Tabla de contenidos para March/April 2022 en Handwoven

Since 1876 Arizona FIBER CREEK Prescott AZ 86305 (928) 717-1774 fibercreek@hotmail.com  California CUSTOM HANDWEAVERS Mountain View Tel: (650) 967-0831 Fax: (650) 967-1005 www.customhandweavers.com webemit@sbcglobal.net CUSTOM HANDWEAVING Redondo Beach Tel: (310) 316-0910 or: (866) 656-1060 www.nancyscustomhandweaving.com customhandweavin@aol.com JULIAN WEAVING WORKS Julian (760) 765-2432 info@weaverslink.com SAN FRANCISCO FIBERS CO. Oakland (510) 893-2015 www.sanfranciscofiber.com lou@sffiber.com Colorado BOUNTIFUL Livermore (877) 586-9332 info@bountifulspinweave.com www.bountifulspinweave.com Florida SERENDIPITY FARM & STUDIO Leesburg (757) 651-2632 serendipityfarmstudio@gmail.com Illinois FINE LINE CREATIVE ARTS CENTER St. Charles (630) 584-9443 www.fineline.org info@fineline.org Indiana THE WEAVERS LOFT Guilford (812) 576-3904 weaving@nalu.net www.weaversloft.com Kansas THE YARN BARN Lawrence (800) 468-0035 yarnbarn@sunflower.com Kentucky THE WOOLERY Frankfort tel: (502) 352-9800 fax (502) 352-9802 http://www.woolery.com info@woolery.com Louisiana WEAVIN' PLACE Folsom (985) 796-8048 www.weavinplace.com cheryl@weavinplace.com Maine HALCYON YARN Bath (207) 442-7909 (800) 341-0282 www.halcyonyarn.com PORTLAND FIBER GALLERY &…

In our last issue, we published a letter from Deb Chandler asking readers to submit the ways in which they have modified their weaving practices to reflect changing physical needs. This is the first letter we received in response. If you would like to share your tips and experiences, send them to handwoven@longthreadmedia.com Thank you for the smile and tips that you provided in the January/February 2022 issue. I am new to weaving—only four years now. I hadn’t thought about the need to adjust weaving to my body until recently, after I had major foot surgery in April 2021. Before the surgery, I figured that after a few months, I’d be back to weaving on my four-shaft and eight-shaft Leclerc looms, but pain and a longer recovery than anticipated had…

Nature’s Colorways is a collection of essays, making it a pleasure and a challenge to describe in a few simple paragraphs. The book is lovely, filled with bright photographs and charts. It is so attractive that my 11-month-old kept picking it up off the coffee table to look at the intriguing colors inside. It is a work of literature, thoroughly readable and full of all the interesting asides and abstract language that a reader could desire, but it is also instructional. Essays on topics ranging from indigo to lichen to botanical art to mud provide a practical grounding in a variety of dyeing processes and include enough information to try the projects at home. Many of the narratives are accompanied by charts and instructions, transforming the lyrical text into a…

Seeing your work in a juried show is exhilarating. After putting so much time and thought into designing, sampling, weaving, and finishing the piece, you feel not only pride but validation that your efforts were judged worthy of exhibit by an expert. Of course, the alternative can be devastating, especially the first dozen or three dozen times. “You learn to take it in stride,” said doubleweave expert, frequent exhibitor, and occasional juror Jennifer Moore, who also said she still gets rejections after 35 years of entering shows. “Getting rejected is a part of being in the game,” she added. “So much of the decision depends on the focus of the show, the space available in the gallery, and the personal taste of the jurors.” So why risk heartbreak by putting…

STRUCTURE Swedish lace and plain weave. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; two 10-dent heddles; 1 shuttle; 1 pick-up stick. Or 4-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Calico (50% cotton/50% acrylic; 267 yd/100 g; Nako), #1221, Aqua, 275 yd (300 yd for 4-shaft loom). Weft: Calico, #0331 Mint, 151 yd. WARP LENGTH Rigid heddle: 100 ends 99" (2¾ yd) long (allows 9" for take-up, 22" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). 4-shaft loom: 100 ends 3 yd long (allows 9" for takeup, 31" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 10 epi. Weft: 8 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the heddle or reed: 10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 68". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 81/2" × 67" plus 3" fringe.…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 25" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Remix Light (30% nylon/27% cotton/24% acrylic/10% silk/9% linen; 432 yd/3.5 oz; Berroco), #6917 Periwinkle, 435 yd. Weft: Remix Light, #6901 Birch, 290 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Fray Check. WARP LENGTH 290 ends 1½ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 2" for take-up, 24" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 12 epi. Weft: 14 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 242/12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 28". Finished size: (after wetfinishing and hemming) 21" × 21". I spent most of my youth living near the Mount Hood National Forest. I went on many camping trips at Lost Lake and hiked the Hood River Valley. I was inspired watching sunsets where the hills actually turn to purple-blue…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom; 17" weaving width; 18-or 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI; Halcyon), #60 Duck, 235 yd; #74 Birch, 203 yd; #105 Paradise, 180 yd; Bleached White, 120 yd; #15 Navy, 60 yd; #40 Light Yellow, 30 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, #21 Soldier Blue, 435 yd. WARP LENGTH 291 working ends (331 threads total) 2½ yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 5" for takeup, 30" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 18 epi (1 working end/dent in an 18-dent reed or 1-2 working ends/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 163/18" (163/12" in 12-dent reed). Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 55". Finished size: (after wetfinishing) 13½" ×…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 18/3 linen (2,961 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Ice, 1,580 yd; Mint, 860 yd. Weft: 18/3 linen, Ice and Mint, 906 yd each. WARP LENGTH 488 ends 5 yd long (includes 2 floating selvedges; allows 12" for take-up and 36" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 21–22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 205/12" Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 132", about 33" per towel. Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) four towels 18½" × 28½". When my children were young, our family took a long road trip through southern Utah. My husband, who was driving, needed a nap, and the kids needed a break from the…

Divide the number of threads for each fringe into two groups. Twist each group clockwise until it kinks. Bring both groups together and allow them to twist around each other counter-clockwise (or twist in that direction). Secure the ends with an overhand knot. (Use the same method to make a plied cord by attaching one end to a stationary object.) Double (Italian) hemstitching Weave several picks of plain weave (or the basic structure of the piece), ending with the shuttle on the right side if you are right-handed, the left side if you are left-handed. Measure a length of weft four times the warp width, cut, and thread this tail into a blunt tapestry needle. Take the needle under a selected group of warp threads above the fell and bring…

Time is a funny thing. As I was considering what to write, I realized my first issue as editor was May/June 2017. Five years have passed in a blur. I started this job knowing how to weave and loving a magazine called Handwoven. I had experience in tech editing but none (at all) in media. To my credit, I even brought that up in one of the interviews: “You know I won’t know what I’m doing at first, right?” In the beginning, I not only didn’t know what I was doing, I had no idea what the meetings I attended were about. I took notes, typed them up, and stored them in a folder titled “Figuring out this job.” There are days now when I feel like a real editor—but…

Color Selector Pick the perfect palette with the Rainbow Pick, Point and Match Color Selector available from PattieWack Designs. After you’ve chosen the main color for your project, find the closest matching color on the wheel by putting your yarn put-up under the see-through windows. From there, you can turn the inside wheel to find color combinations, including complementary colors, triads, and split complements, that will perfectly suit your original color. How easy is that? pattiewack.com I’d Rather Be Weaving Threading and Sleying Hook Sley and thread with a smile! When you have your hands full with something else, do you think to yourself, “I’d rather be weaving”? This brass threading and sleying hook is the perfect choice for both multishaft and rigid-heddle looms. The large hook on one end…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 9" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 10/2 pearl cotton (4,200 yd/lb; UKI; Yarn Barn of Kansas), #11 Tangerine and #12 Red, 255 yd each; #37 Bali and #125 Pacific Blue, 252 yd each. Weft: 10/2 pearl cotton, #24 Garnet, 617 yd. Note: #24 Garnet is discontinued. Use #17 Wine or #32 Lipstick as a substitute. WARP LENGTH 338 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 30" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 40 epi (4/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 34 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 86/10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 69". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 71/2" × 60" plus 3" fringe on one end and 4" fringe on the…

STRUCTURE Plain weave. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; 7.5-dent heddle; 2 shuttles. YARNS Warp: Candyland (80% wool/20% polyamide; 137 yd/50 g; Trendsetter), #2916 Peonies, 966 yd. Weft: Poet Mohair (75% mohair/25% silk; 460 yd/50 g; Trendsetter), #21 Blueberry Pie, 976 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Coordinating ⅝" grosgrain ribbon, 10"; liquid fabric softener or hair conditioner. WARP LENGTH Side Panels: 72 ends 3 yd long (allows 6" for take-up, 18" for loom waste). Center Back Panel: 58 ends 1¾ yd long (allows 4" for take-up, 18" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 7.5 epi. Weft: 9 ppi. DIMENSIONS Side Panels (make 4) Width in the heddle: 9.5". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 84". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 8½" × 75". Center Back Panel Width in the heddle: 7.6". Woven…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 24" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Santolina (70% cotton/20% rayon from bamboo/10% hemp; 328 yd/100 g; Purl Soho), Purple Moor, 900 yd. Weft: Santolina, Ice Pond, 624 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Sandhill Sling pattern from Noodlehead; sewing thread; denim or heavyweight sewing machine needle; waxed cotton cord; 11/4 yd fusible woven interfacing; ⅝ yd lining fabric; 18" and 10" handbag zippers; 1" D-ring; 11/2" strap slider; 11/2" swivel snap; 11/2" cotton webbing, 11/2 yd, or optional inkle band. Note: A hardware package is available from Noodlehead. WARP LENGTH 360 ends 21/2 yd long (allows 5" for take-up, 35" for loom waste; includes about 5" extra woven fabric). SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 17 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 25" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 Tencel (100% lyocell; 3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #T5229 Vieil Or and #T8027 Coquille, 1,008 yd each. 8/2 pearl cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #100 Naturel, 14 yd. Note: Lynn used doubled pearl cotton for her floating selvedges because it is stronger than Tencel. The cotton doesn’t shrink when wet-finished and blends well with Tencel. Weft: 8/2 Tencel, #T8999 Noir, 528 yd; #T8024 Brun, 520 yd; #T5229 Vieil Or, 15 yd; #T8027 Coquille, 6 yd. WARP LENGTH 580 ends 3½ yd long (includes doubled floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 27" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 24 epi (2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the…

Enthusiasm leaves no room for hesitation; the project is filled with the promise of pushing my weaving horizon into unexplored land. Out comes my warping board, and away we go! Joyful music is playing in my head as I measure out the warp, beam the loom, and start threading. The music abruptly stops when I’m in the middle of threading. I have a sickening realization: There aren’t enough warp ends for the threading draft. My warp has brown, white, and black sections, and somehow I’m missing multiple warp ends in six of the sections. I’ve added warp ends before, but now I need so many. My mood darkens. No matter how I try, I can’t get good tension in these warp newcomers. I start out with my usual weighted film…

MAY/JUNE 2022 Plain and Fancy Twills Some twills are so simple they can feel almost ordinary—until you realize that all those little floats add texture, drape, stretch, and lots of design opportunities. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the fancy twills that have all those same characteristics, while looking anything but simple. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2022 Cut and Sew We know it’s scary, but some-times you need to bite the bullet, cut that handwoven fabric, and do some stitching. This issue will be all about weaving and using handwoven cloth for creating garments, bags, belts, pillows, and anything else you can think of that is even more special when made with fabric from your loom. NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2022 Exploring the Ifs Many aspects of weaving are clear-cut, but there is still…

To say I was looking forward to Arianna Funk and Miriam Parkman’s English translation of their first book Att väva is an understatement. Having worked with Funk and Parkman on Handwoven ventures, I knew both women to be astoundingly talented weavers with keen eyes for color, pattern, and texture. Having read their short-form projects and articles, I could not wait to see what they could do with a much larger word and page count. I’m happy to say that the result, To Weave—The Swedish Way: New Techniques and Modern Projects, exceeded my lofty expectations. The first chapter, simply titled “To Start,” provides the basics of weaving: tools, looms, warping, yarns, etc. As with other Swedish weaving books, To Weave gives instructions for countermarch looms and warping reels, which many American…

STRUCTURE Summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 8-or 12-dent reed; at least 1 shuttle; 4 bobbins. YARNS Warp: Beam 3/2 Organic Cotton (1,260 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Licorice, 381 yd; Mallo Cotton Slub (1,500 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Frost, 306 yd; Duet (55% linen/45% cotton; 2,390 yd/lb; Gist Yarn), Dune, 299 yd. Weft: Beam 3/2 Organic Cotton, Licorice, 214 yd. Mallo Cotton Slub, Frost, 272 yd. Duet, Dune, 214 yd. 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #913 Beige, 112 yd. WARP LENGTH 303 ends 3¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up, 21" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed or 1-1-2/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: about 16 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 19". Woven length: (measured under tension on…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 19" weaving width; 10-or 15-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Embroidery & Crochet Cotton (100% cotton; 160 m [175 yd]/20 g; Durable), #1007 green, 504 yd; #1013 blue, 501 yd; #1027 pink, 507 yd. Weft: Embroidery & Crochet Cotton, #1052 dark blue, 1,103 yd; #1027 pink, 6 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Vinegar. WARP LENGTH 465 ends 3¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 8" for take-up and 29" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 25 epi (3-2 in a 10-dent reed or 1-2-2 in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 22 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width on the loom: 187/10" (10-dent reed) or 1810/15" (15-dent reed). Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 80". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 15½" × 71" plus 7" fringe. When thinking…

STRUCTURE Twill. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 21" weaving width; 8-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; UKI Supreme), #128 Quince, #95 Mineral, and #48 Dark Turquoise, 82 yd each; #46 Champagne, #110 Teal, #107 Melon, and #92 Mint, 80 yd each. 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #7382 Madder Brown, 76 yd. Weft: 3/2 pearl cotton (Valley Yarns), #7382 Madder Brown, 269 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES Coordinating fabric to be used for the bottom, handle, and lining; coordinating sewing thread; sewing thread in a coordinating multicolor palette (optional); fusible midweight interfacing. WARP LENGTH 321 ends 2 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 10" for take-up, 27" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 16 epi (2/dent in an 8-dent reed). Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS…

Berroco, (401) 769-1212, berroco.com (Ellsworth 50–52). Brassard, Maurice, et Fils, (819) 362-2408, mbrassard.com (Battle 64–66, Jablonski 36–38). Durable, durableyarn.com (Goudsmit 46–49). Gist Yarn, (617) 390-6835, gistyarn.com (Allen 69–71, Jablonski 36–38). Halcyon Yarn, (800) 341-0282, halcyonyarn.com (Miller 56–58, Williams 60–62). Lunatic Fringe Yarns, (800) 483-8749, lunaticfringeyarns.com (Kovnat 72–74). Purl Soho, (800) 597-7875, purlsoho.com (Simmons 53–55). Trendsetter, Trendsetter Yarns, (800) 446-2425, trendsetteryarns.com (Jarchow 42–44). WEBS, (800) 367-9327, yarn.com (Miller 56–58, Peck 39–41). Yarn Barn of Kansas, (800) 468-0035, yarnbarn-ks.com (Lloyd 32–34).…