Wallpaper的January 2020目录

UGO RONDINONE Artist Rondinone’s recipe for this month’s Artist’s Palate (page 162) – Swiss alpine macaroni – nods to his personal roots. Known for his eye-catching public art and whimsical cast-bronze creatures, the prolific artist is also a keen campaigner for bladder cancer treatment research, and recently organised a charity auction at Sotheby’s New York. His rainbow-coloured neon work, We Are Poems, illuminates the entrance of the Beaux-Arts de Paris until 30 June. JONATHAN BELL Transport & Technology Editor When Bell joined Wallpaper* as an editorial assistant in 1998, one of his first tasks was writing the contributors’ bios. A lot has changed since, especially in transport and technology, his current editorial remit. ‘Imagine a world before smartphones, when Google was a big new thing, or when the only electric…

Designed by architect Kisho Kurokawa in 1972, the iconic Nakagin Capsule Tower, in the heart of Tokyo, was originally conceived for elite businessmen seeking conveniently-located private or rented accommodation or offices. But, after years of neglect, the building fell into a state of disrepair and has long been in danger of demolition. For architecture enthusiasts, it has become something of an Instagram pilgrimage as they head to Ginza to snap images of ‘pods’ that have been abandoned, metal doors rotted and broken, ceilings and walls peeling. The owners are divided into two camps: one that wants to save the tower because of its architectural value, and one that would prefer to demolish and rebuild, cashing in on the land value. The final decision will be made by the building’s management…

Back in the 1970s, Spanish designer André Ricard was growing tired of not being able to read at bedtime (his wife preferred to fall asleep in darkness). He set about creating a solution, resulting in the tubular, pipe-like ‘Tatu’ lamp. While its shell appears to be plucked straight from the 1970s, the designer claims its retro feel is entirely coincidental and based on function. ‘Its diameter is just the one needed to contain the adequate light source,’ says Ricard. Meanwhile, three so-called elbows allow the lamp to be angled directly at whatever literature you please. To mark Ricard’s 90th birthday, Spanish brand Santa & Cole is shedding light on his design contribution by reissuing the ‘Tatu’ lamp, as well as creating a new, smaller model, the ‘Petit Tatu’, which should…

University campuses have long been innovation hotbeds. From Stanford’s prison experiment to Pavlov’s dogs study, universities have always offered the perfect storm of eager early adopters, corporate capital and government grants. Today, universities function as living labs for digital disruption: at Peking University, facial recognition software is making student IDs obsolete; Bolton College in the UK and Deakin University in Australia answer student enquiries with Siri-like virtual assistants; Western Michigan University has its own fleet of self-driving shuttles; and San Diego State University uses Virtual Immersive Teaching and Learning (VITaL) to study astronomy. Drones, simulators, imagineering through AR – these are now de rigueur on every self-respecting smart campus. And 5G and IoT will make them even smarter. Non-students need not fret. What happens on campus doesn’t stay on campus.…

Camille Blatrix’s studio in the 14th arrondissement of Paris is cluttered with carpentry tools and random bits of decoration: dollar signs graffitied on the wall; a clay minotaur; ten years’ worth of empty beer bottles; and a painting by his father, who used to be an artist, too. The 35 sq m studio, which Blatrix called home until 2017 (when he met his wife), is in a semi-dilapidated building of artists’ ateliers rented out by the mayor’s office. He keeps it because it is cheap and charming, and also for nostalgic reasons. When he was eight, his parents divorced, and he lived here part-time with his brother and father, who originally used the studio. The three of them slept on the mezzanine and ate meals from an oil stove. ‘It…

01 JAN FARN CHI Nottingham Trent University, UK ‘Elaps’ is a glass centrepiece table that evolves with the changing daylight, thanks to its red-hued section that casts a colourful shadow across the floor. ‘As time progresses and the natural light scatters, the shadows create an ever-changing display,’ says Chi. Dream collaborator: László Moholy-Nagy. chijanfarn.com 02 RYO HAYAKAWA Tama Art University, Japan These vessels were formed by pouring resin into rotating moulds, creating beautiful, albeit accidental, patterns (amplified when the pieces are back-lit). ‘I aim to change the image of resin from a homogenous commodity to a material that invokes fascination,’ says Hayakawa. Dream collaborator: Kartell. @hayakawa_sebastian 03 SIZAR ALEXIS Beckmans College of Design, Sweden The ‘Bel’ bin, designed to be stacked or lined up in rows, and with magnetic flaps…

01 YILIN WANG Royal College of Art, UK Wang’s moulded silver wire undergarment is designed to bear tension and is surprisingly resilient. When worn, its intricate weave embosses the skin. ‘I wanted to conceptualise the beautiful and delicate nature behind the archetype of the submissive and silent East Asian female,’ says Wang. Dream collaborator: Loewe. yilinjewellery.com 02 JING JIANG Central Saint Martins, UK The ancient Chinese technique of tian-tsui, where blue kingfisher feathers are used to inlay and cover the surfaces of ornaments, is subverted in Jiang’s designs. Her modern, sustainability-consious take utilises discarded poultry feathers to create exquisitely technical jewellery pieces. Dream collaborator: Nendo. @jiangsanri 03 ERINN M COX Estonian Academy of Arts, Estonia Cox’s satisfyingly weighty designs are constructed of hundreds of tightly wound rings of oxidised copper.…

Snow time LE COUCOU, MƒRIBEL Swooshing in just in time for the start of the ski season is Méribel’s newest ski-in, ski-out hotel. Paris-based designer Pierre Yovanovitch has conceived the interiors with admirable restraint, spreading Le Coucou’s 55 rooms, suites and chalets over ten cascading levels, with rugged stone walls and expansive terraces. The sense of spaciousness is amplified by the high-ceilinged interiors lined in blond timber, with alpine-lite furnishings, bespoke designs and the judicious hanging of cuckoo clocks. From every viewpoint, including the cloistered lap pool, full advantage is taken of the surrounding peaks, drawn in through floor-to-ceiling windows. When it comes to après-ski, following a lomi lomi massage in the mood-lit Tata Harper spa, it’s a toss-up between the sizzling Kobe beef teppanyaki in the Beefbar, and the…

For stockists, see page 160 Performance artists: Aniela Piasecka, Isabel Palmstierna and Paloma Proudfoot Hair: Yumi Nakada-Dingle at Home Agency using Oribe Make-up: Mattie White at Saint Luke using Les Ornements de Chanel and Chanel Sublimage Cleanser Additional dancers: Nikki Watson, Gemma Griffiths and Angela Ayton Photography assistants: Alexa Horgan, Maria Quigley Fashion assistants: Aylin Bayhan, Josefin Forsberg Hair assistant: Kyosuke Tanzawa Make-up assistant: Jayde Coxon Our models, Aniela, Isabel and Paloma, founded Glasgow-and London-based performance art group Stasis, with Olivia Norris, in 2014. They have created dance pieces for galleries, clubs, theatres and films, and their work has appeared at the likes of the Irish Museum of Modern Art, the Glasgow International festival, The Place, London, and Marsèlleria, Milan Shot on location at Battersea Arts Centre, London. The former…

From his seven stacks of fluorescent boulders in the desert outside Las Vegas, to walls of mirrored windows in jewel-like hues, and poetic phrases that arch across rainbow-coloured neon signs, Ugo Rondinone’s artwork is made for our fast-moving times: exuberant, visually arresting and impossible to forget. His favourite dish is subdued in comparison, a comforting combination of pasta, potatoes, bacon and garlic that ‘mixes Italian cuisine with down-to-earth Swissness’, says the New York-based, Swiss-born mixed-media artist. It’s not quite as social media friendly, but a crowd-pleaser all the same. For Rondinone’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com…

Newsstand cover Photography: John Short Interiors: Matthew Morris From left, ‘Lipstick’ armchairs, €280 each, by Gandia Blasco. ‘Tondo’ table, £2,939, by Essetipi, for Porada. ‘Big Bang’ pendant, €2,224, by Enrico Franzolini and Vicente Garcia Jimenez, for Foscarini. ‘Sidewall’ bookcases, £1,126 each, by Piero Lissoni, for Porro. ‘Sam Son’ armchair, £440, by Konstantin Grcic, for Magis. ‘Pablo Piano’ side table, £1,177, by Rubelli Casa. ‘Perillo’ lounge chair, €1,875, by Martin Ballendat, for Dauphin Home. See our story, page 122 Welcome to the Next Generation issue, as we kick off the new decade with a celebration of the most exciting young creatives worldwide. For our annual Graduate Directory, we’ve unearthed the brightest talents in design, architecture, fashion, jewellery, photography, visual communication, and transport, hailing from Central Saint Martins, Harvard GSD, as well…

That traditional savoury staple of Japanese gastronomy, miso is beginning to venture outside its comfort zone and into the sweet dish sphere. Satisfying our cravings for umami (the fifth taste sensation), miso can add a rich, savoury baseline to cakes, cookies and ice cream, as we recently sampled in New York (OddFellows’ miso cherry ice cream), London (Honey & Co’s apple and miso cake with butterscotch) and Paris (Mokonuts’ miso sesame cookies). Inspired by the salty sweet combo, Wallpaper’s entertaining director Melina Keays created her own sweet miso concoctions, which we then staged on and around recent Design Academy Eindhoven graduate Mathilde Philipponnat’s tableware, which finds inspiration in the work of Fauve painter Maurice de Vlaminck. The French designer takes the oversimplified lines, feisty outbursts of colour, and visible brushwork…

BB: How do you start your day? CS: I drink coffee and I make soup. Then I do a series of stretches for my back and after that I can finally go. How do you like to create? A lot of people say filmmakers like to plan. I don’t need to know what is going to happen with a film, but I like knowing that something should happen. The notion of originality is a little naive, and it’s never been desirable to me. I have always looked to the people who create culture and thought that those are the people I want to talk to. You want to make something that will contribute to that conversation. I’m not interested in humility – I just want to create something interesting. I…

We’re going wild for this season’s animal-print obsession, but for those keen to embrace a subtler take on the trend, we recommend investing in an accessory. Gucci’s snakeskin Horsebit bag will encourage your animal instinct, while Dolce & Gabbana’s cat’s eye sunglasses are spot on. A Hermès silk scarf brings a classic elegance to this more outré aesthetic, while Saint Laurent’s button-detail tortoiseshell boots are delicately demure. With these accessories, you’ll be leader of the pack in no time.…

01 MICAH BARRETT Yale School of Art, US Barrett’s variable font experiments explore text’s relationship to imagery, in an attempt ‘to infuse graphic design’s legacy of “text as image” into a contemporary digital environment’. Dream collaborators: Dan Deacon, Nam June Paik. ‘I would also love to work on signage for a municipal transit system.’ micahbarrett.work 02 HUGO DUMONT & ANTHONY VERNEREY ENSAD, France The French duo devoted their joint project to the world of Instagram, using graphic design to imagine alternative futures. ‘We questioned the fact that this social network could create a fake world where appearance takes over from content.’ Dream collaborator: Frank Ocean. hugodumont.com, @anthony_vernerey 03 AURELIA PETER Zurich University of the Arts, Switzerland ‘My interest in ritual masks was the starting point of this project,’ says Peter…

PIERRE YOVANOVITCH Creator of enchanting places and Wallpaper* Designer of the Year 2019 SOLANGE Modern soul power and style icon DANIEL LEE Quietly radical mastermind of the new Bottega Veneta LIZ DILLER Doyenne of contemporary cultural architecture ALEX ISRAEL Multimedia polymath and fashion collaborator extraordinaire ADRIAN CHENG Art-driven Hong Kong developer and K11 founder THE 2020 SHORTLIST 01 BEST DOMESTIC DESIGN ‘Beosound Stage’ sound bar, by Norm Architects, for Bang & Olufsen ‘Earth to Sky’ lighting, by Doshi Levien ‘Industrial Office’ phone, by Philippe Malouin ‘LG Signature R9’ TV, by Foster + Partners, for LG ‘Match’ kitchen, by Muller Van Severen, for Reform 02 DESIGNER OF THE YEAR Cristina Celestino Max Lamb Michael Anastassiades Sabine Marcelis Virgil Abloh 03 BEST NEW RESTAURANT Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, London, UK Opasły…

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The class of 2020 is taking things back to basics when it comes to creating tools for our tresses. For ÉCAL graduate Aurore Piedigrossi, it was an update of the ubiquitous horn comb. ‘The Hers valley in France once had a flourishing horn comb industry,’ she says. ‘Millions of combs were produced every year in factories all around the region, but the arrival of plastic made this precious industry disappear.’ Piedigrossi set about pushing the comb to new limits, bending and twisting it into many new shapes, thus ‘allowing for its evolution’. And while Piedigrossi’s project harks back to bygone times, Design Academy Eindhoven graduate Kodai Shimizu’s Craft-Techmen project looks to the future, envisioning home appliances that can be easily fixed rather than thrown away and replaced. @aurorepiedigrossi; kodaishimizu.com FOR…

We’re carrying a real torch for this flashlight-shaped minaudière in Virginie Viard’s debut Resort collection for Chanel. Its graphic Plexiglas shell features grooves that nod to the Parisian maison’s signature quilting, while encrusted orbs resemble flashing lightbulbs. Chanel has a bit of a penchant for novelty-shaped handbags (in recent seasons, we’ve seen styles resembling beach balls, robots and even snow-topped ski lifts), but we find the toolbox touch behind this design particularly illuminating. Just don’t store it in your shed. chanel.com…

Standing on a former industrial harbour that is currently being transformed into a brand new district, Helsinki’s Jätkäsaari School is the work of local architects AOR. With its white concrete and handmade brick façade, it’s one of the first schools designed entirely in accordance with Finland’s new national curriculum, where individual subjects are eschewed in favour of wider topics. Jätkäsaari’s 800 pupils enter an urban-style space on the ground floor, with a layout of streets and squares. In the central square, a three-storey atrium multitasks as canteen, auditorium and assembly hall. Workshops, art ateliers, and spaces for music and dance are on this floor, while the two upper floors house a lobby area and flexible learning spaces. Balconies act as al fresco classrooms, and even the few corridors have learning…

According to Nikolas Travasaros, founding partner of the London-and Athens-based practice Divercity, there are two ways to look at architecture. One is to approach a project with a signature style, the way, say, Frank Gehry might. The second is to interpret the underlying language of the client’s brief to create an unconventional story – the weirder the better. ‘You come to a new site bringing with you your memories. And you go through a process of understanding what’s important to the client and to you as a designer, and then try to blend all that to create a new memory for that site,’ says Travasaros. This introspective approach is articulated in a range of thoughtful and engaging residential projects, such as Psychiko House (W*162) and, more recently, Filothei House. Located…

01 XIAOTU TANG London College of Fashion, UK Tang’s accessories collection incorporates recycled packaging to propose ‘new directions for luxury goods’. Classic shapes have upcycled updates, like a bucket bag made from milk bottles or an umbrella holder formed from a stack of Diet Coke cans. Andy Warhol also provided inspiration. Dream collaborator: Hermès. @xiaotu.t 02 NATALIE RUSHTON London College of Fashion, UK Rushton’s fluid, gender-subverting menswear collection draws on her British and Japanese heritage, referencing pictures of her grandparents from the 1950s. Suiting appears oversized in sugary tones, blousons have dandyish pussy bow collars, and silk wool halternecks are paired with pearls. Dream collaborator: Tim Walker. natalierushton.com 03 MIRJAMI NYMAN Aalto University, Finland Inspired by dentist uniforms, Nyman’s collection features oversized, medical scrubs-toned plastic suiting, paired with plastic-swathed court…