Tabla de contenidos para November/December 2023 en Handwoven

In the initial stages of planning the photo shoot for this issue, I mentioned that of the issues I had worked on, I felt the projects for this one were the most personal. Cloth woven by hand always has an intimacy, but combining cloth with elements that reflect the weavers’ other passions made this group of projects feel special. I first had that feeling while reviewing proposals. Probably the one that made me smile the most was Gwen Anderson’s reference to her “totally ridiculous love for [her] five grandboys.” Gwen wove a set of scarves for those grandsons and generously shared the pattern with us for the issue. Another standout was Ilze Tomsevics’s. Ilze loves to bake and make bread. Her contribution? Bread bags. She makes the storage bags in…

Travel the World Satisfy your sense of adventure with this dainty pair of scissors from Brooklyn Haberdashery, perfectly sized for clipping tails close to the cloth. Shaped to resemble the Eiffel Tower, the scissors are 4 inches long and crafted from nickel- and 24k gold-plated carbon steel. Keep them at your loom or tuck them and their protective paper sheath into your project bag to accompany you on your next crafting expedition. brooklynhaberdashery.com A Welcome Respite Take a break at your loom and remind others of your favorite hobby—and your need to concentrate—with this Tahoma Vista Fiber Mill ceramic mug. Enjoy 11 ounces of your favorite hot beverage while you get creative and maybe even try out the weaving sequence on it as well. Looks like a rosepath twill! tahomavistafibermill.etsy.com…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 5 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 22/2 cottolin (60% cotton/40% linen; 2,925 yd/lb; Bockens), #2002 Unbleached, 1,024 yd. 8/2 Egyptian cotton (100% cotton; 3,250 yd/lb; Bockens), #31 Hot Pink, 512 yd; #7502 Dark Slate, 192 yd; #62 Pumpkin and #153 Olive, 160 yd each. Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #2002 Unbleached, 849 yd. 8/2 Egyptian cotton, #31 Hot Pink, 240 yd; #7502 Dark Slate, 210 yd; #62 Pumpkin and #153 Olive, 214 yd each. Note: Weft yardages are generous to allow for experimentation in the final towel. WARP LENGTH 512 ends 4 yd long (allows 11" for take-up, 25" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 32 epi (16 epi per layer; 4/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 32 ppi (16 ppi per layer).…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 boat shuttle and 5 bobbins or 5 stick shuttles. YARNS Warp: Palette (100% wool; 231 yd/50 g; Knit Picks), #23724 Sky and #24583 Cyan, 515 yd each; #24575 French Lavender, 672 yd; #24246 Pimento and #24585 Grass, 305 yd each. Weft: Palette, #23724 Sky, 421 yd; #24583 Cyan, 414 yd; #24575 French Lavender, 479 yd; #24246 Pimento, 359 yd; #24585 Grass, 352 yd. WARP LENGTH 220 ends 10½ yd long (allows 14" for take-up, 48" for interstitial fringe, about 36" for loom waste; loom waste includes end fringe). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 11". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) average of 56" per scarf.…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 4 shuttles; 1 stick or netting shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/4 cotton (1,680 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #3161 Jaune or, 70 yd; #1152 Vert foncé, 36 yd; #83 Noir, 12 yd; #1770 Bourgogne and #1315 Orange pâle, 68 yd each. Weft: Rayon chenille (1,450 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #R871 Gold, 37 yd; #R868 Dk. Olive, 18 yd; #R882 Purple and #R875 Orange Br., 36 yd each. 8/4 cotton, #83 Noir, 10 yd. Note: #R882 Purple is discontinued. Try #R809 Eggplant or #R878 Violet as a substitute. OTHER SUPPLIES Tapestry needle. WARP LENGTH 127 ends 2 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 4" for take-up, 34" for loom waste and sampling; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed).…

STRUCTURE Twill with color-and-weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 26" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Nature Spun fingering weight (100% wool; 2,800 yd/lb; Brown Sheep Company), #800 Black Oak and #730 Natural, 1,206 yd each. Weft: Nature Spun fingering weight, #800 Black Oak and #730 Natural, 988 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES 80" measuring ribbon; yarn needle; T-pins; pick counter (optional). WARP LENGTH 402 ends 6 yd long (includes optional floating selvedges; allows 16" for take-up, 40" for loom waste and interstitial fringe; loom waste includes end fringe). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 15 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 25" or 252/8". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 160"; two pieces, 80" each. Finished size: (after wet-finishing and seaming) 39" × 65"…

I’m an archivist by profession but a knitter and a relatively novice weaver by hobby. As my guild, the Greater Lansing Weavers Guild, prepared for its 70th anniversary, I learned that members had concerns about the long-term management of its books and documents. I saw an opportunity to help as I am the local history specialist for the Capital Area District Libraries in Lansing, Michigan. In our department, we care for records from numerous community clubs and organizations, both active and dissolved, so the guild materials were an easy fit. Moving the collection to the library benefits the guild in many ways: materials have been organized, they are stored in safe preservation conditions, they are indexed on the library’s website, and they are accessible to anyone who wishes to use…

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 Bast and Friends For our first issue in 2024, we will look at bast and other types of plant-based fibers—alone, in yarn blends, or in combination with other types of yarns. The issue will include articles about plant-based fibers, their cultivation, their historical significance, and their position in today’s fiber world. MARCH/APRIL 2024 Flights of Fancy Sometimes something simple will spark an idea. This issue based on flying and the concept of flying will look at things such as the feathers on a bird, a twill pattern in an airplane seat cushion, the feeling of looking up into a cloud of butterflies, the passing of time, or the perfect V of a flock of geese flying at sunset that can be the source of a weaver’s inspiration. MAY/JUNE…

Weaving with Wire: Creating Woven Metal Fabric Christine Miller The ingenuity and determination of weavers never stop surprising me. The other day, I heard about a weave structure new to me—and new to the person describing it. Like a dog who couldn’t let go, she was scouring the internet for information in her quest to develop a draft. Her next step was putting thread on the loom. This same sort of curiosity and willingness to explore is the hallmark of Christine Miller’s contributions to the weaving world over the last 30 years, using wire in her many sculptural pieces, her teaching, and now this book, Weaving with Wire. I found this book inspiring not just because of the beautiful pictures of weaving, of which there are many, but because Miller approaches…

STRUCTURE Overshot. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; R&M Yarns), Natural, 796 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, Natural, 160 yd. 1,550 turns per meter S-twist linen crêpe yarn (10,400 yd/lb; GevolveYarns; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), 160 yd. Note: Add 180 yd each of cotton and linen wefts for sampling. OTHER SUPPLIES 14" × 14" pillow form or polyfill; commercial fabric for pillow back. WARP LENGTH 398 ends 2 yd long (allows 2" for take-up, 32" for loom waste, 20" for sampling). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 30 ppi (15 each pattern and tabby). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 199/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 18". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and sewing) 15"…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 22" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #1089 Alabaster, 1,358 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, #1325 Daffodil, 968 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES 7/8" double-fold bias tape quilt binding, yellow, 15 yd. Note: The apron bib and skirt are woven on one warp. The fabric is used warpwise for the bib and turned weftwise for the skirt. WARP LENGTH 388 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8½" for take-up, 36" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (2-1/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 18 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 217/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 81½". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and sewing) two aprons, 26" × 26½" each. This project combines…

STRUCTURE Turned taqueté (jin). EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 25" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (prewound, hand-dyed warp; 2,100 yd/lb; Blazing Shuttles) Winter Jewels, 1,200 yd. 8/4 carpet warp (100% cotton; 1,600 yd/lb; Great Northern Weaving), Black, 1,200 yd. Weft: 8/4 carpet warp, Black, 2,000 yd. (Includes weft yardage for weaving a third smaller bag.) OTHER SUPPLIES 1" single-fold bias tape, 2¼ yd; two 40" shoelaces; 44" lightweight fabric, ½ yd, black or preferred color. Note: Amounts listed are per bag. WARP LENGTH 480 ends (240 ends each of hand-dyed and black) 4¾ yd long (allows 20" for take-up, 51" for loom waste). Note: Warp length allows for weaving fabric for a third, smaller bag. SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 16…

STRUCTURE Turned taqueté. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 28" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Bambu 7 (100% bamboo; 2,100 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds), #360 Onyx, 1,835 yd; #010 Rice, 1,285 yd; #799 Sky, 360 yd; #159 Conch, 190 yd. Weft: Bambu 12 (100% bamboo; 6,300 yd/lb; Cotton Clouds), #360 Onyx, 1,657 yd. WARP LENGTH 734 ends 5 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 12" for take-up, 11" for sampling, 36" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 26.25 epi (2-2-2-1 in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 28". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 121". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) 23" × 95" plus 4½" fringe. One of the things I love about weave structures is how you can use…

Easier Way to Tie up Treadles? I’ve been dreading tying up treadles (bad back, bad knees, old age). So, one day I sat and looked at my Gilmore loom and thought, “What if… ?” What if I remove the reed, pull the reed beam forward, and with soft knees, bend over the breast beam (now I know why it’s called a “breast” beam). Yes! By reaching between the cloth roll and the heddles, I could easily reach the treadles to retie. (I use arrow pegs and Texsolv cords.) I needed my short reaching tool to pick up treadles that weren’t tied. Now, even with a pulled hamstring muscle, it was a supereasy task. I set up one Gilmore for twill and the other for plain weave. I will never need…

WEAVE STRUCTURE False satin. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 22/2 cottolin (70% cotton/30% linen; 3,175 yd/lb; Venne; Lone Star Loom Room), #5041 Brass, 400 yd; #1006 Yellow, 200 yd; #6044 Burnt Orange and #2002 Jaffa, 300 yd each. Weft: 22/2 cottolin, #5041 Brass, 202 yd; #6044 Burnt Orange, 205 yd; #2002 Jaffa, 185 yd; #1005 Deep Yellow, 180 yd. Fine linen or cotton yarn, such as 40/2 linen or 20/2 cotton, for hems (optional). OTHER SUPPLIES Fishing line for floating selvedges, 5 yd. WARP LENGTH 480 ends 2½ yd long (allows 6" for take-up, 26" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in reed: 20". Woven length: (measured under tension on…

STRUCTURE Twill and plain weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (100% cotton; 4,200 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #8176 Natural, 1,085 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #8176 Natural, 530 yd. 5/2 pearl cotton (100% cotton; 2,100 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #2608 Wedgewood Blue (bag #1) and #6399 Sheer Lilac (bag #2), 32 yd each. Note: Yardage listed is for two bread bags. OTHER SUPPLIES Cord or ribbon for drawstring; Fray Check (optional). WARP LENGTH 434 ends 2½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 36" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 24 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 182/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 45" (22½" per bag). Finished…

STRUCTURE Parallel network twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; Tubular Spectrum; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), 5 Yellow Red, 210 yd; Black, 450 yd; Bleached White, 24 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Burnt Orange, 210 yd. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, 5 Yellow, 340 yd. WARP LENGTH 297 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 34" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 40 epi (4/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 76/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 66". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 6½" × 58½" plus 6½" fringe. Life is good when our passions and our work overlap and cross-pollinate.…

As part of my studies of wool production in the United States, I search for forgotten fabrics of the nineteenth century, satinet and cassimere in particular. Satinet had a cotton warp and woolen weft woven in a satin-weave structure. It enjoyed a brief period of popularity before it was replaced by cassimere, a lightly finished woolen fabric, most commonly woven in the 2/2 twill that we all know. The quest to find these fabrics has taken me to museums, historical societies, historic mills, and archives. Wool items are hard to find because much of the fabric from the era I was studying had perhaps been recycled into shoddy (a type of woolen yarn made from shredded fabric) or eaten by moths. In desperation, I wondered if these fabrics had been…