At the Calar Alto Observatory, scene of the finish of stage 11 of the 2017 Vuelta a Espana, the atmosphere was bleak. Thick cloud smothered the 2,120m summit. Rain crashed down, turning the earth to mud. It was a jarring, unpleasant contrast to the first half of the race – more like Belgium in spring than Spain in late summer, as Chris Froome said.
Only three days earlier, with the temperature in the mid-30s, the peloton had hugged the Costa Blanca, racing through Alicante, Benidorm and Calpe, the holiday towns’ streets lined almost cruelly with spectators who’d rushed from beach to roadside, clutching cold bottles of beer and clad in swimming trunks and bikinis.
Now at Calar Alto, it was warm jackets and umbrellas as far as the eye could…
