Getaway的December 2017目录

‘I don’t mind spending Christmas on my own,’ I said. ‘Honestly, I don’t.’ I wasn’t lying. One of the very reasons I was in Boston over Christmas was that I knew no one there and wouldn’t have to buy anyone presents or make dutiful visits or eat a gloomy lunch while scrutinising distant relatives, fearful of discovering that I resembled them in some way. I was looking forward to spending the day alone with a pizza and a carton of eggnog, watching the first two Godfather movies. But then, on 23 December, I made the fatal mistake of dropping by to pay my respects to an old school friend of my mother’s. I had never met Sal before but she was a strange, blue-haired old buzzard who wore a knitted…

Glamping escape to see the Namaqua flowers worth R14 800 What an absolutely wonderful surprise for a Friday! My partner and I are incredibly excited. This is definitely a bucket-list item and we are so happy to have won. – Marene Malan I am so excited to have won this getaway. I am accepting it with warm hands! – Kgomotso Matlhare LG G6 smartphone worth R12 099 When you called me I was standing at an ATM (I hadn’t inserted my card yet). I was stunned when you informed me that I had won this amazing prize. After the call, I was so excited I forgot my PIN code! Thank you for running such great competitions. – Neil Jagger Thank you Getaway! I’ve always loved the LG G-range and have…

WHAT Tentsile Tree Tents WHERE To hire all over SA WHO Gear journalist Matthew Sterne Two of your favourite childhood hangouts, treehouses and tents, have finally met. British architect Alex Shirley-Smith was inspired by the Ewok tree village in Return of the Jedi and created Tentsile, which he dubbed ‘the world’s most innovative portable treehouse’. We took them to the Berg River Resort near Paarl and, after scouting for three well-spaced trees (very important), got down to getting them up. Arranging them into the right position felt like a practical trigonometry test. Our first attempt would’ve disappointed my high school maths teacher, but after shimmying them around a little, lining up the corners, and tightening the ratchet straps, we got the perfect spread. From there, it…

A new music festival This year, instead of gunning it to your holiday destination, take a break at the inaugural Rocking the Karoo near Barrydale (midway between Cape Town and the Garden Route on Route 62). There will be 13 bands playing over three days, including The Black Cat Bones, Akkedis (right), Pebbleman and The Grifters. The venue, the recently revamped Karoo Saloon R62 Rock Roadhouse, is on a 53-hectare farm that borders Sanbona Game Reserve. Apart from great music on an outdoor stage, there’s braai and bar facilities, a swimming pool, hiking trails and the Saloon’s legendary food (bikers have been stopping here for years for the bacon and egg rolls). R100 pp day pass, R500 pp weekend camping (300 sites). 15 – 17 December. webtickets.co.za The Black Cat…

…a two-night stay for two at Tintswalo Safari Lodge Enjoy a luxurious safari adventure in the pristine Manyeleti Game Reserve, which shares unfenced boundaries with the Kruger National Park, Sabi Sand and Timbavati game reserves. The sanctuary provides excellent game-viewing opportunities with an abundance of game (147 mammal species). Tintswalo offers a true bush experience: you’ll see the Big Five, and perhaps even wild dogs and cheetahs, on daily game drives, and can enjoy other activities such as stargazing, birding, photographic safaris and spa pampering. The lodge has just eight suites authentically designed to capture the luxury of a classic safari lodge. Inspired by the adventures of 19th century explorers, each beautifully decorated suite also boasts a deck, wood-burning fireplace and a private plunge pool with magnificent views of the…

Bruce says… We moved to Swellendam in 2004 so that we could start a family and raise our children close to nature. We have two daughters now, and I’m always looking to capture their childhood naturally. We were walking in Marloth Nature Reserve when my eldest hopped across this little stream and lay down on the perfect mossy rocks, with the sun on the other side. I stayed put to fit the whole dreamy scene into the composition. For me, storytelling and waiting for the right moment are crucial. Find the best place to stand that will allow you to tell the story. facebook.com/flyinghorsephoto Equipment Settings Fujifilm X-T10, XF 18-55 f/2.8mm, f/4, ISO 640, 1/100 sec BRUCE’S TIP Point out cool spots to your children, but let…

WHAT WINE? What is the wine equivalent of a ‘foodie travel hack’? To find the answer, you’ll need to back away from the world of single varieties and head for the shelf marked ‘blends’. Sometimes they are subtle, like a little bit of Semillon added to Sauvignon Blanc to dial down the acidity. Sometimes it’s to add a little interest: an eye-dropper of floral-scented Viognier, for example, would add mouthfeel, intrigue and complexity to a bottle of pond water. But most of the time, blends are simply great all-rounders (if Jacques Kallis were a wine, he’d be a blend). At worst, they’re a safe bet. At best, they are the most impressive wines we produce in this country – think Meerlust Rubicon and say no more. So go on, mix…

Day 1: Joburg to Schoemanskloof DISTANCE 300km ALLOW 5 hours From Joburg, drive on the N4 towards Middelburg, stopping for fuel and trout pie at Milly’s restaurant (1) . Kids can feed the fish in the dam. From here it’s an easy hour’s drive on the N4 highway to your first night’s accommodation at Schoemanskloof Falls Retreat. After the Machado Toll Plaza, keep left to drive the Schoemanskloof Pass. Before turning off to your accommodation 10km later, stop for freshly squeezed orange juice from Kumi Restaurant at the Viva Fuel Station (2) . Spend the night at the retreat’s Mountain Pondokkie (3) . DO IT DIFFERENTLY Stay at Kaapsehoop for the entire trip and do the various drives during the day. This town had the best accommodation variety, is close…

Ntsutle Motaung Mafisa, lecturer ‘I love the Joburg Theatre! There’s so much music and poetry. I also like the restaurant and that it’s very central.’ (see details on opposite page) Forez Ndarane , photographer and musician ‘I absolutely love Kitchener’s, especially their music events on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Its wooden floor and carpet make for a whole-body experience ... a space to lose yourself in the music.’ (see details on opposite page) Michelle Gumede, journalist ‘Constitutional Hill has to be one of my favourite venues in Joburg. It has great events and festivals where I get to hear contemporary, Afropolitan music.’ 011-381-3100. (It’s the venue for the Afropunk festival on 30-31 December, webtickets.co.za )…

GO HERE FOR A LAUGH Start off this issue with a giggle. Turn to page 56 and look at entries for the Wildlife Comedy Awards. You won’t regret it. 50 SUMMER BOOSTERS If you’re anything like me, holidays come around and any ideas of what to fill my days with fly out my head. Well, here are 50 great ones. See page 70. NAMIBIAN DREAM The Tok Tokkie trail is not new, but it’s such an incredible, and affordable, experience that we wanted to remind you of the magic that it offers. See page 62. SIMON’S TOWN This is simply one of the most terrific holiday destinations if you’re in, or visiting, the Western Cape. Go on, treat yourself to one of these seaside houses (page 44). LOOK OUT FOR…

Marketing coordinator for Mandela Bay Development Agency Zoleka oversees the Old Tramways Building, a newly renovated events venue. It’s most famous for The Valley Market on the first Saturday of the month, ‘which pulls in a diverse crowd and a lot of feet to an area that was previously quiet’. (The R10 entry fee goes to charity.) ‘South End was once a cosmopolitan community. All races, religions and cultures were united here, but with the Group Areas Act in 1950 it was destroyed. Now it’s rising again. There is also Food Truck Fridays (every second Friday), where all things locally crafted get sold – food, clothing, hair products – plus local bands play. Why do I love PE? For the friendly people, the beaches and that the place bears Nelson…

Bokeh (bow- keh) refers to the quality of the out-of-focus parts in a photograph. It’s a Japanese word that literally translates to ‘blur’ or ‘haziness’. It is achieved by shooting with a wide aperture (f/4 or wider), causing background elements to blur and light to appear as soft circles. The quality of these blurred circles depends on what lens you are using – you can get both good and bad bokeh. Good bokeh Circles of light appear smooth, creamy and soft, adding to the atmosphere of an image. Prime lenses, portrait lenses (such as a 90mm f/2.8) and telephoto lenses produce good bokeh. Bad bokeh Circles of light appear jagged and irregular. This effect is caused by an inferior-quality lens. Practical use Bokeh adds depth and feeling to an image,…

PANGOLIN PHOTO SAFARIS The grand prize for the 2017 Getaway Gallery competition is a photo safari in Botswana for two worth R100 000. The winner and their partner will spend five days aboard the Pangolin Voyager houseboat on the Chobe River (all meals and drinks included), photographing the magical wildlife of the Okavango Delta under the tutelage of top wildlife photographers Grant and Helena Atkinson. pangolinphoto.com THE 2018 GETAWAY GALLERY You can still submit your images! All entries from now on are automatically entered into the 2018 Getaway Gallery Competition. Email your images (about 1MB in size, maximum five per month) with your name and contact details to gallery@getaway.co.za.  Include a title, some information on how and where you took it, and details…

30 INSPECTED 12 SELECTED HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice – so how do we know Number 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph , scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Simon’s Town, she created a longlist of 30 to inspect. The following made the cut. WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? • An affordable large Victorian beauty (pg 46) • Something grand and glorious (pg 46) • A cute and romantic cottage (pg 47) • A hotel stay in town (pg 47) • Five-star luxury for a steal (pg 48)…

1 JOBURG, CAPE TOWN AND PORT ELIZABETH Not all summer days are outside days. Indoor climbing is the perfect antidote to bad-weather blues, and also just an exciting way to keep active. The bouldering sections (this is where you’ll want to hang out) of the gyms are covered in thick foam mats and the walls are speckled with multicoloured holds that cater for all different levels of climbing, including kids’ sections. Bloc11 in Cape Town from R60 pp, 021-510-2454; City Rock in Joburg from R150 pp, 010-007-2732; Valley Cragg in PE from R60 pp, 082-576-4623. 2 OVERBERG / ELGIN Cape Canopy Tour offers full-moon zipline adventures in summer, starting with a 4x4 drive up the mountain to The Rabbit Hole and an amazing perspective on sunset before flying through the…

GETTING THERE I flew from Cape Town to Lima (via São Paulo) on LatAm Airlines. From R16 000 return. latam.com NEED TO KNOW South Africans don’t need a visa for Peru but an up-to-date yellow-fever vaccination certificate is required. It’s probably a good idea to bring some dollars, but you can withdraw both dollars and soles from any ATM in Peru. Once you’re in Peru, most things cost the same as – or slightly less than – they do in South Africa. WHEN TO GO Try to hike between April and November when the Andes are cold but (mostly) dry. Hiking at altitude is no joke so bring some Diamox for altitude sickness (I didn’t use mine but it was nice to know I had it) and…

I had mopane worms in Zim (trying to outdo the foreigners!) and buffalo bolognese on the iMfolozi wilderness walk. – Simone Du Plessis Bom-Schweimer Lobster and prawns, the size of my hand, at The Rock in Zanzibar. And the freshest fish at the beach café in Plettenberg Bay. – Nini Sibiya Traditional Russian meals eaten in cosy kitchens – whether in dachas or Communist apartment blocks – during an icy Siberian winter. The hospitality, generosity and warmth of the hosts made every single meal the best and most memorable ever. – Adele Steenkamp The first time I ate goat was at the Halley Hotel in Xai-Xai, Mozambique. It was so tasty I was convinced it was lamb. Of course, we also had lobster and prawns ... all the good sea…

1 CULT MYSTERY (Bantam Press, R320) It’s been nearly 15 years since Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code hit the shelves and his newest work will certainly please fans. Again, Prof Robert Langdon works his way through famous artworks, poetry, odd codes, symbols and religious texts to find the bad guy. This time the setting is delightful Barcelona and there’s a rush to get a new scientific discovery out to the world amid a murder. The story delves into Artificial Intelligence, taking the reader on a decent adventure combining history and science. It’s easy reading and the pace of the story will make any flight or journey whizz by. Plus, it’s sure to inspire a trip to Spain to see Gaudí’s works. – MELANIE VAN ZYL 2 SCI-FI THRILLER (Penguin…

Farrel Hirsch of The Westcliff, Joburg As a child, my dad would always give me something to eat that I thought I wouldn’t like, such as mussels, oysters or a bleu steak; once I tried it, I was hooked! The best meal I’ve ever had on holiday was in Bangkok. I was roaming the food stalls and I could smell something amazing. I had no idea what it was but ordered it anyway – it was a bowl of tom yum goong, a hot and sour soup with shrimp. I specifically travel to Cape Town when new menus are in place, whether it be at The Test Kitchen, Greenhouse or La Colombe. It’s good to see the new trends and you always leave the establishments in awe. I recently discovered…

Some months ago a group of researchers sauntering down an informal road outside of Maseru stumbled upon the footprint of a two-storey-high dinosaur. It’s rather a big deal. A megatheropodic deal, if you will. See, until recently it was believed the dinosaurs that roamed this region had been comparatively puny. Take the much-lauded Lesothosaurus, for example. It was knee-height and ate flowers. Hardly a picture of Jurassic ferocity. In fact, I reckon my neighbour’s cat could defeat it in a one-on-one. Mittens is vicious. Isn’t it interesting how such monumental discoveries, the kind that change what we know about entire eras, can sometimes sommer just be stumbled upon on a dirt road somewhere? That thought occurred to me as I was staring at the ceiling of an orange-brick house built…

Seasoned butters Two options, same method. CHILLI-CHIVE BUTTER Best with: mielies, fish • 100g unsalted butter, at room temperature • 1 small green chilli, minced (remove seeds) • 1 small lemon, zest and juice • 1T finely sliced chives GARLIC-PARSLEY BUTTER Best with: steak/rib-eye, bread, mushrooms • 170g unsalted butter, at room temperature • 10 garlic cloves, peeled and minced • 4T minced parsley leaves FOR BOTH BUTTERS: Add the butter to a bowl and beat in the flavouring ingredients. Lay on a piece of baking paper and roll up to form a tube shape. Freeze until required. Defrost and slice into discs to use. HOW TO USE 1. Slip into a baguette for homemade garlic bread. 2. Melt on mielies. 3. Top just-off-the-braai fish or steaks. 4. Place on large brown mushrooms headed for the grill.…

I recently took a disappointing trip to the Panorama Route. I had visions of frolicking in waterfalls, eating pancakes and soaking up tranquil vistas. In reality, I was jammed in among hordes of people who arrived in busloads for the public holiday and long weekend. Sure, it was beautiful, but I wanted something less, um, Instagrammed. And I found just that, south of the N4 – during school holidays, nogal. I planned a drive from Joburg to the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail, a winding mountain route through some of the oldest mountains in the world to the Swaziland border. I threw in a couple more mountain passes for good measure and ended up with my own ‘panorama route’. Following the N4, the first sweeping mountain pass I found was Schoemanskloof, a…

‘WIDER , BASIL, WIDER!’ VERA FINALLY DECIDED TO BRANCH OFF ‘TAKE THAT, MOSS!’ ABOUT THE COMPETITION Paul Joynson-Hicks started this competition in 2015 to raise awareness about conservation issues around the world, using funny rather than sad or distressing images. What goes into taking the perfect funny photo is, he says, the anthropomorphising of wildlife. ‘We love to see animals looking or behaving like us, and of course when they make mistakes, fall over or off something! I think people find it connects them somehow with the wildlife... But spreading the fun about is also cathartic. We have had many emails over the years about how people have been made to feel better by looking at our entrants’ images.’ The winners will be announced on 13 December…

THE INSIDER Getaway’s Welcome Lishivha lived in Braamfontein as a student for four years until 2013. Even then it was a colourful and vibrant place to be. I was fresh out of high school and a liberal arts student at Wits University’s Braamfontein Campus East. It was the first time I’d left home to face the world on my own as a young adult. ‘Braam’ was my ’hood for four years and, although I remember those days as socially vibrant, they were also filled with naïveté. So I’m apprehensive about going back there on assignment and reliving the memories of stumbling my way into adulthood, of trying to find my place in the big world. I’m not one to revel in nostalgia and how things once were. But…