Wallpaper的April 2019目录

SARAH ILLENBERGER Artist What Berlin-based Illenberger most enjoyed about illustrating the best of this year’s Cologne furniture fair for our Germany special (page 190) was the ‘freedom to play’. Working with photographer Kate Jackling, she began the task with no final vision and collaged ‘objects and elements in a very analogue manner’. Illenberger’s creative output spans illustration, art direction, set design and photography, with clients ranging from COS to Mercedes-Benz. OLIVIERO OLIVIERI Photographer Armed with his large-format camera, Rome-based Olivieri has honed a distinctive observational rhythm. Having previously shot the rationalist town of Mussolinia for us (W*212), his trip to Tresigallo (page 264) felt like a ‘natural sequel’. He says it was like ‘being part of a de Chirico painting, losing the sense of time and yourself in the metaphysical…

A chance encounter between fashion designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and Roland Herlory, CEO of beachwear label Vilebrequin, on the crystal clear shores of St Barts, proved fruitful when Herlory enlisted de Castelbajac to decorate the walls of his beachside home on the island. Now the pair have united again with de Castelbajac launching a capsule collection of swimwear and poolside essentials for the St Tropez-founded brand. De Castelbajac has dipped his toe into French Riviera-inspired fashion before – his Resort 2015 collection was a cheeky take on the spirit of the Sud. But for Vilebrequin, Castelbajac looked instead to ‘sport chic, bright colours and the spirit of the 1970s’. Think swimsuits and shorts with rainbow details and a cacophony of shark tooth-inspired zips, double layer bikinis, and lightweight kimonos and…

Omelettes are supposed to be humble fare, right? It’s the meal your pan makes for you in the time it takes to lay the table. But a few years ago, Norma’s restaurant at the parker New York hotel turned it into the breakfast of bacchanalian bankers when it launched its ‘Zillion dollar’ version with lobster and caviar (actually costing $1,000 until a change in caviar pricing doubled it to $2,000). More accessible at £29.50, and gaining more traction, is the lobster thermidor that British chef Tom Kerridge put on the menu of his eponymous Bar and Grill, which opened at the Corinthia Hotel in London last autumn. It’s putting regional omelette-based dishes under the spotlight as chefs seek to make eggs go the extra mile in appeasing hungry palates. Anyone…

We’ve noticed that motoring accessories – from air fresheners and gear knobs to gloves and glasses – have been getting a bit of an upgrade recently. We’re steering clear of paper pine trees, and instead making sure our automotive embellishments guarantee the smoothest of rides. Gear knob Designer Sophie Dries has worked with Concrete Cat and Garagisme, the magazine that ‘observes, dissects and analyses the car beyond its technical performance’, to bring us ‘Monolith’, the first concrete gear knob. Air freshener Former M&C Saatchi colleagues Carrie Hindmarsh and Barbara Behan are making car fragrance a thing of beauty with the launch of their Charabanc range of five scented pastilles, each encased in a leather and steel shell and inspired by a legendary road trip. Gloves Holland & Holland’s fur-lined gloves…

In the summer of 1998, more than a million football fans descended upon the Avenue des Champs-Elysées to celebrate France’s World Cup victory, trashing six fountains in the process. More than 20 years later, six spectacular new ones are finally springing up in their place, created by French designers Ronan and Erwan Bouroullec. The fountains, encircling the Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées, have a long history of decline and renewal. Civil engineer Jean-Charles Adolphe Alphand installed the six ground-level basins, each with a central fountain, or water jet, between 1858 and 1867. In 1932, the renowned glass designer René Lalique was commissioned to create illuminated glass fountains for the six basins. Stunning, but too fragile to last, these were replaced in 1958 with more durable glass fountains designed by Max Ingrand, but…

Apparatu Barcelona A familial collaboration is at the heart of Barcelona-based ceramics studio Apparatu. CAP, a recent series of sculptures, sees Juan Mañosa draw on years of expertise on the wheel to create voluminous, elongated forms, while Xavier, his son, sculpts abstracted faces into them. Glazed in a range of colours, this artistic collaboration reflects their respective approaches to working with clay – a generational shift that has given Apparatu its unique place in the design world. The company was founded nearly 50 years ago by Juan (his wife, Aurora, joined the company later), under the name Art-Foc, as a ceramics business that produced a range of dishes and objects sold mostly through trade fairs. It changed its name to Apparatu about ten years ago, when Xavier joined the business,…

Since his graduation from London’s Royal College of Art in 2014, the London-based Polish designer Marcin Rusak has become known for his organic creations, inspired partly by his family’s flower business and a childhood spent playing in abandoned glasshouses. For his first collection, Flora, he created a unique material made of dried flowers and petals encased in dark resin, and used it to fashion vases, lamps and furniture. Having perfected the technique, and experimented with materials such as glass and exotic leaves, Rusak is now branching out. Making its debut at Brussels’ Collectible design fair in March, his newly founded brand MRM focuses on experimental metal manufacturing inspired by abstract painting. ‘I wanted to do something simpler, more minimal – to create pieces that would be contemporary and mix with…

LHVH Architekten’s Kömpel Chapel is tucked away in the hills of Morsbach, about 50km east of Cologne. Designed for a private client, the modest sandstone building seats just 20 congregants on long oak pews. Tall and austere, its stone external wall rises up from the hillside, looping around to form the interior space. Full-height narrow windows are set either side of the altar, while the sacred character of the building is signalled only via a metal cross and prominent bell mounted on the façade. The entire building is protected by a curved 6m internal gate, fashioned by a local blacksmith and designed to form a sculptural screen when it is folded back against the stone. lhvh.de…

Klaesi Holdener Swiss-born designer Florian Holdener founded his Berlin menswear brand Klaesi Holdener in 2016, after having worked for H&M in Stockholm. His designs stick to a clear formula: utilitarian, understated and user-friendly. For summer, Holdener looked at a young Jean-Michel Basquiat for inspiration, creating mille-fleurs grosgrain T-shirts, cotton drill judo-style trousers, and collarless shirts cut from soft cotton yet sturdy enough to carry decisive tailoring.  klaesiholdener.com Belize Having worked for the likes of Alexander McQueen, Chloé and Net-a-Porter, and met at Stella McCartney’s design studio, Valeska Duetsch and Fiona Bansal launched their womenswear label, Belize, three years ago. The Berlin- and London-based brand’s current collection looks to French beachside escapes and sun-kissed sojourns, and features toile de Jouy bikinis, linen dresses with bustier-style tops and mélange-knit sweaters, which can…

From Walter Gropius’ Bauhaus to Richard Sapper’s classic ‘Tizio’ lamp for Artemide, German design continues to have a huge influence on the way we live. Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s ‘Barcelona’ chair, originally created for the German pavilion at the 1929 International Exposition in Barcelona, seated the Spanish king and queen at the grand opening of the building. Today, it is one of the most imitated furniture designs. The Leica M3 first appeared in 1954, but its gorgeously robust construction remains the industry standard for luxury photographic kit. Only 254 examples of the Albrecht Graf von Goertz-designed BMW 507 sports car rolled off the Bavarian factory floor, but its muscular silhouette caused a sensation at the Frankfurt International Motor Show in 1955 and continues to stop traffic. Style-defining design can…

Improvisation is central to the work of US artist Sarah Sze – her installation, Triple Point, for the US pavilion at the 2013 Venice Biennale, integrated locally scavenged objects such as rocks, paint cans, cups and even a sleeping bag. Her endive boats are similarly adaptable; for example, the fish sauce and green chillies can be replaced with olive oil and lemon. Says Sze, ‘Mixing them feels like merging different places, memories and moods, and seeing and tasting how each affects the other.’ For Sze’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com…

The New World Welcome to our annual Global Interiors Issue! Here we celebrate six territories where new creative talents have caught our eye – Chile, New Zealand, Norway, South Korea, Spain and the United States – while dedicating a 48-page special to Germany, a design powerhouse that continues to lead the way, a century after the founding of the Bauhaus. We also highlight two artists as they embrace the world of furniture and design. First, Tom Sachs graces our newsstand cover with his ecliptic ‘Shop’ chair, named after the chair that a carpenter makes for their shop. Tom’s impressive attention to detail has translated beautifully to furniture-making, informing every element down to the double-corrugated, double-layered cardboard packaging with fibreglass-reinforced paper tape (page 096). Meanwhile, Seulgi Lee (page 083) has followed…

The recent trend for sleek, shiny, hard surfaces appears to be waning, replaced by the warmth and texture of a unique, handmade finish. Materiality is coming through in the form of tactile surfaces, giving humanistic edges to otherwise inanimate objects. As craft continues to be a marker of quality in all aspects of the design industry, designers are reaching for their tools – in this case, a hammer and chisel – and are hallmarking works with chipped textures to create one-of-a-kind objects. Hammered bronze does the trick in the work of British sculptor Owen Bullett, while for ceramic, in the case of Dutch designer Jonas Lutz, and wood, in the case of Swedish designer Monica Förster and London-based Studio Anansi, the chiselling technique is a perfected way of creating imperfections.…

The S/S19 men’s catwalks were a real stitch-up. As designers took on the role of master craftsmen, spring wardrobe options came complete with trailing threads, patchwork embellishments and needlepoint details. A host of Italian footwear brands wove real magic, bringing stitch-inspired details to slipper silhouettes. Fratelli Rossetti’s woven leather loafers are artfully entwined, while Santoni’s monk-strap shoes have delicate hand-woven details inserted. Meanwhile, Giuseppe Zanotti’s loafers feature glinting metal stitches, threading a fine line between handcrafted tradition and the future. fratellirossetti.com; santonishoes.com; giuseppezanotti.com…

Ask the artist Seulgi Lee for a lampshade and she will give you an Aztec temple. Ask her for a blanket and you will get a Korean proverb. ‘If there isn’t a story, I’m not interested,’ says Lee, who lives with her artist husband, Simon Boudvin, and their ornery white cat in a blue-collar suburb east of Paris, in a home/studio with a fig tree in the courtyard, windows all around, and a ceiling of glass bricks. She comes to the gate dressed in a beige sweater like teddy bear fur, her eyes made up in bright colours behind round, clear plastic glasses. Lee was born in South Korea, the daughter of two painters, but decided to become a sculptor, a choice she describes as slightly rebellious. On leaving school,…

I hope it’s used as a chair,’ says Tom Sachs with a glimmer in his eye. ‘And that people climb on it and scuff it up, and spill red wine on it, and tell the stories of their lives, and pass it to their grandchildren.’ As we examine his first manufactured chair, his childlike delight is infectious. We’re in Sachs’ labyrinthine workshop in lower Manhattan, brimming with the artist’s creations and buzzing with studio associates. The chair is made of a subtle and elegant maple plywood routered with large holes, an innovation called lightening holes that harks back to Second World War British aviation. Sachs explains that removing unnecessary material makes a structure lighter and, counter-intuitively, stronger. ‘It doesn’t need as much strength to hold itself up. You remove structure…

NORWAY SOUTH KOREA SPAIN CHILE USA NEW ZEALAND…

Nicola and Oliver Stattmann’s wood furniture company was set up in Ascheberg in 2011. The manufacturer specialises in designer collaborations, fusing its workshop and craft skills with innovative forms using a combination of traditional and new techniques. Created with the Swiss designer Jörg Boner, its new ‘Curv’ collection consists of a table and chair (the latter available with or without armrests) and emphasises lightness of construction. Boner has paired a U-shaped ash frame with simple, straight lines, with chair and table neatly complementing each other. A subtle curve defines both the plywood seat and the solid table edge. All wood is sustainably sourced and the oval-profile chair legs are milled in bulk to minimise waste.…

Interiors: Olly Mason Model: Daniela Kocianova at Premium Models Casting director: David Steven Wilton at East Hair: Akemi Kishida at Atomo Management using Mr Smith Hair Products Make-up: Alice Ghendrih at ArtList Set assistant: William Ruller Photography assistant: Xavier Pruvot Fashion assistants: Isaac Pérez Solano, Morgane Nyfeler…

‘I explored the notion of connection between people and territory and wanted to emulate a deeper sense of connection by way of the mythical circle,’ says architect Frida Escobedo, who designed this exquisite set of tequila bowls for Mexican tequila brand Maestro Dobel. Forged by stone craftsman Juan Fraga from obsidian sourced from the same ring-of-fire terrain that feeds the tequila’s agave plant, the shape of the bowls also references the jícara, a cup made from the fruit peel of the calabash tree and which is traditionally used to drink tequila. Golden obsidian — a deep black stone with gold nuances — was sourced to complement the cristalino tequila Maestro Dobel Diamante. For Maestro Dobel Humito, a translucent, silvery obsidian reflects the tequila’s smoky attributes, while the smallest vessel is hand-carved…

BB: How do you take your coffee? BA: A French press mid-morning. When did you decide you wanted to work with leather? I grew up in Northampton, the centre of the English shoe trade. I played with leather scraps that my [half-Finnish architect] mother brought back from the market. Later I worked in Australia and New Zealand, doing shoe repair jobs for cobblers. Then I did an apprenticeship with Gay Wilson, who was teaching leatherwork at Canberra University. It’s a very benign material to work with, extraordinarily malleable, a mixture of firm and sensitive. I like it as it is used in so many areas of life, from bookbinding to saddlery, and there are so many techniques. I like to learn about all the techniques and play with them to…

For cigar connoisseurs, luxury Swiss label True Love’s humidor ticks all the right boxes. The design is lined in fragrant mahogany and cedar to ensure its bounty is preserved at the optimum humidity, and its interior features modular separating pins, allowing you to secure your cigars stably, whatever their thickness. And it’s not only the humidor’s inner workings that are opulent. Its exterior is lined with rich vegetal tanned leather, a luxurious take on the term ‘box fresh’. truelove.swiss…

Model: Maikls at Bro Models Casting director: David Steven Wilton at East Grooming: Christopher Sweeney using Boy de Chanel skincare and Leonor Greyl hair products Manicurist: Georgia Hart at Stella Creative Artists using Weleda Interiors: Olly Mason Photography assistants: Federico Gioco, Paola Ristoldo Fashion assistant: Morgane Nyfeler Production assistant: Tess Thompson With special thanks to Sundip Vyas, Mark Stevens and Charlotte Harris Shot on location at an apartment in Mayfair, London, designed by HASA Architects and owned and developed by Sundip Vyas. For more information, visit hasa-architects.com and Wallpaper.com…

Sebastian Netz and Jochen Ruderer are the founders of Aesthek, a new interior design label based in Cologne. Launched in early 2019, the company has created a set of accessories that splice straightforward materials with a geometric, modernist aesthetic. Its first collection includes a coat rack, a mirror and this magazine display stand, and attention to detail borders on the obsessive. The ‘DIN’ mirror is named after the paper formatting standard, and is available in A3, A4 and A5 sizes. Squaring up New Tendency’s ‘Standard’ sofa is the Berlin-based studio’s first venture into upholstered furniture. Under the guidance of creative director Manuel Goller, the arch-modernists have assembled a seating system that plays with this well-worn archetype, reducing it to a simple architectural form. The geometry is crystal clear, with either…

While other young brands may draw their inspiration from street culture or the club scene, Standard Clothing, a new womenswear label based in Berlin, takes its aesthetic lead – and its name – from a more unusual place: Standard Möbel, a German furniture company co-founded by Marcel Breuer in 1927 (and bought by Thonet a few years later). ‘I have always had a fascination with the Bauhaus philosophy,’ says Nam Nguyen, the 25-year-old fashion designer who launched Standard Clothing last year. ‘The idea of multipurpose design still feels relevant, even 100 years after it was first conceived.’ Far from being purely functionalist though, Nguyen’s pieces contain unexpected gestures that distort the familiar – a slinky windbreaker with detachable arms, a smocked shoulder on a bra top that uses sleeves as…

If ever a watch comes with truly significant design history built in, then it is Braun’s AW 10 from 1989. Braun’s designs – from audio equipment to pocket calculators – have been lauded everywhere from MoMA catalogues to Jony Ive interviews, but it is arguably in the wristwatch that Braun’s design language found its most concentrated expression. Dietrich Lubs joined Dieter Rams’ design team at Braun in 1962 and worked on many of its classic watch and clock designs. Lubs’ horological thinking has become the template for what a wristwatch should be – so much so that it’s spawned a legion of imitators. But now, 30 years later, the AW 10 is back, Lubs has returned to Braun and he is keen to explain the launch of a larger-size model.…

Park life MANDARIN ORIENTAL HYDE PARK, LONDON A London landmark, the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park has finally swung open its doors after the biggest top-to-toe revamp in its 115-year history, delayed by a fire last summer. Hong Kong- and London-based interior designer Joyce Wang layered the 181 rooms and suites with her signature modern-luxe aesthetic, taking her cues from the hotel’s parkside location. Art deco-inspired custom furnishings, hand-etched mirrors and gilded silk wall coverings are highlighted with details such as acorn-inspired light fittings, carpets that nod to fallen leaves, bark-effect wall coverings and horsehair light sconces. The bar and two restaurants – Bar Boulud and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal – have had a light refurbishment courtesy of Adam D Tihany, who also designed the new spa. Its Chinese-inspired décor is…

Photography assistants: Will Bunce, James Parker, Ibrahim Azab, Tim Grant Post-production: Recom Farmhouse Lighting: Insight Lighting…

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