Tabla de contenidos para March/April 2021 en Handwoven

This past summer during the pandemic, my husband and I spent three nights in a hotel while our house was being tented for termites. During our stay, we saw very few people other than the hotel employees. We ate in the room, calling down to order food and then bringing it back up. Picking up our food one night, we were invited to sit in the virtually empty restaurant. As we were eating our meal out of to-go boxes and drinking wine from plastic cups, I mentioned to my husband that I was afraid we were going to forget. Time would pass and we would no longer remember what living through the pandemic was like. After all, we raised a son, and I am hard-pressed to remember changing his diapers…

STRUCTURE Rep weave. EQUIPMENT 4- or 8-shaft loom, 26" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 boat shuttle (for thin weft); 1 rag shuttle (for thick weft). YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Valley Yarns; WEBS), #8176 Natural, 2,336 yd; #7327 Tobacco, 264 yd; #7198 Burnt Sienna, 528 yd; #1205 Banana, 504 yd; #4146 Sunshine, 480 yd; #4425 Orange, 368 yd; #5597 Mosstone and #5604 Willow Green, 216 yd each. Weft: Thick weft: mop cord (112 yd/lb; Great Northern Weaving), natural, 229 yd. Thin weft: #10 crochet cotton (350 yd/2.8 oz; Aunt Lydia’s; Michaels), #420 Cream, 310 yd. WARP LENGTH 1,228 ends 4 yd long (allows about 27" for take-up and 31" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 48 epi (4/dent in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 8 ppi (about 4 thick and 4…

STRUCTURE Summer and winter. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 4–5 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #100 Naturel, 268 yd; #83 Noir, 88 yd; #415 Light Grey, 272 yd. Weft: Tabby: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, #415 Light Grey, 230 yd (for both towels). Pattern: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, Anni towel: #5212 Honey, 96 yd; #100 Naturel and #83 Noir, 8 yd each. Gunta towel: #4616 Peacock Blue, 88 yd; #1316 Rouille, #100 Naturel, and #83 Noir, 8 yd each. Hems: sewing thread, light gray, 16 yd. OTHER SUPPLIES White glue or Fray Check; twill tape (optional for hanging tabs). WARP LENGTH 314 ends 2 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up, 22" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent…

STRUCTURE Overshot. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 13"–16" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 22/2 Nialin (60% cotton, 40% linen; 1,640 yd/250 g; Bockens; Eugene Textile Center), #2002 Unbleached, 1,376 (1,481, 1,586, 1,691) yd. Weft: Tabby: 22/2 Nialin, #2002 Unbleached, 827 (890, 953, 1,016) yd. Pattern: 22/2 Nialin (60% cotton/40% linen; 1,800 yd/250 g; Bockens; Eugene Textile Center), #2046 Medium Golden Brown, 762 (820, 878, 936) yd. Note: Yardages are listed for each vest size (see Figure 2). OTHER SUPPLIES Sewing machine and sewing supplies; one large button; ½" twill tape, beige, 2 yd. WARP LENGTH 262 (282, 302, 322) ends 5¼ yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 9" for take-up, 32" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 20 ppi in…

ARIZONA Fiber Creek Suite 123, 1046 Willow Creek Rd Prescott, AZ 86301 (928) 717-1774 fibercreekprescott.com Tempe Yarn & Fiber 1415 E University Dr Tempe, AZ 85281 (480) 557-9166 tempeyarn.com The Spinster 624 E Beale St Kingman, AZ 86401 (928) 753-3660 spinsterinkingman.com ARKANSAS Red Scottie Fibers 51 Eureka Springs St Eureka Springs, AR 72931 (479) 253-0711 redscottiefibers.com CALIFORNIA Cardigans Yarn and Fiber 3030 State St Santa Barbara, CA 93105 (805) 569-0531 cardigansyarnandfiber.com Dharma Trading Co 1604 4th Street San Rafael, CA 94901 (435) 456–1211 dharmatrading.com Hands On Knitting Center 912 New York Street, Suite A Redlands, CA 92374 (909) 793-8712 www.handsonknittingcenter.com/ COLORADO Lambspun of Colorado 1101 E Lincoln Ave Fort Collins, CO 80524 (800) 558-5262 lambspun.com Serendipity Yarn & Gifts PO Box 5120 Buena Vista, CO 81211 (719) 395-3110 serendipityyarn.com Shuttles,…

I’ve been a subscriber to Handwoven since it started and look forward to each new issue. I recently saw your call for submissions for the weaving-details–themed issue (September/October 2021). I realize I am way past the deadline for submission but thought you might like to see pictures of my project anyway, just for fun. The project was 37 years in the making. The inspiration for it came from the cover photo of the May 1982 issue of Handwoven. I always wanted to make something similar. About 10 years ago, a friend of my son-in-law wanted some video of someone weaving, and I was asked to help. I quickly warped my loom for a runner with carpet warp from my stash. The filming was done, the weaving completed, and the project…

Exploring Woven Fabrics Janet Phillips Ever since it came out in 2008, one of my favorite weaving books has been Designing Woven Fabrics by Janet Phillips, and now I am happy to add her most recent book, Exploring Woven Fabrics, to my collection. Weavers interested in pushing their understanding of weave structures, block weaves, and color-and-weave effects will find plenty to ponder and learn in this beautifully laid out and photographed book. To truly benefit from this book, you need to be open to sampling and using samples to plan projects. As Phillips states in her preface, “A minor change can make a big difference.” She doesn’t shirk from sampling; indeed she embraces it in sample gamp blankets, seven in all, that run the gamut from four-shaft color-and-weave twill to…

Teaching John C. Campbell Folk School weaving classes is usually a routine experience. I generally work with 10 beginning students at a time, teaching them to navigate around a loom in the weaving studio. I introduce them to a warping board, show them the parts of the loom, and then I get them weaving, working on a project they can take home. Thanks to COVID-19, however, my job changed, at least temporarily. Although the Folk School was officially closed until May 2021, the school received a grant that allowed a small number of students and teachers on campus for weeklong classes. We created the Traditional Craft Mentorship Program to support emerging artists in traditional Appalachian craft through mentorship, relationship building, and studio time, with the ultimate goal of preserving and…

STRUCTURE Krokbragd. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom with 2 heddle slots, 5" weaving width; 10-dent and 5-dent heddles; 3 stick shuttles; 1 boat or stick shuttle. YARNS Warp: 8/2 cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #5981 Navy, 95 yd. Weft: 8/2 cotton, #5981 Navy, 25 yd. Arbor (100% Targhee wool; 145 yd/50 g; Brooklyn Tweed), Klimt, Butte, and Lovat, 38 yd each. OTHER SUPPLIES Fray Check. WARP LENGTH 53 ends 13/4 yd (63") long (allows 1" for take-up, 36" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 10 epi (1/slot and 1/hole in a 10-dent heddle). Weft: 40 ppi for pattern; 20 ppi for hem. DIMENSIONS Width in the heddle: 51 ⁄ 10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 26" (with hems). Finished size: (after wet-finishing) four coasters, 4½" × 4½" each. Notes on…

STRUCTURE Shadow weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 15" weaving width; 15-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 3 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI; Camilla Valley Farm), #48 Dark Turquoise, 216 yd; #55 Jade, 135 yd; #149 Burnt Orange, 156 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, #55 Jade and #62 Moss Green, 145 yd each. Similar color 10/2 or 8/2 cotton for hems, about 50 yd. WARP LENGTH 225 ends 2¼ yd long (allows 5" for take-up, 28" for loom waste). For each additional runner add 1½ yd. SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 15 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 48". Finished size: (after wet-finishing and hemming) 13" × 45". In preparation for the Eugene Weavers’ Guild 75th…

STRUCTURE Plain weave with weft floats. EQUIPMENT Rigid-heddle loom, 10" weaving width; one 12- or 12.5-dent heddle; 1 shuttle; 3 pick-up sticks (1 for pick-up, 1 for the heddle rod, and 1 to clear sheds [a strong 10" dowel can also serve as a heddle rod]); strong thread such as 10/2 pearl cotton or 8/4 carpet warp for string heddles, 13 yd; painter’s tape or 4-shaft loom, 10" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: Phoenix DK Prints (100% Egyptian cotton; 251 yd/100 g; Ella Rae/WEBS), Tutti Fruti, 275 yd (300 yd for 4-shaft loom). Weft: Hempathy (41% cotton/34% hemp/25% modal; 153 yd/50 g; Elsebeth Lavold/WEBS), Ionic Sky, 153 yd. WARP LENGTH Rigid-heddle loom: 100 ends 2¾ yd (99") long (allows 6" for take-up and 19" for loom waste;…

STRUCTURE Leno. EQUIPMENT 6-shaft rising-shed loom, 20" weaving width; 12-dent reed; 1 shuttle; 1 bobbin. YARNS Warp: 20/2 cotton (100% cotton; 8,400 yd/lb; R&M Yarns), Natural, 900 yd. Mallo (100% cotton; 1,500 yd/lb; GIST Yarn and Fiber), Natural, 150 yd. Weft: Mallo, Natural, 325 yd OTHER SUPPLIES Braided nylon fishing line, 60 yd; block of wood (2" × 4" or similar size) 8" long; 2 finishing nails; 2 dowels 24" long; 2 lengths of elastic band or tubing 2 yd each (Deanna used latex medical tubing). WARP LENGTH 280 ends 3¾ yd long (allows 9" for take-up, 37" for loom waste). SETTS Warp: 14 epi (0/2/0/2/0/2/2/0/1/2/2/1 in a 12-dent reed). Weft: 6 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 1911⁄12". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 89". Finished size:…

In Sweden, from the 1940s through the 1960s, design was regarded as important and something for everyone to take part in. The concept of folkhemmet, or the people’s home, strove to erase poverty in housing, raising standards of living without regard to class. Possibly the most famous example of this is the pattern Virrvarr, designed in 1958 by the royal prince himself, Sigvard Bernadotte. It consisted of a simple white background with a net of thin, diagonal gray lines on top, looking as if they were freshly drawn with a sharp lead pencil. Placed on countertops and affordable kitchen tables, it became iconic for the era and is still found in many homes today, including my own. When I think about mid-century modern, I think about this simplicity. Design created…

The weaving community lost a dear friend last October with the passing of Janet Meany. Janet was an accomplished weaver, artist, teacher, and writer who coauthored The Rag Rug Handbook and founded The Weaver’s Friend, a periodic newsletter for rag rug weavers. She taught weaving at the University of Minnesota–Duluth and at workshops throughout the country. Her weavings have been exhibited at national and international venues and are featured in many textile collections. Over the years, she assembled a library of loom instruction manuals along with histories of looms and their makers, an invaluable reference that is now the Janet Meany Collection of the Textile Center in Minneapolis, Minnesota. Janet made her home on the shore of Lake Superior after earning a master’s degree in fine arts. The Scandinavian style…

STRUCTURE Overshot. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 16" weaving width; 10-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 8/2 unmercerized cotton (3,360 yd/lb; Maurice Brassard), #1315 Orange Pâle, 408 yd; #4616 Peacock, 140 yd. Weft: Tabby: 8/2 unmercerized cotton, #1315 Orange Pâle, 238 yd. Pattern: 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; UKI), #11 Tangerine, 232 yd. WARP LENGTH 313 ends 1¾ yd long (includes 2 floating selvedges; allows 6" for take-up, 27" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Wefts: 32 ppi (16 ppi each, pattern and tabby). DIMENSIONS Width in reed: 158⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 30". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 13¼" × 26" with 1" fringe. As a baby boomer, mid-century modern isn’t a retro fad for…

STRUCTURE Bateman park weave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 1 shuttle. YARNS Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb; UKI), #115 Peach, #152 Pistachio, and #43 Beige, 252 yd each; #103 Peacock, 381 yd. Weft: 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; UKI), #02 Natural, 336 yd. WARP LENGTH 379 ends 3 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 5" for take-up, about 55" for sampling and loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). Note: There is ample warp for weaving a longer runner if desired. SETTS Warp: 20 epi (2/dent in a 10-dent reed). Weft: 12 ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 191⁄10". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 48". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 16½" × 45" with 2" fringe. This park-weave runner is a good introduction to Bateman weaves—three blocks…

STRUCTURE Doubleweave. EQUIPMENT 8-shaft loom; 10" weaving width; 20-dent reed; 2 shuttles; 2 bobbins. YARNS Warp: 20/2 pearl cotton (8,400 yd/lb; Lunatic Fringe Yarns), Middle Gray, 732 yd; Tangerine and Gold, 720 yd each. Cotton quilting thread (8,450 yd/lb; Coats and Clark; Jo-Ann), Pastels (variegated), 2,160 yd. Weft: 20/2 pearl cotton, Coral, 1,622 yd; Middle Gray, 1,626 yd. WARP LENGTH 722 ends 6 yd long (includes floating selvedges; allows 15" for take-up, 53" for loom waste; loom waste includes interstitial and end fringe). SETTS Warp: 80 epi (4/dent in a 20-dent reed). Weft: 80 ppi (40 ppi top and 40 ppi bottom). DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 92⁄20". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 148". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) two scarves, each 8¾" × 68" with 4"…

STRUCTURE Bronson lace. EQUIPMENT 4-shaft loom, 20" weaving width; 15-dent reed; two 20" stick shuttles. YARNS Warp: 3/2 pearl cotton (1,260 yd/lb; UKI), #95 Mineral, 363 yd; #103 Peacock, 360 yd. Weft: 3/2 pearl cotton #95 Mineral, 273 yd; #103 Peacock, 170 yd. WARP LENGTH 289 ends 2½ yd long (allows 6" for take-up, 30" for loom waste; loom waste includes fringe). SETTS Warp: 15 epi (1/dent in a 15-dent reed). Weft: 13½ ppi. DIMENSIONS Width in the reed: 194⁄15". Woven length: (measured under tension on the loom) 54". Finished size: (after wet-finishing) 16¾" × 49" with 2½" fringe. Last year, Linda Ligon made me aware of a method for coaxing five shafts from a four-shaft loom using unheddled ends, described originally in the Summer 1979 issue of Interweave. Like…