Wallpaper的September 2019目录

GIORGIO ARMANI Fashion designer Presiding over a sprawling empire that includes fashion, furniture, food and hospitality, Mr Armani (as all devotees call him) is an icon of our times, but especially of Milan, where he maintains his headquarters and Armani/Silos exhibition space. Following the launch of the new Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante in the city, he responded to our Artist’s Palate invitation with a distinctly local dish: saffron risotto with scallops, orange and fennel (page 234). LAURA RYSMAN Writer Tuscany-based Rysman was deployed to the Florence studio of polymath artist and designer Duccio Maria Gambi to discuss his eccentric, craft-oriented approach to retail architecture for one-year-old fashion label Plan C, as part of our Architects of fashion story (page 133). According to Rysman, Gambi’s ‘explicitly imperfect geometries reveal a…

There’s a sculptural sensibility behind autumn’s most envy-inducing bags. Part accessory, part objet, they will complement a console table as much as a cocked wrist. Pared-back, deconstructed shapes reflect a modernist mindset, and handles are carved from the main body of bags to create wearable windows. Bottega Veneta and Published By are spearheading the sculptural trend, with designs resembling military holders and glossy meteorites, formed from padded leather, angular metal and recycled microfibre. Elsewhere, this Loewe bag is a re-edition of a style from its 1980s ‘Great Architects’ collection, a design that’s perfect for complementing both outfit and mantelpiece.…

All hail the new Canadian tuxedo as corduroy takes centre stage this season, knocking double denim off its pedestal. No longer just the uniform of ponderous professors, the material is satisfying our craving for cosy fabrics. From Symonds Pearmain to Y/Project, 1970s-infused pieces have been given a fashion revamp with on-trend cord co-ords replacing stiff jackets on the catwalk. But it’s Jacob Cohën that has given a thoroughly modern twist to the ridged fabric with a colour combination of deep teal and bright rust, spread across straight-leg trousers and casual shirts to mix and match. The luxury denim label has really put us in the mood for vintage staples far removed from the old-school clichés of conventional cord.…

Our working lives are increasingly fluid. Briefcases are just too cumbersome, so we’re putting Dior’s utility vest high on our hands-free hitlist. This versatile, multi-pocketed design nods to military tactical vests, and its flaps, folds and compartments can hold all your workplace accoutrements. In a nod to tailoring, the design has been constructed from a smart suiting fabric, but it’s sure to earn practicality points whatever your working wardrobe.…

Alice Waters is considered something of an icon in culinary circles, so there was much excitement in the Wallpaper* office when we discovered that Permanent Collection, the California- and London-based purveyor of timeless accessories for the body and home, is producing a series of kitchen tools based on ones Waters has cherished since her 1970s heyday. It helps that one of the store’s founders, Fanny Singer, is Waters’ daughter. With co-founder Mariah Nielson, she anticipated that some of her mother’s cooking staples might have a life beyond her home hearth, and they sought out local makers to bring them to a wider audience. First up is an egg spoon, originally made for Waters by blacksmith and cook Angelo Garro after she learned about the 17th-century French technique of cooking eggs…

Hermès windows campaign, S/S19 Installed across all of Hermès’ UK stores, these calming scenes used hypnotic movements set against a soft fabric landscape to reference the infinite cycles of the sun and the moon, creating lulling and serene environments Craig Green x Moncler Genius, A/W18 Isabel + Helen hit London Fashion Week with two 7m-tall inflatable towers – a perfect match for Green’s puffed-up looks. ‘People were walking around thinking, “What the hell is going on?” It was almost like theatre,’ says Chesner Constructivist Playground, V&A, 2014 This project for V&A Friday Late involved a functional seesaw, swing set and staircase rendered in crisp shapes, turning the Constructivist movement’s bold aesthetics into something jovial and interactive…

‘The past five years have been like an apprenticeship,’ says Tina Lutz, standing in the sun-filled production hall of a small leather goods factory in the industrial area of Wuppertal, near Düsseldorf in north-western Germany. ‘My background is in tailoring and knitwear, but I was kind of ready to challenge myself.’ After more than 30 years in the fashion business – with stints at Issey Miyake and Calvin Klein on her resumé, and having operated her own fashion label, Lutz Patmos, for 11 years – the German designer launched the accessories label Lutz Morris in 2017 as a small collection of adjustable leather bags in various colours, mounted on thin frames. The original bag design was inspired by a framed leather case Lutz’s husband gave her for Christmas (the name…

An artist and designer of engagingly eccentric, handcrafted objects, Duccio Maria Gambi is not a man of the fashion world, yet he shares an affinity with one of Milan’s most intriguing new clothing brands, Plan C, for which he has adopted the role of retail architect. Plan C’s founder, Carolina Castiglioni (daughter of Marni founder Consuelo Castiglioni), created some lacquered, rock-like pedestals for her brand’s first presentation in September last year, and later saw a connection to Gambi’s Zuperfici series of colour-faced Luserna stone blocks and vases. The similarity was striking, says Castiglioni, but her pedestals ‘were just an installation idea. Duccio’s work is art.’ Gambi was quickly employed to design the brand’s first-ever store, in Aoyama, Tokyo, though his background is far from the typical retail designer’s. ‘I’ve never…

For stockists, see page 232 Set design: Chloé Guerbois at Quadriga Management Costume designer and model: Michaela Stark at TL Paris Model: Katharina Diedrich at Sport Models Hair: Olivier Schawalder at Bryant Artists Make-up: Mayia Alleaume at Calliste Agency Manicure: Christina Conrad at Calliste Agency Photography assistants: Katrin Backes, Corinna Schulte Fashion assistants: Marianne Kakko, Aylin Bayhan, Alexandra Lefèvre, Maria Bonfà Set design assistant: Maud Blanchard…

A Acne StudiosTel: 44.20 7629 9374 (UK)acnestudios.com AdidasTel: 44.800 376 3705 (UK)Adidas.com Agnès BTel: 33.1 45 08 56 56 (France)agnesb.eu AgnonaTel: 44.20 7491 9815 (UK)agnona.com Akrisakris.eu Alexander McQueenTel: 44.20 7355 0088 (UK)alexandermcqueen.com Alexandre de ParisTel: 33.1 42 61 41 34 (France)alexandredeparis-store.com AlighieriTel: 44.20 8065 0302 (UK)alighieri.co.uk AllbirdsTel: 44.808 164 8595 (UK)allbirds.com AMI by Alexandre MattiussiTel: 44.20 7499 0290 (UK)amiparis.com Ann Demeulemeesteranndemeulemeester.com APCTel: 44.20 7287 9659 (UK)apc.fr AramTel: 44.20 7557 7557 (UK)aram.co.uk Atrezzo MannequinsTel: 34.934 876 164 (Spain)atrezzobarcelona.com B BaabukTel: 41.78 620 3748 (Switzerland)baabuk.com BalenciagaTel: 44.20 7317 4400 (UK)Tel: 33.1 56 52 17 17 (France)balenciaga.com Begg & CoTel: 44.1292 267615 (UK)beggandcompany.com BirkenstockTel: 44.20 3409 1577 (UK)birkenstock.com BossTel: 44.20 7734 7919 (UK)boss.com Bottega VenetaTel: 44.20 7838 9394 (UK)bottegaveneta.com BrescianiTel: 39.035 877266 (Italy)bresciani.it Burlingtonburlington.de By SpinkTel: 44.20 8380 0838 (UK)spinkpartners.com C CassinaTel: 44.20…

Whether in fashion or food, Giorgio Armani likes to square his perfectionist vision with a healthy dose of tradition. His Emporio Armani restaurants and cafés, now present on three continents, serve up Mediterranean and Italian fare, elevated in presentation while authentic in flavour. Headlining the menu at the recently renovated Milan location (pictured) is this saffron risotto. ‘It’s one of the most classic Milanese dishes, made more fragrant and tasty thanks to the surprising addition of scallops and thyme,’ he explains. Just the thought of this dish, enjoyed at the ground-floor bar under the glow of Mr Armani’s signature ‘Logo’ lamp, has us hankering for our next sojourn to the Italian fashion capital. Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante, via Croce Rossa 2, Milan. For Armani’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com…

For his new London show (his first with David Gill Gallery), Dutch designer Sebastian Brajkovic presents a furniture collection that includes a bench in the form of a Möbius strip. The title, ‘Lemniscate’, reflects an interest in mathematics, a lemniscate being an algebraic curve shaped like the number eight. Offsetting its pure, futuristic form are its intricately embroidered edges, with serpentine forms inspired by Brajkovic’s study of Chinese calligraphy. ‘It’s like an autograph,’ says Brajkovic. ‘I travel a lot between East and West, and I wanted my designs to reflect that.’ ‘The Occidental Artisan’, 13 September-17 October, David Gill Gallery, 2-4 King Street, London SW1, davidgillgallery.com; sebastianbrajkovic.com…

With around 30,000 companies, Poland’s furniture sector is significant, but most of its output is as an anonymous supplier to high-profile Scandinavian brands. ‘Polish manufacturers have brilliant technology and knowledge at their disposal, yet they lack an awareness of the market that would allow them to gain an edge at an international level,’ says Małgorzata Adamus, president of the Association for Industrial Design in Warmia-Masuria. She has co-ordinated a new initiative, the Grants for Design programme, to pair up-and-coming Polish designers with manufacturers. One of the fruits of this labour is MOD, a collection by designer Dorota Terlecka, of Biuro Kreacja, for manufacturer Pagok. Created for Pagok’s new brand, Microom, which is aimed at the micro-apartments sector, the range includes a desk/dressing table and a sofa bed. ‘The form is…

Inspired by the décor of a bourgeois Roman abode in the 1970s, Fendi Casa’s new furniture collection, Back Home, marks a return in several senses: firstly, the homecoming of designer Cristina Celestino, who worked with Fendi in 2016 on its pastel-hued Happy Room collection (see W*213); and secondly, the refocus on Fendi’s famous Pequin stripe, first introduced in 1987 and reimagined by Celestino with soft curves and a powdery pattern. Silvia Venturini Fendi, creative director of menswear and accessories, has also created a series of luggage items in Pequin’s new sugary tones, proving the pattern can be enjoyed at home or away.…

The idea that Paris is the fashion capital of the world is often conjured through images from the major maisons, steeped in glamour and luxury and with decades or even centuries of heritage. The biggest players are gatekeepers, in short, of an established industry that can make it hard for newcomers to get noticed. And yet, in the past few years, a generation of emerging designers – backed by initiatives such as the LVMH Prize – has been transforming Paris Fashion Week into an experimental hub, and turning industry expectations on their head by rethinking everything from creativity and sustainability to pricing and distribution. Here are three young designers currently making waves on the Paris scene. ROK HWANG ROKH Fans of the intellectual aesthetic of Phoebe Philo’s Celine now have…

3,000 Square metres of scalable climbing walls and three bouldering areas surrounding the Arthur Arbesser catwalk 9,000 Centimetres of fuchsia tulle used to create a single smocked dress in Molly Goddard’s larger-than-life collection 34 Rave-encouraging, ultraviolet looks closing the Saint Laurent show, making us reach for our glow sticks 40 Seats tiered on two bleachers, spinning showgoers around at the Kenzo Memento show 925 Bars of soap, weighing 125g each, sent to editors as Isabel Marant show tickets 40 Furniture pieces, by Pierre Paulin, Philippe Starck and Rena Dumas, at the Hermès’ men’s catwalk 8 Puffer jacket-wearing pooches, among them a Pomeranian, a Chihuahua and a Weimaraner, at Moncler’s Poldo Dog Couture presentation 120,000 LED lights illuminating a 100m-long mirrored Gucci runway in a luxurious lightbulb moment 8,611 Size in…

‘Timeless’ is a time-worn and more or less useless way of describing anyone’s work, particularly that of an architect. Architecture is as time-specific as fashion, even if the shifts in favoured materials and mannerisms are more tectonic. And yet the work of architect Smiljan Radić does encourage that tag. His star-making Serpentine Pavilion in 2014 was a fibreglass Neolithic hangout, while other projects, such as the Viña Vik winery (see W*184) or restaurant Mestizo, both in his native Chile, often match sharp Miesian lines with powerful, choreographed geology or towering trees. His House for the Poem of the Right Angle, meanwhile, is a crystalline cave and homage to the writings of Le Corbusier. It was this house that particularly intrigued Sarah Burton, creative director of Alexander McQueen, who first met…

After seeing the voluminous, globular earpieces that Marco Panconesi created for Mugler’s A/W19 collection, we were keen to try his jewels out for size. ‘Things in movement,’ the Florence-born, Paris-based jeweller says of the designs in his eponymous autumn debut, which features oversized hoops framed in coloured translucent enamel or crystals, that can be suspended from the ear lobe or hooked above the helix, or earpieces with metal tendrils that can be manipulated to move beyond or frame the face. Panconesi has given us a sneak peek of a piece in his upcoming sophomore collection. This oversized ear cuff, which sprouts crystals across the surface of the ear, highlights the jewellery designer’s idiosyncratic take on voluminous forms, with smatterings of crystals resting on different points of the skin.…

When Belgian fashion designer Ann Demeulemeester left her namesake label in 2013, she found herself spending more time at her 19th-century country house, complete with floral park and vegetable garden. But when it came to perfectly plating up the dishes made with her homegrown produce, she felt uninspired, so she put her creative thinking cap on. ‘In my studio I began to model clay, because sculptural thinking is part of my DNA,’ she says. At this September’s Maison & Objet in Paris, she will unveil her ‘Dé’ tableware, produced with Belgian brand Serax, which will tie the ritual of laying a table to her signature chiaroscuro aesthetic. The collection features hand-painted white porcelain plates with dégradé effects in black and red.…

Sustainability is moving to the forefront of most businesses’ modus operandi these days, but can any truly claim that what they do does no harm? The cosmetic industries are certainly aware that both economic and environmental survival now depends on their use of recycled materials, recyclable packaging, less water and no polluting chemicals, but there are also noble efforts being made towards zero impact. Wellness brand Haeckels, which is building a whole entrepreneurial ecosystem around seaweed, recently posted a picture on Instagram of a footprint in the sand representing the only trace left by the company’s regular seaweed harvest in its hometown of Margate, Kent. ‘In terms of waste produced, industry should be contributing to the system, ideally enhancing it, or simply evaporating, leaving nothing there is no time for…

Between 1987 and 1996, the Japanese photographer Shoichi Aoki captured fashion editors at Paris Fashion Week, striding across cobbled courtyards in high-waisted long black skirts and modest, matching jackets, or sitting together, hashing out the collections in smart peacoats and thick brown corduroy trousers. Unstaged and unfiltered, the images documented an industry that was indifferent to our gaze, on the cusp of the pomp and celebrity the digital age would bring. Today’s around-the-shows looks are knowingly bold and shamelessly brash. Yet, while René Storck’s nubby grey wool top or Dušan’s sinuous inky velvet tunic may struggle for attention next to the orgy of print and pattern on display, a new, muted mood is gaining momentum. ‘If you talk to a lot of people who have worked in fashion for more…

Training shoes, sneakers or even kicks if you prefer, have become a key territory in the sustainable fashion turf war. The fashion industry’s environmental impact – it produces more carbon emissions than international flights and shipping combined – is increasingly under scrutiny. And trainers leave a particularly large and unpleasant footprint, as they use a lot of different and ‘problematic’ materials – leather, nylon, synthetic rubber, plastic and viscose – and involve a number of different manufacturing processes – injection moulding, foaming, heating, cutting and sewing. That means a lot of resource-munching making and logistical toing and froing up and down the supply chain. Where they are made also matters. Over three-quarters of the world’s trainers are produced in China, where manufacturing is still – despite some positive moves –…

Model: Lucien Jones at M+P Models Casting director: David Steven Wilton at East Grooming: Roku Roppongi at Saint Luke using MAC and Bumble and Bumble Interiors: Maria Sobrino Photography assistants: Alec Duff, James Parker Fashion assistants: Aylin Bayhan, Yuan Qian, Yann Steiner Interiors assistant: Roberto Sideris Location shots took place at Wildernesse House, Sevenoaks, Kent, which has been restored and converted by Purcell. Thanks to PegasusLife, pegasuslife.co.uk/wildernessehouse, tel: 44.1732 510162. For more information, visit Wallpaper.com…