Getaway的August 2016目录

STEVE SMITH The yin to the yang of his day job as editor of CAR magazine, Steve rides bicycles. He also writes books (a co-written autobiography of Ryan Sandes is the latest) somewhat better than he writes bios of himself in the third person. Read about his retro pedalling on page 94. NICOLE BIONDI Despite sharing the surname of a famous Italian swimmer, Cape Town-born Nicole can't manage more than two lengths in the Sea Point pool. Something she is good at, however, is drinking red wine and travelling alone. Along with four others, she shares her top solo trips on page 82. GIOVANNI FRESCURA The award-winning Italian wildlife photographer is happiest when he's immersed in nature's silent spaces. He travels the world taking pictures – from the snowy northern…

We have been meaning to write this email for a while, but your insightful magazine has been keeping us busy. As I am writing this, we are actually on our way to the Baviaanskloof from Pretoria (my partner, Lumkile, is driving). We are both avid hikers, and game for anything that makes us grow and be astonished. Getaway has been one of our main sources of information – even for spiritual stuff like kundalini yoga, which we've been practising for a few years. We always have our year plan for adventure, and your team assists in enriching it. Four weeks ago, we completed the 9 Summits Challenge (climbing the nine highest peaks in each of South Africa's provinces – a proud achievement) and we've booked for the Leopard Trail in…

KONGOS 3 August at Durban Botanic Gardens SA-born American band Kongos will titillate the tibouchina and flutter the figs in Africa’s oldest botanical garden. DO IT Tickets R350 pp, computicket.com CAPE FLORAL KINGDOM EXPO 18 - 21 August, Agri Mega Park, Bredasdorp Expect an 8000m² undercover expo of fynbos displays, talks, food, tea parties and more. DO IT R100 (adults), R70 (pensioners), R50 (teens), R30 (age 3 – 12). capefloralkingdom.co.za INDIGENOUS PLANT FAIR 19 - 21 August, Durban Exhibition Centre With over 500 different plants on sale, priced from R15 each, there’s no excuse for having a dull garden. Experts will be on hand to answer questions. DO IT Entry is free. Card facilities are available.indigenousplantfair.org.za MERRELL SPRING RUN 27 August, Walter Sisulu Botanical Garden, Joburg Choose from four trails…

FOUR MAJOR CITIES THAT USE THEM Bangkok, Thailand – from R12 for a short (about 5km) trip, but it depends on the time of day, traffic and even the driver's mood. Delhi, India – from R6 for the first 2km, then R2 thereafter. Colombo, Sri Lanka – from R5 for a short ride (about 5km). Melville, South Africa – from R20 for a short trip (about 4km). e-tuktuk.co.za This October, a fleet of tuk-tuks is expected to arrive in Cape Town, under licence of Transport for Cape Town. The three-wheelers are intended for those who want to nip around popular parts of the city (trips of three kilometres or less) and will initially operate in Bo-Kaap, Tamboerskloof, De Waterkant, Green Point, Sea Point, Fresnaye, Bantry Bay, District Six, Zonnebloem, Walmer…

Umbrellas are pretty good at keeping out rain but sneaky winds can often turn them inside out. The aerodynamic design of the Senz umbrella works with the wind instead of against it, almost like an aeroplane wing adjusting its position to deflect airflow. Unlike traditional dome umbrellas, the Senz is asymmetrical, which not only contributes to its functionality, but the short frontside allows you to see where you are going while the long backside keeps the torso and shoulders dry. During testing, I found that instead of holding the umbrella tightly when the blustering began, I needed to hold it lightly so the umbrella could find the best position in the wind. It's sold in a variety of colours and sizes suitable for hiking or simply stashing in your bag,…

OUR EXPERT SAYS: 'Kenton-on-Sea' is wedged between two rivers and virtually surrounded by water' TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 31 properties in the town – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 15 made her list. Best hospitality RIVER ROOST TripAdvisor No. 2 of 7 B&B/Inn Judy and Simon Oliver are natural hosts – engaged and entertaining, helpful, gracious and nurturing. It's hardly surprising then that many of their guests have become friends whom they visit when travelling abroad. There are three en-suite bedrooms in their house but it's the secluded two-bedroom log cabin at the bottom of the drive, a short stroll from…

The bull elephant walked straight towards us, slowly moving through the canopy forest in Mana Pools National Park. His huge feet trod the earth gently, leaving a trail of dust illuminated by the late-afternoon sun. My guide, Stretch Ferreira, whispered for us to sit on the ground. We’d been walking on the floodplain that afternoon and Stretch – a professional guide of 30 years in Mana – had hoped to find this bull. They’d known each other their whole adult lives. And Stretch wanted us to meet him. Now Earth’s largest land animal stopped just before us, within touching distance, his long tusks within a metre of our faces. I looked up slowly at one of his large eyes and for some reason averted my gaze quickly. My heart pounded…

1 HELEN PIKETBERG, WESTERN CAPE I’m perpetually working on a novel and every few months I take myself off to a farm cottage for 10 days to write and make extremely bad fires. My routine goes like this: start working at 8am, drink tea at 9am, fiddle around with resident dogs at 10am, work until 1pm, eat broccoli, work until 3pm and then walk or run for an hour. In the evenings, I might venture into a nearby village for beer and company. STAY HERE The Old Kapteinskloof Guest House near Piketberg in the Western Cape is a beautiful historic cottage with exposed beams and thatch. R250 pp (the cottage is divided into two and can sleep either two or six). 083-710-9017, kapteinskloof.co.za BOLIVIA In 2015, the novel still wasn’t…

Travelling alone in some parks and reserves is not always easy as a woman. Safety, for all travellers, is a priority and the reality is that there are still places where your safety cannot be guaranteed. Then, of course, there is the issue of maintenance and positive guest experiences. I know for a fact that the following parks used to be worth a stay (my grandparents can testify), but when I visited them, they were simply not up to scratch. 1. MOLOPO NATURE RESERVE The park itself is wonderful. Waterholes were rich with gemsbok, kudu, black wildebeest and birds. Phiri Camp was lovely, with neatly raked, private shaded campsites, but the shower taps had been shut off and there was little firewood for the donkey boiler. No ranger was present…

It was 6.30am and we were sneaking through the scrub single file, Nunu Jobe, Teagan Cunniffe and I. We had in sight a black rhino and her calf, and it was our goal to get as close to her as possible. We circled, stopping each time she and her oxpeckers might spot us. Then Nunu lucked upon a midden. This is where she would most likely head, he said. So we settled down close by to wait, the winter sun on our backs. Life felt wonderful. The mother ambled parallel to the hillside, and then began a slow curve down towards us. Next to the midden was a lone tree with a trunk like a woman tilting a provocative hip. The one-ton rhino was not heading to the midden –…

OLD MAGAZINES, NEW MINDS Today a part of me died. My wife and I recently painted and redecorated our home. I had 13 years' worth of Getaway magazines, which I had used to plan numerous trips locally, into neighbouring countries and abroad. I enjoyed every minute I spent reading them. Unfortunately they were taking up space and starting to collect dust, so it was time for them to find a new home. I made some enquiries and after much thought decided to donate them to a school that catered for children with special needs. So it was with a heavy heart that I loaded my magazines into my vehicle this morning, every issue from my very first 264-page April 2003 issue to my 132-page April 2016 issue (I'm still busy…

YOUR TOP TIP FOR EMBARKING ON A CYCLING ADVENTURE? Always be prepared. Know your route and where you can get food and water. A good water filter and emergency food rations kept us out of trouble. THE BEST MEAL YOU HAD? If we're honest, food was not a highlight on this trip! One of the best meals we did have was in Jordan, where we were invited to stay with a lovely man called Mohammed for the night. There he cooked us the most delicious chicken on his barbeque ... James managed to eat about five portions! A MEMORABLE MOMENT? In Sudan we stopped at a truck town to rest in the shade. When we left, we realised Emily had left her wallet behind and so we turned around to…

TOMTOM GO 6100 From R4 699, tomtom.co.za The TomTom GO 6100 is reinvigorating the navigation game. This device has a large six-inch screen and sophisticated real-time traffic updates every minute. You can also leave your device in the car, but plan your routes and review traffic info from your smartphone, tablet or computer using the My Drive App. This makes it user-friendly and safe, as it requires no typing while driving. The GO 6100 comes with lifetime TomTom Traffic, speed-camera trap locations and world maps so you can take it overseas. FIRST ASCENT ISOTHERM JACKET From R1 299, firstascent.co.za It's like wearing a super lightweight (430g) sleeping bag that doesn't get tangled when you turn over. The insulated padded front and back panels keep your core…

You have a delegation visiting from overseas. Where would you recommend they stay? The Ant Collection is in the Waterberg, where I live. It's central and has excellent accommodation and spectacular views over the area. It's very efficiently run and has great people, and makes a major contribution towards employment. The owner [Tessa Baber] is not just in the business of tourism, but she's very conscious of her contribution to the community and her staff. She also has a great conservation ethic. You took 10 years to co-author a book about a river. Why? The whole project started in 2005. But actually it took us about three years to collect all the material. The Limpopo is 1750 kilometres long, and we felt we could not write a book on it…

• IT’S GEARED FOR FAMILIES Most of Kenton's accommodation options are large houses catering for extended families or family friends. Stock is fairly limited, and in peak season (when there's a 14-day minimum rental), it can be a struggle to find a house. Contact the helpful Nomawethu Ngangqu at the tourism office on 046-648-2411. For hand-picked rentals, backed up by services such as The Butler (taking care of shopping), Maryke Taljaard of Kenton Rentals is your go-to lady.kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za • IT’S WALKABLE ‘You can walk everywhere in Kenton' is something the locals say, and it's true. If you're based in the village, the rivers, beaches and shops (all on the main drag, including the municipal offices, where you buy your fishing permit) are less than a 10-minute stroll away. • THE BEACHES ARE PRISTINE…

HOW TO BUY WEIGHT Determine your carrying requirements and find a pack with the closest specs – lighter packs are better for your back. BLADDER SIZE You should drink about half a litre of water every hour, so on a four-hour hike you should have roughly two litres (more in hotter climates or when climbing is involved). STORAGE This is activity-specific. Check the pack for additional pockets: is there space for food, a camera and a jacket, or is it a minimal race pack? COMFORT Packs with a hip belt, a sternum strap across the chest and ventilated back panels tend to be the most comfortable. Also check for generous strap padding. ABILITY We tested whether the hose is comfortable and works easily. Did it leak? Was it easy to…

Mana’s wildlife is especially impressive, but it’s also vulnerable. The black rhino is gone. And increasingly, the tide of continent-wide elephant killing is moving south from East Africa. Poachers are now decimating the elephants of the Zambezi Valley. The Great Elephant Census (an aerial survey across Africa) showed that elephant numbers in the middle Zambezi Valley (including Mana) have dropped significantly since 2001, from 18 000 to 11 500. ‘In Africa (and Zimbabwe is no exception), state wildlife authorities are unable to provide sufficient policing and protection of wildlife areas,’ explained Richard Maasdorp from The Zambezi Society. ‘The costs of protection are high, but government funds allocated for the purpose are negligible. This gap is exploited by corruption. Rangers on the ground, in general, are highly experienced but poorly paid.’…

HELEN WALNE is a writer and likes to head off on solo trips into rural regions where the only threats to her safety are poorly made fires, stray dogs and her terrible sense of direction. JOONJI MDYOGOLO is head of content at Livity Africa and a columnist for City Press. She travels whenever she can and her favourite trips are when she can immerse herself in the history and future of a city. MELANIE VAN ZYL is our senior travel photojournalist and wants to be the most qualified adventurer possible. She's an Open Water Padi Diver, field guide in training and is not scared of camping, 4x4ing or getting lost. VUYI QUBEKA's favourite memory is dancing the pasada in a local spot in Maputo, Mozambique. She and her friends were…

 I asked North West Parks Board regional manager Johnson Maoka for more information. ‘We are determined to restore the safety and credibility of the reserves to the public’ ‘The protected areas [now] managed by the North West Parks Board are born from the amalgamation of the erstwhile Boputhatswana Parks Board, the Cape and Transvaal Provincial Administrations and Bophuthatswana Tourism Council. One will appreciate that each amalgamating entity brought with it a number of personnel across the ranks, equipment and infrastructure of various stages of use and age – and all these had budgets with the old entities that did not necessarily accompany the functions and activities taken up by the new entity. ‘Budgets had to be drawn up from scratch, and not every request was accommodated by the provincial government…

PROTECTIVE POCKETS From R295 , escapegear.co.za If you prefer to use old-school paper maps for navigation, this Escape Gear cotton canvas Overland Map Holder will keep them neat and clean. There's also one for important documents such as passports and vehicle-registration papers for border crossings. Both holders feature a see-through inner sleeve for quick and easy reference. NEW NAVIGATION R799, tracks4africa.co.za Tracks4Africa Navigator App, now also available on Android, requires no Internet connection but your device needs a built-in GPS. The app includes coverage of remote routes and tracks throughout Africa, so when you are exploring don't leave this one at home. GET A GRIP R419 (regular), takealot.com The lightweight Joby GripTight Auto Vent Clip holds a smartphone vertically or horizontally, enabling you to read…

402 km… That’s the length of the Shire River. It’s the longest in Malawi, the only outlet for the country’s eponymous lake and the lifeblood of its two most important national parks right now: Liwonde and Majete. These two parks are thriving. But it wasn’t always this way – a history fraught with agricultural encroachment, abysmal infrastructure and poaching for food had devastating effects on the country’s wildlife. In Majete, big game such as lion and leopard had totally disappeared and in 2003 a survey counted no more than 200 animals across all species. ‘It was a park only on paper,’ says Majete’s current manager, Craig Hay. Today the picture looks very different. A massive overhaul by African Parks (african-parks.org) has restored the wildlife populations of these two parks to…

‘You get married and it’s all sparkling wine and custard, but life is waiting for you, boy’ Right now my favourite travel memory belongs to someone else. I'm not travelling at the moment, but I wish I was, because the guy across the road is doing building on his house and, as well as dust and noise and men in hard hats, this involves taking down the power lines. I don't have electricity, so I mooch around seething, and sometimes I go into the street and do my seething there. My neighbour is shrewd enough not to be at home during the day, so I've had to make do with seething at the project manager, a burly old Afrikaans guy with snow-white hair. I swear and threaten him, although I…

Escape to Fancourt Hotel worth R15 000 Wow, what an absolute privilege! Thanks to Getaway and Fancourt Hotel for enabling us to spend a luxurious weekend in one of the most beautiful places in South Africa. - Diane de Villiers Luxury stay at Twelve Apostles worth R22 000 I am very excited about winning this prize. I plan to take my wife away on a great spoil. Thank you to Twelve Apostles and Getaway. - Jason Livesey Escape to Karongwe River Lodge worth R10 000 Thank you for an awesome prize Getaway. We are looking forward to this bush break at Karongwe River Lodge and we will definitely enjoy it. - Peter Roux Celestron AstroMaster worth R2 200 My dad was a keen stargazer but unfortunately I didn't inherit his…

The Hermanus Wine & Food Festival 6 – 8 August Hemel en Aarde Village, Overberg, Western Cape Expect wine, craft beer and gourmet food from this gorgeous valley known for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnays. Bonus: it's whale season. DO IT Tickets R50 for general entry, R150 with wine tasting.winevillage.co.za Winelands Chocolate Festival 20 – 21 August Blaauwklippen Wine Estate, Stellenbosch, Western Cape Chocolate demos, chocolate tastings, chocolate playtime, chocolate stalls, chocolate-making classes, hot chocolate, chocolate artists, chocolate patissiers … all that's missing is chocolate wrestling! DO IT From R120 pp (scholars R60). winelandschocolate festival.co.za The Mercury Wine Week 24 – 26 August Greyville Racecourse, Durban, KwaZulu-Natal A staple on the KZN wine calendar, this celebration of the great grape features hundreds of wines at cellar prices, as well as…

DURBAN TO MUMBAI VIA RWANDA RwandAir is planning to start flying from Durban, offering connections via Kigali to Mumbai. The airline expects to take delivery of its first wide-body aircraft in September and details regarding the proposed Durban route are still being ironed out. The Durban-Kigali flight is a response to the high demand for connections to Mumbai from KwaZulu-Natal passengers, especially during high season. rwandair.com NAIROBI TO CAPE TOWN VIA LIVINGSTONE Kenya Airways' new Nairobi to Cape Town route, via Livingstone, enables passengers to experience all three places on one route. The airline has fifth freedom rights on the route, so passengers are allowed to embark and disembark at each stop. From R14 278.kenya-airways.com UNITED STATES TO CUBA (FINALLY) The US transport department has approved six American airlines for…

FOR ENTERTAINMENT… Vaalwater acts as a springboard for most of Botswana, but after 5pm there's not much to do. For mountain biking, Lindani Game & Lodges is great and is affordable. lindani.co.za For horse riding, Horizon Horseback is fairly close to town, so it's accessible and has a very good reputation.ridinginafrica.com FOR EATING... The Seringa Cafe is excellent. It's a really super spot where most of the travel industry turn up. It has good food, and is also licensed. 014-161-0643 There's also Lafleur, a coffee shop that has excellent food. 014-755-3975 FOR SHOPPING... There's a craft shop called The Black Mamba and it's one of the best in South Africa. It's also a bookstore and has a good range of natural history and travel books. 014-161-0643 In the Zeederbergs Centre…

The House Quarters This brand-new development, with seven apartments, is going to be the most stylish apartment block when it opens on 25 November. The views of the Kariega River Mouth and beaches from this location, right in the village, are fantastic. From R1500 per unit (sleeps two). housequarters.co.za White House Located on the most sought-after part of Westbourne Road, directly opposite the rolling breakers that push into the Bushman's River estuary, this old-style holiday bungalow was in the final stages of renovation. Given its location, low-key style and recent upgrade, this is one of my favourite houses in Kenton. R2800 (sleeps 10). kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za Amanzi Right next to White House, this option features the same beautiful views but it's a bigger house with an enormous deck and spacious living area.…

The floodplain of Mana is the most popular for visitors and is easily accessible from the riverside campsites. Bear in mind that certain parts of Mana – and certain campsites – are concessioned to safari companies on an exclusive basis, so always obey the road signs. The Four Pools (‘Mana’ means four in Shona) Three of the four pools on the floodplain tend to hold water for much of the dry season: Long Pool (S15°44.538’ E29°21.828’), Chisasiko Pool (S15°44.088’ E29°20.984’) and Chine Pool (S15°44.524’ E29°22.494’). Long Pool is a regular favourite, because it’s close to Nyamepi campsite, is about six kilometres long and draws large herds of elephants, pods of hippos and many crocodiles. Near Trichilia Camp START HERE S15°44.765’ E29°19.102’ The river frontage of the Zambezi is particularly spectacular…

'These next six hours are going to be the best I have ever spent on a bicycle' Sometimes it takes an outsider to remind you just how good you have it. And let’s be honest, given the battering our South African psyche has taken over the last few years, we do sometimes forget. ’I already know,’ observes Marcel Knecht, cycling next to me, ’that from an emotional point of view, these next six hours are going to be the best I have ever spent on a bicycle.’ And right on cue we ride past five eland that cautiously watch us pass. Marcel’s eyebrows head north. Having flown all the way south from Hinwil in Switzerland, this Swiss national and his red-and-white 1981 steel-framed Chesini bicycle are here to participate in…

'The people are as warm and open as the landscape is wide and vivid' I climb the stairs wide-eyed and eager. I hear the clip-clip of my shoes hitting the steps, sheeny from decades of swirling crowds browsing, feeling, flicking tags, choosing, deciding. The mirrors are tall and shiny. The banister is still strong. I look up. I have a long way to go, all the way to the top of the world. There are milkshakes and anchovy toast up there. The room is big and still. A man looks up; he sits waiting for his breakfast. News Kademi approaches me. He's still here after 32 years of polishing cutlery and gently laying menus in front of guests. He smiles. ‘I'm sorry, we don't serve anchovy toast any more,' he…