Wallpaper的November 2016目录

PICKY NICKY’S TOP STAFF LOOKS Singapore Airlines These traditional sarong kebayas were designed by Pierre Balmain. Each Singapore Girl has two fittings and is issued with four uniforms a year. Prada Foundation, Milan Grey poplin shirts with rubberised badges, navy military-style trousers, black leather belts and rubber-soled boots. Like Prada prison uniforms. Spring, London Waiters wear striped tops, white cotton jackets, long white aprons over wide-legged cotton trousers, and matching plimsolls. Faena Hotel, Miami Catherine Martin, who designed the interiors alongside her husband, director Baz Luhrmann, was also responsible for the striking uniforms. Gambrinus, Lisbon Waiters wear old-school single-breasted jackets in claret gabardine with a black shawl collar. Flowerbx, London Couriers sport caps, heather-grey sweatshirts over white button-down Oxford shirts, cotton canvas chinos and black Jack Purcell Converse trainers, all…

CASE STUDIES Horological heroes of the hour Anyone who knows Marc Newson knows he loves watches. Indeed, he has been creating them since the mid-1990s, when his Swiss Ikepod brand refreshed traditional horological thinking with a whole new design sensibility. But even Newson couldn’t have imagined that he’d become the most recognised watch designer in the world when the Apple Watch launched last year. Today, fresh out of his horological dalliance with Silicon Valley, Newson looks content in the altogether more picturesque Vallee de Joux, the heartland of Swiss watchmaking. He is here to take a final look at the results of his latest time-keeping collaboration with Swiss watch and clock manufacturer Jaeger-LeCoultre, which this month will reveal its third Newson-designed Atmos clock. It has been two years in the…

Domenico Dolce and StefanoGabbana are finished with fashion’s ‘consistency counts’ concept store philosophy. Although it’s been the reigning retail strategy for the Milan-based designers and the majority of luxury brands over the past two decades, the idea of creating a single interior look, Xeroxing it and pasting it onto 300 cities across the world is resulting in colossal boredom among customers corralled into identikit streets. ‘Everything changes, we change – changeis a constant element in everyone’s life,’ says Gabbana. ‘The moment came for us, as well, [to create a] new selling strategy that would meet the wishes of our clients, passionate travellers always looking for something new and marvellous according to the city or country they are visiting.’ Consequently, the designers haveembarked on an ambitious overhaul of shops in 12…

Swedish art dealer Per Skarstedt is a man who likes a project. He’s currently renovating a ￡17m town house on Manhattan’s Upper East Side and has just opened a new gallery in London’s St James’s. Two years ago, he renovated a beach house in the Hamptons as a holiday home for his wife and two sons, and he’s still tinkering with his London pad in Albany, Piccadilly, that was officially finished in 2014. Aside from acquiring blue chip addresses in London and New York, where he has galleries in Chelsea and on Madison Avenue, he’s been amassing art in large quantities. He bought his first piece, by Cindy Sherman in 1987 when he was 23 and still living in Boras, the small town in Sweden where he was born. A…

There’s nowhere quite like the Finnishis land of Sarvisalo. Two hours north-east of Helsinki, it has a population of 200, a church, a cemetery, a (recently closed) shop, and a world-class collection of art. It’s not a sculpture park, although there are sculptures dotted around its meadows, beaches and barns, and it’s more than an artists’ retreat, since it’s open to the public at certain times of the year. As an art tourist destination, it’s still in its infancy, but its highest profile residents, Anita and Poju Zabludowicz, are, through their collection, putting this tiny island on the map. ‘The Zabs’, as they are known locally, have been collecting art since 1994. Today, they own around 6,000 pieces by 600 young and emerging artists, with whom they collaborate on exhibitions,…

Fashion: Gro Curtis It isn’t unusual for the grand hallmarks of architectureto permeate design on a smaller scale, but few examples are as pure bred as Tumi’s latest creation, 19 Degree – the company’s first ever aluminum suitcase. Inspired by the fluid linearity that’s present in both architecture and nature, 19 Degree is a striking combination of luxury and innovation with its modern, sculpted exterior. Elegantly crafted, the brushed aluminium design features a cascade of angled ripples – reminiscent, for architecture fans, of Frank Gehry’s Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles (pictured). As in Gehry’s building, the contours of Tumi’s19 Degree create a bold and dynamic appearance. But it’s not all about the aesthetic; the ribbed case remains faithful to the brand’s tradition for utilitarian luggage that photographers, filmmakers,…

No one ever called West Hollywood beautiful. The streetscape – marked by concrete shells, run-down shops and malls and ugly car lots – is an unrelenting reminder of America’s hollowed-out suburban sprawl. In recent years, though, We Ho, as locals call the area, has attracted a bevy of slick restaurants, hotels and boutiques to rival Beverly Hills. With little fanfare, it has become a hotbed of creative energy, its artistic vibrancy entirely at odds with the uninspiring visual cues. Stepping through the doors of talent management company Three Six Zero’s new HQ is to realise, once again, just how deceptive outside appearances can be. When entertainment mogul Jay Z and his Three Six Zero partners bought film director Tim Burton’s old studio – a blank faced, single-storey warehouse on Willoughby…

Finding sex, love or both used to require a degree of human endeavour; it required actually going out and meeting people. Then, if you made it to a first date and were British, you drank a lot of alcohol and had sex. If you were American, you asked each other a series of searching job-interview-style questions, including salary and frequency of gym visits, and then, conditions being satisfactory, delivered efficient oral sex. Neither system guaranteed a second date. These quaint, analogue traditions that the greyer-haired Gen Xers can dimly remember are the habits of a century past. Digital dating has ensured that the joy and pain, humiliation and disappointment have endured, but the style of their delivery has changed with tech’s disruptive advance. In 1996, about 77 million people worldwide…

Rising up from the eastern deserts of Saudi Arabia like an ancient rock formation, the King Abdulaziz Center for World Culture is an ambitious piece of place-making. Nearly a decade in creation, this vast complex has been designed by Norwegian firm Snohetta to serve as a crossroads for many cultures, a geological form rendered in concrete and stainless steel Won in competition back in 2007, the building has been on site since 2008, during which time the brief has evolved and expanded. ‘When it’s finished in the spring, there will be an auditorium and theatre space for around 500, as well as a great hall, education centre, cinema and library,’ says Snohetta’s Tae Young Yoon, the architect overseeing the project. The client is the country’s national oil firm, Saudi Aramco,…

MARIO BELLINI ARCHITECT AND DESIGN GRANDEE Wallpaper* subscriber since 1996 We’re making sweet music at Bellini’s Milan apartment, photographed by Beppe Brancato Share a picture of your Wallpaper* collection using #subscriber since and tagging @wallpapermag Subscribe today at wallpaper.com/nov16 and receive subscriber-only, limited-edition, artist-designed covers; delivery to your door and the Wallpaper* digital edition at no extra cost. Twelve issues for £65. Offer closes 30 November 2016. For full terms and conditions, visit magazinesdirect.com/terms.…

In the rarefied world of crocodile-skin handbags, Santiago Barberi Gonzalez is king. There’s no happier place for him than the floor of a Nancy Gonzalez shop, selling uppercrust consumers his mother’s designs for women – or doing the same in one of his own boutiques for men. His private domain is another story. Few have crossed the threshold of his pied-a-terre in New York, a one-bedroom eyrie on Fifth Avenue in Midtown Manhattan. In this modestly scaled, richly imagined place, the Colombian-born accessories tycoon devotes himself to art. It speaks to him like family from every wall, ceiling, floor and window, even the bathrooms and closets. To Barberi Gonzalez, the works also conduct a visual conversation with each other – and with the city beyond his several glass walls. In…

AHMM’S ‘PROJECT JACK’ MODULAR OFFICE SYSTEM FOR GOOGLE FLEXIBLE SPACES Rooms can be dismantled and reconfigured quickly for maximum usability ACOUSTIC PANELS Exterior cassettes can be clad in fabric acoustic panels in bespoke colours SURFACE PROPERTIES Perforated boards boost acoustic performance and welcome shelves and pegs PLYWOOD CASSETTES The base module is a plywood frame fitted with panels to form cassettes PRIVACY SETTINGS Glazed cassettes come in degrees of transparency for privacy PROJECT Google HQ DESIGNER Allford Hall Monaghan Morris LOCATION London, UK The dot-com boom led to the birth of the campus space, as workers lived out the bulk of their lives on company property, with their every need catered for. Yet fashion is cyclical, and demand is now spiking for smaller, more flexible spaces with built-in intimacy. The…

Back in 1987, the same year architect Jean Nouvel gained international acclaim for his Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris, he also presented six aluminium objects at an exhibition held by the French non-profit VIA (Valorisation de l’Innovation dans l’Ameublement), to a much smaller audience. They included an adjustable table on X-shaped legs, an aluminium-and-rubber folding screen, and a very slick toolbox. These were Nouvel’s first efforts at design –none of which was ever manufactured. But since then the French Pritzker Prize winner has produced more than 100 pieces of furniture and design, from lamps to doorknobs, while turning out major architectural projects such as Barcelona’s Torre Agbar, the DR Koncerthuset in Copenhagen, One Central Park in Sydney, the upcoming Louvre Abu Dhabi and New York’s 53W53 tower. In 1995,…

The phrase ‘Fascist new town’ brings up a few associations. You might picture ruthlessly centralised neoclassical buildings, formal axes, some haranguing statues and eagles, lots and lots of marble. You wouldn’t necessarily imagine palm trees, cottages, canals, a Gothic church, bustling cafes on a piazza and the smell of manure. That is, you wouldn’t see Arborea, a new town founded in Sardinia in 1928, and possibly better known – if known at all – by its original name, Mussolinia. It is the subject of Oliviero Olivieri’s photography series, featured on these pages. This was the first of several new towns built on drained marshland in Mussolini’s Italy, a project that once attracted widespread admiration. For instance, in his popular book Town Planning, published at the start of the Second World…

Long before a certain sporting event rolled into town, Rio de Janeiro was already making waves. An irresistible mix of sun, sea, rhythmic beats and beautiful bodies had turned this colourful corner of Brazil into a byword for louche fabulousness. Of course, the bright lights and intoxicating mood hid their own secrets, and the recent Olympic Games inadvertently helped to focus attention on troubling systemic problems. Yet hotelier Gustavo Filgueiras and his jewellery designer wife, Andrea Colli Filgueiras, remain optimistic, so much so that they have launched their second Emiliano outpost (the first opened in Sao Paulo in 2001) right on Copacabana Beach, just a few blocks from the soon-to-open Museum of Image and Sound and the Carlos Drummond de Andrade monument. ‘We are very nostalgic about the glory days…

Since the early 1990s, visitors to the sleepy town of Čelakovice, just a few kilometres from Prague, could have easily missed the concrete ruin of Villa Volman. Situated in a large park, the house had become more of a neglected, weather-battered, graffiti-covered squat than the luxury mansion of its heyday. But the building – one of the Czech modernist movement’s forgotten icons – has been returned to its pre-war glory after years of careful restoration work. Saved by enlightened local business group CZ Tech, the home of industrialist Josef Volman was originally built in 1939, designed by avant-garde Czech architects Karel Janů and Jiři Štursa. Prague based Studio TaK won the competition for the renovation. ‘We had a huge appetite to be involved in a project of such significance,’ says…

Bay watch NAKAR HOTEL, PALMA A 1950s building on one of Palma’s liveliest shopping streets has been transformed into the Nakar, courtesy of local hotelier Toni Ramis, who charged architect Magi Marques with restoring the building to its former glory. Designer Marga Rotger has given the interiors a contemporary update using pale oak, stone, black lacquered iron and glass, and copper accents. Among the 57 rooms, six open-plan suites feature freestanding tubs, but the real pampering experience is to be had in the hotel’s subterranean spa, where bamboo details and a shadowy palette make for a restful backdrop, and facilities include a heated pool, a steam bath and a sauna. Nine storeys up, the rooftop sundeck and its 12m infinity pool offer panoramic views of the city and the Bay…

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE,‘FAGIOLO’ TABLE, FROM £2,376, BY ROBERTO LAZZERONI, FOR CECCOTTI COLLEZIONI. ‘PORTOR’ FP447 WALLPAPER, £156 PER ROLL, BY MATHIAS KISS, FOR PIERRE FREY. ON ROUND BLOCK, ‘AJIRO CHEVRON’ WALLPAPER, £206 PER M, BY MAYA ROMANOFF, FROM ALTFIELD. ‘SPLATTERWEAR 01’ FABRIC, £134 PER M, BY POLLACK, FROM ALTFIELD. ‘CUBE VASE’, £2,035, BY GABRIELLA ASZTALOS, FOR FENDI CASA. ‘PF2 CILINDRO’ STOOL, £1,360, BY AZUCENA. TOP RIGHT, ‘RIKO’ FABRIC, £30 PER M, BY SCION. BOTTOM RIGHT, ‘LYON’ TC096-830 FABRIC, £172 PER M, BY ARMANI CASA EXCLUSIVE TEXTILES BY RUBELLI. ‘CONSTELLATION’ WALL LIGHT, £1,140, BY PORTA ROMANA. ON ROUND BLOCK, ‘SPLATTERWEAR 07’ FABRIC, £134 PER M, BY POLLACK, FROM ALTFIELD. ‘HALCON’ VASE, £855, BY ARMANI CASA. ON BLOCK BELOW VASE, ‘RIVER BED’ WALLPAPER, £158 PER M, BY MAYA ROMANOFF, FROM ALTFIELD. ON FLOOR,…

A campus-like feel of open, multifunctional space can be created in pretty much any new container in any location (OMA’s massive hangar for G-Star Raw on an Amsterdam ring road springs to mind, see W*180). Carving the same kind of space out of an existing building is more of a challenge. Club Row is an extension of Rochelle School in Shoreditch, London, a cluster of Victorian buildings that house creative tenants such as designer Katie Hillier, textile studio Mr Grieves, production company North Six and design agency YES, with the acclaimed Rochelle Canteen located in the school’s former bike sheds. Architect Laurence Quinn, whose firm has a studio in the building, has overseen many of the interventions that have transformed the site. ‘Seven years ago we added the Frieze project…

‘Alba’ decanter, £192, by Joe Doucet, for Nude. ‘USM Haller’ shelving, £2,980, by Fritz Haller, for USM. ‘Lady’ armchairs, £2,820 each, by Marco Zanuso, for Cassina. ‘Joy’ side table, £1,305, by Rodolfo Dordoni, for Minotti. ‘Kilo TL Emperador’ lamp, price on request, by Kalmar. ‘Wide Pebble’ table, £3,730, by Birgit Israel. ‘Karui’ trays, from SEK798 (€84), by GamFratesi, for Skultuna. ‘View’ mirror, €60, by By Lassen. ‘Salvatore’ console, £4,710, by Porta Romana. ‘Chimney’ vase, £75, by LSA. ‘Stave’ mirrors, £30, by Ikea. ‘W-1960’ chair, €400, by Wagner Living. ‘Rock 90’ dining table, €11,300, by Ginger & Jagger. ‘Dine’ plate 27cm, £6.25; ‘Dine’ plate 20cm, £4.50; ‘Connoisseur’ tumblers, £11 each, all by David Mellor. ‘Veritas Oaked Chardonnay’ glasses, £55 for two, by Riedel. ‘Purbeck Stone’ paint; ‘Studio Green’ paint, both £40…