Harper's Bazaar的September 2018目录

FALL BRINGS with it the chance for reinvention, and our September issue—the year’s biggest and best—has taken us far and wide in search of the most transformative fashion of the season. Whether it’s richly brilliant colors and textures that evoke the unforgettable kitsch paintings of mid-century artist Vladimir Tretchikoff (page 364), playfully supersize silhouettes that provide a delightful echo of ’80s excess (page 370), or black and silver graphic maximalism set against the salt flats of southern France (page 334), you’ll find plenty of inspiration here to help you stand out from the crowd. Enjoy the issue.…

SUITS…

STYLIST’S TIP Dare to wear one hue from head to toe.…

STYLIST’S TIP A space-age bag goes with everything.…

PRESENTED BY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE PRESENTED BY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE PRESENTED BY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE PRESENTED BY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Model: Silke Van Daal; hair: Panos Papandrianos for Bumble and Bumble; makeup: Frankie Boyd for Christian Louboutin Beauty; manicure: Gina Edwards for Chanel Le Vernis. PRESENTED BY SAKS FIFTH AVENUE…

New York has been called the concrete jungle, so it stands to reason that Harry Winston’s New York collection—modeled after city landmarks the house’s founder loved the most—evokes an untamed breed of glamour. From the diamond wings inspired by the cast iron eagles that graced the old Grand Central Depot to the emeralds that bring to mind the lush greenery of Central Park, these gems provide the perfect plumage for prowling the city that never sleeps, whether you’re running with the wolves of Park Avenue or roaming among the nocturnal creatures of the Lower East Side.…

RUNWAY READY Keep your cocktail-party looks runway fresh with Armarium, the elite fashion rental and styling platform. In addition to offering the best edit to rent, a range of industry’s most-renowned stylists are enlisted through its “Style Brigade,” lending pointers on how to make each look appear its chicest. Even better, the site has recently launched fashion favorites Marni, Emilia Wickstead, Bottega Veneta, and Roksanda for rent. Try them out at armarium.com. IN THE BUFF Leave it to Le Vian® to make diamonds even more romantic. The jewelry house’s 2019 Diamond of the Year—the natural-color Nude Diamonds™—provides ⅝ carats of skin-shimmering beauty when paired with 14k Strawberry Gold® in this chic Gladiator® ring by Le Vian. Shop now at jared.com/levian. DIGITAL OASIS Chillhouse, a New York and online destination for…

“The back staircase is filled with family photos, and somehow it feels like we’ve lived here forever.” WHEN NEW-ESTABLISHMENT American luxury label Sies Marjan appeared two years ago, seemingly out of thin air, it simultaneously offered the shock of the new through its bright palettes and artful draping and something distinctly Old World in its traditional Italian silk jacquard and crepe de chine fabrics. Financial backer Nancy Marks, 69, put her full trust in creative director Sander Lak, a young Dutchman who previously served on Dries Van Noten’s design team, and he encouraged her to reconsider her own approach to dressing. “I was always a monochrome navy and gray person,” says Marks. “Sander helps me be bolder and unafraid of color: His strong yellows and pinks and greens put a…

MUST-SEE MOVIES Unconventional women are taking over the silver screen this month. The documentary Kusama–Infinity follows Yayoi Kusama from her difficult upbringing in Japan to art-world stardom. It girl Hari Nef makes her feature-film debut alongside Suki Waterhouse in Assassination Nation, a high school witch-hunt parable for the cyber-warfare age. And Chloë Sevigny stars as the notorious Lizzie Borden—opposite Kristen Stewart as her lovelorn maid—in Lizzie. BEAD BETWEEN THE LINES “The Classification and Nomenclature of Clouds,” opening at Lehmann Maupin’s new gallery in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood on September 6, sees artist Liza Lou—who specializes in elaborate sculptures involving millions of glass beads—take her craft to new heights. THE MODIST “Contemporary Muslim Fashions,” the first major exhibition to explore the influence of Islamic culture on designers—from Yves Saint Laurent to Mary…

FRAGRANCE Family legacy: “The scent my mom always wore was Miss Dior. That was my first smell of perfume, so Dior has been in my nostrils since I was a child. And it’s so weird that I have my own fragrance now!” Creative vision: “About eight months ago or so, I went to Paris to visit the laboratory with François [Demachy, Dior’s perfumer-creator]. He had been carrying around the scent for about a year and adding to it. So I got to smell all the different ingredients, and it was just such a cool experience. I had no idea what went into making a perfume. It’s also fascinating how one note will smell one way, and then when you pair it with another it smells completely different.” Signature scent: “I…

“My best advice to my daughter: Keep your focus on what you really care about.”—BRUCE SPRINGSTEEN…

LAST NOVEMBER, The New York Times ran a big feature about “lessons from” Harvey. I was busy when I saw the headline, and I remember thinking, “Another Weinstein story—I’ll read it later.” Then I noticed an aerial picture of Houston and did a double take: This was a report on Hurricane Harvey, the record-breaking storm that drowned one of America’s major cities. I had somehow forgotten all about that other Harvey. Ever since, I have been puzzling over why this happens, why we often seem capable of focusing on only one crisis at a time, even if our true interests are far more expansive. Because I don’t know about you, but I need to be free from harassment and rape—and I need action on climate change to prevent coastal cities…

I was sitting on a minimalist white bench in the middle of a glowing white box pavilion that had been built amid the splendor of the formal gardens surrounding the Musée Rodin in Paris. This was the ethereal setting for the Dior Haute Couture Fall 2018 show, and as I sat there thinking I must be in heaven, a woman leaned into my face and imperiously demanded that I move. She wore canary diamonds the size of small lemons and a champagne-colored cocktail dress, and she looked like she had spent at least four hours in her makeup artist’s chair. “You are in my seat! You need to move more to the left,” she implored. I told her as politely as I could that there was no possible way I…

WE’RE ALWAYS ON the defense when it comes to combating signs of aging, but some of our skin’s biggest adversaries are almost impossible to avoid. Dirt and smog inundate pores with bacteria, and the situation worsens when they’re combined with UV rays. “UV radiation creates free radicals in the skin, which wreak havoc by triggering inflammation that can lead to aging and skin cancer formation,” says Julie Karen, M.D., a dermatologist at CompleteSkinMD in New York. On a lesser scale, you may notice that your complexion is lack-luster and sensitive—a cue that your current regimen may need a boost. As a pioneer in anti-aging, Exuviance has developed technology specifically to protect against these pollutants and clean up existing damage. Once the brand’s founders discovered the anti-aging benefits of glycolic acid,…

AS SULTRY DAYS give way to balmy nights, September evokes a feeling of nostalgia. Summer’s end is fresh in our minds, with memories of autumns past rising to the surface. Here at Bazaar, we’re preparing for the season ahead by turning to the past for guidance. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of Ralph Lauren, our editor at large, Deborah Needleman, enlisted the help of some of Lauren’s old friends—including Gwyneth Paltrow and Diane Keaton—to pay tribute to the famed designer. Then, in a nod to our artistic legacy, we visited the Row, where Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen drew inspiration for their latest collection from sculptor Isamu Noguchi, a longtime Bazaar contributor. Similarly, in anticipation of the Whitney Museum of American Art’s landmark Andy Warhol exhibition, writer Christopher Bollen traces the…

DRESSES…

STYLIST’S TIP An embroidered hooded coat delivers instant street-style cred.…

KEEP • Oversize blazers• Bouclé jackets• Pencil skirts STORE • Wedge boots• Off-the-shoulder tops• Destroyed denim…

VIRGO AUGUST 24–SEPTEMBER 23 Even though you are known to take your commitments seriously, especially in one particular area, you might not have been as conscientious as usual in recent weeks. Keep in mind that those people who rely on you in some way do so for a very good reason. You can’t let them down. LUCKY DAY: The 22nd. By sharing your experiences, you attract new followers. LEO JULY 24–AUGUST 23 Money will be a point of discussion in September, but don’t let it overshadow the need to address an intimate subject with someone close. This conversation will require full transparency, perhaps even baring your souls, so stop hiding and start talking. LUCKY DAY: The 7th. Creative thinking boosts your bank balance. CANCER JUNE 22–JULY 23 Someone looking for…

STYLIST’S TIP Mixed-material accessories lend a bit of graphic punch. STYLIST’S TIP Add a solid blazer for an understated note. STYLIST’S TIP Oversize gold accessories keep things soigné. STYLIST’S TIP A patent boot offers a sharp choice for rainy days. STYLIST’S TIP Black and brown are a surprisingly chic pairing. STYLIST’S TIP Try a romantic full-length dress with brogues.…

FOR THEIR FALL 2018 New York Fashion Week show, the Row designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen transformed their showroom into a veritable sculpture garden with 13 monumental bronze and galvanized steel works by the artist Isamu Noguchi. “A couple of the pieces really stretched to the limit what we could get in the building,” says Dakin Hart, senior curator of the Noguchi Museum. “I think in the end it was only a 14-minute exhibition—which sounds crazy, but the fashion industry was such a source of support and energy for Noguchi, and we wanted to honor that.” The prolific sculptor was a natural reference point for the 32-year-old designers, who previously collaborated with Damien Hirst to cover crocodile backpacks in prescription pills and spots. Their Upper East Side flagship is filled…

“FOR THE PAST 10 years, I was constantly dieting,” says Jessica Alderman, an accountant in Florida. In a quest to slim down, the 36-year-old tried calorie reduction, food-tracking apps, meal replacement shakes, and numerous workout plans. Yet despite her best efforts, she couldn’t seem to lose weight permanently. “With dieting, you’re so hungry and miserable,” she says. “It’s hard to get past the first two weeks. I’d just quit.” That’s why she volunteered for a pilot study at Emory University School of Medicine in Atlanta, where interventional radiologist J. David Prologo, M.D., has pioneered the use of cryovagotomy—the freezing of the vagus nerve, which signals to the brain that the body needs to eat. Among overweight or obese people, he says, this nerve causes the body to overreact to an…

SKIN “There used to be this idea that the most important dream for a woman is to remain young, and it’s not that that’s incorrect—it still exists—but it’s not the only dream.” Cleanse: “In the morning, I wash my face with only hot water and maybe a cloth.” Tone: Lancôme Tonique Confort. “I always use this at night, especially if I’ve been wearing makeup.” Moisturize: Lancôme Rénergie Multi-Glow. “It absorbs really well, feels light on your skin, and I don’t even need a serum when I use it. I also gave it to my brother because men don’t want anything too heavy.” Skin savior: “I always use some sort of sun protection. Usually it’s SPF 15, but I’ll add something stronger during the summer.” MAKEUP “I try to find products…

SHARPER IMAGE Pecheux insisted on squaring off the edges of Rouge Pur Couture The Slim, YSL Beauté’s new lipstick. This gives it the precision of a lip brush, he says. TO THE MAX Lips or eyes? You no longer have to choose, says Pecheux. This fall, toss out old ideas and turn up the dial on both. SMOOTH MOVE The inspiration behind The Slim’s finish: “Leather,” says Pecheux. “It’s matte yet luminous.” MODERN ART Who says lipstick has to be confined to lips? Shake things up with a swipe of red on the lids.…

HARPER’S BAZAAR: What have you done recently that you were really proud of? HE: Broadway. I’m grateful they welcomed me onto the block and gave me a Tony. SHE: I had a pretty good show-jumping season at the Winter Equestrian Festival in Wellington, [Florida], bringing up a few new horses that I was given to ride. Also, it was great going to the Tony Awards with my brothers, Evan and Sam, to watch my dad get honored. That was a really special night. What is the best advice you’ve given each other? HE: Keep your focus on what you really care about. SHE: I usually leave the advice-giving to my dad. He’s good at it. Do you critique each other’s work? HE: Not unless the horse starts singing … SHE: I…

Freida Pinto “In so many parts of the world, the cycle of misogyny continues to undermine the crucial role that women play in building a community, a country, and an economy,” says Pinto, who is involved in a variety of nonprofits that empower girls, including Girl Rising, the Lower Eastside Girls Club, and Plan International USA’s “Because I Am a Girl” campaign. Though the Love Sonia actress remains busy with her day job (in addition to The Jungle Book adaptation, Mowgli, out in October, she is starring in Takashi Doscher’s upcoming apocalyptic thriller, Only), she insists on using her voice for change. “Knowledge is power, and if you give me a platform I will use it.” Halima Aden Aden, who was born in Kakuma, a refugee camp in northwestern Kenya,…

Covers Newsstand Bulgari earrings, price upon request, and bracelet, $99,000. Internal (What’s Next) Givenchy dress. Similar styles available at 212-650-0180. Giuseppe Zanotti boots, $845. 212-650-0455. Tom Ford jacket, $5,650. tomford.com. Internal (Jessica Springsteen) Coach 1941 dress, price upon request. Similar styles available at coach.com. Cartier earrings, $15,700, and watch, price upon request. 800-CARTIER. Martin Katz earrings, $65,000. 310-276-7200. Table of Contents Page 120 Dior bag, price upon request. Page 128 Louis Vuitton earrings, price upon request. Mastheads Page 148 Roberto Cavalli necklace, price upon request. Must-Haves Page 168 Loro Piana jacket, turtleneck, and pants. loropiana.com. Lagos earrings. lagos.com. Tiffany & Co. watch. tiffany.com. Furla clutch. furla.com. Santoni shoes. santonishoes.com. Page 170 Escada jacket and pants. escada.com. Wolford bodysuit. wolford.com. Pandora jewelry earrings. pandora. net. David Yurman necklace and ring. davidyurman.com. DKNY bag. dkny.com. Tod’s…

SHEARLING SEE WHERE TO BUY FOR SHOPPING DETAILS…

STYLIST’S TIP Texture adds dimension to earthy patterns.…

A YEAR AGO, fashion seemed to discover a new sartorial obvious: Fashion sneakers, luxe jogging pants, and cashmere hoodies suddenly became the “wear anywhere” uniform for cool girls everywhere. Athleisure was here to stay, and, baby, we’d better get used to it. I dabbled. I dipped. After all, I love an Alexander McQueen sneaker or a Chloé jogging pant. But gym-wear as a blueprint for everything in my closet? Forever? I couldn’t do it. This season, the athleisure trend is still there for anyone who wants it, and its positive influences abound: more and more technical fabrics used in more and more imaginative ways; chunky-soled flats; and heels no higher than four inches. But thankfully the bar is rising for the coming season. We’re talking A-game. It’s as if fashion’s…

FALL FASHION is a rugged terrain—and you deserve a coat that will place you at the head of the fashion pack. An obvious choice is Clare Waight Keller’s boxy intarsia number for Givenchy. Believe it or not, this plush topper is completely faux. Want something a little more utilitarian chic? This season offers fresh updates on the timeless trench and the all-weather parka that would please the most intrepid urban explorer. Whatever your style, the latest outerwear will outfit you for adventure. 1 THE FAUX FUR A pretend pelt sets a new standard for vegan luxury while keeping you warm in frigid temps. 2 THE TRENCH Freshen up a wardrobe staple by swapping out the matching waist tie for a leather belt. 3 THE PARKA Hyperfunctional details like statement snaps…

Can one truly define French elegance? It is, after all, evanescent—a state of mind, an attitude, a way of being. It involves a delicate balance between the natural and the sophisticated in the pursuit of the timeless. I am not French by birth. In my blood and in my heart, I am Italian, but I live and work in Paris, and am French by culture. And yet to be French in this regard is to learn a code to style that is universal. It requires placing one’s senses and one’s spirit before one’s appearance. My mother once told me that as jewelers we cannot wear ostentatious clothing; we had to opt instead for sobriety. “We must choose simple clothing, my dear,” she counseled. “Otherwise it would be too much with…

The best style advice I’ve ever received is to be yourself. And to be confident, because confidence is everything. My personal style icons are Angelina Jolie in Gia and Milla Jovovich in The Fifth Element. Why? Come on, do you have to ask? My go-to Kooples pieces are a leather jacket and a blazer. I love to just throw on a leather jacket with jean shorts and a T-shirt, or I’ll pair a menswear-inspired blazer with jeans for a casual but chic look. A perfect handbag is both functional and stylish. Of course you want to look cool, but you also want a bag that is going to work with you, not against you. My sister gave me a hand-me-down bag when I was 14. It wasn’t anything fancy, but…

HIP TO BE SQUARE GET YOUR STYLE squared away with Hermès’s new Carré Club. The pop-up—in New York September 7–16—celebrates the house’s classic scarf with a truly immersive experience, inviting guests to observe the carré design process, share stories about their own scarves, and stop in for a drink at the silk-covered Carré Café. SPARKLE MOTION With its geometric gems and stackable designs, Gigi Hadid’s Ibiza-inspired collection with Valérie Messika—her second with the jeweler—strikes the perfect balance between bohemian chic and sensuous. GET HAPPY Alber Elbaz brings his signature whimsy to LeSportsac with a collection of nylon bags featuring playful messages like “Dance with me” and “Sublime kiss,” as well as charming doodles hand-drawn by the designer. PORTRAIT MODE To complete his fall ode to personal style, Michael Kors collaborated with…

1 Drink it up. “Activated charcoal is pure carbon specially processed to make it highly absorbent of particles,” says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson of BeautyStat.com. “It’s odorless and tasteless.” And when added to a beverage, it can set you up for a healthier digestive tract, according to Laurie Brodsky, Dirty Lemon’s in-house naturopath. She says the brand’s activated charcoal helps draw out toxins, pollutants, and heavy metals in the gut before they enter the bloodstream. Dirty Lemon + Charcoal drinks, $45 for a case of six. 2 Treat yourself to a hair detox. Great hair days start with clean roots. Hair can gain up to 4 percent of its own weight between washes, thanks to buildup from oil, pollution, and product residue (especially dry shampoo). Even small amounts can impact…

SKIN “I don’t want to overcrowd myself with too many products. For me, it’s essential to have a good cleanser and moisturizer.” Face wash: True Botanicals Renew Hydrating Cleanser. “One thing that makeup artists have stressed to me is the importance of cleaning my skin day and night.” Lotion: Aesop Mandarin Facial Hydrating Cream. “I love anything from this brand—it’s fantastic.” Skin savior: Glossier Super Pure serum. “I’ve started using this too because when you’re wearing makeup and traveling all the time your skin either dries up or gets really oily. This balances it.” Added boost: Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum. “Vitamin C is so good for your skin.” MAKEUP “When I’m not working I let my skin breathe and don’t wear any makeup, since I wear so much when…

TRUE COLORS Deliciously creamy, this high-pigment lipstick looks good—and does good: Every sale will support Space for Giants, a nonprofit that protects migratory paths for elephants. And the 12-shade line isn’t a one-off; it’s the first permanent lip-color collection the brand has released exclusively for a charity. FALL FLORALS Here’s a refreshing note: You don’t have to switch to moody ouds when the temperatures drop. This season, Clinique’s latest scent plays with peony and plum, Gucci Bloom’s update evokes rose and jasmine, while Tiffany & Co.’s brightens a room with mandarin and iris. LUXE RESTART Post-summer skin needs TLC. Enter AmorePacific Prime Reserve Epidynamic Activating Program ($1,200), an intense three-phase treatment to boost the skin’s barrier and its repair cycle. BAZAAR LOVES ALL ABOUT THE EYES This cult mascara has…

“Ralph Lauren’s vision has defined American style for decades, elevating fashion and culture. For years, I had driven by his eight-mile wooden fence along his ranch in the Rocky Mountains and hoped one day to go inside. In 2011, that dream came true, and the beauty of that day left me speechless.”—OPRAH WINFREY “At the time [of the 1999 Academy Awards], I didn’t have a stylist, so I spent quite a lot of time looking at the latest runway shows to see who I might want to wear. There had been a bubblegum-pink ball-gown skirt that I had seen at Ralph that was shown with a sleeveless pink cashmere turtleneck. I loved the look and reached out to the team to see if I could wear it to the Oscars,…

This fall, the story of Mary Stuart, better known as Mary, Queen of Scots, comes to the big screen—she is played by Saoirse Ronan, and her cousin Elizabeth I, by Margot Robbie. It’s rare that Mary is the star of the show; it’s Elizabeth whose indelible image is stamped across popular culture, with Mary playing second fiddle. Which is, perhaps, due to the strength of Elizabeth’s image-making machine. Visual manipulation didn’t start with Photoshop; thanks to the breadth of its power, Elizabeth’s 45-year reign, from 1558 to 1603, punched way above its weight in political or socioeconomic terms, eulogized as a Golden Age presided over by a Faerie Queene, and immortalized in Edmund Spenser’s poem of the same name. Elizabeth understandably adored this allegorical paean to her majesty, but she…

CORE STRENGTH Chemical processing, heat styling, and even daily brushing all take a toll on your hair, zapping shine, bounce, and strength. It’s a cry for TLC, says Emily Alice, director of education at Ovation. “When the strands’ structure is compromised by environmental and physical damage, you’ll start to see frizz and breakage,” she says. If that sounds familiar, consider integrating Ovation Cell Therapy Hair & Scalp Treatment ($56.95) into your routine. This in-shower remedy is packed with proteins, vitamins, and amino acids that penetrate and bind into the hair shaft, leaving it stronger with each use. Apply the treatment immediately after shampooing—the product absorbs best on a clean scalp—and massage a quarter-size dollop into your hair, from scalp to ends. After five minutes, rinse, and follow up with a…