Indice dei contenuti per Issue 3 2024 in CROWN

If it feels like there are more and more watch events popping up across the world, or perhaps more accurately, more horological programmes that we are conscious of, you would be right. There is a sense of repetition, that brands are expected to be represented at each event, along with the press and end-clients. The decentralisation of watchmaking events when the Baselworld fair slid into oblivion has led to a Twitter-like cascade of new local, regional, and international programmes. It is a fantastic opportunity for new and old watch brands, as well as retailers, to rediscover each other and engage with end consumers who are always interested to know what’s the next cool trend. At the same time, it exacts a heavy toll on marketing teams and consumer pockets, as…

Frédéric Arnault The second son of Bernard Arnault began his watch career as the Strategy and Digital Director of TAG Heuer after working on its Connected Watch. He was promoted to the CEO of TAG Heuer in 2020 with an ambitious target to turn it into a billion-dollar revenue brand. As of this year, he has moved on from TAG Heuer to oversee LVMH Watches, which includes Hublot, L’Epée 1839, TAG Heuer, Zenith, La Fabrique du Temps, and the shared research department. In addition, he is now the Managing Director of Financière Agache, one of the holding companies that control the LVMH Group. Vahé Vartzbed The General Manager of HYT, Vahé Vartzbed, has been promoted to CEO after a year of service. Meanwhile, former CEO Vincent Perriard is resuming his…

This year marks Breitling’s 140th anniversary, and the watchmaker has steadily brought a series of well-loved classics, along with some surprising collabs (we definitely did not expect a Beckham partnership). The latest drops, and probably the most thrilling for collectors, are the 140thanniversary editions of the Premier, Navitimer, and Chronomat. These are kitted out with Breitling’s latest mechanical feat: an in-house perpetual calendar chronograph movement, the B19. This is not the first perpetual calendar chronograph in Breitling’s long history: past models used the Calibre 19, which was based on ETA’s 2892-A2. The new manufacture movement naturally has its basis in the B01 calibre. The perpetual calendar is an analogue one and shares display space with the two chronograph counters. An additional moonphase counter is positioned at 12 o’clock. The leap…

Fans of maritime thriller fiction will certainly have heard of Cussler, whose works have repeatedly appeared on the New York Times bestseller list. His fictional shipwreck hunter character, Dirk Pitt, has emerged victorious time and again wearing a Doxa SUB on his wrist. Pitt is modelled after Cussler; the author was a dedicated shipwreck hunter himself and founded the non-profit National Underwater and Marine Agency (NUMA) in 1979. Cussler himself was a lifelong SUB fan and friend of the brand, and while he passed away five years ago, the watch brand continues to commemorate his love of the diving watch range. Last year, it introduced the first Clive Cussler limited edition, and this year, a second model has been released. The SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler stands out for its…

For the CEO of Maurice Lacroix, Stephane Waser, the following adage surely rings true: “We return to the roots of our beginnings, and there we find the seeds of our future.” The brand faced a minor identity crisis in 2014 when he was promoted to Managing Director. In search of a foundation-building product that could easily introduce the brand to new customers, he looked at the archives and saw the Calypso. Two years later, Aikon was born. With the same spirit and style, slight refinements and more consistency in design, the sports-chic style of the Aikon now includes complex movements derived from the Masterpiece, as well as easy-wearing quartz models. It even added a segment for the ecoconscious with the Aikon #Tide, which uses upcycled plastic to produce the case.…

Back in the ’40s, as SCUBA diving gained popularity, Mido had ideas about creating a diving watch that would apply the patented Aquadura Crown Sealing System (developed in the 1930s). Aquadura used a cork gasket to seal the crown against water infringement, which, together with a monocoque case construction, would create a highly waterproof watch. It registered the starfish emblem in 1942 and the name “Oceanstar” in 1944. It wasn’t until 15 years later that the first Ocean Star (more precisely, the Ocean Star Commander) would emerge with a Powerwind mechanism and the Aquadura solution. (At the time, Rolex and Blancpain had patented designs for rubber gaskets for waterproofing; other brands had to find alternatives around them.) One of the most recognisable Ocean Stars was the Decompression Timer in 1961,…

Wthe first Geneva Watch Days (GWD) event took place in August 2020, it felt like a reaction to the formality of Watches and Wonders. The latter, led by its committee, had strict rules on participation at the time and focused on virtual experiences due to the pandemic. The six founding brands of GWD were Breitling, Bvlgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., and MB&F – they all had a presence in BaselWorld, which permanently ended in July 2020 (with death throes up until 2022). With the exception of Bvlgari, they were all independently owned as well, though it should be noted that Bvlgari is not managed under the Watches Division of the LVMH Group. Five years on, the number of participating brands has exponentially grown to 52 brands, with…

When Daniel Roth founded his eponymous brand in 1988/9, the industry was still on wobbly legs. The watchmaker had gained a commission of 35 Double Face Tourbillon timepieces from Asprey of London, each COSC-certified and taking over 400 hours to complete individually. These had the time displayed on one side with the tourbillon and the date and power reserve on the reverse dial. Despite this, Roth’s investors, who were not from the industry, considered their investment too risky. It would be Singapore retailer The Hour Glass that intervened and combined the Roth and Genta brands under the Manufacture de la Haute Horlogerie umbrella company. It was later acquired by Bvlgari, which was itself acquired by the LVMH Group. Last year, La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Manufacture behind its…

It’s only been slightly over five years since Bugatti and Jacob & Co. decided to collaborate, and there has been a steady stream of supercharged timepieces, each inspired by a Bugatti hypercar. The last one was the Chiron Tourbillon, which currently sits on the wrist of Jacob & Co. partner and actor Salman Khan. Now, the Bugatti Tourbillon hypercar that’s recently announced has its horological equivalent in the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon. The timepiece draws a number of design elements directly interpreted from the supercar. These include the case shape, which mirrors the car’s from overhead; the front grille and radiator inlets, sapphire crystal case sides that equate to the side windows; dashboard-like sub-counters; and most importantly, the automaton function that mimics the operation of the vehicle’s V16 engine…

Out of nowhere, and on a Friday evening, no less, the house of Chanel and MB&F dropped a bombshell announcement that the French Maison was taking up a generous 25 per cent investment in the brand Büsser founded 19 years ago. The cash injection will surely supercharge MB&F’s business expansion, including its M.A.D. retail format. The founder will retain a controlling share in the business, and business partner Serge Kriknoff, who leads R&D and production, holds on to 15 per cent. This announcement is thrilling, but we’re more excited to see the Legacy Machine Sequential Flyback up close at Geneva Watch Days. Released earlier this summer, the new double chronograph is a step up from the Sequential Evo movement that Stephen McDonnell designed for MB&F a couple of years ago.…

For many watch enthusiasts, the concept of the luxury sports watch presents a dichotomy: while its design tends towards modernism and discreet elegance, few complications fit easily into its puristic spirit. H. Moser & Cie.’s latest watch concept is the answer to those who want both in a beautiful timepiece. The fluid curves of the watch have made this series one of the brand’s most popular; now, it’s equipped with a minute repeater with flying tourbillon. Both are presented on the front of the watch and are the only disruptions to the otherwise pristine enamel dial, which is in itself stunning. Most unconventional is the choice of case material for a minute repeater: stainless steel in the case and bracelet, with vertically brushed surfaces and mirror-polished chamfers. More commonly housed…

The chronograph is a complication that channels the very spirit of the late Roger Dubuis at his eponymous brand. It was part of the graduation movement he made in his youth, and the flyback and rattrapante chronographs were introduced early on by the company. The flyback chronograph has undergone several iterations, with the latest RD780 calibre introducing two innovative ideas. The first is a unique design that displays the elapsed chronograph minutes. At the 3 o’clock position is a two-part display with a three-arm hand indicating the decimal minutes and an arced display for the 0-9 digits. Incredibly legible while taking up less space on the dial, we certainly see the potential for other uses with this display. The second is a braking system for the chronograph’s seconds hand, designed…

For many of us, the idea of sustainability starts with cutting back on air conditioning or simply minimising single-use plastics. Using recycled materials in luxury products is not a novel idea in 2024, but admittedly, they still tend to look plastic-y. Ulysse Nardin has gone in a reverse direction, using precious materials to remind us that ocean protection can look very elegant. The Diver collection is a dedicated sports watch line that starts from the ocean but reaches beyond to the land. These timepieces are styled like diving watches but are not dedicated to only underwater exploration. Nearly all of Ulysse Nardin’s Diver models are in steel and titanium, with a mix of textured or skeleton dials and a smattering of high-tech materials such as Carbonium for the bezel. A…

As this summer comes to a close, two important sporting events are taking place. The Paralympics started at the end of August, and the America’s Cup is hard on its heels. It is the oldest international competition still in operation today across all sports. Competing races begin in September to decide which of the five yachting teams will be the final challenger against the last Cup holder. That’s the Emirates Team New Zealand, which has been defending champs for seven years (two races). There are plenty of sponsors for each team, many of which are luxury watchmakers. Therefore, each America’s Cup event is an opportunity for these manufactures to present something dedicated to the team. In Omega’s case, not only is it a sponsor of Team New Zealand, but it…

Even before the United Nations set out its goals for sustainable development, Sylvia Earle had been pondering the challenges facing ocean conservation. Even with infinite resources, localised knowledge of marine life and local culture would be critical to ensure conservation success. This is why the Rolex Testimonee’s organisation, Mission Blue, is focused on helping local partners achieve their goals. To find the right partners, Mission Blue developed the idea of Hope Spots, locations that are critically important to the health of the ocean and marine ecosystems. Conservationists can reach out to Mission Blue for help with data-led projects or to scale up existing efforts. As part of the Rolex Foundation’s Perpetual Planet Initiative, Mission Blue provides resources that local organisations may lack, from funding to research assistance, equipment, and Earle’s…

Earlier this year, Patek Philippe held an exhibition of the largest collection of artistic timepieces it has ever created at its Salons in Geneva. A total of 82 examples were on display, including 43 wristwatches and 27 dome and small dome clocks. In addition, there were pocket watches and table clocks depicting various themes through the application of traditional artisanal crafts from engraving to marquetry and, of course, enamelling. Since the 17th century, Geneva has been known as a city rich in talent practising various decorative artistic crafts. Geneva’s watches were renowned for their artistry and aesthetic style, each of which was carefully wrought by hand. The Genevan style of enamelling was highly regarded with its Grand Feu process, firing multiple layers of enamel at temperatures above 800 degrees Celsius.…

Earlier this summer, Blancpain made a big announcement that was really a continuation of a promise made at the Fifty Fathoms anniversary celebrations last year. The watchmaker was intensifying its efforts in ocean protection, recommitting to fighting for the UN SDGs with major partners such as PADI. It was a jolt of much-needed energy for the pursuit of conservation, which has faced setbacks with numerous global events taking place. The green pursuit does not end at the shores for Blancpain. In fact, since the start of this year, it has been exploring the verdant hue and expanding its soothing touch across key products. It started with the Villeret Quantième Perpétuel and the Chinese Xiali Calendar, which stands out as a complication only practised by a handful of the finest watchmakers.…

Corum, along with many other fine and high watchmaking brands established in the second half of the 20th century, are relative youngsters. Next year, it will celebrate its 70th anniversary, while two other brands will be well past two centuries old. Despite its youth, or perhaps because of it, Corum has built iconic designs that highlight its mid-century origins, from the Bubble to the Golden Bridge. The concept of the baguette movement was first presented in 1977 by Vincent Calabrese (one of last year’s GPHG winners), who describes in his autobiography the motivation behind its invention. Having encountered a client who wanted a damaged watch case repaired so it looked like it was working, he vowed to “design a watch that would be bought for the beauty of its movement…

Each year since 2020, Laurent Ferrier has presented the watch-collecting community with a limited edition model. Available only online or through the Manufacture directly, the Atelier series offers watch enthusiasts the possibility of getting a Laurent Ferrier watch without the waiting time. This year, the Série Atelier comes in the form of a new model, the Classic Auto, which adopts some of the characteristics of the Sport Auto series. The date window with its side mirror-styled cutout appears in the Classic case in this model, along with the self-winding LF 270.01 movement that’s used in the Sport Auto. Another new element is the tonal distinction between the main dial and running seconds counter. In the new Classic Auto, Laurent Ferrier explores a new colour realm, one that’s adjacent to the…

The dive watch and the chronograph complication were both purpose-built tools at their time of invention. Today, mechanical versions of both are more of an indulgence since there are digital alternatives that can simplify the process of using both. Nevertheless, many divers still enjoy diving with traditional tools. It’s a good practice but also an ode to those who developed the tools we use today for diving.. The creative lead of Singer Reimagined, Marco Borraccino, has a strong love for old and new. He’s developed a mechanical diving watch that is honestly a useful tool based around Singer’s chronograph-centric design and the AgenGraphe movement. Like all diving timepieces, it has a bezel with a 20-minute countdown and decimal minutes, essential for decompression. There’s also a 24-hour central chronograph indication that…

Since introducing its Spirit collection in 2020, Longines has been steadily enriching the well-received line with a slew of models. These include the Spirit Chronograph, Spirit Zulu Time, and, of course, the Spirit Flyback, which celebrates a significant milestone in the winged hourglass brand’s illustrious history. This summer, the Spirit Flyback received a glow-up with two new dial colours and adorned with 18K yellow or rose gold components, while the Spirit Zulu Time now comes clad in titanium. WHEN THE SPIRIT FLYBACK WAS RELEASED LAST YEAR, LONGINES TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO REMIND US THAT IT INVENTED THE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH AS FAR BACK AS 1925 Peak Elegance When the Spirit Flyback was released last year, Longines took the opportunity to remind us that it invented the flyback chronograph as far back…

The idea of resonance in a movement with dual regulators dates back to Christiaan Huygens, who invented the pendulum clock and the balance spring. Huygens observed that two pendulums mounted on the same beam would synchronise. Armin Strom’s Resonance movements follow the work of French clockmaker Antide Janvier, who created double pendulum clocks, which observed the same principle by adding an intermediate component. Armin Strom’s patented clutch spring is specially designed to synchronise two regulating organs and maintain their resonance. That ensures the movement is better defended against shock, gravity, and other environmental changes. This ensures that the chronometric performance of both escapements is consistent. That makes it ideal for a dual-time function. To maintain reasonable proportions, these are time-only displays with day/night indications for each time zone. At 34.15mm…