Wallpaper的December 2017目录

GILLIAN WEARING Artist Coinciding with her solo show, ‘Family Stories’, at the National Gallery of Denmark, artist Gillian Wearing recently unveiled the permanent sculpture A Real Danish Family, its models selected from a public call that drew 492 applications. Given Wearing’s pioneering role in prompting discussions on family, it’s fitting that her contribution to our recipe series (page 194) is a spin on something her mother made – a chunky soup that she says is ‘perfect for winter’. HUGO MACDONALD Writer Wallpaper* regular Macdonald fetched up in Fez to report on the making of 20 cement tiles by 20 US designers for Exquisite Surfaces’ 20th anniversary collection (page 120). ‘Paula Nataf is incredibly chic,’ says the London-based writer of the family company’s founder. ‘Not many people could slip seamlessly from…

Anticipation was higher than usual – and it always runs to feverish – when the press and other interested parties made their way to California’s Silicon Valley last September for the latest Apple keynote presentation. The most titanic of the valley’s tech titans was due to unveil its most significant update to the iPhone since its launch, ten years previous. In that time the iPhone has upended industries and transformed how we do just about everything. The update was a big deal. But most of the golden ticket holders were as excited about where they were as what they were about to see. This was the first up-close mass sighting of the most talked-about new building in the world, a $5bn, or so it’s said, Foster + Partners-designed loop of…

JEAN NOUVEL, INTERVIEWED AT HIS PARIS ATELIER, ON 18/05/17 I wanted to push Maurice Lacroix’s ‘Pontos’ archetype to its limits, making it clearer and more substantial by employing a single material, stainless steel. I wanted to highlight the object’s characteristic of simplicity, using the plainest numerals possible, the most slender hands, and glass with as little shine and reflectivity as possible. When you achieve this balance of tension, you will succeed in giving an object character. It’s all about the scale of the watch in relation to the size of the individual, and the scale of the watch in relation to the strap, which needs to be relatively abstract to give more presence to the object itself. These are all the parameters you use to integrate an object into a…

Grooming: Massimo Di Stefano Models: Alessandro, Stefano B, Stefano C, Francesco, Enrico, Giovanni, Andrea, Emanuele Photography assistant: Francesca Gardini Fashion assistants: Emmanuel Pierre, Martina Verità Casting: Semina Casting Shot on location at the former Collegio Aeronautico in Forlì, Italy. Special thanks to the ATRIUM Association. For more, see Wallpaper.com…

Fashion’s answer to weathering winter chills with style this season is the sleeveless over-layer. At Max Mara, creative director Ian Griffiths was keen to put a new spin on the house’s signature camel coat. ‘I wanted to find a way to wear two at once, without cooking yourself. This sleeveless style works perfectly over a neat mannish overcoat, or brilliantly by itself,’ he says of the Italian label’s camel hair and silk version. At Pringle of Scotland, womenswear design director Fran Stringer was inspired by féileadh-mór, the wrapping and draping element of Highland dress, creating an asymmetric cashmere ribbed scarf that twists itself around the body. Margaret Howell, meanwhile, was inspired by playground apparel. A dress by the British designer, worn open, takes its form from school pinafores. And Italian…

8 minutes, 45.81 seconds Timing carefully, heat the sugar mix at 135 – 145°C to create butterscotch-like bendy candy 11 minutes, 27.03 seconds At 118 – 120°C, makes for thicker, praline-like threads 4 minutes, 80.61 seconds At 108 – 118°C, turns out a syrupy treat 5 minutes, 39.71 seconds At 123 – 133°C, will give something smoothly sculptural 4 minutes, 31.98 seconds At 125 – 133°C, produces firm but malleable candy 3 minutes, 97.29 seconds At 108 – 118°C, sees us into jelly-like forms 14 minutes, 01.67 seconds At 150 – 155°C, cooks up brilliantly brittle candy 11 minutes, 23.83 seconds At 145 – 155°C, leaves us with lovely lollipops Model: Greg Blackford at Hired Hands Models Manicure: Saffron Goddard at Coffin Inc using Sisleÿa Photography assistant: Daniel Kaspar Fashion…

A world of oenophile wonders and spirit-raising accoutrements Napa Valley’s Clos Pegase Winery celebrates its 30th birthday this year, just as a new biography of its architect, the late American postmodernist Michael Graves, is released. Graves was one of 20th-century architecture’s mavericks, a young modernist – one of the legendary ‘New York Five’, no less – who turned his back on the evolutionary approach of his peers to explore the less po-faced facets of architectural design. This populist approach was galvanised by product design for the likes of Alessi, Target and JCPenney, for whom Graves designed playful bestsellers that made him one of the era’s most commercially accessible designers. Before Target and Alessi, Graves’ work was considered perverse, iconoclastic and provocative, deliberately out of step with prevailing taste. The Clos…

A packed lunch for guests by the British roadside restaurant chain Little Chef, a collection of accessories featuring road signs originally designed by typographers Margaret Calvert and Jock Kinneir, a motorway for a catwalk, and a specially written score by Stephen Brooke, including passages of Wagner’s ‘Pilgrim’s Chorus’ at the finale, belted out by some 120 members of the London Gay Men’s Chorus. This is what an Anya Hindmarch show looks, sounds and tastes like. The designer’s A/W15 outing remains typical of the multi-sensory assault that has propelled Anya Hindmarch from a smart accessory brand, popular with the well-heeled of Chelsea, to the top ticket at London Fashion Week and a global powerhouse with 46 stores and 224 other stockists. Hindmarch set up business aged just 18, after placing an…

Progress report THE PILGRM, LONDON Once populated only by uninspiring lowstar hotels, the Victorian squares next to London’s Paddington Station are finally on the right track thanks to the opening of The Pilgrm, a quirkily named hotel by Jason Catifeoglou (formerly of The Zetter) and Andreas and Steph Thrasyvoulou (My Hotels). Spread over four townhouses previously occupied by the Royal Norfolk Hotel, it has been completely refurbished in collaboration with 93, a Sheffield-based design studio. In the 73 crisp, Spartan-chic rooms, period features have been given loving prominence, while downstairs, The Lounge restaurant brings global dishes and the best of Borough Market to Paddington. The simple luxury ethos means that the moderately priced rooms have superfast Wi-Fi and laptop safes, but no minibars or phones; check-in is done online and…

Lamb tagine Serves 6-8 3 tbs olive oil 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped 2 onions, peeled and chopped 2cm piece of ginger, peeled and chopped 3 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp cinnamon 2 tsp cumin seeds, lightly crushed with a pestle 1 tsp chilli powder 1½kg boned lamb shoulder, in approx 5cm chunks 400ml lamb or chicken stock 400g can tomatoes, roughly chopped 2 tbs tomato purée pinch of saffron threads 1 tbs honey 200g stoned prunes salt and pepper Heat the oven to 160°C. Heat the oil in a large, heavy (lidded) casserole dish or tagine over a medium flame. Add the garlic, onion and ginger, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes until soft and golden. Stir in the coriander, cinnamon, cumin and chilli, and cook…

In the two decades since she won the Turner Prize, Gillian Wearing has placed family at the heart of her work, such as her series of self-portraits in which she dons eerily realistic silicone masks resembling her own relations. So it comes as no surprise that Wearing has selected a hearty family dish for us. ‘My favourite dinner when I was a child was my mother’s vegetable soup,’ she says. The original recipe called for lamb, but having been vegetarian for many years, she finds this meatfree variation ‘fills that nostalgic food gap’. ‘Family Stories’ is showing at the National Gallery of Denmark until 7 January, smk.dk. For Wearing’s recipe, visit Wallpaper.com…

Wallpaper’s hot pick of the latest global goings-on The seafood tower, that apogee of opulent ordering, died a death when humble and hearty became the gastronomic mantra of these austere times. It’s steadily clawing its way back now, albeit with a few tweaks to make it more relevant to the contemporary epicurean. The crustaceous highrise of today comprises small dishes of seafood, dressed and ready, with no need of an ocean of ice. At Boston’s Little Donkey, it’s scallops with white soy sauce and salmon roe with wasabi; at Sydney’s Cirrus, it’s strawberry clams with cucumber, and ocean bugs with seaweed mayo ponzu. And mop-up material is modernised, too; at Chicago’s Maple & Ash, it’s conchigliette pasta, while we’ve plumped for cornbread.…

Half an hour outside the city of Fez, in the rafters of a rural Moroccan factory, sits a wizened old man who has been making metal moulds by hand for 50 years. In time, the moulds will have coloured liquid cement poured into them, before being packed with coarser cement, then compressed, popped out and dried. The resulting tiles will be shipped all over Europe, the United States and as far away as Australia. Stateside, they will arrive in the six showrooms of Exquisite Surfaces, a company that has been providing American interiors with stone, wood, cement and ceramic tiles from around the world for 20 years. Like many of the best stories in business and design, Exquisite Surfaces has a family at its heart. The Natafs consist of matriarch…

Almost without anyone noticing, Lisbon has stealthily stolen a march on its European compatriots to become a key travel destination. The city’s attractive mix of Baroque and 19th-century piles is being repurposed by savvy developers and house-proud millennials into imaginative concept stores, buzzy restaurants and, in the case of the grand Verride Palácio Santa Catarina, soigné boutique hotels. Located on a hilltop next to the city’s famous Miradouro de Santa Catarina, with which it shares panoramic views over the Tagus, the handsome four-storey building is a short walk from Lisbon’s hipster Chiado quarter and the Elevador da Bica funicular. Built in 1750 for the Earl of Verride, the townhouse changed hands several times until, a few years ago, a consortium of private and public sector parties agreed to turn it…

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