give up. I have more purpose.’ Edie actually girds her loins and decides to do something positive. And I think that’s wonderful. Did you get to enjoy the landscapes in Sutherland when making Edie? Unfortunately, I only ever…

YES Peter Moore, Wanderlust associate web editor “Why not? The Great Wall of China was originally built to repel the Mongol hordes, so I don’t think a bunch of travellers bedding down for the night is going to do too much damage, especially if you make sure to follow the rules of wild camping and leave no trace. Just imagine the sunrise – the wall stretching out to the horizon, bathed in an irresistible golden light… and not a single tourist in sight. Who would turn that down?” NO Pippa-Rosy Steffell, Wanderlust reader “They shouldn’t allow tourists to sleep there. Litter and all sorts will be found when they leave. It’s already happened in Iceland, where a few of the natural springs have had to be closed off because tourists…

Ancasmarca is not your average service station. Downy cacti pimple a rocky ridge. A lonely caracara falcon soars high overhead, hungry eyes keenly scanning the scrub for prey. Hundreds of round chambers barnacle the slopes like the cells of a monstrous beehive. Silence reigns, bar the crunch of my boots, the whisper of mountain breezes tickling violet lupins and my rasping breath as I hoover scant oxygen. No, Watford Gap Services this is not. But though it’s hardly a British motorway – traffic is sparse on the road snaking towards the 4,440m Lares Pass, and there’s nary a flat white to be had – it’s not an entirely spurious comparison. Six centuries ago, Ancasmarca was a major Incan caravanserai on one of the trading routes bringing gold, silver and coca…

Chimpanzees are in decline across their range: in parts of Africa, they’re clinging on by their fingertips. But well-managed eco-tourism has the power to help protect the forests that are crucial to their survival. The Albertine Rift, where East Africa meets the jungles of the Congo, is an excellent spot for a primate-watching adventure. Truly vast in its biodiversity, it harbours most of Africa’s chimps as well as more endemic wildlife species than any other eco-region on the continent. Uganda is arguably the pick of the lot, due to its prime habitats not only for chimps but for mountain gorillas, golden monkeys and other primates. But it’s not the only option, as travellers to these regions will discover… UGANDA KIBALE NP KANYANCHU BEST FOR: Photography. Kibale is the world’s busiest…

Why did you try a bikepacking trip? I’ve always been a fan of camping, and a couple of friends kept asking me to come on a bikepacking trip with them. I eventually gave in and flew out to the USA to embark on my first trip along the Mississippi River (which is beautiful by the way) for a five-day adventure. What preparation did you do before? As we were flying out to the US, we found a place to hire the bikes we needed for our adventure, along with buying supplies there for the trip. We also researched the best routes we could take as well. Would you recommend any particular items of kit for first-timers to take along with them? A great frame bag would be worth looking out…

1 You snooze, you lose  Get up early and stay out late to catch the beautiful light of what the pros call the ‘blue hour’. The hotels and restaurants on Route 66, in particular, are known for their colourful and intricate neon lights, which look great in photographs. To get a good picture, shoot just after sunset and use a long exposure (maybe 10 to 15 seconds) to ensure that these blinking lights are recorded properly in your image. 2 Plan ahead  Planning a trip is essential to making the most of your time and shoots. Be sure to scout your intended destinations on Google first, and check the weather and drive times as well as hotel availability. If you are serious about your photography, use a sun-finder app like…

1 Tulum, Mexico  There are so many cenotes In Mexico, it can be hard to single out a few. But Dos Ojos, which means ‘Two Eyes’, should be at the top of your list thanks to its pair of gin-clear pools for snorkelling and diving. They’re connected via a spectacular cave system that drips with stalactites, while gentle chinks of light illuminate colonies of bats. 2 Ewens Ponds, South Australia A trio of spring-fed limestone cenotes, Ewens Ponds is an unlikely but magical haven for wildlife. One swim can see you glide past spiny crayfish and Ewens pygmy perch, while the pond floors are carpeted in lush reeds and kaleidoscopic algae. If you’re feeling adventurous, strap on your diving gear and explore the dark tunnels linking them. 3 Bimmah sinkhole,…

YOUR TIPS ON… SOLO TRAVEL From having a chuckle on your travels to outsmarting would-be thieves, here’s your top tips for those going it alone... Remember your sense of humour “Pack your sense of humour, as you will need it! There’s no experience as great as laughing out loud to yourself at something you’ve just done or seen. Try to keep a diary, too, so you can remember all those great experiences that you’ll have.” Kelly Eaton Start in a safe place “Book your first night’s accommodation in a safe, central area, then join a walking tour of the town/city. You’ll get great local insider information on the best places to eat and explore, plus off-the-beaten-track tips. You may even meet somebody on your wavelength or just have a really…

Blunder wall “While I was on the historic walls of Dubrovnik (pictured), a thunderstorm rolled in and it rained heavily. The walls are only one way, so once you’re on them, you have to go all the way round!” Victoria Clare Shivering in transit “A friend joined us at the very last minute on a Trans-Siberian Railway trip in early spring. He met us in Beijing in shorts and a T-shirt and no other clothes. He had to drink a lot of vodka to keep warm.” Charlotte Cheeseman Blowing hot and cold “After visiting a hot and sunny Petra, we went to Amman in our shorts to discover it was brass-monkey weather – we were that cold. We learnt a very valuable lesson though.” Robert Constable Sweating in silk “I…

CULTURAL CONNECTIONS DRIVE REINDEER WITH THE SAMI WHERE: Lapland (parts of Finland, Sweden, Norway and Russia) Lapland offers wild hiking, dog sledding, aurora sightings and grand ice hotels. But the real joy of this region lies in meeting the indigenous Sami, the semi-nomadic people that still make a living by herding vast numbers of reindeer across the boreal forests of Arctic Scandinavia. Stays in Lappish communities, bedding down in a traditional lavvu (tent) and dining on smoked reindeer and wild berries, open up this world to visitors; in Arctic Norway you can even join the herders on their spring migration from the snow plains inland to the islands north of Alta. You’ll ride side by side with them on snowmobiles or reindeer-pulled sleighs, passing mountains, crossing lakes and taking in…

HARBIN SNOW AND ICE FESTIVAL China WHEN: 21 Dec 2018–Feb 2019 The world’s biggest winter festival (pictured) is a -20ºC wonder. Grab a tanghulu (candied fruit stick) and admire the rows of snow sculptures, then assail the neon-lit ice palace. Expect winter swimming displays, ice hotels and dog sleds. KIRUNA SNOW FESTIVAL Sweden WHEN: Jan 2019, dates tbc Yes, there’s ice-sculpting and reindeer races at this celebration, but there’s dog sledding and Sami traditions, too, offering genuine insights into Lappish culture. SAPPORO SNOW FESTIVAL Japan WHEN: 31 Jan–11 Feb 2019 Here, ice carvers create everything from giant frozen Manga characters to a replica Angkor Wat to make a 1.5km display across Odori Park, best seen lit up at night. ICE MUSIC FESTIVAL Norway WHEN: 14–19 Feb 2019 Hear ice-built instruments…

“You have to hand it to the monks – they really are savvy when it comes to marketing,” is perhaps a phrase you don’t imagine overhearing, particularly when deep in rural France. But in Gordes – and particularly when standing in a queue inside the gift shop of Sénanque Abbey, whose likeness adorns the cover of many a Provence guidebook, it really is all there is to say. For here in what is arguably the most famous landmark in the entire region, the ecclesiastical residents know what people come for – and they’re not afraid to sell it to them. I should know: having stopped in on a three-day cycling trip around the lavender-rich province merely to get a photo, I now found myself in a line readying to pay…

Get orientated Say the word ‘ship’ to a Stockholmer and they’ll probably reply with ‘Vasa’ – the legendary warship that’s treated like a Scandi Titanic. It was completed in 1628, and was a vessel well ahead of its time – lavishly decorated with wooden carvings depicting everything from Greek gods to the Swedish royal family, and big enough to hold 450 soldiers and crew. Like the Titanic, it sank on its maiden voyage in mysterious fashion, horribly overloaded with 64 bronze cannons (nearly twice the number it was designed for), which severely reduced its seaworthiness. However, unlike the Titanic, nearly all of its remains have been recovered – the cold, oxygen-poor Baltic Sea prevented the wood from rotting. Now, the Vasa has been proudly rebuilt and stands in its own…