Wallpaper的July 2022目录

Three beauty brands are offering an innovative take on the traditional pink make-up products that flood the market come summer. Hermès’ new Hermesistible tinted care oils for lips come in six scent-infused shades with fruity hints that range from the cantaloupe-coloured Beige Sapotille and the orange-tinted Corail Bigarade to the bright berry-coloured Pourpre Camarine. Formulated with 97 per cent natural ingredients to moisturise lips, the oils’ subtle touch of colour and brightening gloss make them an ideal companion for casual summer beauty routines. Alternatively, Byredo’s three new shades in its colour stick collection offer something a bit bolder. Designed to be used anywhere on the face, the new shades are Demerara, a dusty pink inspired by brown sugar, Frosting, a glossy rose glittering with gold sparkles, and Marzipan, an electric…

Swiss office furniture brand Giroflex is celebrating its 150th anniversary with the launch of an unusual desk chair at this year’s Salone del Mobile. Lausanne-based studio Big-Game delved into the brand’s archive in search of inspiration, finding a treasure trove of turn-of-the-century bentwood creations, shaped for optimal comfort and designed to last. The studio’s contemporary version is perfectly balanced with tilt points under both the seat and the backrest that allow the chair to adapt to the weight and movements of its user, and was built with the help of Japan’s Karimoku New Standard using sustainable timber from oak trees in northern Japan that would otherwise have been discarded or pulped to make paper. The timber was meticulously hand-finished to create the chair’s backrest, seat, arms and foot base, which…

The Padiglione delle Feste (festival hall), in the Italian resort town of Castrocaro Terme, forms the backdrop to Italian furniture company Giorgetti’s latest collection. Designed in the 1930s by engineer Diego Corsani and ceramicist and artist Tito Chini, the building fuses rationalist and art deco architecture, juxtaposing a balanced geometric rigour with rich decoration. The new collection includes the ‘Borealis’ screen, by Roberto Lazzeroni, which is defined by a sensual composition of interwoven leather bands whose arrangement references the patterns of the aurora borealis. The collection also includes Dainelli Studio’s ‘Montgomery’ chair, inspired by classic furniture silhouettes updated with a contemporary spin. These two projects, and the entire 2022 collection, are the result of Giorgetti’s push for creative research on shapes, materials and craft, which, CEO Giovanni del Vecchio notes,…

USM – the Swiss manufacturer of modular furniture and storage units – is among a select few brands that, by virtue of its timeless designs, rarely has cause to add to its product range. By the same logic, it is particularly selective when it comes to teaming up with other brands. So the news of its collaboration with leading luggage label Rimowa is bound to turn heads. ‘Concept USM by Rimowa’, as the result is tagged, is a perfect union of distinctive elements from both brands – the USM ‘Haller E2’ storage credenza reimagined in the grooved aluminium that is emblematic of Rimowa’s luggage. Unexpected, but true to the ethos of its two creators, this one-off conceptual piece reflects a shared belief in high craft and functional design that stand…

Tree-lined Perry Street in the West Village is one of Manhattan’s most prized neighbourhoods. Despite gentrification, some things – including certain residents – have remained as they always have been over the decades. Lee Gross, a feisty and sharp nonagenarian trailblazer, who was pivotal in shaping the cinematic documentation of Hollywood, has lived on the street for more than three decades. A new kind of photographers’ agent, Gross pioneered the practice of assigning prominent photographers to capture ‘behind the scenes’ (BTS) images on film sets between the 1960s and 1980s, to document the making of epics such as Apocalypse Now, Cabaret, Rosemary’s Baby and Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf?. Lee Gross Associates, founded in 1967, worked with photographers like Eve Arnold, Bob Willoughby and Mary Ellen Mark on ‘back of house’…

It is said that the best way to predict the future is to invent it. Not to copy what has gone before or mimic the past, but to shake up the status quo with moonshot inventions that amaze and astound, defying all operational and aesthetic convention to become modern essentials. The domestic hygiene innovations from Roborock fall into this category, as the Beijing-based consumer tech company works tirelessly to spearhead the future of intelligent sonic mopping and robotised floor-cleaning convenience. Take, for example, its S7 MaxV Ultra, which consists of an S7 MaxV vacuum cleaner and an intelligent docking system. Capable of emptying itself, refilling its own water tank, and self-washing its mop after cleaning, this ingenious, all-powerful robovac allows users to enjoy extended vacuum and mop time without manual…

The busiest month of the design calendar is upon us. The arrival of this issue coincides with Milan Design Week, headlined by the 60th edition of Salone del Mobile (7-12 June). So we are putting the spotlight on outstanding furniture designs, from a kaleidoscopic screen by Gaetano Pesce for Cassina that evokes the New York skyline (see above) to Jacopo Foggini’s outdoor furniture collection for Edra, assembled from translucent blue polycarbonate sticks that resemble ice cores. Discover more in our Design Directory, presented by our head of interiors Olly Mason and artist Oskar Proctor with creative office Area of Work. Patricia Urquiola’s ‘Almendra’ modular lighting system for Flos and the Campana Brothers’ ‘Metamorphosis’ seating collection for Paola Lenti – each the subject of an in-depth preview feature – occupy opposite…

Two mega-brands, Adidas and Gucci, united on the catwalk as part of Alessandro Michele’s A/W22 offering, heralding an idiosyncratic collection that meshes sportswear and high Italian design. A riff on Adidas’ Gazelle sneaker encapsulates the collection’s retro-inflected mood, recalling the louche sportswear of the 1960s and 1970s, eras to which Michele has long been drawn. In various hues and fabrications, they are united by a distinct sole, imprinted with both the Gucci monogram and Adidas trefoil. gucci.com, adidas.com…

The Madrid-based Nieto Sobejano Arquitectos took inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc Haus in Hamburg from the sleek presentation boxes that house the brand’s fountain pens. The longitudinal volume of this new museum, visitor centre and exhibition space spans the width of its plot, adjacent to Montblanc’s existing factory. On its stark and impactful exterior, striated concrete evokes the mountain range from which the company takes its name, while inside, the architects contrasted the darkly impermeable outer shell with varying shades of white to create ‘fascinating spatial impressions’. The interior’s sequential areas, spanning 4,600 sq m across three storeys, are connected by a triple-height domed hall to complete an elegantly choreographed, multisensory experience. Bringing brand experience, meeting places, archives, lounges, exhibition spaces, café and boutique all under one…

Intricate feats of savoir-faire have defined Givenchy since its beginnings in 1952, the house’s namesake founder Hubert de Givenchy learning the art of couture – whereby each garment is sewn entirely by hand by a dedicated team of ‘petites mains’ – from masters of the post-war era, Jacques Fath and Elsa Schiaparelli. Seven decades on, the house’s current creative director Matthew M Williams brings this same fastidious approach to his collections. Tracing the maison’s legacy through a sleek, contemporary lens, he meshes tough elements of metal hardware with lean silhouettes and smatterings of embellishment. Those who follow the designer on Instagram can see these imaginative leaps: Williams posts galleries that flip between images of Hubert de Givenchy’s original designs and his own riffs on the house’s archive. But Williams is…

When architect and designer Patricia Urquiola debuted her ‘Serena’ table lamp for Italian lighting brand Flos at 2015’s Euroluce, the Salone del Mobile’s biannual lighting exhibition, it was an instant classic. Though the industry attention seemed to indicate otherwise, it was not, in fact, the only work of hers on display. Suspended from the ceiling of the stark white Ron Gilad-designed booth was another design, a prototype that never made it into production. It was an experimental lighting system that played with the same aesthetics as ‘Serena’, which resembles a petal curving around a well of light, reflecting and diffusing its glow. But instead of the table lamp’s short vertical body, the hanging light was formed of willowy branch-like stems that hovered over the exhibition floor like the canopy of…

Studiopepe’s new collectible furniture and objects collection demonstrates that contemporary design and the history of ancient civilisations can go hand in hand. Presented by Galerie Philia at Fuorisalone 2022, ‘Temenos’ is named after the circular sacred area found in ancient Greek temples and is inspired by the items collected by the Luigi Pigorini National Museum of Prehistory and Ethnography in Rome. ‘The collection explores the notion of sacredness in its anthropological and historical complexity, and the symbols given to objects and furniture pieces throughout history,’ explain Studiopepe founders Arianna Lelli Mami and Chiara Di Pinto. Although this is their first foray into collectible design, the Milan-based pair have often employed the codes of the genre in their work, especially in what they call ‘Manifesto projects’, experimental and research-based designs that…

More than any other wristwatch architect, Gérald Charles Genta’s visionary aesthetic owed as much to the spirit of industrial design engineering as it did to fine horology. His iconic, groundbreaking work for some of Switzerland’s most notable manufactures found the so-called ‘Picasso of watchmaking’ creating genre-defining sporty models and Grand Complication timepieces alike, but also introducing new ways to read time with his retrograde and bi-retrograde movements. Defying convention, Genta’s designs for these watches’ cases, pushers and bracelets made reference to nautical and military hardware, ships’ portholes and deep-sea diver helmets, and even ancient Roman coins. Famously, Genta’s classic Patek Philippe Nautilus was designed to look like an industrial hinge, while the screw heads on his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak case were, outrageously, left exposed. Not content with working for…

1. ‘CABANON’ OUTDOOR SAUNA by Effe Sleek and angular, this outdoor sauna, designed by Rodolfo Dordoni with Michele Angelini, comes in two types (one for the garden, one for the terrace) and three sizes. Its modular structure consists of a painted aluminium frame, available in three colours (orange, green and grey), while the interior is lined with heat-treated aspen, with the option to add a dark solid wood for a two-tone look. Meanwhile, warm LED lighting and a gently backlit mirror help to create a suitably intimate and relaxing atmosphere. Price on request, effe.it 2. RAIN SHOWER RANGE by Dornbracht A new range of rain showers launched by German brand Dornbracht roots its design in our relationship with water. Available in a choice of 11 finishes (including black and white…

This summer looks set to be one of unrestrained escapism, so a holiday-ready bag is an essential piece. At Chanel, the ‘22’ tote, an oversized riff on the house’s signature quilted handbags, complete with requisite chain handle and branded medallion, provides room enough for the usual overpacked jumble of beach-day accoutrements. Equally expansive is Celine’s ‘Cabas Cuir Triomphe’ in supple tan calfskin, with an easy drawstring fastening. Max Mara’s slouchy ‘Jean’ handbag, meanwhile, arrived as part of a S/S22 collection inspired by Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse. Elsewhere, a summertime spectrum of colour and texture set a carefree mood: Dior’s ‘Lady Dior’ handbag, in a miniature iteration crafted from wicker, recalled picnic baskets and summer hats, while woven raffia made up bags from Prada and Paula’s Ibiza, Loewe’s seasonal offshoot inspired…

Prada’s S/S22 menswear collection captured the ephemeral joy of a summer holiday. ‘[It’s about] a sense of the utopian, the ideal of hope, positivity,’ says Miuccia Prada. ‘To expose yourself to nature, to go to the beach, is freedom.’ Complementing the collection was an array of accessories, including striped terrycloth slides and octopus earrings, but it was a reimagined bucket hat that had us smitten. Forsaking the necessity for more unwieldy beach bags, two slits on each side can hold the arms of your sunglasses, and a triangle-shaped zip pocket on the back offers just enough room for keys, coins or earbuds, keeping your valuables close even as you head down into the water. And for those remaining at home, such features prove equally efficient for a hands-free commute. prada.com…

A host of watch brands are riffing off aquatic themes in this year’s new releases, playing on a gradient of blues to bring a maritime mood to classic watch designs. For Bell & Ross, the distinctive square face of the BR 05 Chrono Blue Steel is offset by a shimmering blue sunray dial. A juxtaposition of texture brings a depth to the hue of the Hermès H08, its distinctive cushion-shaped case now cast in a blue titanium. The deep colour of the dial, resulting from its Physical Vapour Deposition coating, is offset with a black ceramic bezel and pops of orange. For Vacheron Constantin, the Patrimony Self-Winding 18k white gold watch, which marries the minimalist design codes of the 1950s with a deep blue gradient, embodies its classic-with-a-twist philosophy. In…

Best known for his pared-back lighting creations, Cypriot-born, London-based designer Michael Anastassiades has turned his hand to jewellery, partnering with Japanese brand Shihara. ‘The most important thing to consider when designing jewellery is its relation to the human body and the space it occupies when worn,’ he says. ‘I love the improvisation behind an abstract piece and the challenge it presents when it comes to wearing it. A strong design can exist in multiple ways. Shihara jewellery has that quality.’ A shared focus on clean, minimalist silhouettes meant the brand was a natural fit for Anastassiades, whose streamlined aesthetic is reflected in a bracelet and necklaces in 18k gold, with disrupted loops inspired by the construction lines on architectural drawings. For Shihara founder Yuta Ishihara, the collaboration was an organic…

Given the prominent position that the Fritz Hansen furniture brand occupies in the Danish design industry, the addition of a new collaborator to their roster – which already includes illustrious names such as Arne Jacobsen, Poul Kjærholm, Jaime Hayon and Cecilie Manz – is cause for fanfare. Especially when this collaboration has come about through Wallpaper’s matchmaking. It was in late 2018 that we first introduced the brand to artist and designer Kasper Kjeldgaard, to create a one-off piece of lighting for our Wallpaper* Handmade X exhibition at Milan Design Week (see W*245). Three and a half years on, Fritz Hansen and Kjeldgaard are cementing their partnership with the new ‘Oneline’ light, due to launch in September 2022. At a glance, the new light is much simpler than Fritz Hansen…

Design fairs can often feel homogeneous, despite all the creativity and innovation on view. Milan Design Week, the world’s preeminent design showcase, championed a Eurocentric perspective and aesthetic for decades, but despite calls for greater diversity in design, it is not easy to turn the tide. This is a challenge the organisers of ‘This is America’, a multifaceted exhibition of US design installed this year at Alcova, have gamely taken on. The first curatorial collaboration between the design-focused public relations collective Hello Human and the experience design studio Aditions, both US-based, this contemporary survey presents a fresh and optimistic view of US design, while sparking discussions about diversity and inclusion in the wider design world. Both Hello Human founder Jenny Nguyen and Aditions co-founder Alma Lopez-Moses are women of colour,…

West Vancouver’s Bonetti 2 Residence came about when a long-term friend and business associate asked architects David Battersby and Heather Howat to design his new home. The duo not only took the opportunity to craft a contemporary family home that elegantly straddles glamour and modesty, they also had the chance to conceive the house as a 21st-century interpretation of West Coast modernism. Sympathetically bridging the built and the natural, this stellar strand of midcentury architecture includes in its legacy the work of 20th-century masters such as Cornelia Hahn Oberlander (see W*230), Ron Thom and Arthur Erickson (see W*45). The site, at a steep 45-degree incline overlooking a rail cut and a ravine, was generous but wasn’t without its challenges. ‘We did the clients’ first house in West Vancouver, so this…

Danish eyewear brand Lindberg, which was founded in 1986 by architect Henrik Lindberg and his optometrist father Poul-Jørn Lindberg, has built a reputation on meticulous craftsmanship, innovation and quality engineering, something that is evident in the lightness of its frames, their delicate construction, and the daring way in which every design detail is on display. Lindberg’s new 8336 model is a typical example of the brand’s aesthetic – from the tip on the nose pad arms peeking through the transparent composite front to the flawless hinges, everything appears effortless at first glance, but closer inspection reveals a masterpiece in state-of-the-art, technical innovation. The latest Strip3p Titanium models, meanwhile, are a light expression of scrupulous engineering, minimalism and precision. Lindberg’s extensive modular system allows for the dynamic customisation of elements to…

‘TANGRAM’ KITCHEN by Garcia Cumini, for Cesar This sinuous series includes five different curved units designed to adapt to any space, big or small, and make it easier to move around the kitchen. Cabinet doors have vertical ridges to create a seamless finish, while the stone worktop comes with an elegant groove detail. cesar.it ‘TIVALÌ’ KITCHEN by Yabu Pushelberg, for Dada Pushelberg has put its stamp on Dante Bonuccelli’s ‘Tivalì’, originally designed in 2004. Its two big folding doors, which slide open and then neatly disappear into the wall, have been upgraded with a new configurable pivot mechanism, while options include marble or stone worktops and splashbacks, and built-in lighting. dada-kitchens.com ‘ITALIA’ KITCHEN by Antonio Citterio, for Arclinea Citterio’s first design for Arclinea back in 1988, the ‘Italia’ set the…

Models: Lily Taieb at Viva London, Yasmin El Yassini at Anti-Agency, Jiayun Xie at The Hive Management, Divine Nwaokogba at Next Management Casting: Spela Kasal Hair: Maarit Niemela at Bryant Artists using Charlotte Mensah Make-up: Victoria Martin using Westman Atelier Photography assistant: Robert Palmer Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt Hair assistant: Kyosuke Tanzawa Make-up assistant: Lizzie Checkley Prop hire: Accoutrement Studio Jewellery: Hannah Silver Special thanks to Locke Hotels…

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19/99 1999beauty.com A Adidas adidas.com Akris akris.com Alape alape.com Anest Collective anestcollective.com Antoniolupi antoniolupi.it Area area.nyc Armani Casa armani.com Armani Roca armaniroca.com Atelier de Troupe atelierdetroupe.com Axor axor-design.com B B&B Italia bebitalia.com Balenciaga balenciaga.com Baxter baxter.it Bette my-bette.com Bisazza bisazza.com Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Buly 1803 buly1803.com Byredo byredo.com C Cassina cassina.com CEA Design ceadesign.it Celine celine.com Ceramica Cielo ceramicacielo.it Chanel chanel.com ClassiCon classicon.com Completedworks completedworks.com D De Beers debeersgroup.com Dior dior.com Duravit duravit.com E Edra edra.com Emu emu.it Ethimo ethimo.com Expormim expormim.com Ex.t ex-t.com F Fendi fendi.com Fendi Casa fendicasa.com Filippo Carandini filippocarandini.it Flexform flexform.it FontanaArte fontanaarte.com Formed Concrete Basins formedconcretebasins.com G Gebrüder Thonet Vienna gebruderthonetvienna.com Giorgetti giorgettimeda.com Giroflex giroflex.com Glamora glamora.it Graff graff.com Gucci gucci.com H Hansgrohe hansgrohe.com Hermès hermès.com I Ideal Standard idealstandard.com K Karakter karakter-copenhagen.com Kartell kartell.com…

Dominique Gonzalez-Foerster’s experimental practice is a cross-disciplinary dissection of the human – and non-human – condition. Considering her multi-layered, otherworldly practice, her chosen recipe is remarkably down to earth. Omelette aux frites consists of four ingredients: eggs (of a ‘happy’ variety), potatoes (chopped into ‘little cubes’), olive oil and salt. In a characteristic fusion of past and present, Gonzalez-Foerster’s dish, which she serves with cornichons, is ‘an invention from my grandmother for my father, who would then cook it for me and my brothers,’ she says. ’Now I make it for my daughter Minuit almost once a week.’ ‘Alienarium 5’ is showing at Serpentine South until 4 September, serpentinegalleries.org, dgf5.com. For Gonzalez-Foerster’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com…