Getaway的January 2016目录

When I was young, I never planned. My life felt like it rolled out before me like those endless Serengeti plains, forever another Champagne field stretching out ahead. But as I got older, as one does, and life was loaded with more responsibility, I came to accept the wagging-fingered truth of my grandmother, mother and older sister: planning is everything. Because time is a precious commodity. A few friends I know have opted to take jobs that offer less money in return for owning more of their hours. Recently, when I took two days off, conveniently sandwiching a weekend, I saw their point. Or rather, I felt their point. I floated on my back in a tidal pool, thinking about nothing at all but the pleasure of the ice-cold water…

1. Jaipur has retained the name ’The Pink City’ ever since its buildings were painted the colour in 1876 to welcome Edward, Prince of Wales. 2. More people have a cell phone than a toilet in India. The ‘No toilet no bride’ campaign has been going since 2005 in north India to encourage men to sort out their sanitation. 3. Rahul is a popular boy’s name in India. Its meanings are many, from ‘conqueror of all miseries’ and ‘traveller’ to ‘offspring of lightning’.…

The Morakniv Tactical SRT fixed-blade knife has a thick carbon steel blade covered in an anti-corrosive black coating for better longevity. Use it on a bush hike or for dicing potatoes for the potjie. The spine of the blade has a rough grind to make it compatible with a flint striker (about R120, sold separately) to start a fire when the matches are wet. The comfortable, rubberised ergonomic handle guarantees a more controlled grip, preventing the hand from slipping. The black sheath also features belt loops to keep it at hand on your next adventure. R1 350, campandclimb.co.za…

OUR EXPERT SAYS: 'The common refrain in a valley this popular is "Book now to avoid disappointment" ' HOW IT WORKS: TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 17 years, inspected 42 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 16 made her list. Best small hotel and romantic retreat ANGALA BOUTIQUE HOTEL TripAdvisor No.4 of 58 B&B/Inn It’s quite a surprise coming to the end of the bumpy dirt track that twists up through the vineyards behind Vrede en Lust to find this contemporary glass box with sweeping valley views and stylish furnishings. The modern design - comprising just 11 rooms dotted in terraced grounds - sits…

NEW IN NAMIBIA BON Hotel Swakopmund is so new the paint has just dried. Opened in December, the four-star hotel is just minutes from the city centre. There are 34 luxury rooms, a health and wellness centre, a lower level of shops and eateries and various meeting places for those doing business. RATES From R795 pp sharing B&B. CONTACT +264-(0)64-426-800, bonhotels.com PLUSH IN THE BUSH A new addition to upmarket Waterberg accommodation is Mackouwkuil Game Lodge & Conference Venue. While it’s been hosting private groups for almost two years, it opened to the public late last year. The lodge is set in a game reserve overlooking a dam that is home to a pod of hippos. Accommodation includes 13 guest rooms, 12 luxury rooms, two three-person guesthouses and four luxury…

TICKET TO THE MOON DOUBLE PARACHUTE HAMMOCK R590, thehammockman.co.za  WEIGHT 600g PACKING SIZE 40cm x 15cm LENGTH 320cm STYLE Camping hammock FABRIC High-grade parachute nylon. Breathable, anti-mildew, rot-resistant, quick to dry and machine washable MAXIMUM LOAD 200kg VERDICT It’s lightweight, durable and has a compact carry bag. However, on a hot day the fabric can make you feel sweaty and the lack of webbing on the ends creates a cocoon effect. The single is R490, but for an extra R100 I’d opt for the roomier double option (pictured). TIP When tying up your hammock, remember: if the material feels loose and relaxed, you will too. KAUFMANN HAMMOCK WITH PILLOW R289, kaufmannoutdoor.co.za WEIGHT 1400g PACKING SIZE 80cm x 10cm LENGTH 200cm STYLE Spreader bar FABRIC Cotton and…

MUTUA MATHEKA Travel junkie Mutua is fond of ruining his Landie, trying to take it as near to cliffs as possible. His blood is Kenyan and roots African. He hopes to document every city in Africa with photos before he dies. Until then, you will most likely find him off the beaten path trying to capture the beauty in the mundane. Read about his 4x4 trip to Lake Natron on page 52. NIKKI WERNER The joyousness with which the Italians approach mealtimes, their deep understanding of food as an expression of culture and a feeling that everyone is entitled to eat well are what draw Nikki Werner back to Italy every time. She is still adapting to life without gnocco fritto (see page 86), siestas and aperitivo hour. CHRIS DAVIES…

WINNING LETTER A top-down approach to Kruger Having recently moved into the ranks of the semi-retired, and with time on my hands, I was inspired by an article in Getaway from September 2014 to take a leisurely road trip from the most northern gate in the Kruger National Park and exit at Malelane. At the top of my bucket list was a visit to Crook’s Corner, and we were delighted when we got there, having driven along the Luvuvhu River and experiencing wonderful sightings of nyala along the way. Our first night in the park was spent at Punda Maria and while the camp is getting a little long in the tooth, we were very impressed with the professional and friendly staff at reception and in the camp in general.…

SUMMER MAGOEBASKLOOF BERRY FESTIVAL HAENERTSBURG, LIMPOPO 6 – 7 February It’s all very berry at this time of year in this misty, gentle village en route to Kruger. Pick your own berries, sample berry products, eat berry pie and drink berry wine. There will also be organic cheeses, crafts, books, a festival trail run, a fun run and cute animals. DO IT Entry is free.berryfestival.co.za CLARENS CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL CLARENS, FREE STATE 26 – 27 February Set in the foothills of the Maluti Mountains, this annual celebration of all things hoppy and zingy offers 100 types of small-batch beers, ciders and other brews. There will be food, crafts and music (including Jaryd Smith, Lonestar Estate and The Motherland) as well as brew masters to show you how to make your…

The Sassi (Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative) app from WWF should be on every South African phone. Most of us are familiar with the green, orange and red classification system used to indicate the threat posed to our marine stocks, and the app provides a convenient reference that you can whip out of your pocket at any time. It’s essentially a long list with a sobering number of red (severely threatened) and orange (depleted) icons which make up 75 of the 112 species covered. There’s a write-up on each and, where applicable, info on the different types of fishing methods that pose particular concern. Free on Android, BlackBerry and iOS, or visit wwfsassi.co.za for more on the state of our oceans. Good Fish Guide does much the same as the…

You have friends visiting you from Europe, what hotel would you recommend? Hotel 64 on Gordon is very cool. It's in a great area and it’s close to local amenities. It’s also reasonably priced and I think that’s what you’re looking for when you come to Durban - something a little more laid-back. It’s quite central to Florida Road too and there are a variety of things, from nightclubs to coffee shops to places to go and have a meal, a beer and that. The design... The space is well considered. A key aspect of the hotel is to be able to sit outside and relax and read a book, or even just open the doors out onto a protected area, even if the weather’s horrible. In a place like…

Auberge Daniella would have made the cut had I space for one more full review! There are just three private units (I prefer Lavender Cottage), each with lounge, dining room, kitchen and Egyptian cotton linen. From R1600 for two sharing B&B.aubergedaniella.co.za Plumwood Inn is popular but packed in a bit too densely for my liking. That said, if you bag upstairs Room 4 you'll have the best room: a spectacular view and a fireplace. R1090 for two sharing B&B. plumwoodinn.com Le Fontaine is a good option for bargain hunters, with 14 en-suite rooms in two heritage properties. I prefer the garden suites, in particular Lemon and Orange, and the Stables. From R1300 for two sharing B&B.lafontainefranschhoek.co.za The Cottage on 55 Huguenot is included here again because the deluxe room is…

NEED TO KNOW You will need Kenyan shillings (KSh). R1 is about 8KSh. Always carry lots of water, spare money and insect repellent. Get a guide in Magadi (this means having space for one more in your car) to help negotiate with the Masai, who use your lack of knowledge to introduce fees that don’t exist. A good, honest guide will save you a lot of money and costs around R70 per day. You can find a guide at the Flamingo Simba club/ restaurant (it’s on Google maps). Have at least 60 litres of fuel. Lake Natron is 150 kilometres from Nairobi and in the rainy season some routes are flooded (especially around Lake Magadi), and there are detours. We used about 50 litres of diesel, which cost approximately R550.…

I'd first met Sissy Fortuin the night before at Magic Moments, a dinner-theatre experience that’s held in her home. Sissy is the main act. She sings jazz, African and Afrikaans material. Her partner Barry McGurk, with whom she shares the house, handles the keyboard (Barry plays seven instruments), and Joey Hefke prepares traditional dishes for guests and sings too; sometimes duets with Sissy. The place was welcoming and inclusive. In the garden, I met locals Anne French-Kennerley, who works for St Luigi’s Care Centre for children; a couple from Bongolethu, the nearby township; Monica Williamson who was the press officer at the British Embassy and who had worked with Mandela, plus three English guests. Monica’s shoes were off, so I followed suit, and by the end of the evening we…

If this were a movie it would start with me chasing a 10-year-old boy through the backstreets of Jaipur, trying to take money off him. He hadn’t stolen it from me, it was his money, but I thundered after him in hot pursuit, my big stupid shorts flapping around my knees, sweat flying from my brow like foam from a rabid dog. ‘Come back here!’ I yelled, but he didn’t. We barrelled down crowded alleyways, splashed through streams of suspicious liquids, weaved between guys carrying heaps of cloth and bicycle wheels, women balancing piles of chapattis, old men with sewing machines strapped to their backs, young men on mopeds encased in Tupperware. He had a low centre of gravity and he was on home turf; I was never going to…

‘My hubby and I have just got married and have been looking for somewhere to go on honeymoon! I am still so shocked! I really can’t believe it.’ - Remona Young ‘I am overwhelmed and really excited. Looking forward to this outing!’ - Ofentse Modisakeng ‘I was blown away by what I saw; the films were incredible and it has reawakened the adventurous spirit in me. We really had a great time!’ - Kirsten Bohle ‘I didn’t expect to be a winner! I received the shoes and they are fantastic. I’m sure I’m going to enjoy them.’ - Jacques Groenewald…

1. Old Phalatswe (Old Palapye) Old Phalatswe was the modern town where the Bangwato tribe set up their capital from 1889 to 1902 before moving to Serowe. There you can see the ruins of the old London Missionary Society and foundations for many houses and the grave of Mma Bessie, Khama III’s wife. The turn-off is between Lecheng and Malaka on the Malaka road which turns off the Martin’s Drift road to the border with South Africa. 2. Phothopotho waterfalls While you’re at Old Phalatswe, put on some walking shoes, take a picnic and head up the dry river bed to the Phothophotho waterfalls. You can find the river behind the ruins of the mission house down the hill. It’s a gorgeous walk that ends in a natural amphitheatre. 3.…

1 HEINRICH VAN DEN BERG, FINE ART heinrichvandenberg.com Best advice received: your images need to tell a story I submitted some images to the picture editor of National Geographic and her only comment was ‘We need visual narrative'. She said I had nice single images, but nothing that added up to storytelling. It was hard advice to follow, and I am still in the process of trying to create imagery that tells a story without any text. But it is tough to do. I have not yet been published by National Geographic and probably never will, but at least I got some good advice from them. My advice: trust your own judgement Don’t listen to what other photographers say of your photography. If you spend enough time looking at…

FOR BEER S43 Brewery on Station Drive has a huge selection of beers. Its sister spot, Unity Bar, is the second place I would head to. They both serve S43 brews (plus a huge selection of other beers) and have great food and a really cool vibe. 031-303-2747, thatbrewingco.co.za, 031-201-3470, unitybar.co.za FOR COFFEE… Boiler Room Café is in a warehouse and has great coffee. 031-312-9021, facebook.com/boilerroomdurban The Bean Green Coffee Company in Davenport does an extraordinary cup. 031-201-8122, beangreen.co.za FOR EATING & DRINKING… Antique Café at Churchill House has a great courtyard, superb coffee and good food. 031-303-5959, churchillhouse.co.za Spiga d’Oro on Florida Road has been extended and now has a bar called Sidebar. 031-303-9511, spiga.co.za Dropkick Murphy’s has cool gastro pub stuff. 031-825-1858 dropkickmurphys.co.za FOR MUSIC… The Winston Pub is a…

ROSEMARY If there’s one herb you take, make it fresh rosemary. It travels well and no lamb chop should be without it! 1. EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL Choose a good-quality peppery, grassy extra-virgin that can multitask. Drizzle over mozzarella and tomato or sliced, braaied rib-eye with rocket, whisk into salad dressing or whip into aioli for aperitif-hour crudités. 2. GARLIC Summer is garlic season so buy travel-hardy fresh whole heads. Roast and squeeze out the soft, sweet, mellow cloves, pound them with butter to make homemade garlic bread, pulp to a purée for salad dressing or use raw for seasoning bruschetta. 3. SEA-SALT FLAKES With beach house-assembled food, the texture of sea-salt flakes is everything. Add to garlic cloves when crushing, scatter over seared steak and to season salads. 4. LEMONS…

HERE ARE THEIR 21 ESCAPES TRENDING DESTINATION BOTSWANA This is an example of what an African wildlife destination can look like when the full support of its government and people are behind its biggest asset: the wild. Year after year, the country takes strides towards building a sustainable future based on tourism. It has banned commercial hunting, focused on community-managed concessions and, most important, kept things as natural as possible. Plains game populations are strong, elephants are abundant, rhinos are protected fiercely and predators rule. The country has also topped the list of Lonely Planet’s Best in Travel for 2016. SAVUTI MARSH GETAWAY DEPUTY EDITOR, TYSON JOPSON The best place for wildlife is around the Savuti Marsh in Chobe National Park. It’s a relic of a large inland lake, now…

BRIGHT IDEA R190, campandclimb.co.za The Morakniv Companion Colormix has a blade of Swedish cold-rolled stainless steel and a comfortable, rubberised handle for better non-slip grip. It’s available in lots of bright colours, comes in a matching plastic sheath with a belt clip - and it’s reasonably priced. POWER TOOL R295, builderswarehouse.co.za The Stanley Quickslide Sport Utility Knife is a practical folding knife with a strong, sharp serrated blade made for both heavy-duty and general-purpose cutting. This hardy gadget also comes with a lifetime warranty. CUTTING EDGE R420, awesometools.co.za Known for its classic wooden-handled knives, Opinel’s Outdoor Knife is the heavy-duty alternative featuring a plastic handle and serrated blade. LIVE BY THE SWORD From R3 800, swordcane.com If you’ve already got all the pocket knives and multi-tools…

GETTING THERE It’s a five-hour drive from Cape Town. Take the N1 to Worcester and then the R60 to Ashton. There the road becomes the popular R62 and takes you over Cogmanskloof Pass and through towns such as Montagu, Barrydale, Ladismith and Caltizdorp before coming to Oudtshoorn. NEED TO KNOW You’ll definitely need a car to experience Oudtshoorn. Points of interest are far from the town and some roads are gravel and tricky for smaller vehicles. It's doable but take it easy. I didn’t see many taxis, though there are some, otherwise it's safe to walk at night. DO THIS  Swartberg Pass is 1583 metres above sea level and I enjoyed powering the car up the steep road with stunning views. It's cold at the top, grab a jacket. 044-272-3332,…

12 km That’s the total distance of Van Zyl’s Pass in Kaokoland, Namibia. It took Robbert Koene and his family more than six hours to cross it. The infamous pass covers ferociously challenging terrain and is punctuated by heart-stopping descents. That’s the reality, and beauty, of 4x4ing through arguably the best off-road destination in Southern Africa. Read the full story and see the breathtaking images (some captured from the sky with the use of a drone) of this 15-day trip from Cape Town to the northern reaches of Namibia in the February issue of Getaway magazine. Spoiler: it didn’t go as smoothly as planned.…