Tabla de contenidos para September/October 2023 en Handwoven

Since 1876 Arizona FIBER CREEK Prescott AZ 86305 (928) 717-1774 fibercreek@hotmail.com California CUSTOM HANDWEAVERS Mountain View Tel: (650) 967-0831 Fax: (650) 967-1005 www.customhandweavers.com webemit@sbcglobal.net CUSTOM HANDWEAVING Redondo Beach Tel: (310) 316-0910 or: (866) 656-1060 www.nancyscustomhandweaving.com customhandweavin@aol.com JULIAN WEAVING WORKS Julian (760) 765-2432 info@weaverslink.com SAN FRANCISCO FIBERS CO. Oakland (510) 893-2015 www.sanfranciscofiber.com lou@sffiber.com Colorado BOUNTIFUL Livermore (877) 586-9332 info@bountifulspinweave.com www.bountifulspinweave.com FIRESIDE COUNTRY STORE Grand Junction 970-858-9288 lynnjenks9@gmail.com Florida SERENDIPITY FARM & STUDIO Leesburg (757) 651-2632 serendipityfarmstudio@gmail.com Illinois FINE LINE CREATIVE ARTS CENTER St. Charles (630) 584-9443 www.fineline.org info@fineline.org Indiana THE WEAVERS LOFT Guilford (812) 576-3904 weaving@nalu.net www.weaversloft.com Kansas THE YARN BARN Lawrence (800) 468-0035 yarnbarn@sunflower.com Kentucky THE WOOLERY Frankfort tel: (502) 352-9800 fax (502) 352-9802 http://www.woolery.com info@woolery.com Louisiana WEAVIN' PLACE Folsom (985) 796-8048 www.weavinplace.com cheryl@weavinplace.com Maine HALCYON YARN Bath (207) 442-7909…

I would like to give the Handwoven March/April 2023 issue a big round of applause. I have so many architectural photos (of natural and man-made structures) waiting for me to design with them, and these articles were so inspiring. On top of that, the fact that these weavers were kind enough to share their creative problem-solving processes—and you were willing to give them the space to do it—was spectacular! —Gillian Miller I have a unique story that I thought might serve as a warning to others about a potential danger with looms. I have my loom near a window in an upstairs bedroom. Recently, I went up to work on a project and found a section of the warp broken. At first, I could not imagine how the ends had…

Given the import of the weaving program, it might come as a surprise to some that Weaving at Black Mountain College is the first exhibition to spotlight the program, its teachers, and its students. Along with a focus on the works created by those within the program, the exhibit also explores the way the program affected the rest of the art and design curriculum within the college. Originally downplayed as “women’s work” and as a craft rather than true art (and therefore deserving of less funding and respect), the weaving program is finally being recognized. On display from September 29 through January 6 at the Black Mountain College Museum + Arts Center, the exhibit showcases objects from both the college’s permanent collection as well as pieces on loan from private…

STRUCTURE Polychrome crackle. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 8" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Gold, 514 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel (Valley Yarns; WEBS), Aquamarine, 202 yd; Blueberry, 201 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Brassard), #5214 Magenta, 202 yd. WARP LENGTH 169 ends 3 yd long, 2 ends 3½ yd long for floating selvedges (allows 5" for take-up, 29" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 36 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 73/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 74". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 6" × 71" plus 7" fringe. After studying iridescence for many years, finding a new approach made me happy! A workshop with Susan Wilson…

STRUCTURE Satin. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 11" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Carmelina 30/2 silk (100% muga silk; 6,800 yd/lb; Treenway Silks), Natural, 1,495 yd. Taiyō 30/2 silk (100% bombyx silk; 7,500 yd/lb; Treenway Silks), #57 Raven Black and White, 260 yd each. Weft: Blocks scarf: Taiyō 30/2 silk, White, 750 yd; #57 Raven Black, 60 yd. Shaded Satin scarf: Taiyō 30/2 silk, White, 670 yd; #57 Raven Black, 167 yd. Note: One 100 g skein of each yarn is sufficient for warp and weft for both scarves. OTHER SUPPLIES Yarn swift and ball/cone winder for winding the silk into balls or cones; PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue also called white or wood glue, optional. Note: Winding the silk will be easier if you position the axis of the…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 33" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #154 Forest Green and #12 Red, 303 yd each; #139 Chamois, #11 Tangerine, #23 Nassau, #53 Scarab, #109 Bermuda, and #80 Oleander, 300 yd each. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #136 Wintergreen, 982 yd. Note: #154 Forest Green, #139 Chamois, #23 Nassau, and #80 Oleander are discontinued. Try #136 Wintergreen or #28 Hunter, #91 Flaxon or #139 Champagne, #63 Yale Blue or #21 Soldier Blue, and #3 Fuchsia as substitutes. OTHER SUPPLIES Crafty Carry-All pattern from Serendipity Studio’s Artful Bags pattern booklet (see Resources); 2½ yd commercial fabric (cotton or poly/cotton); 1⅛ yd Pellon Peltex; 3 yd Pellon 911FF fusible facing; fastener; jeans/denim sewing needle. WARP LENGTH 962 ends…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 24" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Rayon Chenille Deluxe (100% rayon; 1,300 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #242 Aegean Blue, 420 yd; #882 Garden and #074 Wild Chestnut, 294 yd each. Rayon Chenille 1300 (100% rayon; 1,300 yd/lb; Silk City Fibers), #672 Golden Sun, 336 yd. Weft: Rayon Chenille 1300, #003 Celadon, 722 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES 1¼" × 1" piece of Ultrasuede or similar fabric. WARP LENGTH 384 ends 3½ yd long (allows 8" for take-up, 36" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 24". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 82". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and sewing) 20" × 34" (each side when folded as poncho).…

Recently, I traveled to northern California for a wedding. Not wanting to drive that far, I took the train to San Luis Obispo, where I met my sister. The train ride takes longer than the drive, but I used the six hours wisely, hemming two towels, working on an inkle-band pouch, and then getting inspiration from the views outside the window. After Los Angeles, the train goes up the coast and at times crosses areas of California that have never been developed and are, for the most part, inaccessible. It’s almost surreal to see beaches filled with flocks of birds rather than people, cliffs so rugged that you doubt anyone has ever scaled them, and coves tucked into the cliffs that have never been visited by a person. When I…

The soft yellow of the natural bashōfu contrasts with the kasuri (a Japanese form of ikat) motifs and the stripes in the cloth, both of which are dyed blue-black (using indigo) or dark brown (using dyes made from hawthorn plants native to the island). Okinawan kasuri, which uses shifts in the weft- and warp-dyed threads to produce designs such as arrows, birds, and diagonals, was the original inspiration for the blue and white cotton kasuri commonly associated with mainland Japan. The time-consuming processes to make the fabric—which, when first woven, resembles stiff linen—made it vulnerable to advances in industrialization. That, and the disruption caused by World War II, nearly put an end to the production of bashōfu. It is thanks to the work of skilled artists and weavers, including Toshiko…

STRUCTURE Deflected doubleweave and networked twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 3 shuttles; 10 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 2/14 Alpaca Silk (80% alpaca/20% silk; 3,472 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Light Gray, 528 yd; Amethyst, 464 yd; Black, 376 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Aquamarine, Ruby, Burnt Orange, and Lemon Grass, 64 yd each. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Brassard), Mauve, 64 yd. 8/2 bamboo (100% rayon from bamboo; 3,360 yd/lb; Brassard), Magenta, 64 yd. 20/2 silk (100% spun silk; 4,900 yd/lb; RedFish Dyeworks), bright green, 64 yd. Weft: 2/14 Alpaca Silk, Light Gray, 500 yd. 8/2 Tencel (Valley Yarns), Aquamarine, 65 yd; Ruby, Burnt Orange, and Lemon Grass, 56 yd each. 8/2 Tencel (Brassard), Mauve, 65 yd. 8/2 bamboo, Magenta, 65 yd.…

STRUCTURE Echo weave. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Amethyst, 413 yd. 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Brassard; Eugene Textile Center), Marigold, 452 yd; Dark Royal, 763 yd; Limette Pale, 497 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel (Valley Yarns), Blue Purple, 912 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Color-catcher laundry sheets or dye-fixative solution such as Retayne. WARP LENGTH 607 ends 3½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 28" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 30 epi (3/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 16–17 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 204/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 87½". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 19" × 83" plus 8" fringe. Last year, my guild hosted…

STRUCTURE Twill with parallel threading. EQUIPMENT 12-shaft loom, 17" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Cotton Ne 20/2 mercerized (1,840 yd/100 g; Venne-Colcoton Unikat; Lone Star Loom Room), #3020 Raspberry and #4024 Deep Purple, 318 yd each; #2009 Orange, #5052 Shamrock, #4064 Peacock, and #4062 Cobalt, 315 yd each. Weft: Cotton Ne 20/2 mercerized, #4072 Red Violet, 1,400 yd; #4062 Cobalt, 4 yd. WARP LENGTH 632 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 24" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 37½ epi (sley 2-3 per dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 37½ ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 1614/15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 76". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 15" × 67" plus 5" fringe. While studying Weaving…

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2023 Venn Diagrams Based on anecdotal evidence, we believe many weavers are also bird-watchers, gardeners, and great cooks, but we want to know for sure! This issue will be filled with projects and articles that show how our designers and authors express, or perhaps accessorize, their other passions, occupations, and hobbies with weaving. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 Bast and Friends For our first issue in 2024, we will look at bast and other types of plant-based fibers—alone, in yarn blends, or in combination with other types of yarns. The issue will include articles about plant-based fibers, their cultivation, their historical significance, and their position in today’s fiber world. MARCH/APRIL 2024 Flights of Fancy Sometimes something simple will spark an idea. This issue based on flying and the concept of flying will…

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STRUCTURE Plain weave with warp and weft floats. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 6 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Ecru, 153 yd; Lemon Drop, 105 yd; Straw and Whipple Blue, 72 yd each; Lemon Grass and Birch, 63 yd each; Silver Gray, 36 yd. 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #76 Tea, 36 yd. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, Birch, 224 yd; Lemon Drop, Lemon Grass, Straw, and Silver Gray, 10 yd each. 10/2 pearl cotton, #91 Flaxon, 170 yd. WARP LENGTH 200 ends 3 yd long (allows 5" for take-up, 29 inches for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 84/12".…

STRUCTURE Modified M’s and O’s. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Georgia Yarn Company), Natural, 2,185 yd. Weft: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #3611 Red, #5637 Pacific, and #7198 Burnt Sienna, 187 yd each; #1205 Banana, 82 yd; #2574 Heather, 216 yd. 8/2 Cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #04 Plum Green, 164 yd; #5214 Magenta, 187 yd. 6/2 cotton (2,520 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), Red, Royal, Magenta, and Sienna, 90 yd each; Sage, 135 yd; Banana, 68 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Double-bobbin shuttle (optional); sewing thread in Natural. WARP LENGTH 380 ends 5¾ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 15" for take-up, 39" for loom waste and sampling). Add 22" for each additional napkin or placemat. SETTS…

In Bobbie Irwin’s book Weaving Iridescence, she mentions that even though you will probably get iridescence from these contrasting colors, you might not like the outcome. In other words, just because your fabric is iridescent doesn’t mean you’ll think it’s attractive. My plan was to weave several structures that I hoped would produce a variety of iridescent fabrics. In most cases, I achieved beautiful iridescent cloth, but I also wove some cloth that didn’t meet my expectations. Should I have sampled? The simple answer is yes. I discovered multiple iridescent color combinations. I also discovered three ways not to weave iridescence, each one having a different flaw that kept me from achieving my goals. #1 OVERDONE In this cloth, I wove with shiny 8/2 Tencel and sett it at 24…