Getaway的February 2016目录

Snuck away in the sinew of this issue are two short sentences in one of our stories: ' Before pine plantations were created in the drier areas, these were strongholds of the Eastern Cape lion. The last one was shot nearby just 50 years ago.' It’s a wan statement, so matter-of-fact that, when signing off the article in which it appears, I almost - almost - glossed over it. It felt commonplace because it’s the kind of sentence we often read these days; this is becoming our world, isn’t it? The stunning thing is that it’s often a case of out of sight, out of mind: living without will simply become the new baseline of our reality. One of my best reads ever is Feral, by The Guardian's environmental writer…

1. St Helena is considered one of the remotest inhabited islands on Earth - almost 2 000 kilometres west of Africa and 3 500 kilometres east of South America. 2. The astronomer Edmond Halley spent a year on St Helena to create the first map of the stars over the Southern Hemisphere. 3. There are about 4 200 cars on St Helena (as many as there are people). In 1929, the first car was imported to the island: an Austin 7 that simply had the number ‘1’ as its plate.…

I’M A LOVER! Kiss me quick and buy me another cocktail LIVING ROOM, MABONENG If you’re the tree-hugging type, then you’ll love this plant-filled space in downtown Joburg. The city views contrast with the green interior, plus you can stroll through Maboneng after drinks to take in the energy of the city. DO IT Cocktails from R65. 082-370-9284, livingroomjozi.co.za SAN DECK AT TSOGO SUN, SANDTON Sandton is the richest square mile in Africa, and also the perfect spot for a cocktail as the sun dips behind Jozi’s skyline. The complimentary spiced biltong is unforgettable. The Michelangelo Hotel is a walk away, just in case you need a bed. DO IT Cocktails from R60. 011-780-5000, tsogosunhotels.com CENTRAL ONE BAR, SANDTON There’s a sushi and music session on Fridays and if a…

Trail Guide South Africa is an impressive new app from a small group of local hikers who have set out to create a one-stop resource for hiking and mountain biking in SA. The first version launched in April 2015 and the database is growingly daily. Each trail has an overview and description, is GPS mapped (maps can be saved offline), and there are weather reports, emergency numbers and local tourism information such as restaurants and accommodation. You can find trails closest to you or your next destination and then filter them by length, difficulty or terrain before navigating directly to the starting point and tracking your progress as you go. They aim to have a third of SA’s public trails covered by early 2016 and they’re appealing to the public…

You have friends visiting from Durban, what hotel would you recommend? Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff. There is something about it that doesn’t make you feel like you’re in Johannesburg. It’s like another city altogether: its roses, the atmosphere, the views and the old-town Italy vibe. I celebrated my 30th birthday there and it was amazing. My wish is to celebrate all my birthdays at Four Seasons hotels around the world. I love the decor. I love pretty things, I love flowers and I'm a sucker for creams and whites. It's a romantic destination. I love its penthouses and the views. I remember waking up in my room on the morning of my birthday and I just sat on the bed and marvelled at the Joburg skyline. It’s that form…

• MORE THAN SAFARI? For many, the Lowveld is synonymous with Kruger, but in your haste to push into the park you could be missing out on spectacular scenery, beautiful gardens and an array of great adventure activities in and around Hazyview, from zip-lining and river rafting to mountain biking. • KRUGER DAY TRIPS Not that you have to forego safari. But if you prefer catered accommodation, a certain level of luxury and/or having a choice of good restaurants at night, then staying at a guest house 15 to 30 minutes from one of the Kruger gates is ideal - be sure to be at the gates when they open (5.30am until March; 6am from April). There are also plenty of companies offering seats on elevated open-air vehicles, led by…

BEST BEACHES  Black Rock S27°07.927’ E32°49.736’ Lala Nek S27°13.322’ E32°47.546’ Rocktail Bay S27°10.587’ E32°48.367’ Jolly Rubino view S28°30.255’ E32°24.480’ Zinkwazi Beach S29°16.837’ E31°26.346’ Christmas Bay S29°28.717’ E31°15.718’ Amatigulu Nature Reserve S29°06.650’ E31°36.112’ Kosi Mouth S26°53.692’ E32°52.575’ Umlalazi Nature Reserve (Mtunzini) S28°57.689’ E31°46.037’ ACTIVITIES Go snorkelling at Kosi Mouth. It costs R50 pp to hire equipment for the day, and is free if you have your own. It’s inside the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Entry is R40 per adult, R20 per child and R40 per car.isimangaliso.com Drive through the coastal dune forest, a soaring storybook forest drive that’s thick with birdsong and the sounds of vervet monkeys racing through the canopy. Sand roads. Entry R24 per adult, R13 per child, R21 per car.isimangaliso.com Look for palm-nut vultures in Mtunzini while walking on…

TRACY MELASS Tracy may be an accidental cyclist - having found herself, by sheer chance, whizzing through French villages recently (page 98)- but she wishes she weren’t. It’s her default happy state. When she’s not busy with her day job as a writer and editor, she’s plotting her next travel destination. And there’s usually a bike in there. ALEX BRACZKOWSKI AND RICHARD MCKIBBIN Alex (right) has studied leopards in the Cape and Zululand and Richard has just finished a study in the latter. Both obsess over big cats, both think they can surf; one admits he has leopard patterns on his surfboard. Read their story on page 70. ROBBERT KOENE AND GERDA GENIS A photographic duo for more than 30 years, Robbert and Gerda have been following their dreams all…

The @Frits Dog Hotel and Daycare Centre opened in December 2015 and offers a variety of rooms (platinum, deluxe and dormitory) where pooches can lay their weary heads, watch DogTV, munch on room-service snacks or indulge in a bubble bath or spa treatment. If they fancy themselves Thespians, and envisage a starring role in Canine the Barbarian or Reservoir Dogs, the hotel even offers furry guests acting classes. All the rooms have webcams, so owners can keep an eye on what their hounds are up to, and there is a vet on hand for any health issues. The hotel also offers day care for pooches, as well as a night-care service for when the humans are out on the town or burning the midnight oil. The hotel’s Yanic Klue says…

FOOD Grabbing takeaways while on the road is convenient, but water-heavy. It takes about 2400 litres to produce one hamburger and 136 litres to produce one cup of coffee. GREENER OPTION Make vegetarian sarmies. The meat industry is water-unfriendly - National Geographic estimates that vegans use 2000 litres less than meat eaters daily. A loaf of bread takes 600 litres to make, an apple 35 litres. ENERGY A central air conditioner running for 12 hours a day will slurp up 63000 litres of water every year if the electricity is sourced from a coal-burning power plant. Similarly, one 60-watt incandescent light bulb left burning for 12 hours can use up to 60 litres. GREENER OPTION Just because you’re staying in a hotel doesn’t make it okay to leave the lights…

Larger-than-life Durbanite Neville Trickett (also a well-known quirky dresser and creative) and his wife Sharon’s real love is collecting rare plants. They’ve just opened a new Saint Verde Botanicals, a store solely focused on all things botanical, after a seven-year hiatus. Over 16 years there have been four branches in South Africa and one in London. ‘The Durban store was a happy accident in that we had no intention of opening one again... We needed a total break from the public eye’, says Neville. The 100-metre store, with windows on all sides, stocks succulents and tropical installations, as well as terrariums, echeverias, agave, haworthias, kalanchoes, aeoniums, ferns and more. Find it on Instagram at instagram.com/saintverdebotanicals or at 5 Station Drive, Durban.…

In Russell Hoban’s book Turtle Diary, two strangers hatch a plot to kidnap and free the sea turtles at the London Zoo. In real life in Cape Town, 57 turtles were recently given their freedom by the Two Oceans Aquarium – no kidnapping required. In December, 53 juvenile loggerhead sea turtles, two green turtles and two hawksbill turtles swam into the ocean off Cape Point after having been rehabilitated by the aquarium. The turtles had all been found stranded on beaches in the Cape. One of the hawksbill turtles was named Otto after fisherman Koos Otto, who rescued the little mite at Yzerfontein. She was sunburnt, thin, dehydrated and suffering from hypothermia. However, when she returned to the wild at the end of last year, she was 10 kilograms heavier…

1 KEEP IT (WATER)TIGHT Before you shell out on a pricey hard-shell underwater housing for your DSLR, try a waterproof compact camera. It's affordable and works well below and above the water. If you’re serious about using your DSLR in water, the next step up is a soft-shell housing, such as those made by Outex, which fit a variety of DSLRs and lenses and can be used safely up to five metres. Kits start at R3500. 2 ADD LIGHT Strong diving torches work relatively well for illuminating submerged subjects. If you want really great images from the deep, try an underwater strobe such as the INON Z240 (R13000, diveaction.co.za), which even works with compact cameras. Whatever your light source, ensure that it isn’t coming directly from your camera as this…

FOR EATING... The Neighbourgoods Market in Braamfontein explains so well what we do as a nation: absorb other cultures, test other venues - and it’s beautiful. 082-550-9865, neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za. Dosa Hut in Fordsburg makes really good South Indian food. 011-492-1456. I also love Hudsons The Burger Joint in Parkhurst. 011-268-0713, theburgerjoint.co.za. My Saturday vibe is Coobs. 011-447-0710, coobs.co.za. I’m also a huge fan of Tashas. My friends joke that I should buy one because I’m always there. 011-447-7972, tashascafe.com FOR SHOPPING... The Space in Rosebank because I like to support South African brands and it is a proudly South African store. 011-327-3640, thespace.co.za. I enjoy Market On Main at Arts On Main. I’m there every second Sunday. The market is phenomenal because it’s a space where you can express yourself beautifully.marketonmain.co.za FOR…

Hulala Lakeside Lodge is an old-fashioned low-key country-style four-star lodge overlooking the Da Gama Dam (I like the rooms with fireplaces), a good spa, cosy characterful public spaces (I love the bar with a large boulder protruding into it) and a perfectly dreadful website. The Lodge has been spruced up, and at R1700 for two DBB, it’s one of the best-value DBB options in the area.hulala.co.za Gecko Lodge is a young, fun family-run lodge on a 35-hectare farm (there's also a great backpackers on the same grounds) that is definitely worth looking at. Rooms are spacious and excellent value at R1100 for double B&B, and kids sharing from R395 pp. geckolodge.co.za. Nut Grove Manor is my runner up for best B&B (particularly the new-look Hazel and Almond rooms) and also…

‘Although it’s primed for a hipsterish clientele, the welcome at Door 221 is friendly regardless of whether you’re sporting a beard or sleeves’ JOBURG BAHA TACO When an order comes in at Baha Taco, owner David Smale begins by pressing a fresh corn tortilla. Behind him there’s a pink wood-fired oven for baking house-made nachos (noticeably not smothered with toppings) or slow roasting the 14-hour pork shoulder that’s paired with pineapple-habanero salsa. And centring the kitchen is a fire pit, where David cooks while customers look on from the other side of the counter. Having worked the festival circuit since 2013, he and his wife, Kat, parked their taco truck and opened a modest shop in an up-and-coming part of Norwood, Johannesburg, last November. I was tipped off by a…

24-CAN KAUFMANN 15-LITRE COOLER BAG WITH TABLE R549, kaufmannoutdoor.co.za WEIGHT 1 800g SPECIAL FEATURES Pop-up side table, two storage pockets and comfortable padded handles. ICE TEST 8hrs OUR VERDICT You can tell this cooler will do the job as it’s got the thickest insulation of the lot and it’s innovative with a pop-up side table (roughly the size of this mag) to perch the snacks on. A durable EVA base (like the Bush-baby bag) makes it very stable, plus the handles are easily the comfiest of all featured here. HOW WE PUT THEM TO THE TEST Coolers aren’t complicated. They should be easy to travel with, clean and keep stuff cold. In our ice test, all soft-sided cooler boxes were filled with equal amounts of ice and left…

KRUGER NATIONAL PARK GETTING THERE Take the N4 to Nelspruit then the R40 to White River and Hazyview. From Hazyview, take the R536 to Paul Kruger Gate. Skukuza Main Rest Camp is 12 kilometres from the gate (a 30-minute drive). NEED TO KNOW Kruger is a malaria area so take necessary precautions. Roads are accessible with a sedan. Gate times Shoulder-season times vary. In midsummer (Nov - Feb) the gates open at 5.30am and close at 6.30pm and in midwinter (May - Jul) they open at 6am, closing at 5.30pm. Cost Entrance is R70 per day for South Africans, R140 for SADC residents and R280 for foreign visitors. Kids under 12 pay half. Wild Card holders enter free. STAY HERE  Orpen Rest Camp is a hotspot for cat activity. Bungalows…

ICE, ICE BABY R280, atlasware.co.za We’ve tested the hardy, insulated stainless steel Atlasware Bottle and found it keeps cold beverages icy for several hours - great for use on the beach, in the bush or on a hike. It’s leakproof (I’ve used mine successfully for three years) and bottles are available in various sizes: choose from 500ml (R280), 700ml, 1-litre, and 1,75-litre bottle. THROW SHADE R470, sunhats.co.za The light, unisex Emthunzini Oscar hat has a high UPF 50+ protection factor. Woven from soft fibre, it can be crushed to pack for travel, and it’s available in four natural hues. COLLAPSIBLE CARRIER R149, campandclimb.co.za This 7,5-litre keg can be packed flat in the car then opened and filled for easy hydration at the campsite. It…

‘YOU LOOK FAR LESS STRESSED THIS 'AFTERNOON THAN YOU DID YESTERDAY.’ Ticia's comment didn't surprise me. I'd arrived the day before from a sweltering 30-degree Joburg to mist churning up the only tarred road in mid-monsoon Hogsback. I had under-packed in the winter-clothing department and shivered in my softshell as whispers of snow trickled to my table from the kitchen in the Happy Hogs Restaurant where I'd found sanctuary, a fireplace and strong filter coffee. On my first day, locals told me it had snowed in Hogsback every month of last year except in February and that summer is especially unpredictable. In my four short days here, mist melted through the valley, ice sleeted across the windscreen, the sun built up a sweaty swelter, nights resumed the chill and snow…

R50 That’s how much the best peri-peri chicken in Mozambique’s Ponta Malongane costs and you can find it here at Sunset Shack, a rustic hut with a view over Lake Sugi. It’s equivalent to about 150 meticals, but you won’t need to change your rands here in the southern part of Mozambique, just a few kilometres north of the South African border. However, that’s where the similarity ends. Here, Portuguese is widely spoken, 2M beer dominates the bar scene and prawns, calamari and soft, fresh buttery pao are on every local menu. In next month’s Getaway you’ll find a comprehensive guide to both Ponta Malongane and Ponta do Ouro (about 10 kilometres from Kosi Bay border post), in which we root out affordable accommodation, where to go to beat the…

‘Five days out, a week on the island, five days home. What would we talk about?’ A few years ago I went to St Helena for the first time. They’ve finished building the airport now, so soon you’ll be able to jump across the south Atlantic in a couple of bored hours while flipping through an in-flight magazine, but for the past 500 years the only way to reach the island was by ship - five days on a wide horizon above the bottomless blue. I had a berth booked on the RMS St Helena, the last working mail ship in the world. But it’s more than an adventure spending a week sailing to a small island, it’s a commitment - the rug upon which my best intentions so often…

A trip for two to Madagascar worth R45000 This is the first time we have won anything, and our first holiday abroad. Madagascar, here we come! Let’s get this party started! - Dayalan Naidoo A luxurious weekend in the Cape Winelands We’ve had a tough year and words just cannot aptly express the happiness I’m feeling right now - we are over the moon! - Kim Dyer Handcrafted veldskoene worth R500 Thank you for my #travellingveldskoene. Sure I’m gonna have a ton of adventures in them! - Lisa Noizaic Promount GoPro Starter Pack worth R999 I am very excited about the hamper! - Dirk Scholtz See page 104 for the gear prize this month So need the Getaway 4×4 Guide to Botswana! Right now we stand at 0 to us,…

Belarus-based graphic designer Yana Makarevich loves pandas. But she also loves gorillas, penguins and tortoises. So she set about reinventing the familiar panda logo of the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) with three other endangered animals: the mountain gorilla, Galapagos penguin and the Madagascar tortoise. The 27-year-old wants to draw attention to WWF’s work. ‘It is my charity proposition to WWF as a possible ad campaign. I think everyone should give any help to society and nature, no matter how.’…

Travelling with glass can be a hack, but there’s now an effective way to take tipple on holiday. The Gourmandium Bundu Booze Box features shock-absorbent polyethylene foam inserts (designed to fit black stackable ammo boxes popularly used for camping and overlanding trips) that will protect ten 750ml glass bottles. Get the inserts for R299 to fit your own ammo box or buy the box and inserts for R539. We like the Bundu Booze Box Mixed Case the best though: box, inserts plus a great selection of six South African wines, one craft beer and three luxury spirits. R2 399, gourmandium.com…

OUR EXPERT SAYS: 'In your haste to push on into Kruger, you could miss out on spectacular scenery' HOW IT WORKS: TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 17 years, inspected 39 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 13 made her list. Best self-catering bargain in a garden LYTTLE IRVING Trip Advisor No. 8 of 15 Speciality Lodging, White River Located within a plant nursery on the outer limits of sprawling White River, this conversion of an old stable block into four comfortable self-catering units has been done in such a way as to afford remarkable privacy, but it’s the garden that really makes this a…

Sharing shimmering sunsets, action-packed waterholes and animals galore, Namibia’s top two wildlife destinations, Etosha National Park and the Zambezi Region, are the kinds of places that bush lovers remember for the rest of their lives. Spend six nights between these two wild destinations, stay in three superb Namibia Wildlife Resorts, and have and family holiday you’ll never forget. TO ENTER SMS the keywords ‘Namibia Wildlife Resorts’, followed by your name, surname, email address and region to 32697 or enter online at getaway.co. za/competitions PRIZE INCLUDES: • two nights for a family of four in a river cabin at Popa Falls Resort on the banks of the Kavango River, including breakfast and a boat cruise; • two nights for a family of four at Onkoshi Resort, on…

Colourful peanuts, which can be fried or crushed to make a powder used in soup, are one of the many ingredients you can purchase by the handful (or sackful) at Kimironko Market. Here, walkways are lined with bean-filled hessian sacks and piles of fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, household goods and clothing. On the last Saturday of each month, shops close and the residents of Kigali come together to mend roads, repair fences and sweep the city clean. Known as Umuganda and practised nationwide, it’s a government-enforced day on which the nation participates in community work. Everyone between the ages of 18 and 65 is obliged to get involved - even President Paul Kigame - and the results are evident everywhere: lawns are trimmed, parks are green, there’s a ban on…