Wallpaper March 2021의 목차

Offering the freedom to illuminate wherever and whenever you need, portable lamps are an invaluable solution when plug sockets are not available or inconveniently located, as they can be shifted from bedside to deskside with impeccable ease. A trio of designs are currently lighting up our lives. Conceived by Jordi Garcés and Enric Sòria in 1974 to emulate an oil lamp, the ‘Sylvestrina’ has been given new life by Santa & Cole as a more contemporary LED version. Meanwhile, Vincent Van Duysen’s ‘Oblique’ lamp for Flos, which echoes the traditional task light, comes in a range of colours, and features a wide beam and a 355-degree rotating stem, allowing it to cast optimal light wherever you need it. Philippe Malouin continues his collaboration with Matter Made with the ‘Arca Portable’,…

A creative response to crisis doesn’t just have to be practical – it can also be escapist and fanciful. Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Spanish luxury fashion house Loewe, was inspired by the idea of delight and fantasy in design. His S/S21 men’s and women’s collections abounded with voluminous shapes, exuberant adornments and artisanal techniques, such as capes cut like circles, dresses exploding with ruffles, and trousers that ballooned around the body. The menswear offering of the Madrid-based brand, whose rich heritage is rooted in leather craftsmanship, included two leather tops, basket-woven by Galicia-based textile artist Idoia Cuesta, who had also created a series of fringed and knotted bags and vessels for the brand’s ‘Loewe Baskets’ exhibition at Milan Design Week 2019 (see W*242). The label’s annual showcase is used…

To subscribe, visit wallpaper.com/sub21 A Wallpaper* subscription ensures: * Collectable, artist-designed covers * 12 issues a year for £100/$140/€180 * Delivery every month Our limited-edition covers, available only to subscribers, are created by a leading artist, designer or architect each month. Past contributors range from Jony Ive to Jenny Holzer, Yayoi Kusama to Tom Sachs, Isaac Julien to Karl Lagerfeld. See just a few of our favourites here, and subscribe for many more unique artworks to come. Offer closes 31 October 2021. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms…

When it comes to articulating ideas of identity, the fashion world has traditionally drawn from external and historical sources to create evocative visions. As well as that may be, a new wave of young, emerging designers are instead looking inwards and expressing their sense of self in ways rarely seen before. In Johannesburg, designer Thebe Magugu has used his collections to preserve and share South African culture. In London, British designer Supriya Lele mines her Indian heritage to create universally flattering silhouettes, while the rising label Chopova Lowena seeks out Bulgarian deadstock fabrics to create its signature folkloric skirts. Drawing on their individual heritage to champion diversity, these designers widen the fashion lens in ways worth applauding. SUPRIYA LELE LONDON As distinct as traditional Indian dressing and 1990s minimalism may…

Richard Rogers’ best known early work is arguably the Centre Pompidou in Paris, completed in 1977 with Renzo Piano. In the same year, the architect founded the Richard Rogers Partnership in London, which evolved into Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners (RSHP) in 2007. Now the practice has 11 partners and has just launched a new office in Paris – marking Rogers’ retirement by returning, in a way, to where it all began. ‘We currently have a range of exciting new projects in progress there, in a range of typologies at a wide range of scales,’ says RSHP partner responsible for France, Stephen Barrett. ‘Prompted by Brexit and the regrettable drawing up of once permeable boundaries that it implies, we are finally taking the plunge in setting up a Paris office,…

Models: Honor Freeman at Elite London, Alexandra at Tomorrow Is Another Day Casting: Jasmin Islamovic Hair: Teiji Utsumi at Bryant Artists using Bumble and Bumble Make-up: Kristina Ralph Andrews at Future Rep Photography assistant: Nathan Perkins Digi tech: Laura Heckford Make-up assistant: Eoin Whelan Hair assistant: Masaki Ueda Post-production: Ink…

A A1043 a1043.com Aeyde aeyde.com B Balenciaga balenciaga.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Burberry burberry.com Byredo byredo.com C Celine celine.com Chanel chanel.com Chopova Lowena chopovalowena.com D Dior dior.com E Emporio Armani armani.com Eres eresparis.com F Falke falke.com Fendi fendi.com Flos flos.com G Giorgio Armani armani.com Givenchy givenchy.com Gucci gucci.com H Hermès hermes.com J Jil Sander jilsander.com K Kassl Editions kassleditions.com L Lanvin lanvin.com Lashify lashify.com Lindberg lindberg.com Loewe loewe.com Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com M Matter Made mattermatters.com Miu Miu miumiu.com O Ole & Steen oleandsteen.co.uk P Paco Rabanne pacorabanne.com Pantherella pantherella.com Prada prada.com S Saint Laurent ysl.com Salvatore Ferragamo ferragamo.com Santa & Cole santacole.com Serax serax.com Simone Rocha simonerocha.com Sophie Bille Brahe sophiebillebrahe.com Sportmax sportmax.com Supriya Lele supriyalele.com T Thebe Magugu at Matchesfashion matchesfashion.com Tom Ford tomford.com V Valentino valentino.com W Wolford wolfordshop.co.uk…

Welcome to The Style Issue, which showcases the best of the S/S21 collections, the first to have been conceived, shown and sold against the backdrop of the pandemic. Across leading fashion houses and emerging labels, one thing was clear: with remote working and socialising now de rigueur, there was less penchant for flamboyant gestures, and a renewed emphasis on styles that endure. Our Newspaper section, photographed by Josh David Payne, celebrates this new minimalism. We highlight pared-back pieces that nonetheless captivate with their sculptural forms and tactile materials – including a pair of calfskin and beechwood clogs from Hermès (our newsstand cover star), and a Ferragamo trench coat that pays homage to Hitchcock’s heroines. Both convey a laid-back yet luxurious mood that is echoed in our main menswear story, photographed…

Given the ongoing directives to mask up, launching an extensive lipstick collection might seem an unexpected business choice. Yet it could just as easily be said that the debut of the new Rouge Dior range is perfectly timed, offering, as it does, a bit of colour and an uplifting mode of self-expression for the new year. Dior’s iconic lipstick range, which originally launched in 1953, has been given a modern update for 2021 by Dior Makeup’s creative and image director Peter Philips, who joined the brand in 2014 having previously been at Chanel. The rebooted collection features 75 shades of reds, pinks and nudes, available in four finishes: classic matte, metallic, satin, and the ultra-matte ‘velvet’, all textures inspired by fabrics once used in Dior’s couture collections. The new lipsticks…

Clip-clopping across the catwalks this spring, clogs made a classy appearance at shows by Louis Vuitton, Bally and Molly Goddard, but it was Hermès’ take on the chunky, slip-on silhouette that had real orthopaedic oomph. As high heels are being usurped by footwear that’s versatile enough for both Zoom meetings and moments of relaxation, Hermès creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski set out to prove that shuffling around at home can be chic, teaming every Hermès runway look with a pair of organically-hued beechwood clogs featuring an ‘H’ on the calfskin upper and palladium-finish metal stud details. So, just as yoga, meditation and a cold shower encourage stay-at-home serenity, think of investing in a pair of Hermès’ clogs as self-care for the sole.…

The 1990s have been an endless source of inspiration for designers in recent years, whether it’s been a nod to the grunge, heavy metal or rave scenes, or a lust for the luxury logo. Entering 2021, it has been the decade’s preoccupation with minimalism, driven largely by creatives such as fashion designer Jil Sander and designer John Pawson, that has been ticking style boxes. For spring, menswear adopted a pared-back, precise and uniform-inspired approach to dressing. Prada presented straightforward, unostentatious clothing as a casual antidote to an increasingly complex world. Suits and overcoats were imagined in a trio of charcoal tones, and fastened with a fuss-free row of buttons. When teaming with a smart shirt, be sure to style it sans tie. At Jil Sander, precision was also paramount, and…

Model: Mamadou Lo at Elite Paris. Casting: Svea Casting. Grooming: Rimi Ura at Walter Schupfer using Oribe. Set design: Cédric-Cyril Colonges at Saint Germain. Photography assistant: Tanguy Ginter. Digital operator: Pedro Teles. Fashion assistant: Stephanie Carrié. Set design assistant: Arturo Astorino. Local production: Quadriga Paris…

Welcome to our masterclass in minimalism. Top of our aesthetic agenda? The ultimate womenswear pieces for achieving wardrobe precision. Right now, we are not in need of a plethora of outfits but a capsule offering of hard-working, all-weather hits, in a host of timeless tones. We suggest classic items with a futuristic finesse, pieces rendered in glossy and tactile fabrications. Take Hermès’ apron dress, which is embroidered in a graphic grid of horn and glossy lambskin – adornment with real architectural appeal. Tactility is the essential ambition of the French luxury maison’s womenswear creative director Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, given how dispiritingly hands-off and touch sensitive we have become. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ dual design debut also has minimalist merit, offering a celebration of Prada’s signature nylon, seen in shoes and…

We’re going back to basics with the simplest of all snacks: bread and butter. Whipped to a soft texture, and flavoured with coriander and lime, smoked paprika, and anchovy, this trio of airy butters is ready for spreading on sliced rye bread, which we’re serving, with radishes, in Michael Schoner’s powder-coated aluminium ‘Worm Vorm’ bowls. The Rotterdam-based Schoner trained and practised as an engineer and architect before moving on to designing objects, exploring sleek compositions of metal shapes, from chairs and lamps to the smaller-scale bowls. These pieces are intended to be 3D interpretations of bold drawings, experiments that start with cutting shapes out of cardboard before reproducing them in collaboration with a specialist laser-cutting company. The final steps are made by hand in Schoner’s studio, a ‘low-tech phase’, as…

Coco Chanel revolutionised the way that women wore clothes and accessories, challenging gender stereotypes and assimilating traditionally male embellishments into her pieces. Her ethos lives on at the French fashion house, which continues to blur the gender boundaries in all its lines, including its watches. The ‘Boy.Friend Skeleton’, which Chanel launched in 2015, played with established design codes, translating a typically masculine case into a chic watch for women. Instead of the conventional softened silhouette, a distinctive octagonal shape looked back to the brand’s first foray into watchmaking in 1987, redrawing the lines of the ‘Première’, which were originally inspired by the angled cap of the Chanel No.5 perfume bottle. The ‘Boy.Friend Skeleton’ has now been rethought for a new generation. Nodding to the original, it puts the hypnotic circles…

Emefa Cole is softly spoken but also a mistress of understatement. ‘I don’t like to be boxed in. I am an artist, but I design and I make.’ Her methodology, one which segues from artisanal to modern practices, incorporates deep research, and has garnered her international critical acclaim. Add to this a loyal clientele and a place in the collections of major museums and institutions, and it becomes clear that she is quietly overachieving on numerous fronts. With influences that range from the many ethnic groups across Western Africa that create gold jewellery and objects to jewellery artists such as Giovanni Corvaja, hers is a tale of creating without compromise and trusting the process. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2012, London-based Cole has been on a quest to distil…

A rare bricks-and-mortar retail launch in an era of online shopping, Les Six, located in Tottori Prefecture, in south-west Japan, is the latest brainchild of fashion designer Ryohei Kawanishi. It is housed in twin Taisho-era warehouses: one offers limited-edition menswear items and unisex jewellery, under the Les Six label, and restored Mingei furniture and lighting by Shoya Yoshida, a champion of the folk craft movement; the other features a library stocked with art books and magazines from Kawanishi’s personal collection. It is a concept store harbouring an open workshop, where the designer sometimes invites local grandmothers to choose buttons for a garment. The designer rejects the industrialised term ‘lifestyle’ and instead explains that his new creative hub is grounded in the art of i-shoku-ju, an ancestral Japanese term for ‘wear-live-eat’.…

The most successful S/S21 collections straddle practicality and pizzazz, reflecting the requirements of our new indoor-focused world without forgetting the need for wow factor. The strongest silhouettes of the season are softer, with contours designed for ease and comfort, and just enough drama to encourage domestic daydreaming. The fabrics that we drift off to sleep on were of particular inspiration to Fendi’s creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi, who designed the brand’s S/S21 collection from her home in Rome during Italy’s first lockdown. ‘Lace-embroidered bed linens reminded me of Karl Lagerfeld,’ she says, referencing the designer who worked as creative director at Fendi for 54 years, until his death in 2019. ‘He had a big collection.’ Bedding-inspired elements in the fashion collection include a loose linen shirt delicately appliquéd with silk…

Models: Giulia Rhodes at Kult London, Yasmin Forbes at Crumb Agency Photography assistant: George Eyres…

A groundbreaking conceptualist and educator, American artist Charles Gaines explores how art can conform to systems, and work against them. Employing rules-based processes, he generates grid-like compositions, often involving the structures of trees, faces, music and language. Gaines, who was born in Charleston, South Carolina, attributes his detailed formula for candied yams to his mother, Amelia. ‘It’s traditional Southern-style, but the difference is the use of milk, which is not usual in a Southern yam recipe.’  For Gaines’ recipe, and a full interview with the artist in our At Home With series, visit Wallpaper.com…