Wallpaper的June 2017目录

WILLIAM KLEIN Photographer Klein’s limited-edition cover for this issue includes two previously unseen images from his ‘Fashion with Light Drawings’ series for Vogue, and is based on his two new 9m murals for Photo London. Now almost 90, the legendary photographer is as in demand as ever. On page 068 he reflects on his early career – ‘I wasn’t trained in photography, so it was all improvised’ – and new ventures. A retrospective exhibition at C|O Berlin continues through to 2 July. JONATHAN DE VILLIERS Photographer De Villiers’ eye for proportion meant that the outcome of our transport archives shoot (page 120) was never in doubt. A long-time Wallpaper* contributor, he shot the Citroën Conservatoire’s cavernous halls in Paris, remarking on the ‘crazy eclecticism’ of the haul of historical vehicles.…

On table: ‘Nero Intrecciato VN’ watch case, £595, by Bottega Veneta, bottegaveneta.com; a supremely elegant watch case in calf leather with intrecciato detailing, which can comfortably carry a trio of timepieces. 1966 WW.TC watch, £17,400, by girardperregaux, from william & son, williamandson.com; this timepiece’s rotating ring system, patented in the 1930s and housed in an elegant rose gold midcentury casing, enables the hour to be read easily in any time zone. Pinstripe eye mask, £50, by otis Batterbee, from Liberty, libertylondon.com; seasoned travellers don’t rely on airline handouts when it comes to shielding eyes. this mask comes with business-like stripes and a soothing lavender filling In drawer: ‘The Indomitable’ folding comb, €30, by Buly, buly1803.com; one of a comprehensive range of combs covering much of the archive of a traditional…

When joseph Dirand was young, his father took him to jean puiforcat’s pink art deco home in the Basque country, designed for the French silversmith in the 1920s by Luis estevez. it left a lasting impression. in 2012, Dirand, now an architect, was commissioned to design the puiforcat stand at the Maison & objet fair in paris; a year later, this led to an invitation to collaborate with the brand on a ‘collection for the office of an architect’. Dirand was keen, not only because of his affinity with jean puiforcat, but also because he believed desk accessories were a neglected design opportunity. Dirand set out to imagine how jean puiforcat might design such objects today. the nine items he has created – paper tray, letter opener, mail organiser, bookends,…

T his summer, the work of Rei Kawakubo, founder and creative director of Comme des Garçons, is the subject of an exhibition at the Costume Institute of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Both Kawakubo and the curator in charge, Andrew Bolton, insist the show is not a retrospective – though that would certainly be Kawakubo’s due. The last exhibition at The Met dedicated to a living fashion designer was in 1983, when Diana Vreeland, former editor-in-chief of US Vogue, staged a show exploring the work of Yves Saint Laurent, believed then and now to be one of the 20th century’s greatest. Two years earlier, in 1981, Kawakubo made her debut at Paris Fashion Week, presenting collections that radically reconsidered conventions of dressing, dressmaking and fashion as a whole. They were…

Contemporary jewellery's craft, creativity and killer curves ‘Efficiency, simplicity, history. The safety pin seemed a perfect symbol to turn into an Hermès object. I wanted to give it a new life,’ says Pierre Hardy, artistic director of the house’s haute bijouterie since it launched in 2010. This year, the designer has reimagined the ubiquitous domestic device as precious adornment, establishing it as Hermès’ new fine jewellery symbol. Beguiled by the pin’s shape – ‘the result of an absolute function, minimal technology, without any concern for aesthetic’ – Hardy was also attracted to its conflicted symbolism: ‘Firstly, childhood, motherly love, protection, “safety” pin. Secondly, and to the contrary, the provocative symbol of the punk movement – an anti-decorative tool that became the sign of rejection of society.’ The designer’s somewhat sociopolitical…

When it comes to interiors and their contents, few items have the potential to be as excruciating an eyesore or as exquisite a centrepiece as a rug. It seems much more common, however, to encounter a monster than a masterpiece underfoot. So, when one has the plush pleasure of meeting a really, really good carpet, it can be as exciting and satisfying as encountering great art. A case in point is ‘Woven Forms’, a collaboration between New Yorkbased design gallery R & Company (which specialises in designers from the 20th and 21st centuries) and luxury carpet brand Amini (a Best Reissue winner in the 2017 Wallpaper* Design Awards). Together, they have realised more than 20 limited-edition rugs by ten of today’s most notable artists and designers: Dana Barnes, Wendell Castle,…

W hen Czech entrepreneur David Voverka decided to open his own distillery, Javornická Palírna, in a converted pub in South Bohemia, he wanted the production facility to be as beautiful as the product. For years, Voverka had been a frequent visitor to Scotland and its scenic whisky distilleries. ‘The distilleries of many renowned Scottish brands stand right beside the sea or lonely in the serene landscape. You come in and you feel the atmosphere, the history and craft. These magical moments inspired me to start making quality spirits on my own,’ says Voverka, who also runs a successful delivery service in Prague. In 2011, he and his wife bought a collection of buildings – a former pub and dance hall and a farmhouse – in the village of Javornice, where they…

C ertainly, it’s a stretch to look at Stephenson’s Rocket and see a Shinkansen, or to compare the Wright Flyer to a Dreamliner. So will the autonomous cars of tomorrow have a similarly distant relationship to the cars we use today? Even though a self-driving future seems all but assured, total automation still seems a few years away. Right now, the legislative thicket is growing as fast as it can be hacked back, while the many tentacles of technological standards are interwoven and tangled and have already descended into rancorous accusations of intellectual property theft. And most crucially, the interface between human and machine is still, unsurprisingly, fallible. Will we ever have true self-driving cars? This thorny question is no longer just an auto industry issue, but a tech industry one.…

For stockists, see page 184 Twelve months after the Brexit vote, mandarins in Downing Street and Brussels are tackling the question: ‘What now?’ Mark Titchner – the 2006 Turner Prize nominee behind installations comprising existential koans like Why is there something instead of nothing? – may have the answer. He turned to John Dee, Elizabeth I’s advisor, who used an obsidian mirror to peer, or ‘scry’, through time. ‘We are trying to discern the post-Brexit future with a reflective “scrying bowl” of yeast extract,’ says Titchner. ‘Which is probably higher tech than what the Tories are planning!’ For Titchner’s recipe, see Wallpaper.com…

Newsstand cover Photography: François Dischinger Producer: Michael Reynolds David Alhadeff’s Casa Perfect in the Hollywood Hills, a design showcase with home comforts. For credits and story, see page 144 Putting together the post-Salone issue is always a challenge. A week of high-intensity furniture foraging and fine dining can leave you dazed and carrying a few extra pounds. Between overseeing the Wallpaper* Handmade exhibition, catch-ups with design-industry colleagues and a cascade of showroom visits and events, I find myself working around the clock. But there are always new places to see, ways to wind down and dining rooms to properly investigate. The restaurant Tokuyoshi, for instance, where lighting artist and theatre director Robert Wilson invited me for dinner. Chef Yoji Tokuyoshi’s ‘cucina Italiana contaminata’ – an elegant entwining of Japanese traditions…

After years of creating stylish interiors for restaurants and bars around the US, Home Studios has launched its first furniture and objects collection, wittily named Homework. The Brooklyn-based design studio, whose creative flair has defined the look of cherished local haunts such as Tørst in Brooklyn, Gwen in LA, and Seaworthy at the Ace Hotel in New Orleans, has always custom-designed furniture and lighting for its interiors projects, so launching its own range was a natural next step. The collection, which includes a table, vase, mirror, shelf and sconce, incorporates a variety of noble materials, such as marble, plated silver, leather and rose gold glass. ‘We looked a lot at the paintings of Édouard Vuillard, Pierre Bonnard and Peter Doig, and the photographs of Brassaï and Paul Strand, among others,’…

OUR LIMITED-EDITION COVER BY KLEIN, SEEN OPPOSITE AT HIS PARIS HOME, NODS TO HIS NEW MURALS, BASED ON HIS 1960S ‘FASHION WITH LIGHT DRAWINGS’ FOR VOGUE, AND INCLUDES TWO PREVIOUSLY UNSEEN IMAGES. AVAILABLE TO SUBSCRIBERS, SEE WALLPAPER.COM Where did it all begin? I was born in Harlem, New York, in 1928. I loved art and hung out at the Museum of Modern Art. It showed painting and sculpture, but also photography, graphic design and movies. It was like a second home to me. I wanted to get to Europe, to be a painter. I was in Paris by 1947, studying in the studio of Fernand Léger. He thought young artists should look beyond the gallery – to architecture, the street, new media. I went pretty quickly from figurative painting to…

A t first blush, the decision by the Swiss artist Not Vital to build his latest installation – a concrete chapel set high on a windswept slope – in Bataan was entirely appropriate. Not far from this spot, in April 1942, the victorious Japanese army ordered around 76,000 Filipino and American POW soldiers to begin what eventually became known as the Bataan Death March towards Camp O’Donnell, around 100km away in Tarlac. Barely 54,000 soldiers survived the ordeal. Vital is, however, careful not to characterise the chapel as a memorial to the atrocity. It is not consecrated, nor is it, despite the abstract references inside to The Last Supper – a giant porcelain piece by Vital – cast specifically to the Christian faith. That notion is discounted by an antique wooden…

For summer’s poolside escapades, designers are making the cut with swimsuits featuring cheeky peekaboo panels. For Calvin Klein Swimwear and beachwear specialist Vilebrequin, cut-outs come teardrop-shaped on the décolleté and with slender straps. Italian labels Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi favour skin-baring shapes on the back, while Fendi finishes off with a ruffle for added flamenco flair. vilebrequin.com; calvinklein.com; dolcegabbana.it; fendi.com…

The walls of interior designer Andre Mellone’s West Chelsea studio resemble an impeccably curated Instagram feed come to life. Assembled in a floor-toceiling grid are vintage Richard Avedon fashion ads, Jacques Tati film stills and images of lesser-known buildings by Robert Mallet-Stevens and Le Corbusier. Brazilian-born Mellone, unlike many other designers and architects, is not afraid to declare his influences. ‘It’s very important that everything I am working on is up on the wall,’ he says. ‘I’ll never understand pristine offices with nothing on the walls and not a thing out of place. As you can see, I like to draw from many different worlds, from modernism to art deco, film and fashion.’ The son of Brazilian industrial designer Oswaldo Mellone, who worked with many of the country’s leading architects,…

Remade in Manhattan ANDAZ 5TH AVENUE, NEW YORK A decade after it first opened, the 198-room Andaz 5th Avenue is emerging from a substantial makeover, trading many of its original Tony Chi-designed interiors for new looks by Soho-based studio Krause Sawyer. The reconfigured lobby now includes a living area furnished with sculptural reading room chairs and works by local artists, playing up the fiction of a soigné Manhattan residence. Due to be unveiled towards the end of the year, the guest rooms (including the two-bedroom suite) will feature hand-painted silk wall fabrics, carved walnut furniture and Russian white oak floors. Devotees of the hotel will be pleased that the renovation has left its views intact. The Fifth Avenue stretch and the New York Public Library can be admired from restaurant…

A &Tradition Tel: 45.3920 0233 (Denmark) andtradition.com ABC Italia Tel: 39.0377 4643189 (Italy) abcitalia.net Alpi alpiwood.com Amara Tel: 44.800 587 7645 (UK) amara.com Amini Tel: 39.03 77 464311 (Italy) amini.it Amtico Tel: 44.121 745 0800 (UK) amtico.com Aram Tel: 44.20 7557 7557 (UK) aram.co.uk Armani Casa Tel: 44.20 7079 1930 (UK) armanicasa.com Arte Tel: 44.800 500 3335 (UK) arte-international.com Asplund Tel: 46.8 665 73 60 (Sweden) asplundstore.se Axminster Carpets Tel: 44.1297 32244 (UK) axminster-carpets.co.uk B Beyond Object Tel: 44.20 7237 6448 (UK) beyond-object.com Buster + Punch Tel: 44.20 7407 0888 (UK) busterandpunch.com Byredo byredo.co.uk C Calvin Klein Swimwear calvinklein.com Caran d’Ache carandache.com Casa Lopez Tel: 33.1 45 48 30 97 (France) casalopez.com CC-Tapis Tel: 39.02 890 938 84 (Italy) cc-tapis.com Ceccotti Collezioni Tel: 44.20 7499 7133 (UK) ceccotticollezioni.it Céline Tel:…