Tabla de contenidos para No 29-2 en Australian Stitches

When the weather heats up, who has the time or energy to fuss about with separates? The dress is definitely the easiest answer – you’re dressed in a flash with a minimum of fuss, but ‘easy’ doesn’t have to mean uninteresting, or that it’s just for the most casual moments. In fact, another benefit of this one-item wonder is its versatility. It can be as casual or as dressed as you want it to be, and can work just as easily for day or night … and because you can sew, finding just the right ones for you are a cinch! But, how do you narrow down the options to do just that? A great place to start would be to look at what’s happening with dresses this spring and…

When dresses move into the evening, they go in two distinctly different directions this season. On these two pages, we show a more classical turn, in long, lean but fluid shapes with a graceful ease at the hem ... the modern difference is that there’s nothing complicated or fussy about the line or detailing – silks, satins and even jerseys smoothly glide over the body, with no surface decoration whatsoever. Detailing now becomes an integral part of the garment as opposed to something that’s added on, such as in an interesting neckline or a saucy bow tied at the back, as in New Look’s ruby red satin knockout above. All the ornamentation you need is in the colour or the cut; David Tutera’s show-stopping waterfall of cascading tiers from a…

1183 ‘AMAZING FIT’ CORSET TOP: Corset in two styles, both with lace up backs. Features include 1/4in steel boning, over-bust boning and under-bust stay, for better fit and to keep the shape. Pattern includes separate pattern pieces for B, C, D and DD cup sizes for both miss and plus sizes. For broadcloth, brocade, chambray, chintz, damask, dupioni, shantung, eyelet, linen types, poplin, sateen, satin or taffeta, with overlay in lace. Misses’/ Women’s sizes: 10 – 18/20W – 28W. www.simplicity.com…

As we age our middle tends to expand to the point that our profile is just plain, and devoid of any shape. Here is a way to cheat the 'design eye' so that we look like we still have something of a feminine curve. Choose a flattering colour or print for the centre panel (that is the one that everybody will be looking at), and a darker colour (such as black, navy or charcoal) for the side panels, to act as a frame for the centre feature; this will bring the whole look together. 1. Start with a perfectly plain shift that fits you well, featuring separate bust and waist darts. Draw in Waist and Hip lines for reference. See diagram 1. 2. Place a dot, in from side seam,…

During a Colour and Image class, we discuss some of the many things that influence the choice of fabric and pattern styles to suit the individual. Some of the things are: • Colour – either cool blue base or warm yellow base • Face shape • Body shape • Personal Style • Yin and Yang • Climate • Lifestyle • Budget • Feel and finish of fabrics • Fit of garments YIN and YANG, you may ask? Knowing the differences of Yin and Yang can change your sewing success. Basically YIN is curved and feminine and YANG is angular and natural. In my consultations each client learns about your face shape. There are 5 curved face shapes: Heart, Round, Oblong, Pear and Oval. These are Yin shape. Curved things like…

THE SEASON’S CHAMPAGNE OF SHAPES – FITTED ON TOP, FULL AND FLIRTY SKIRTED – ISAAC MIZRAHI NEW YORK V1434: Lined dress has close-fitting bodice with princess seams, pleated skirt (guide), side pockets, back zipper and thread loops for self-belt. For faille, shantung, satin or poplin. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. Man’s Tuxedo suit: V9097. Men’s sizes: 34 – 46. www.voguepatterns.com…

This dress (Kwik•Sew K3521) is quick and simple to make and the fit is very flattering on a variety of figure types. Trace out the pattern, making sure to mark in the correct seam allowances around all of the edges. See photo 1. Trace off the seam allowances for both the front and back armholes. See photo 2. This may seem odd but we need to use these pieces to establish a sleeve that will fit directly into the armhole without much fuss. Measure the stitching line of both the front and the back armholes and make a note of these. See photo 3. The front armhole is usually a little deeper than the back but with sleeveless garments the pattern may have had the front armhole tightened to prevent…

THE BRIGHT MAXI EASILY MOVES FROM DAY TO NIGHT WITH A QUICK CHANGE OF ACCESSORIES – 6372 ‘EASY’: Day or cocktail dress in either short or maxi-length, as shown here (maxi-length with back slit) and with two neckline variations; shown here with purchased chain trim (also could be self-fabric tie), while the other option has a neckband and keyhole trim. Sew in batiks, charmeuse, cotton lawn, cotton types, crepe, crepe de chine, lightweight linen types, silky types or voile. Misses’ seven sizes in one: 6 – 18. New Look patterns at www.simplicity.com…

Considered the father of haute couture, an Englishman named Charles Frederick Worth moved to Paris in the early 1850s and began working as a sales assistant at the famous Parisian fabric store, Gagelin-Opigez et Cie. At the time, Gagelin-Opigez et Cie was similar to today’s fabric stores. The customer would select the fabric, make it herself, or take it to her dressmaker, and give her instructions for making the dress she wanted. Worth persuaded his employers to allow him to open a new and revolutionary department with a few dressmakers. By combining his extensive knowledge of fabrics and garment construction with a talent for promotion, Worth soon developed a flourishing department, establishing himself as the only male dressmaker in Paris. Worth executed each of his original designs in several Gagelin…

1. Tissue fit patterns before cutting into your silk. 2. Even silks that you plan to dry clean, after construction can benefit from pre-washing, before construction. Pre-washing eliminates permanent spotting from rain or grape juice. 3. Silk Dupion can be washed if pre-shrunk before construction (see instructions below). 4. DO NOT wash Raw Silk or Tussah Silk. 5. Wash finished garments often, while only slightly soiled, so that you can use very mild detergent and gentle hand washing. Also moths don’t attack clean silk. 6. Straighten fabric ends by pulling a thread and cutting off the uneven end. 7. ‘Grain up’ silk on a gridded cardboard cutting table or fold out cutting board. 8. Use fine, glass headed silk pins to anchor silk and pattern pieces to the cardboard. 9.…

Whether you should use a machine blind-hemming foot and stitch is totally dependent on the type of fabric that you are trying to hem. Fabrics such as linen, wools, those that have an open slubby type of weave and almost all knits will blind-hem beautifully. Fabrics that have a fine close weave are better either hemmed by hand or with a machine topstitched hem that can become a feature. There are two types of blind-hem feet, one is preset and one is adjustable. Which one you have will depend on the make and model of your machine. See photos 1 and 2. These feet were designed to machine-sew a blind hem, saving you the time and trouble of hand-sewing. The success or failure of a blind hem is also related…

B6206: Pullover dress and tie-belt has hem, neckband and close-fitting bodice variations, elasticised waist and narrow hem. Designed for lightweight moderate stretch knits such as jersey. Misses’/Misses’ Petite sizes: 6 – 22. B6208: Loose-fitting, pullover dress (also at tunic length) has neck and front bands, tucks, button/bias self-loops, extension, back yoke with forward shoulder seams, narrow hem, three sleeve options and guide for tucks. Also with optional back casing and belt. Designed for lightweight woven fabrics, such as georgette, challis, faille, linen, chambray. Misses’ sizes: 6 – 22. www.butterick.com…