Dish Issue 65 April/May 2016의 목차

While the Dish team travelled to Italy only in our imaginations (and with our tastebuds) in the process of creating this issue, we have been lucky enough to meet and be inspired by others who have called Italy home in our annual issue dedicated to the fascinating ingredients and flavours of this Mediterranean country. Deputy Editor Nikki Birrell fell in love with the al dente delights at new Auckland restaurant Pasta and Cuore. An apt response since it was love that drew co-owner and cook Stefania Ugolina to these shores, bringing a life-long passion for pasta-making with her. Australian author Emiko Davies shares recipes from her book, Florentine, as well as insights into the eating habits of locals and the history of dishes enjoyed for centuries in the beautiful Tuscan…

ONLINE RECIPE COLLECTION A visit to our new-look website will ensure you’re never uninspired in the kitchen again. With hundreds of unique recipes as well as favourites from the Dish archives ready to discover, you’ll want to set aside time to rifle through our online recipe collections. You’ll find exclusive recipes from regular columnists Kelly Gibney, Sarah Tuck and Dish Food Editor Claire Aldous, plus recipe extracts from the latest quality cookbooks. Head over to dish.co.nz/recipes @dishmagnz BETWEEN THE LINES Follow Dish on Instagram to see snaps from the magazine as well as behind the scenes and our team’s ventures out and about. Tag us in your creations for a chance to be featured on our page. You’ll find us at @dishmagnz In the know If you’re looking for your…

Biting down on a toothsome pillow of perfectly al dente pasta into a creamy centre of sausage and potato – the sounds of dough slapping on a workbench and Italian banter in the background – it’s easy to imagine you’re sitting in the courtyard of a trattoria on the other side of the world. But instead you’ll find yourself right in the heart of Auckland’s Mt Eden. “Some customers say, ‘I’ve been to Italy and I’ve been looking to have that same feeling as in Italy but it’s never happened until now’,” says joint owner of Pasta and Cuore Stefania Ugolini. “So this is nice for me,” she adds with gratitude. Stefania and her partner, John van Houten, opened up this authentic little slice of Emilia Romagna, the region of…

What is an industrial designer? We are interested in all the parts of the product the customer interacts with. Primarily this covers aesthetics, usability and ergonomics. We are charged with representing the end user throughout the design process, along with creating designs that exemplify our brand. What does a typical day look like for you at Fisher & Paykel? I’m based in our Dunedin Design Centre, where we design our cooking and dishwashing products. Design is a really creative and collaborative process, so a typical day might involve lots of discussions with the Industrial Design team or wider product development team. We might get into the kitchen or be creating designs in CAD, building prototypes or evaluating competitor products. Once a month we get together and craft our own recipes…

Like anybody needed another reason to visit Queenstown. This beautiful show-off of a resort town, with its pristine lake and glorious mountain backdrop, has long been an adrenaline junkie’s playground. But for those who prefer a more gastonomical high, options are in no short supply. And now there’s another award-winning addition in the mix. Bespoke Kitchen, winner of the NZ Café of the Year 2016, is a relative newcomer on the Otago food scene, having opened in the middle of last year. But its owners, Rae Ellis, Michelle Freeman and Chris Vile, are seasoned professionals – the trio also own popular eateries Vudu Café and Vudu Larder in the centre of Queenstown. So why another? “Bespoke grew out of a place to house new innovations and the overflow of our…

PRIME LOCATION By the time you read this, New Zealand winemaker Invivo – creator of UK chat show host Graham Norton’s Own Sauvignon Blanc – will have moved into a historic 114-year-old winery south of Auckland in Te Kauwhata after securing a long-term lease and full control of the winery. The winery was first designed and constructed by the government in 1902 as New Zealand’s first viticulture research station and was originally headed by industry pioneer and viticulturist Romeo Bragato. “It’s exciting to be taking over the place where Romeo Bragato made some of New Zealand’s first export wines,” says Invivo co-founder Tim Lightbourne. “The guy’s a legend. The history of the place and the great stories that have been documented also really appealed to us.” The winery will give…

REGION: UMBRIA Roasted Boned and Stuffed Shoulder of Pork This tender, juicy cut of pork is stuffed with fennel sausage, lots of herbs and chilli for a showstopping main course. 2-kilogram boned and rolled pork shoulder roast, skin on 300 grams pork and fennel sausages, skins removed 2 tablespoons chopped sage 2 tablespoons finely chopped rosemary ¼ cup chopped parsley ½ teaspoon dried chilli flakes 2 cloves garlic cloves, crushed zest 1 lemon olive oil sea salt and ground pepper kitchen string for tying roast Preheat the oven to 240°C fan bake. If the pork is tied, remove the string and open the pork out flat, skin side down. Season generously with salt and pepper. Combine the sausage meat, all the herbs, chilli, garlic and lemon zest in a bowl.…

1 Layered Lasagne with Meatballs I love the combo of pork and fennel with rich tomato, creamy herbs and bechamel sauce, especially with a rich, fruity red such as the Zabu Chiantari Nero D’Avola 2014 ($29). It’s big, bold, berryish with dusty tannins, cocoa and all manner of earthy concentration on the finish and it’s darned lovely with lasagne. For stockists visit federalmerchants.co.nz. 2 Rigatoni with Butternut Squash Butternut has a lovely sweetness, but combine it with salty feta and tangy mustard and you’ve got something that’ll work fantastically well with the classic nashi, ginger, pepper and poached quince characters of the Terra Sancta Mysterious Diggings Bannockburn Pinot Gris 2015 ($22.50). It’s a winning combo. Buy from terrasancta.co.nz. 3 Braised Brisket with Pasta There’s a bucketload of flavour here –…

Walnut Honey Tart with Mascarpone Pastry 120 grams butter, chilled and cubed ½ cup icing sugar pinch of salt 1 ½ cups plain flour ½ cup walnuts 1 tablespoon ice water Filling ½ cup runny honey ½ cup cream 80 grams butter, roughly chopped ¼ cup Galliano, nocino, or amaretto 2 eggs 2 egg yolks seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean 300 grams walnuts To serve 200 grams mascarpone Pastry: Whiz butter, icing sugar, salt, flour and walnuts together to form breadcrumbs. Add water and pulse to form bigger, clumpy breadcrumbs. Tip on to the bench and squash and pat into a round fat disc, wrap in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for 15 minutes. Remove the pastry from the fridge, sit for 5 minutes, then roll out…

1 Rib-eye Steak with Mustard and Parsley Butter Elevate the juiciness of this steak and the oiliness of the butter with some spice, spice and more spice courtesy of the Parusso Dolcetto D’Alba Piani Noce DOC 2013 ($32). The wine has a seriously savoury side. It’s meaty and gripping and it really works with the simplicity of this dish. Pour a decent glass, it’ll take time to open up. For stockist visit vintners.co.nz. 2 Crispy Almond Fish with Capers and Lemon Go for a wine that’s immediately dry and chalky on the nose to counter the piquancy of the capers and lemon, such as the Lagaria Pinot Grigio 2013 ($18). On the palate it has freshly baled hay and clean, lean, lemony flavours to finish. It really works with the…

NOTES FOR COOKS To ensure successful results in cooking, we recommend you invest in accurate measuring tools – measuring cups and spoons and a measuring jug are essential and electronic scales are particularly useful as they weigh accurately in both imperial and metric. Always follow one set of measures in a recipe. Do not mix them up. Dish uses: A fan forced oven unless otherwise specified Large eggs (No.7) Level spoons and cup measurements Liquids are always measured in a jug and dry ingredients in measuring cups. NB: One tablespoon is 15ml (the Australian tablespoon is 20ml) USEFUL INGREDIENT EQUIVALENTS Breadcrumbs 1 cup fresh = 50 grams 1 cup dried = 115 grams Butter 1 (American) stick = 100 grams 1 cup = 225 grams 2 tablespoons = 30 grams…

CAFFÈ TIME Italians love their coffee breaks and so do we, especially when they look this pretty. Gleaming golds and coppers look a treat with blues and whites. Sip, nibble, sigh… TEA-RRIFIC SARAH AND ADAM OF FINE & DANDY LOVE A GOOD BREW. TRAVELLING THROUGH JAPAN AND INDIA GAVE THEM A TASTE OF WHAT CONSTITUTES A PROPER ONE AND THEY DECIDED TO MAKE SURE US KIWIS DIDN’T MISS OUT – SO THEY CAME UP WITH THEIR OWN BRAND OF TEA, FINE & DANDY. IT USES SINGLE ESTATE TEAS, STRAIGHT FROM THE SOURCE AND HAS CERTIFIED FAIRTRADE STATUS. GREAT FOR THE GROWERS BUT WHAT ABOUT OUR PALATES? REFRESHING AND CHARACTERFUL, WITH PLENTY OF FLAVOUR OPTIONS TO COSY UP TO COME TEA TIME. FROM $11.50 FOR 80 GRAMS OF LOOSE LEAF TEA.…

The Pie Project BY PHOEBE WOOD AND KIRSTEN JENKINS Who ate all the pies? We would, given the half the chance, if they’re from this sumptuous cookbook. A collection of 60 sweet pie recipes, the book is divided into four sections: Hot, Cheats’, Hand and Cold, so there’s something to suit any circumstance be it time-wise or seasonal. Pies conjure up comfort and warmth and the authors have tapped into that homely idea but updated it with gorgeous styling and photography, not to mention tantalising contemporary flavour combinations – Baked Ricotta, Orange Blossom and Date Pie; Tamarind and Lime Pie with Salted Cashew Praline; Rhubarb, Rosewater and Spelt Pie; Blueberry and Lavender Pie with Hazelnut Crust; and Fried Apricot and Cardamom Sugar Handpies to name but a few. If you’re…

Garlic, onion & seasonings You won’t get too far in Italian cooking without garlic and onion. They’re essential as a flavour base for countless dishes. A good sea salt and whole black pepper are the seasonings of choice. Dried chilli flakes add kick to Italian dishes and, although fresh is more often than not best, there are some dried herbs which you can keep on hand if you’re fresh out of fresh, namely oregano, rosemary, thyme, sage… Dish Food Editor Claire Aldous says if you can get your hands on some Sicilian oregano, do. Extra virgin olive oil Olive oil is only considered “extra virgin” when it has been produced by a mechanical pressing of the olives without the use of chemicals or other processes to extract the oil and…

When it comes to mouthwatering food, the general consensus is the more you can eat of it, the better. Rose Young’s latest project tips this theory on its head – not only are her tempting creations astonishingly small, they’re purely for show. Details such as the perfect sugar granules on her miniature doughnuts and the lusciously red tomatoes tossed throughout her puttanesca are all crafted from polymer clay and coloured using chalk pastel. Since she started sharing photos of her food on social media under the name Tiny Portions, Rose has found herself inundated with people requesting their very own teeny sculptures. When it comes to pinning down where the appeal lies, Rose is intrigued as to exactly why people love her plates of petite food so much. “I’d really…

Plums have to be one of the most versatile late summer fruits. If you’re lucky enough to have a plum tree, let them ripen on the tree because once picked, the sugar content doesn’t increase. Even so, some varieties are too tart to eat as a piece of fruit and need sweetening to make them palatable. A stack of sour plums calls for action. They poach beautifully and become tender and deeply flavoured without any mouthpuckering tang. For syrup, dissolve 1 cup granulated sugar in 600ml water in a frying pan over low heat. Stir gently once or twice. Don’t let the water boil until the sugar is dissolved, then boil for 2 minutes. For flavour, add a small piece of cinnamon bark or vanilla pod. Cut plums in half…

RATING SYSTEM: GOLD ★★★★★ Superb. Strongly recommended. SILVER ★★★★ A cut above the rest in quality. BRONZE ★★★ A good-quality crowd pleaser. (NB: All beers are judged blind and the scores of judges for their own beers cannot exceed those of other judges.) Look for the Dish Tasting Panel selection sticker, which can be worn by our top beers. With thanks to Janet Blackman and Cameron Douglas from the Professional Wine Studies Department and the AUT School of Hospitality and Tourism. For more on the programmes in hospitality, food and beverage, and hotel management visit www.aut.ac.nz Water kindly supplied by Antipodes.…

Denomination of Origin laws define Italy’s winemaking traditions and regulate every aspect of grape-growing and winemaking, including grape varieties, their processing methods, ageing and bottling. It’s about forming a qualitycontrol system similar to how the French classify their simple to superior wines. Italy’s laws have recently been amended to encourage experimentation with non-traditional grape varieties and techniques and there are now four different quality categories: Vino da Tavola (VDT) – cheap, cheerful table wines that don’t need to state a grape variety or a vintage date. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT) – these wines sit between Vino da Tavola and DOC. The rationale is to slightly elevate a large number of Italy’s better table wines. The wine’s label must declare its specific region and may cite varietal type and vintage. Denominazione…

1 Roasted Boned and Stuffed Shoulder of Pork The Capofosso Chianti DOC 2014 ($18.95) is a soft, savouryedged blend of sangiovese and canaiolo which has fresh liquorice and dried herb notes and an almost salty tang on the finish – making it a perfect partner here. For stockists visit artigianoimports.co.nz. 2 Grilled Mussels Made from a blend of malvasia and grecanico, the Duca Di Castelmonte Diantha 2013 ($22) has the most alluring, musky-sweet, lemon blossom perfume and it’s so fresh and crisp and delicately fruity on the palate that it’s perfect for this dish. For stockists visit touchofitaly.co.nz. 3 Beef Carpaccio To pair with the delicacy of the rare beef and the tangy hit of the dressing, I’d suggest the Masi Campofiorin Ripasso 2011 IGT ($40). This plush, velvetytextured red…

Farro, Caper and Feta Filled Romano Peppers These sweet, long peppers make a delicious light meal or antipasto. Piled high with a flavourful grain salad, they then get flashed under the grill until lightly golden. 4 long romano peppers olive oil Filling 1 cup farro ¼ cup currants 2 cloves garlic, crushed pinch chilli flakes ¼ cup pistachios, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons capers 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice finely grated zest 1 lemon ¼ cup parsley, chopped 150 grams feta, diced sea salt and ground pepper Preheat the oven to 180°C fan bake. Cut the peppers in half lengthways through the stalk. Carefully remove the seeds and any white membrane. Brush the flesh side with olive oil and place cut side up on a lightly oiled baking…

Parsnip Gnocchi with Rocket Pesto (gf) If you’ve never tried making gnocchi, I’d urge you to give it a go. It’s much simpler than you think and incredibly satisfying. 1 large potato 2 large parsnips 2 egg yolks ½ cup finely grated parmesan 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus extra ground black pepper ⅓ cup rice flour ⅓ cup tapioca flour Rocket pesto 2 tightly packed cups fresh rocket leaves, plus extra to garnish large handful fresh basil leaves ½ cup toasted pine nuts ½ cup good-quality olive oil juice of . lemon 1 garlic clove, finely diced sea salt and ground black pepper Place all the pesto ingredients into a food processor. Process until relatively smooth. Taste and season with sea salt and ground black pepper. Peel and cut the…

No words are spoken between Nino and his clientele at the Ballarò market. The young maestro knows exactly how his customers like their calves’ guts. With the speed and grace of a surgeon, he slips handfuls of warm offal from the mysterious depths of a tightly wrapped wicker basket into a plain white panini or a few squares of grease-proof paper. A quick douse of pepper or a spritz of lime juice and the customer is served with a flourish and a smirk. The surprisingly delicious frittola are a speciality in the city of Palermo. The culinary tradition dates back to the 15th century, when the frittularu strapped his basket to the back of a donkey. At that time, Sicily’s capital was said to be one of the finest cities…

8 medium, firm but ripe plums (I used black doris) 3 tablespoons brown sugar ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground Chinese five-spice Cake 180 grams butter, at room temperature 1 cup caster sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, with star anise or plain vanilla 3 large eggs, size 7, lightly beaten 1¾ cups plain flour ½ teaspoon sea salt 1 teaspoon baking powder To serve icing sugar lemon juice (optional) Grease an 8-cup capacity loaf tin and fully line with baking paper. My tin is 25cm × 13cm and 7½cm deep. Preheat the oven to 150°C fan bake. Halve and stone the plums. Cut each half into 3 wedges and set aside. Combine the brown sugar, cinnamon and five-spice in a bowl and set aside. Cake: Beat the butter, sugar…

MARCH Sunday 27th CLYDE WINE AND FOOD HARVEST FESTIVAL Held on Easter Sunday each year in the historic main street of Clyde in Central Otago, this festival celebrates wines from the world’s most southerly vineyards – with offerings from the wine producers in the Clyde, Earnscleugh and Alexandra basin – including of course the the internationally recognised Central Otago pinot noir. For details visit promotedunstan.org.nz. APRIL Saturday 2nd THE GREAT KIWI BEER FESTIVAL CHRISTCHURCH The biggest beer event in the South Island celebrates New Zealand’s affinity with the amber nectar. With more craft beers on the market than ever, head to Hagley Park to find your favourite, while listening to some tunes and snacking on some beerappropriate munchies. For tickets visit greatkiwibeerfestival.co.nz. Saturday 2nd WAIHEKE WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL Held…

Not many would say washing dishes is their favourite pastime. Bosch knows this – so its goal is to make cleaning your dishes as effortless and easy as possible. Bosch engineers carefully design, produce and test their dishwashers to fully satisfy the highest standards in quality, performance and convenience. The result is cutting-edge technology, timeless design, remarkable ease of use and, of course, perfect outcomes every time. The other result of their designs? Being named as the best-branded dishwasher worldwide*. bosch-home.co.nz *A recent Euromonitor survey based on volume of sales worldwide in 2015 showed Bosch as the number one choice for consumers. Dishwasher model may vary slightly from image shown. save up to 35% when you subscribe PRINT SUBSCRIPTIONS New Zealand: One year (six issues) from $38.60 Australia: One year…

Within the pages of Florentine: The True Cuisine of Florence, there is one recipe its author Emiko Davies doesn’t believe readers will make – lampredotto panini. Lampredotto (or abomasum in English) is a kind of tripe from the fourth stomach of a cow. “It’s very different from the normal honeycomb tripe most people know,” explains Emiko. “Florence is pretty much the only culture in the world that eats these regularly and it’s not commonly found in other cuisines. It is the defining Florentine dish.” Locals get the delicacy from food vans parked on the corner of piazzas throughout the city. The steaming lambredotto is pulled from a boiling vat, sliced and tucked into a bread roll before being topped with chilli or salsa verde. “It’s totally acceptable to have in…

Dish Food Editor Claire Aldous takes our tastebuds on a trip to Italy.…

Layered Lasagne with Meatballs The recipe makes plenty of béchamel sauce, but it’ll keep 2–3 days covered and refrigerated. Use in vegetable gratins, stuffed jacket potatoes, or beignets or fritters. Béchamel sauce 600ml whole milk ½ teaspoon peppercorns 2 bay leaves few blades of mace or a grating of fresh nutmeg large sprig of fresh thyme 60 grams butter 5 level tablespoons plain flour ½ teaspoon salt Meatballs and sauce 300 grams best-quality pork and fennel sausages 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 × 400 gram tin crushed tomatoes 1 tablespoon tomato concentrate Spinach and pasta squares knob of butter 130g bag baby spinach leaves freshly grated nutmeg 300g lasagne festonate (I used Molisana, pictured) or lasagne sheets (use two per…

1 Zucchini Mozzarella and Green Olive Pizza Subtle but serious flavours like this need a wine that’s going to complement and not crowd them, such as Toscolo Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2013 DOCG ($25). It's dry and lean, yet with a rich lemon-pith creaminess, and hints of pear, almond and honeysuckle which work beautifully with these ingredients. For stockists email minka.trading@gmail.com. 2 Farro, Caper and Feta Filled Romano Peppers It’s an Italian style we don’t see much here, but the Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra Verdicchio dei Castelli Di Jesi 2014 ($26) is just the ticket with these peppers. Soft, chalky aromas lead to a burst of white peach, preserved lemon and rich, citrus pith characters and a long, creamy finish. It’s superb with the capers and feta. For stockists…

Rib-eye Steak with Mustard and Parsley Butter I like to make up a large batch of this butter and keep it in the freezer. It’s delicious with all meats, fish and for spreading on warm, crusty bread. 4 × 150 gram rib-eye steaks olive oil sea salt and ground pepper Butter 150 grams butter at room temperature 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ teaspoon chilli flakes ¼ cup chopped parsley Butter: Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Place on a large piece of plastic wrap and roll up into a cylinder. Chill until ready to use. Steaks: Rub both sides of the steaks with oil and season generously.Heat a saute pan until hot and…