DRINKS BEFORE DINNER? In this country, thoughts traditionally turn to martinis or Manhattans. The answer to the question in France, Italy, or Spain, though, is often vermouth—neat, chilled, or over ice.
In the aperitif-wine family, vermouth is lightly fortified wine steeped with an array of botanicals, from roots, bark, and spices to fruits and flowers. The tradition was founded in the late 1700s in Northern Italy and in the South of France out of trust in the medicinal benefits of these natural ingredients—especially wormwood, which came to define the product.
As our cocktail culture emerged in the late 1800s, we embraced vermouth—but only as a minor player. In true American fashion, we rejected nuance in favor of alcoholic power, and until recently tended to just wave the dry vermouth bottle…
