Table of contents for March 2020 in delicious

AS I WRITE this letter on the eve of the March issue going to print, it’s hard not to think about our friends, industry and fellow Australians affected nationally by the bushfire crisis across the Christmas and New Year period. I was saddened to read about the destruction of Southern Ocean Lodge on Kangaroo Island, a spot the delicious . team has visited several times over the years, most recently for the Lodge’s 10th anniversary. Owners James and Hayley Baillie have vowed to rebuild their flagship property and help support other local businesses, producers and suppliers as more than 40 per cent of the island was ravaged. The Baillies have requested we continue to support Kangaroo Island tourism as they recover. The Adelaide Hills wine region has been badly damaged,…

WELCOME WE’RE THRILLED TO present the inaugural American Express delicious. Month Out, in partnership with the City of Sydney, The Sunday Telegraph, The Daily Telegraph and The Fork. Watch Sydney come alive from March 1-31 with exclusive offers, discounts and experiences across the city. From bars to cafes, providores to pubs, retailers to distillers, through to the best of our fine diners, you’ll be able to taste the spirit of Sydney like never before. Across these six pages, you’ll find out about some of the exciting activity slated for the month ahead. Join us each Thursday at free pop-up precincts across the CBD, Surry Hills and Potts Point for drinks and DJs from 4-7pm. Or celebrate in your local suburb, because all of Sydney is getting involved! You can also…

PIPIS “While we may not have many bivalve species in Australia, we do have pipis, and they’re quite spectacular. They integrate themselves well into many styles of cuisine. While they are typically opened up with white wine, you can also use dry vermouth.” MUD CRAB “There’s something ritualistic about eating crab; you commit yourself to getting every last morsel of that intensely sweet, succulent meat. While the Chinese do it very well, this version pays tribute to the French and Italian tradition of garlic-butter seafood. Lemon juice helps to cut through the richness of the butter, while crispy breadcrumbs add contrast to that sweet, soft meat.” PORK BELLY “When cooked the right way, pork belly can be one of the most delicious cuts. Fennel and pork are a classic combination;…

MEANING ‘ALL MIXED up’, shakshuka or shakshouka is one of my favourite dishes to make (and eat!). Some say it originates from Yemen and others claim its roots are in the Ottoman Empire. And of course, with my Lebanese background I’ve come across many versions of this dish, mostly eaten in a breakfast-style mezze with additions of date molasses toast and labneh. My recipe is a super-quick version which takes advantage of the same flavours I adore. The salad that it is served with is brilliant – the combination of heat and zest works so well together. And although commonly eaten for breakfast, if you’re like me, you’d love it for dinner, too. There is nothing quite like devouring this dish on a cold rainy night, served hot with Lebanese…

GINGER AND THAI basil yoghurt is an ideal accompaniment for these fishcakes. And if you can find them, you can use Jerusalem artichokes instead of potatoes, preparing them in much the same way. Yotam Ottolenghi is chef-patron of the London-based Ottolenghi delis and the NOPI and ROVI restaurants. He has published seven bestselling cookbooks – his latest is Simple, published by Random House. @ottolenghi @ottolenghi delicious.com.au/recipes For more of Yotam’s simple recipes with knockout flavours. SALMON & POTATO FISHCAKES (COVER RECIPE) SERVES 4 AS A MAIN, OR 8 AS A STARTER 750g desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 3cm chunks 1/4 cup (60ml) olive oil 2 tbs Thai basil, finely chopped, plus 12 leaves, picked 10g dried wakame seaweed (from Asian food shops), roughly broken up 1 tsp ginger, peeled,…

“THE TRICK TO GETTING THOSE DELICIOUS BITS OF CRISPY FRIED RICE IS TO COOK THE RICE THE DAY BEFORE YOU MAKE THE FINAL DISH. NOT ONLY IS FRIED RICE FAST TO MAKE ANYWAY, BUT IT’S PERFECT MEAL PREP ON A SUNDAY, FOR MONDAY NIGHT'S DINNER.” SWEET & SOUR CHICKEN WITH EGGPLANT SERVES 4 You can use store-bought sweet & sour sauce, but this homemade version is worth the effort. 1/4 cup (60ml) chicken stock 1/4 cup (60ml) tomato ketchup 170g brown sugar 2 /3 cup (165ml) rice wine vinegar 2 tbs dark soy sauce 1 tsp Chinese five spice powder 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tbs ginger, finely chopped 4 (about 400g total) chicken thigh fillets, thinly sliced 1/3 cup (80ml) sunflower oil 250g eggplant, cut into 1cm pieces…

blending in Nutritious soups, wholesome smoothies, fresh juices and decadent cocktails are a breeze for the Breville 3X Bluicer. This dual-function appliance has five speeds and four program settings, making it the perfect addition to your kitchen. Visit: harveynorman.com.au sunkissed sparkling Summer lives on with San Pellegrino’s Essenza range. Mediterranean flavours like tangerine, wild strawberry, dark morello cherry, pomegranate and lemon and are mixed with sparkling water for effervescent delights. Visit: sanpellegrino.com guiding light Crispy, healthy and convenient meals are easily done, thanks to the Russell Hobbs Air Fry Crisp N Bake Toaster Oven. The multiple functions let you bake, grill, air-fry, toast and keep dishes warm, while the adjustable shelf heights are ideal for easy cooking. Visit: au.russellhobbs.com interior designer Fashion meets baking with Smeg’s ‘Sicily Is My Love’…

Watching on in wonderment as a defiant 85-year-old woman dances barefoot on a tabletop for an adoring audience of well-watered winemakers and their families, it dawns on me: I have just become the cruising type. During the early hours of the day, I’d pulled back my cabin’s curtains and welcomed in a view of Crete. During leisurely moments such as this – void of airport queues, security checks, pressurised itineraries and luggage hauling – it becomes easy to appreciate why vacationers might choose to embark on Celestyal Cruises’ seven-night Eclectic Aegean voyage aboard its time-honoured Celestyal Crystal. ATHENS Our cruise begins in the historic heart of Greece and its capital Athens. In this part of the world, it seems whichever direction you look, ancient architectural feats await encounter. Whether you’re…

#MAKEITDELICIOUS DECEMBER’S MOST-LIKED POST 2334 likes, 72 comments We’ve found the ultimate alternative to fruit cake –Porteño’s Basque goat’s cheesecake with baked peaches. Find the recipe at delicious.com.au. POUR A GLASS: I adore small bites and tall drinks, so the spritzes and dips feature (November 2019, p 82) of your jam-packed birthday issue was stellar! I also loved the great summer entertainment ideas. Thanks for being there all my adult life and for teaching me how to cook. Cheers to 18 more years! Karyn Reimann THE WINNER IS... Having recently retired, we have moved from Tassie to Queensland to enjoy the weather all year round. We sold or gave away most of our stuff, but had a very small, curated selection of our most beloved possessions sent up ahead of…

FIRST, THE GOOD news: our plastic use is decreasing. However, despite reusable coffee cups, biodegradable straws and cotton shopping bags, each Australian is still estimated to generate 135kg of plastic waste each year, and most of that ends up in landfill, with only 12 per cent recycled. Founder of no-waste restaurant Silo (now closed), Melbourne-based Joost Bakker is working on the plastic recycling method of pyrolysis, which transforms plastic waste into a fuel alternative to petroleum. Bakker says “plastic is a problem beyond comprehension. We need radical change to first avoid using it and second to create circular systems”. This means promoting the perpetual use of goods and materials to keep them out of landfill. Enter Jamie Forsyth, the man behind Returnr, which launched in September 2019 out of Melbourne…

@mikebennie101 @mikebennie101 "YOU CAN'T SEPARATE the kitchen from the drinks,” says Duncan Welgemoed, chef at Adelaide's Africola. I agree, adding that the best dining experiences come about from excellent kitchens that are heavily invested in their diners' drinking. For Africola’s brilliant food menu, Welgemoed sources produce from local, small-scale growers. To him and his team, it makes sense that the wine list is similar. “The Adelaide Hills are 25 minutes away, McLaren Vale less than an hour, and the Barossa and Clare Valley, amongst other regions, are readily accessible from Adelaide," he says. "It’s stupid to preach about local produce, paddock to plate, and not focus on the great work around us in vineyards.” Some chefs broaden their horizons and end up becoming deeply invested in the winemaking process (Welgemoed…

STYLE With the tables teeming with florals, the soiree had a luxurious countryside feel that perfectly suited Ashdown’s vision to a tee. “I’m drawn to a style that reflects English heritage, but with a youthful take. And I’m in love with gardening, which is why I wanted to bring the outdoors in,” she explains. MENU “Tim Brennan from Somerley House did such a great job on the food,” she says. “We wanted to work with fresh, seasonal produce, prepared in a simple but flavoursome way.” PLAYLIST “We had a string quartet, Clear Strings, play because I wanted it to feel like you were in a beautiful estate. My friend, who’s a pianist, played at the event as well,” she says. “You need good music and a good tone that fits…

BAKED PASTA WITH CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE AND RICOTTA SERVES 4-6 500g extra-large dried pasta shells 400g firm ricotta, drained, crumbled, plus extra to serve 2/3 cup (50g) finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve 2 x 250g punnets cherry truss tomatoes Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Small basil leaves, to serve “GET ORGANISED WITH THESE MAKE-AHEAD DISHES SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO THINK ABOUT WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVERS.” CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE (MAKES APPROX. 2.5L) 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 2 small red onions, finely chopped 5 anchovy fillets, drained 3 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tbs finely chopped black olives 1/2 bunch each basil, flat-leaf parsley and oregano, finely chopped 1/2 cup (140g) tomato paste 1 1/4 cups (310ml) white wine 4 x…

“THIS IS A SIMPLE, MODERN TAKE ON A CLASSIC POTATO SALAD, ENRICHED WITH HEARTY EGGS AND GREEN PEAS.” IN MY WORLD , salads are the ultimate sharing food. There is no more satisfying sight than seeing a huge platter piled high with vibrant vegetables. One of the things I love most about salads is that they are so adaptable – they can be prepared ahead of time and eaten at room temperature. Another plus is that they are so transportable, an easy dish to pack up and take along to a gathering, or for an inspiring desk lunch. My salad recipes, with vegetables at their helm, are emphatic main meals, rather than side dishes. In our age of ephemera, Community invites the reader to find more meaningful ways of connecting…

There are few places in the world that meet the expectations of your wildest dreams, but I’d be willing to bet you a dreamy desert camel ride that Morocco will meet all of them and then some. Of all the gin joints in all the world, we arrive in Casablanca, a city in the tiny North African nation whose location inspired the 1942 Hollywood film. Bogart and Bergman aside, the city is an ideal beginning to your Moroccan adventure. Seated on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, it’s a waving distance from the tip of Spain, and the Andalusian influence on architecture and food remains a key part of the city’s DNA. Here, sentences start in Arabic and end in French, scattered with Berber and English. It’s this rich sense…

MEAT-FREE FEAST Buffalo mozzarella, beetroot, orange dressing, p 42 Geyer Wine Co Semillon 2017 (Barossa, $28) Roasted spiced brussels sprout and chickpea bowl with fennel salad, p 103 Chatto Mania Pinot Noir 2018 (Tasmania, $35) Comté, thyme & leek quiche, p 56 Eden Flo Gewurztraminer Riesling Pinot 2018 (Barossa, $28) “Meat-free doesn’t have to mean flavour-free, and, indeed, these dishes deliver complexity in the palate and general deliciousness. You’ll need fragrant and frisky aromatic white wines alongside fresh, bright and light reds that can handle a chill!” Mike Bennie, Drinks Writer FAST & FLAVOURSOME Chilli prawn and sesame fried rice, p 78 Baked pasta with cherry tomato sauce and ricotta, p 82 Chocolate, sour cherry & rye brownie cookie, p 110 “Spending my days cooking in the delicious . studio…

PIPIS WITH VERMOUTH, SEAWEED, WHITE PEPPER AIOLI SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT MEAL 1/4 cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil 2 eschalots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 5 lemon thyme sprigs, plus extra leaves to serve 2kg pipis, purged 1 cup (250ml) white vermouth 1 kombu sheet (from Asian food shops) Chargrilled sourdough, to serve WHITE PEPPER AIOLI 1 tbs lemon juice 2 egg yolks 2 garlic cloves, finely grated (we used a microplane) 1/2 tsp ground white pepper 1 cup (250ml) grapeseed oil For the white pepper aioli, place the lemon juice, egg yolks, garlic and ground white pepper in a blender and whiz until combined. With the motor running, gradually add the grapeseed oil in a thin steady stream until emulsified and combined. Add 2 tbs…

C: Pork tenderloin. Don’t even touch it, don’t trim it. You slice it down the middle, like a steak, and open it out, flatten it out. We'll give it a great marinade: ginger, garlic, chilli, ground coriander and some sesame oil. A: Lemon zest? C: Lemon zest if the butcher wants it! Lots of seasoning. Then you hit the barbecue with this butterflied pork fillet and it will cook nice and quickly. A: What about a dressing? C: Let's do a coriander dressing. It's going to be ideal for family meals when the kids are in and out of the pool. A: And how are you serving this? C: What are you missing here? You marinate it, grill it, and just serve it with coriander dressing. A: It seems a…

IT ALL STARTED with an honest question to Stokehouse pastry supremo, Lauren Eldridge. She was slow-roasting tamarillos for her signature honeycomb and custard dessert and I thought, what happens if you roast kiwi fruit? My research into the subject brought up no useful information. Sure, there are recipes for kiwi fruit baked in cheesecakes and muffins on the internet, but nothing roasted. Perhaps, in part, because the kiwi fruit is the gaudily-dressed wallflower at the end-of-year fruit dance that only gets to shimmy when there’s pavlova or fruit salad on the menu. It seems that some people have an irrational distrust of the kiwi. I even hear talk of an international syndicate that webs the world, conspiring to keep the spread of the dreaded fruit in check. So I went…

THE END OF the season is a busy time for chefs Jo Barrett and Matt Stone. As champions of the no-waste movement, the pair from Oakridge Wines in the Yarra Valley spring to action, preserving the best produce to enjoy year-round. “It’s all about capturing produce at its peak flavour and nutrient level, when it’s most abundant,” says Barrett. For the end of summer, that means strawberries, stone fruit, tomatoes and zucchinis, to name just a few. “You can buy top-quality ingredients for a better price at this time of year. Don’t be afraid of ‘seconds’ and buying in bulk, especially for making jams, chutneys, sauces and pickles.” For Barrett, eating seasonally is a no-brainer. “It’s important, and preserving is crucial. That way you have different foods all year round…

CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE Freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 months or store in the fridge for up to 1 week; use for pasta sauce, to top chicken parmigiana (recipes, right) or add to a tagine (recipe p 88). CHICKEN BROTH Freeze in an airtight container for up to 3 months; use for soup; use poached chicken for banh mi (recipe p 85). CHERMOULA SPICE MIX Store in an airtight container for up to 3 months; use to marinate meat, flavour yoghurt or season vegetables. SLOW-COOKED LAMB Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days; serve with tagine or add to wraps. ROAST VEGETABLES Store in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 5 days; serve in a roast vegetable salad,…

“USING SOURDOUGH STARTER TO FERMENT THE FLOUR MAKES THIS A BETTER-FOR-YOU BROWNIE.” “I LOVE THE texture of a really good, well-made brownie,” says Michael James, chef, baker, and mastermind behind baking bible The Tivoli Road Baker. “It’s about having a crispy crust and soft, gooey middle. And maybe something extra like nuts, or something crunchy like buckwheat or quinoa, or interesting flours like rye.” Brownies would often grace the menu of James’ former bakery on Tivoli Road in South Yarra, and will likely make an appearance at his new posting on Alla Wolf-Tasker’s Dairy Flat Farm, too. “They’re one of my favourite indulgences,” he says, “along with a brownie cookie.” (Find the recipe on page 110). “It’s hard to resist a brownie straight out of the oven, but if you…

WELCOME TO OUR second delicious . Cruise special. Since launching this sister brand under the delicious . Travel section last year, we’ve been inundated with ideas and requests for more information on the burgeoning foodie cruising scene. Hence our team was promptly despatched to carry out intriguing assignments on the high seas! delicious. travel editor Sonya Gellert had the enviable assignment of visiting Greece and Turkey with Celestyal Cruises, where her experience focused more on the incredible destinations. Long-time contributor and new MasterChef judge Melissa Leong embraced the small river ship experience of Aqua Mekong, where the resident chef is David Thompson of Long Chim and Nahm fame. Their adventure traverses the cuisines of local villages through Vietnam and Cambodia, and we couldn’t have found better guides . Intrepid traveller…